By: John F. Noak, "lawndart"

John F. Noak, "lawndart" — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 09:20:21 +0000

I use K-G Kote almost exclusively. I infered a trick from “The Arizona Gunplumber” at Arizona Tactical Response Systems. After careful surface preparation: 1. 120 grit AlO2 at moderate pressure. 2. Manganese phosphate “Parkerizing” for chrome moly parts or some form of mild pickling for the EXTERIOR of stainless steel parts. 3. Degrease with acetone or some other noxious substance (I prefer something nasty under a fume hood, or wearing a mask in a dustless breeze (send wife shopping; church doesn’t last long enough). 4. Spray on Gun-Kote gray (some sources refer to it as a military gray-green). 5. Bake it at 350 degrees F for one half hour longer than spcified in the instructions. 6. The part will look like a thirty year old milspec manganese “parkerized” piece.

When I built M-16 uppers for my son’s for their deployments to Iraq and Afgahistan they had high quaility 16″ Recce style barrels (that looked thirty years old) under Larue Tactical free float tubes that we drug in the dirt for a mile behind the pick-up truck.

Anyway, the product looks like old issue, but shots 1/2 MOA day in and day out.

It is a PITA, but a remarkable digital camo job can be done that will work in 90% of the envirnments out there. I spray the interior parts with a color that shows up on the dirt if you drop them. Finally I lube everything with that Teff Dri stuff from Bore tech. When the bolt group and carier get gunked up I try to find an ultrasonic cleaner to borrow. Otherwise the KG-! carbon solvent works pretty well. I cut up a green follower to make a scraper – keep it sharp.

Thankst to the Arizona Gunplumber for so freely sharing his knowledge. His work is top drawer.

lawndart

Comments on: Spray-On Finish 'How-To' Videos

By: John F. Noak, "lawndart"