Here’s a handy new item, particularly if you load large quantities of bulk ammo for a variety of firearms. Lyman’s new Ammo Checkers check the diameters of reloaded rounds and factory ammo, so you can quickly confirm that your ammo fits a standard chamber. Just drop your loaded rounds in the Ammo Checker, and if the round fits into the gauge, it will fit in the gun’s chamber.
Lyman Ammo Checkers are multi-caliber — each orange block checks six or eight different cartridge types, with each caliber/cartridge name engraved on the gauge. Ammo Checkers are machined to SAAMI minimum chamber dimensions from solid blocks of 6061 T6 aluminum. Ammo Checkers are available in three versions covering most common handgun and rifle calibers:
Handgun Ammo Checker (#7833000) $35.99 at Brownells
Fits: 380 Auto, 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, 38/357, 44 Spl/Mag, and 45 Colt
Why Use a Case Gauge?
We find that case gauges like the Lyman Ammo Checker are particularly useful for handgun reloaders using progressive presses. The chambers of many popular semi-auto pistols are partly unsupported. This allows the case to swell in the bottom quarter. The case may not be sized adequately by your sizing die, which can lead to misfeeds or malfunctions.
Additionally, if you have loaded a large quantity of ammo for a semi-auto rifle such as an AR15, it’s not a bad idea to check your cartridges before you load them into your magazines. All you need is one mis-sized round to cause a stoppage. That will ruin your day if you are competing in a Service Rifle match or 3-Gun event.
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We know our many of our readers enjoy Prairie Dog varminting safaris. For long P-Dog shots you’ll definitely want a centerfire. We like the 20 Practical in an AR and a 22 BR/BRA in a bolt-action. That will have you covered out to 700 yards. But for shorter shots on small critters — say inside 150 yards — it makes sense to have an accurate 17 HMR rimfire rig. Today’s 17 HMRs are capable of surprising accuracy, rivaling a good centerfire rig, but with way less recoil and much lower cost per shot. And the 17 HMR offers more than double the velocity of a .22 LR — up to 2650 fps with a 17-grain bullet.
Top Shot former Champion Dustin Ellerman likes his Volquartsens, and we can see why. With one of his favorite 17 HMR rimfire varmint rigs, he’s seen some outstanding accuracy with CCI ammo. A few seasons back, on his Facebook page, Dustin reported: “Prepping for prairie dogs and I’m floored by this cold, sub-half-inch group shot with the Volquartsen Custom 17 HMR at 100 yards.” This thumbhole-stock rifle features a Bowers Group USS suppressor, and 3-12x56mm Meopta Scope. Dustin tried different types of CCI 17 HMR ammo. This small group was shot with CCI A17 ammo.
What’s the effective range of a 17 HMR on prairie dogs? You might be surprised. in 2015, Dustin took another Volquartsen 17 HMR on a Prairie Dog hunt in Wyoming. He was impressed with the rifle (shown below) and the little rimfire cartridge. Dustin says the effective range of the 17 HMR is farther than one might expect: “I made hits out to 300 yards. 200 yards was easy as long as the wind wasn’t too bad.”
Here’s the Volquartsen 17 HMR Dustin used in Wyoming in 2015:
After that 2015 P-Dog expedition, Dustin became a fan of the 17 HMR cartridge: “Never paid it much attention before now because the ammo is five times more expensive than .22 LR and I mostly target shoot. However, for prairie dogs, the 17 HMR is amazing!” Consider this — Hornady’s 17 HMR ammo pushes a 17gr V-Max bullet at 2550 fps, twice as fast as typical .22 LR rounds.
Prairie Dog Adventure with Savage A17
This video shows a successful Prairie Dog hunt. Watch and you’ll see hits out to 160 yards (00:50), proving the effective range of the 17 HMR cartridge. The host is shooting a Savage A17 semi-auto 17 HMR rifle in a Boyds laminated stock.
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Wouldn’t it be nice to have a print resource that has hundreds of true-size cartridge illustrations, plus technical descriptions of thousands of popular cartridge types? That could be a real time-saver. It’s no wonder this Ammo Encyclopedia book is an Amazon category best-seller.
If you’re a serious shooter, the latest 7th Edition of the Ammo Encyclopedia belongs in your library. This 928-page book by Charles Priore Jr. and Lisa Buening is probably the most comprehensive and up-to-date book in print covering current and classic cartridges and shotshells. The Ammo Encyclopedia is a massive resource work. The 7th Edition, released in October 2022, now boasts 100+ chapters, covering thousands of handgun, rifle, and shotgun cartridges. This 928-page softcover book sells for $44.42 on Amazon.
One of the best features is a full-color section depicting actual size drawings of over 300 current rimfire/centerfire cartridges and shotshells. You won’t find that many “life-size” cartridge drawings in one place even on the internet. Cartridge profiles and ballistic charts have been expanded to include many new factory cartridges. An expanded Trademark Index lists contact information for all current ammunition manufacturers.
For the 7th Edition, over 150 cartridge types have been added. And dozens of previously proprietary cartridges now have individual profiles. An expanded color section shows current centerfire, rimfire, and shotshell cartridges in full color. Plus updated Ballistic Tables provide muzzle velocity, dimensions, and page numbers for the corresponding cartridge profile pages.
Comments from guys who bought the book:
“[The Ammo Encyclopedia is] better than Cartridges of the World. Much better editing and more accurate.” — John Guibert
“The amount and depth of detail provided is beyond impressive. An enormous amount of time and thought went into this latest version of the Ammo Encyclopedia.” — BW Kreisler
“I have many books on firearms and ammunition acculmulated over a few decades. This is by far the best and most comprehensive book on ammunition that I have ever seen. It is a must have reference source for everthing ammunition whether for current or obsolete and the history behind them.” – Eric
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The Shooting Sports USA website includes two excellent articles about the basics of metallic cartridge reloading. These two articles provide an excellent summary of the key procedures. If you are new to reloading, we recommend you read both articles:
Part II is particularly helpful because it explains the entire reloading process step-by-step, with 14 listed steps. The author notes: “In this, the second installment on metallic cartridge reloading, we’ll follow the sequence of steps involved in reloading a rifle cartridge and refining a metallic cartridge load. These steps are based on the use of a single-stage reloading press and a separate priming tool.”
Much important advice is provided as this article runs through the 14 Steps of Reloading. For example, when explaining Step 13, Bullet Seating, the article states:
“Proper seating depth is critical. Too much bullet protrusion and the cartridge may not work through the gun’s magazine, or it may fail to chamber. Too little and the bullet intrudes excessively into the powder chamber, decreasing volume and raising pressure. Neck tension is also important; any bullet that fails to seat with some resistance may be held only loosely by the neck and may be driven back into the case when the round is chambered, especially in semi-automatic arms.”
Important Guide to Detecting Over-Pressure Signs in Brass
As an example of the invaluable advice provided in these two articles, here’s a sample from Part II that explains how to determine if your load is over-pressure. We recommend that EVERY reader read this twice. There are more things to consider than a stiff bolt lift. You need to inspect cartridges very carefully:
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A few seasons back, I wrote an article on cartridge choices for F-Class shooters. CLICK HERE to READ ARTICLE. Since the first article I wrote, F-Class has continued to grow, and push the limits of precision and accuracy. While the .284 Win and its variants are still the most common F-Open cartridges, more and more top F-Open shooters are using magnum cartridge types to win competitions and set new records. In this article, I will list some of the advantages and disadvantages of the most commonly used magnums, and will cover the strengths and weaknesses of each one of them.
Performance factors we will consider for magnum F-Open cartridges include:
1. Equal or better accuracy than standard chambers
2. Better ballistic performance
3. Enhanced case life
4. Barrel life
Accuracy Potential of Magnum Cartridges for F-0pen Competition
John Meyrs has won four National Mid-Range Championships using the .300 WSM. Tim Vought used the same cartridge to win two Mid-Range Nationals and used a 7-6.5 PRC to win the long range Nationals. Standard .437″ case head (.308 Win head size) cartridges still have more Nationals wins overall, but the magnums are quickly catching up, and my prediction is that magnums will dominate soon.
The accuracy and precision potential of magnums used in F-Class (.300 WSM, 7-270 WSM, 7mm RSAUM or “7 SAUM”, 7-6.5 PRC) is better than non-magnum cartridges because their shapes are closer to the ideal “fat/short” body associated with wider nodes and extreme precision. For example a .300 WSM is proportionally much closer to the 6 PPC, 6 Dasher, and 6 BRA than is the .284 Winchester.
Stunning F-Open rifle with SEB Mini front rest with Blake Machine accessories.
The first thing that comes to mind when magnums are discussed is power and speed. In my humble opinion most shooters are missing out on accuracy because they push their magnums right past the most stable and accurate nodes. Recently I met my good friend from the Army Marksmanship Unit, SFC Brandon Green, at a shooting competition. We discussed the latest and greatest in long-range shooting. I knew that the USAMU had switched from 6.5-284 Norma to 7mm RSAUM several years back, but didn’t know what load they are currently using. Brandon told me that the load featured Berger 180gr hybrids in Nosler cases at 2820 fps. We all know that the 7 SAUM is capable of much higher speeds, “but at around 2820 fps the load/rifle combo will hammer the X-Ring anywhere under any conditions” SFC Green said.
F-Open rifles on the firing line at the Ben Avery Shooting Facility in Phoenix, Arizona.
Most shooters jump right into magnum territory velocities when testing, missing out on better precision at standard chamber speeds. For example, my 30 KMR can easily reach 2880 fps with 230gr Hybrids, and it actually shoots pretty good. But the same rifle at around 2770 fps will absolutely hammer the X-Ring in any condition anywhere. When it’s all said and done, F-Class is a long-range shooting competition at a known distance which requires extreme precision and accuracy. It is not a speed race.
IMPORTANT — Case-Head Dimensions Do Make a Difference
Magnums, when shot within reasonable velocities, on average will give better case life due to the bigger case + lower pressure and “more meat” in the case-head area. For example a 7 SAUM case will outlast a .284 Win case when both are loaded to around 2900 fps.
Disadvantages of Magnum F-Open Cartridges
Perhaps the biggest disadvantage linked to magnums is recoil. Some people complain about developing the “gun shy” syndrome after shooting a magnum for a while. Muzzle blast and recoil are significantly more pronounced in magnums, but that can be easily managed with a properly-built rifle equipped with appropriate recoil mitigation hardware such as RAD and the various butt plates.
F-Open rifle equipped with recoil reduction buttpad system.
Barrel Life — “Barrels are Expendable Components”
It is true that certain magnums can torch a barrel in just a few hundred rounds. But the same is true when improving a 6BR to 6 Dasher for example — barrel life might be reduced significantly. More powder = more heat = diminished accuracy after a certain round count. In my experience, a F-Open magnum’s barrel life is very close to high-performance standard cartridges such as the .284 Shehane or .284 KMR. I “retire” my barrels around 1200 rounds regardless of the cartridge being a magnum or not. After that many rounds most barrels will still shoot OK but will copper up, and you will start seeing those unexplained vertical 9s. The bottom line is this, barrels are expendable components very much like brass. You can’t get the performance of .300 WSM and the barrel life of the .308 Win at the same time. If you want to race in NASCAR, fuel mileage should not be the top priority!
Top Magnum Cartridge Types Used in F-Class Open Division
.300 Winchester Short Magnum
The .300 WSM (Winchester Short Magnum) tops the popularity chart in F-Class Open division. It has been used to win numerous National championships and has set many National records. The .300 WSM’s short/fat case shape, with minimal body taper and 35-degree shoulder, contribute greatly to its outstanding performance at long range. Components are readily available as well. Best brass remains to be Norma, although ADG is just as good and some would even say better, but it is more expensive and harder to get at this time.
The .300 WSM has been described as a “super-sized Dasher”.
For the .30-cal magnums, in my opinion, the best bullets by far are made by Berger. If your rifle does not shoot 215gr, 230gr hybrids, or 210gr VLDs well, you likely have a rifle problem, NOT a bullet issue. My “go to” bullet is the Berger 230gr Hybrid. The 215-grainer is a close second, followed by Berger’s accurate but ballistically inferior 210gr VLD, which I use in calm and steady conditions.
Top powders for the .300 WSM are Hodgdon H4831SC and H4350. I know there are many more powders suitable for the .300 WSM cartridge, but none I have used can match Hodgdon’s consistency when shot in different geographical locations and weather conditions.
7mm Remington Short Action Ultra Magnum
The 7mm RSAUM (aka 7 SAUM) used to be the darling of F-Open. Its case capacity and shape are about perfect for launching 180gr pills with great ballistics and precision. Its popularity faded a little, due to the lack of good brass, and the rise of the improved versions of the .284 Win which can almost match the RSAUM performance. Norma still makes 7 RSAUM brass which is pretty good but little on the soft side and hard to find. ADG is arguably producing the best RSAUM brass right now. It is very uniform, reasonably priced, and seems to hold up very well even when pushed hard. The best bullets are again made by Berger, and those are the 180gr hybrid, 184gr hybrid, and 180gr VLD. Best powders are H4831sc, H4350, and Alliant Reloder 16 and Reloder 23.
7-270 WSM, 7-300 WSM, and 7 WSM
The first two are pretty much identical, the only difference being that the 7-270 WSM is necked up .270 WSM while the 7-300 WSM is a .300 WSM necked down to 7mm. I personally prefer the first one since necking-up is easier than necking-down (with fewer doughnut issues).
The WSM case-based 7mms will give you great velocity flexibility as well as superb precision when tuned well. In the 2013 world championship in Raton NM, I was scoring for a gentleman from Canada who was shooting 7-270 WSM. The wind was blowing pretty hard that day. On one of his shots, just before he pulled the trigger the wind gusted. I remember thinking that’s going to be an 8 for sure. The target came up a line 10! I asked him after the match what he was shooting, and he replied 180s at 3100fps. Although capable of such speeds, I think that potentially better and more consistent accuracy can be achieved at much slower speeds. The best powders and bullets are again Hodgdon and Berger respectively. Best cases are made by Norma and ADG, with Winchester being a third option.
7-6.5 PRC — Popular Wildcat
Last but not least on our chart is the 7-6.5 PRC. This particular cartridge is actually a wildcat. It is a 6.5 PRC necked up to 7mm. It is pretty much identical to the 7 RSAUM with the only differences being a shorter neck and .01″-narrower body. Currently the 7-6.5 PRC is the most requested cartridge that I offer when building new rifles. It seems to fill the gap between the .284 Win and the larger magnums very nicely. It is capable of reaching 3000fps but most shooters are getting their best results around 2920-2950 fps. The biggest advantage of this wildcat is brass. Lapua makes super high-quality, readily-available 6.5 PRC brass. Best powders are H4831sc, H4350, Reloder 16, and Vihtavuori VV 555. The best bullet in my opinion is the 180gr Berger. I am yet to hear about a better-performing bullet in this chamber.
Conclusion In conclusion, magnums are not perfect but their performance advantages should be very seriously considered when building a rifle for long-range F-Class. In part three, I will list the most common wildcat magnums, and present the KMR magnums which will make you (if you haven’t already) buy a magnum action and get a magnum build for sure!
– 2014 F-Class Open National Champion
– 2015 F-Class Open National Championship, Silver Medal
– F-Class Open National Championship Teams, 2015, 2014, 2013, Shooting Team Member
– Over 15 wins in Regional and State Championships in Palma, F-TR, F-Open
– 2013 U.S. National Team Member
– 2023 F-Open Gold Medal Team USA Member, 2023 World Championship in South Africa
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Today’s video showcase covers bore-sighting methods and technology. Bore-sighting the old-fashioned way — by looking down the bore of a rifle at a target — is not difficult. With a conventional bolt-action rifle, visual bore-sighting can be done quickly and easily. Rest your gun securely on bags, remove your bolt and set up a 50-yard target with a large bright orange or black center circle. Look through the back of the action and you should be able to sight down the bore with your own eyes just fine. There’s no need for expensive hardware. In fact it may be easier to bore-sight the “old-fashioned way” rather than try to see a laser in bright sunlight at 50 yards (or even 25).
However, with lever guns and semi-auto rifles, including the popular AR15, M1 Garand, and M1A, the design of the receiver may make it virtually impossible to sight down the bore with the naked eye. That’s where a modern laser bore-sighting device comes in handy. For those situations where a bore-sighting tool is needed, we recommend a laser bore-sighter that fits inside your chamber. An in-chamber laser device, as shown below, is handy and has less safety risk than a tool which fits in the end of the barrel.
How to Bore-Sight Your Rifle in Five Minutes
This video from Australia shows the basics of the bore-sighting process. First set up a target 50 yards (or closer) from your shooting station. Make sure the rifle is well-supported and stable. When the target is ideally centered in the BORE of the barrel, then adjust the reticle on your scope to center the crosshairs on the middle of the target. Then, after checking down-range, take a few test shots. Finally, move the target out to 100 yards and confirm your zero, as explained at the close of today’s article.
Vortex Shows How to Bore-Sight Rifles
This well-made, informative video from Vortex covers the basics of bore-sighting. Bore sighting your rifle is a simple way to establish an initial zero to get you on target faster and save you ammo at the range. Thankfully, it doesn’t take a ton of gear or ammunition to bore-sight a rifle effectively. Video host Jimmy from Vortex provides a handy, step-by-step guide in this 10-minute video.
Bore-Sighting Using a Barrel-Mounted Laser Bore-Sighter
If you wondered why a barrel-mounted laser bore-sighter was off-center? Or if you want to learn how to use one properly, this video shows how to safely and properly zero a scope using a barrel-mounted laser bore sight device. Another option is a small cartridge-sized laser that fits inside the chamber. These sell for under $25.00 and are convenient. There are safety advantages to in-chamber lasers.
Initial Bore-Sighting at Home (Before You Head to the Range)
This useful video shows how to bore-sight a rifle at home. This can save time (and money for ammo) when you do get to the range to confirm your scope’s zero. This home procedure works best if the target is well-illuminated while the rifle is in a shadowed area, creating the best contrast. Also make sure the rifle is on a steady support — such as a portable gun vise or sandbags front and rear.
Bore-Sighting with a Red Dot (Reflex) Sight
As with conventional scopes, if you have a red dot sight or reflex optic, you’ll need to bore-sight your rifle, then zero the optic. [Reflex sights use a reflex lens to project a dot or reticle onto the target, whereas red dot sights use a flat, reflective surface to display a red dot reticle.] In this video, retired Navy SEAL Mark Cochiolo demonstrates how to bore-sight then adjust a red dot. Bore sighting allows you to zero your red dot so that your shots hit near your intended point of impact.
Learn More about Bore-Sighting with Tools
To learn more about bore-sighting, you can view a detailed article on the Warne Scope Mounts website. This features through-the-barrel images and discussion of tools that fit in the chamber or barrel to project a laser beam down-range. Shown below are cartridge-sized projecting lasers that fit in a rifle’s chamber. These are available for a wide variety of cartridge/chamber sizes.
WARNING: If you use an in-barrel laser be sure to remove it BEFORE chambering a round. ANY obstruction in the barrel can cause serious injury or even death if you fire a round.
Bore Sight Grid Tool with Arbors
The Bushnell Bore Sight with Arbors is a bore-sighting tool that many gun stores and gunsmiths use. This device uses arbors but does not transmit a laser.
You attach the tool to the end of the barrel and align it with your scope. A grid is visible inside the bore-sighter. Look at that grid and then and align your scope’s reticle with the grid. This Bushnell unit ships with three expandable arbors in 22-270 caliber, 7mm-35 caliber, and 35-45 caliber.
How to Zero a Hunting Rifle Efficiently
Once you have bore-sighted your rifle to get “on target” successfully, then you want to zero your optic so that the shot falls exactly where you want it at your target distance, typically 100 yards. This Vortex video shows you how to quickly and efficiently sight-in and zero a hunting rifle before heading out into the field. This video explains a simple procedure that lets you get a solid zero in just three shots. Of course you probably want to fire a few more rounds to confirm your zero before you head off to your hunting grounds, but this will let you get on-target with a minimum amount of time and ammo expended. This helpful video now has 3.2 million views on YouTube!
Fouling Shots and Cold Bore Condition
If you recently cleaned your rifle, you may want to fire two or three fouling shots before you start this procedure. But keep in mind that you want to duplicate the typical cold bore conditions that you’ll experience during the hunt. If you set your zero after three fouling shots, then make sure the bore is in a similar condition when you actually go out hunting.
This Video Showcase suggested by Boyd Allen.
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Precision Benchrest and F-Class shooters favor premium brass from Lapua, Norma, Peterson, or RWS. (Lake City also makes quality brass in military calibers.) Premium brass delivers better accuracy, more consistent velocities, and longer life. Shooters understand the importance of good brass, but many of us have no idea how cartridge cases are actually made. Here’s how it’s done.
The process starts with a brass disk stamped from strips of metal. Then, through a series of stages, the brass is extruded or drawn into a cylindrical shape. In the extrusion process the brass is squeezed through a die under tremendous pressure. This is repeated two or three times typically. In the more traditional “draw” process, the case is progressively stretched longer, in 3 to 5 stages, using a series of high-pressure rams forcing the brass into a form die. While extrusion may be more common today, RWS, which makes some of the most uniform brass in the world, still uses the draw process: “It starts with cup drawing after the bands have been punched out. RWS cases are drawn in three ‘stages’ and after each draw they are annealed, pickled, rinsed and subjected to further quality improvement measures. This achieves specific hardening of the brass cases and increases their resistance to extraordinary stresses.” FYI, Lapua also uses a traditional draw process to manufacture most of its cartridge brass (although Lapua employs some proprietary steps that are different from RWS’s methods).
After the cases are extruded or drawn to max length, the cases are trimmed and the neck/shoulder are formed. Then the extractor groove (on rimless cases) is formed or machined, and the primer pocket is created in the base. One way to form the primer pocket is to use a hardened steel plug called a “bunter”. In the photos below you see the stages for forming a 20mm cannon case (courtesy OldAmmo.com), along with bunters used for Lake City rifle brass. This illustrates the draw process (as opposed to extrusion). The process of draw-forming rifle brass is that same as for this 20mm shell, just on a smaller scale.
River Valley Ordnance explains: “When a case is being made, it is drawn to its final draw length, with the diameter being slightly smaller than needed. At this point in its life, the head of the draw is slightly rounded, and there are no provisions for a primer. So the final drawn cases are trimmed to length, then run into the head bunter. A punch, ground to the intended contours for the inside of the case, pushes the draw into a cylindrical die and holds it in place while another punch rams into the case from the other end, mashing the bottom flat. That secondary ram holds the headstamp bunter punch.
This video employs DEFORM-2D software to show the draw process for brass casings.
The headstamp bunter punch has a protrusion on the end to make the primer pocket, and has raised lettering around the face to form the headstamp writing. This is, of course, all a mirror image of the finished case head. Small cases, such as 5.56×45, can be headed with a single strike. Larger cases, like 7.62×51 and 50 BMG, need to be struck once to form a dent for the primer pocket, then a second strike to finish the pocket, flatten the head, and imprint the writing. This second strike works the brass to harden it so it will support the pressure of firing.”
Thanks to Guy Hildebrand, of the Cartridge Collectors’ Exchange, OldAmmo.com, for providing this 20mm Draw Set photo. Bunter photo from River Valley Ordnance.
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Now through Sunday, July 30th, 2023, classic military rifles will fill the firing lines at Camp Perry. The National John C. Garand, Springfield, Vintage and Modern Military Match (GSMM) commenced on the 26th, and will run through this upcoming Sunday the 30th, with the one-day Springfield M1A Match on Sunday only. (See CMP Camp Perry 2023 Calendar.) Some participants will shoot just one rifle type, but there is also a combined GSMM 4-Gun Aggregate. This GSSM Agg encompasses a series of position shooting matches on NRA SR targets at the CMP Nationals. As the matches are completed, day by day, results will be posted on the CMP National Matches Results Page.
This video shows the Garand Match at Camp Perry. The rifles are still the same a decade later…
The annual GSMM event is one of the most popular events at Camp Perry, drawing participants from around the nation. One of America’s top GSSM shooters is Brian Williams, who was profiled in our Daily Bulletin. The 4-gun Aggregate includes Garand, 1903 Springfield/1917 Enfield (or similar bolt rifle), M1 Carbine, and AR-type rifle for “Modern Military”. Remarkably, Brian has won the GSMM 4-Gun at the CMP National Matches in Camp Perry three years in a row — the inaugural 2017 4-Gun Agg, plus 2018 and 2019. Below, Brian offers some thoughts on the classic wood-stocked rifles used in GSMM competition.
The Classic Wood Guns of CMP 4-Gun Competition
Perspectives on M1 Garand, M1903A3, M1917, and M1 Carbine
Brian provides perspectives on the “Wood Gun” game, with suggestions on how to improve your performance with the M1 Garand, M1903 Springfield, M1917 Enfield, M1 Carbine, and other 20th Century military rifles. Brian explains what to look for
Q: What should one look for when acquiring older rifles for CMP 4-Gun Games — M1 Garand, M1903/1903A3, M1917, M1 Carbine? What are realistic budgets for these firearms? What kind of accuracy can one expect? What upgrades are important?
Brian: All of these military surplus rifles are out there, but they are getting harder to get your hands on. And, just like everything else, the prices continue to rise. Not that long ago you could get your hands on a M1 Garand for four or five hundred dollars. In today’s market they are usually about double that price. But understand that these rifles are all unique and all have a story to tell. No two are alike, or have the same story. Just like the guns themselves, there are fewer and fewer dedicated gunsmiths for these vintage rifles. But I promise if you look for a good smith, they are out there and they are some of the most interesting people you will ever meet.
M1 Garand — Of the four (4) centerfire guns I shoot in the CMP games, my favorite has to be the M1 Garand. There were over 6 million of them produced in a very short time period, and every single one has its own unique story, and that is just cool. M1 Garands are capable of good accuracy. I believe that a well-maintained M1 with at least a replacement barrel is capable of shooting between 1 and 1.5 MOA.
M1903A3 Springfield — I find that the sights on a M1903A3 are a little easier to see than the sights of the M1903, but both are very accurate rifles. Like most military rifles in the current climate the prices have risen dramatically, but there are some gems out there that can be had for far less than $1000. The nice thing about the Springfield rifle is that almost all of the accuracy than you would want can come from just replacing a worn out 80-year-old barrel. In terms of accuracy, I think a good M1903A3 can shoot 1 MOA most of the time.
M1917 Enfield — This rifle is the newest of my collection and it shoots very well, with just a new Criterion barrel — again about 1 MOA with iron sights. These rifles are very close in price to the M1903 Springfield. But if you do your homework and keep your eyes open, there are always great deals to be found. I actually prefer shooting the M1917 to my M1903A3, due primarily to the M1917’s cock-on-close bolt which allows smoother cycling.
Public domain photo from Armémuseum (The Swedish Army Museum).
M1 Carbine — By 1945 there had been more M1 Carbines built than Garands. Today the Carbine can be harder to find, and due to the scarcity the price has shot up and most military M1 Carbines are going for more than $1000 at this point. The great thing about the M1 Carbine is that as long as you have a good ammo supply this rifle can shoot. Honest. I have had countless numbers of people that tell me that there is not an M1 carbine that will shoot. I can tell you from experience that they will, but you are going to have to put in some time with one to learn how to get it to shoot where you want it.
The M1 Carbine shoots the .30 Carbine round, with 110gr bullet going about 1990 FPS. In comparison, the .30-06 Springfield round used in the M1 Garand is almost three times more powerful than the .30 Carbine.
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Watch this video to see how a sound suppressor (aka “silencer”, “moderator”, or “can”) is constructed, start to finish. It’s more complicated than you might expect — there are quite a few stages in the process. The video below shows the fabrication of a SilencerCo Octane 45 suppressor:
SilencerCo writes: “What, exactly, goes into making a silencer? It may be more than you’d expect. From cutting metal to chemical baths, to extensive quality control every step of the way, our streamlined process is more than just a few steps. Watch our newest video, HOW IT’S MADE: Octane 45, to catch a glimpse behind SilencerCo’s doors.”
How Loud Are Unsuppressed Rifles?
Firearms Are Loud — 140 dB to 175 dB. ASHA explains: “Almost all firearms create noise that is over the 140-dB level. Exposure to noise greater than 140 dB can permanently damage hearing. A small .22-caliber rifle can produce noise around 140 dB, while big-bore rifles and pistols can produce sound over 175 dB. Firing guns in a place where sounds can reverberate, or bounce off walls and other structures, can make noises louder and increase the risk of hearing loss. Also, adding muzzle brakes or other modifications can make the firearm louder. People who do not wear hearing protection while shooting can suffer a severe hearing loss with as little as one shot[.]” Source: ASHA, Recreational Firearm Noise Exposure.
How Much Does a Good Suppressor Really Reduce Firearm Sound Levels?
That depends on the rifle, the cartridge, and the effectiveness of the suppressor. American Hunter explains: “Suppressors retard the speed of propellant gases from the cartridge that rapidly expand and rush out of the barrel. It’s these gases that produce the loud boom that’s heard for miles. A suppressor’s series of internal baffles slows these gases so they are not all released at once, thereby muffling the sound.” Many good commercial suppressors can achieve 30-35 dB sound suppression. However, Zak Smith of Thunder Beast Arms says: “There are a bunch of manufacturers who publish values that are not reproducible, or use an ad-hoc test instead of a mil-spec test. In many cases we’ve tested the exact same suppressors they’ve advertised with 30-40 dB reductions and found they are actually in the high 20s instead.”
Again, for this reason, we recommend that hunters use ear protection, such as electronic muffs, even when shooting suppressed.
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After purchasing a new set of dies from Forster, Hornady, Redding, or Whidden Gunworks, you’ll want to disassemble the dies, inspect then, and then remove the internal grease and/or waxy coatings placed on the dies by the manufacturer. Below are two videos that show how to de-grease and clean dies as they come “out of the box” from the manufacturer. The videos also explain how to clean your dies after regular use. Cleaning your dies helps remove carbon, brass shavings, lube residues and other stuff that can get inside the dies.
In the first video, from Creedmoor Sports, Bill Gravatt (Creedmoor’s President) shows various methods for cleaning dies both when new and after they have accumulated carbon and lube after use. This video is definitely worth watching. In the second video, a Hornady technician shows the method for degreasing dies before first use. A convenient aerosol spray cleaner is used in the video. You can also use a liquid solvent with soft nylon brush, and cotton patches. NOTE: After cleaning you may want to apply a light grease to the external threads of your dies.
Creedmoor Sports Die Cleaning Video with Bill Gravatt
Hornady Video Showing Aerosol Cleaner
Clean Your Sizing Dies and Body Dies Regularly
These same techniques work for cleaning dies after they have been used for reloading. Many otherwise smart hand-loaders forget to clean the inside of their dies, allowing old case lube, gunk, carbon residue, and other contaminants to build up inside the die. You should clean your dies fairly often, particularly if you do not tumble or ultrasound your cases between loadings. It is most important to keep full-length sizing and body dies clean. These dies accumulate lube and carbon residue quickly.
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Product Review by F-Class John
Case preparation is critical for precision reloading. One must trim cases, debur/chamfer case mouths, clean necks, spruce up primer pockets and do other important tasks. Complete case prep can involve many separate processes, each requiring its own tools. With each of those tools comes additional cost as well as the need for more storage and bench space. To make case prep easier, faster, and more convenient Lyman created the Case Prep Xpress (#ad). The Case Prep Xpress, introduced a few years back, combines up to five prep stages into one well-built, stable, versatile unit. Watch this video to see the machine in action:
The Case Prep Xpress features five (5) independently-turning spindles all with the common 8/32 thread. This allows you to attach multiple tools supplied with the unit PLUS many other screw-on prep tools. For our testing we started out using a variety of the 12 included tools and found they cover the majority of case prep tasks. Lyman supplies deburr and chamfer tools, pocket uniformers, reamers and cleaners, as well as an assortment of neck brushes.
The deburr and chamfer tools worked really well, creating beautiful bevels all while leaving a nice flat edge across the top of the neck which is critical for accuracy and brass life. We found the primer pocket cleaning tool did a good job, but for truly clean pockets we recommend using the primer pocket uniforming tool, which very efficiently removes even hard residues.
The benefit of having interchangeable heads is that you can add your own accessories. We like to use a bore brush with bronze wool wrapped around it for use inside our necks. This worked perfectly once we screwed it in. In fact, we couldn’t think of any 8/32-threaded accessory that wouldn’t work well on this machine. Another great design feature is how all the accessories are oriented straight up. This allows for perfect visual alignment of your cases onto the tools which is critical — especially when performing cutting operations such as primer pocket uniforming.
Along with the five power stations there are six female-threaded storage spots on the sides where tools can be placed to ensure they don’t get lost. We like this feature since there will be more than five accessories you want to use and having them easily available is a great feature. You can keep 11 tools right on the machine (5 on top, 6 on the sides). That way you don’t have to dig through storage bins.
The Case Prep Xpress has a removable front bin to hold brass shavings, and there are two circular trays on either side of the bin. In front is a long tray that holds the provided brush. This makes it relatively easy to clean off brass shavings and other debris from case prep processes.
SUMMARY — Versatile Case Prep Xpress Is A Good Value
For the money, Lyman’s Case Prep Xpress is tough to beat. It performs multiple tasks well while being stable and easy-to-use. Yes there are some multi-spindle prep centers that offer variable or fast/slow RPM spindles while the Lyman’s spindles are all fixed RPM. (See, e.g. the RCBS Brass Boss). However those other systems don’t include all the convenient on-board storage of the Case Prep Xpress, and are typically more expensive. The Lyman Case Prep Xpress sells for about $170-$190 “street price”. It’s currently on sale for $179.99 on Amazon (#ad). This makes the Lyman Case Prep Xpress a fine value — it offers great versatility while saving space and saving money compared to buying five or more separate, powered tools.
As an Amazon affiliate, this site can earn revenues through sales commissions.
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Here’s a simple task you can do that will give your seater die a more perfect fit to your match bullets. You can lap the inside of the seater stem so that it matches the exact profile of the bullet. This spreads out the seating force over a larger area of the bullet jacket. That allows smoother, more consistent seating, without putting dents, creases, or sharp rings in your bullets.
This process is demonstrated here by our friend Erik Cortina of Team Lapua-Brux-Borden. Erik, one of the nation’s top F-Class shooters and a skilled machinist, explains: “Here I’m lapping my new seater die stem with lapping compound. I chuck up a bullet in the lathe and lap the inside of the seating stem. I put lapping compound on the bullet and also in the stem. You can do the same with a hand drill and bore paste. You can see in the piture below how much contact area the stem has on the bullet after being lapped. This bullet is a Berger 7mm 180-grain Hybrid. ”
It can be helpful but it’s not necessary to make your seating stem an exact match to a bullet, particularly if you’re loading hunting or varmint rounds. But it is helpful to do some mild internal stem polishing. This should eliminate any ring (or dent) that forms on the bullet jacket during seating.
Sharp edges on a seating stem can cause a ring to be pressed into the bullet jacket — especially with compressed loads that resist downward bullet movement.
Q2: Is there any down-side to the process?
Not really. However, if you shoot many different bullet types for a particular cartridge, you may not want to conform the stem aggressively to one particular bullet design. Lightly lap the inside of the stem to remove burrs/sharp edges but leave it at that. A light lap will prevent a ring forming when seating bullets.
In conclusion, magnums are not perfect but their performance advantages should be very seriously considered when building a rifle for long-range F-Class. In part three, I will list the most common wildcat magnums, and present the KMR magnums which will make you (if you haven’t already) buy a magnum action and get a magnum build for sure!
Precision Benchrest and F-Class shooters favor premium brass from 
The headstamp bunter punch has a protrusion on the end to make the primer pocket, and has raised lettering around the face to form the headstamp writing. This is, of course, all a mirror image of the finished case head. Small cases, such as 5.56×45, can be headed with a single strike. Larger cases, like 7.62×51 and 50 BMG, need to be struck once to form a dent for the primer pocket, then a second strike to finish the pocket, flatten the head, and imprint the writing. This second strike works the brass to harden it so it will support the pressure of firing.”
