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	<title>Comments on: Fire-Forming Dasher Brass with Pistol Powder</title>
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	<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/</link>
	<description>from AccurateShooter.com</description>
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		<title>By: edlongrange</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-30548</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[edlongrange]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 18:41:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-30548</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I had no problem with COW with my 6.5x47 loads but when I went to a similar setup with a 6.5-300 RSAUM Improved I destroyed the necks of at least 25 % - burned chunks out of the sides.  Hard to tell what the problem was (possibly too light a load) but with junk bullets I&#039;ve had zero problems.  Going forward I&#039;ll go with junk bullets - and my fireforming barrel.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I had no problem with COW with my 6.5&#215;47 loads but when I went to a similar setup with a 6.5-300 RSAUM Improved I destroyed the necks of at least 25 % &#8211; burned chunks out of the sides.  Hard to tell what the problem was (possibly too light a load) but with junk bullets I&#8217;ve had zero problems.  Going forward I&#8217;ll go with junk bullets &#8211; and my fireforming barrel.</p>
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		<title>By: Killshot</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-30513</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Killshot]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 15:04:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-30513</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[After just fireforming 200 cases for my new .2704&quot;-necked no-turn 6 Dasher, I can say that loading up virgin, unsized Lapuas with 30.5gr of Varget with a 108BT jammed .030&quot; gave me 200 perfectly formed cases. 

Overworking the brass or firing cereal were not considered, though I know it works for some.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After just fireforming 200 cases for my new .2704&#8243;-necked no-turn 6 Dasher, I can say that loading up virgin, unsized Lapuas with 30.5gr of Varget with a 108BT jammed .030&#8243; gave me 200 perfectly formed cases. </p>
<p>Overworking the brass or firing cereal were not considered, though I know it works for some.</p>
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		<title>By: RM</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-30496</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[RM]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 10:11:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-30496</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This concerns the comment: &quot; &#039;Sandblasting&#039; COW down my match barrel to save a few bucks on bullets makes no sense to me. Bullets are made of guilding metal and your barrel is meant for them. COW is rough and abrasive. It belongs only in a fireforming barrel in my opinion. But if you’re going to get a fireforming barrel, why not just shoot bullets anyway and save your brass from all the stress?&quot;

Where are the FACTS &amp; VALIDITY on the &quot;Sandblasting” COW (Cream of Wheat)????

Creme of Wheat does NOT register on any hardness scale. 

I want some PROOF that &quot;COW&quot; has as &quot;Sandblasting” and abrasive of an effect that kb2051 says there is....

IMHO  &quot;COW&quot; has as negligible effect compared to the powder temp on the steel when being fired.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This concerns the comment: &#8221; &#8216;Sandblasting&#8217; COW down my match barrel to save a few bucks on bullets makes no sense to me. Bullets are made of guilding metal and your barrel is meant for them. COW is rough and abrasive. It belongs only in a fireforming barrel in my opinion. But if you’re going to get a fireforming barrel, why not just shoot bullets anyway and save your brass from all the stress?&#8221;</p>
<p>Where are the FACTS &amp; VALIDITY on the &#8220;Sandblasting” COW (Cream of Wheat)????</p>
<p>Creme of Wheat does NOT register on any hardness scale. </p>
<p>I want some PROOF that &#8220;COW&#8221; has as &#8220;Sandblasting” and abrasive of an effect that kb2051 says there is&#8230;.</p>
<p>IMHO  &#8220;COW&#8221; has as negligible effect compared to the powder temp on the steel when being fired.</p>
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		<title>By: Jed</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-30487</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jed]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 07:31:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-30487</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Always been a big fan of having a designated &quot;fun-gun&quot; made from a used up barrel for forming cases. I feel if you&#039;re gonna pop primers someone may as well have fun doing it. Just have your kids and their friends over for a competition and some fun target shooting. You supply all the ammo loaded with cheap bulk bullets and next thing you know the work is done and a few kids from the neighborhood had fun (you look like the coolest parent ever) and they are quick to remind you to &quot;call me if you ever need any cases formed again!&quot;]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Always been a big fan of having a designated &#8220;fun-gun&#8221; made from a used up barrel for forming cases. I feel if you&#8217;re gonna pop primers someone may as well have fun doing it. Just have your kids and their friends over for a competition and some fun target shooting. You supply all the ammo loaded with cheap bulk bullets and next thing you know the work is done and a few kids from the neighborhood had fun (you look like the coolest parent ever) and they are quick to remind you to &#8220;call me if you ever need any cases formed again!&#8221;</p>
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		<title>By: big45guy</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-30478</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[big45guy]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 06:51:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-30478</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Since he has a barrel to fire form with I would chamber it with a no turn neck. I would use the cheapest bullets I could get, like the dog town specials. This would do away with all this extra work and clean up.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Since he has a barrel to fire form with I would chamber it with a no turn neck. I would use the cheapest bullets I could get, like the dog town specials. This would do away with all this extra work and clean up.</p>
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		<title>By: kb2051</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-15785</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[kb2051]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Apr 2011 21:22:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-15785</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This method would be my choice of fireforming if I lived in the middle of a big city with no access to a firing range nearby.  But I don&#039;t like how far it moves the brass, and I&#039;d still want a dedicated fireforming barrel for the job.  &quot;Sandblasting&quot; COW down my match barrel to save a few bucks on bullets makes no sense to me.  Bullets are made of guilding metal and your barrel is meant for them.  COW is rough and abrasive.  It belongs only in a fireforming barrel in my opinion.  But if you&#039;re going to get a fireforming barrel, why not just shoot bullets anyway and save your brass from all the stress?

Editor: &lt;em&gt;All good points you raise. But one other advantage of no-bullet fire-forming is that you can neck-turn AFTER fire-forming, even if you have a tight-neck chamber. For a case like a Dasher, than makes the neck-turning operation much easier.&lt;/em&gt;]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This method would be my choice of fireforming if I lived in the middle of a big city with no access to a firing range nearby.  But I don&#8217;t like how far it moves the brass, and I&#8217;d still want a dedicated fireforming barrel for the job.  &#8220;Sandblasting&#8221; COW down my match barrel to save a few bucks on bullets makes no sense to me.  Bullets are made of guilding metal and your barrel is meant for them.  COW is rough and abrasive.  It belongs only in a fireforming barrel in my opinion.  But if you&#8217;re going to get a fireforming barrel, why not just shoot bullets anyway and save your brass from all the stress?</p>
<p>Editor: <em>All good points you raise. But one other advantage of no-bullet fire-forming is that you can neck-turn AFTER fire-forming, even if you have a tight-neck chamber. For a case like a Dasher, than makes the neck-turning operation much easier.</em></p>
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		<title>By: Trevor Rosencranse</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-15784</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Trevor Rosencranse]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Apr 2011 14:22:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-15784</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you want 100 percent success and no reject cases during your case forming with &quot;0&quot; barrel wear.The hydralic forming process is the only way to go.This process re-locates the brass used in the shoulder area on the formed case  from the case mouth every time.And there are no breakfast products utilized.There are no powder,bullets,primers used either.The formed case water capacity runs in the 99% range.The formed cases are .005-.010 long at the datum which is corrected using your full lenght die to obtain .001-.002 loose fit in your chamber.If you have questions please contact me.This process works on almost any improved cartridge.

Trevor Rosencranse]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you want 100 percent success and no reject cases during your case forming with &#8220;0&#8221; barrel wear.The hydralic forming process is the only way to go.This process re-locates the brass used in the shoulder area on the formed case  from the case mouth every time.And there are no breakfast products utilized.There are no powder,bullets,primers used either.The formed case water capacity runs in the 99% range.The formed cases are .005-.010 long at the datum which is corrected using your full lenght die to obtain .001-.002 loose fit in your chamber.If you have questions please contact me.This process works on almost any improved cartridge.</p>
<p>Trevor Rosencranse</p>
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		<title>By: Robert Whitley</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-15764</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Robert Whitley]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 07 Apr 2011 15:22:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-15764</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The only comment I have is that if you are not shooting bullets, then you need to use the false shoulder method, but that over works the neck metal a lot (i.e. expanded way up, then resized way back down again to create a false shoulder) and that is not ideal for the brass.  I do not use the false shoulder method, and if you can use fire forming rounds for practice, match shooting, hunting, or some other purpose, then I would not use the false shoulder method (unless there is another compelling reason why it is necessary, and sometimes there is).

Robert Whitley]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The only comment I have is that if you are not shooting bullets, then you need to use the false shoulder method, but that over works the neck metal a lot (i.e. expanded way up, then resized way back down again to create a false shoulder) and that is not ideal for the brass.  I do not use the false shoulder method, and if you can use fire forming rounds for practice, match shooting, hunting, or some other purpose, then I would not use the false shoulder method (unless there is another compelling reason why it is necessary, and sometimes there is).</p>
<p>Robert Whitley</p>
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		<title>By: edlongrange</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-15747</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[edlongrange]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Apr 2011 22:17:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-15747</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[1.  Do NOT use INSTANT CoW, use the &quot;Original 2 1/2 Minute&quot; product - image at the top of this product page http://www.bgfoods.com/creamofwheat/cow_products.asp

2.  IMHO a much better &quot;plug&quot; is the NECO P-wad.  No concern about the paper coming out on the way to the range, or in storage waiting an opportunity to fire form, or the time to rip and wad up the paper.  You also need their insertion tool.  Work GREAT!  Link - http://www.neconos.com/category/Reloading-Aids-16

3. Also, you’ll want to bend a heavy paper clip at an appropriate angle to reach the inside of the case at the shoulder. Run the paper clip wire over the interior shoulder area to remove any fire formed CoW residue.

4. All the above from edlongrange per my personal experience with 300 6.5×47 Lapua cases AND the generous knowledgebase of one Lynn Dragoman, Jr. Thanks Lynn!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>1.  Do NOT use INSTANT CoW, use the &#8220;Original 2 1/2 Minute&#8221; product &#8211; image at the top of this product page <a href="http://www.bgfoods.com/creamofwheat/cow_products.asp" rel="nofollow">http://www.bgfoods.com/creamofwheat/cow_products.asp</a></p>
<p>2.  IMHO a much better &#8220;plug&#8221; is the NECO P-wad.  No concern about the paper coming out on the way to the range, or in storage waiting an opportunity to fire form, or the time to rip and wad up the paper.  You also need their insertion tool.  Work GREAT!  Link &#8211; <a href="http://www.neconos.com/category/Reloading-Aids-16" rel="nofollow">http://www.neconos.com/category/Reloading-Aids-16</a></p>
<p>3. Also, you’ll want to bend a heavy paper clip at an appropriate angle to reach the inside of the case at the shoulder. Run the paper clip wire over the interior shoulder area to remove any fire formed CoW residue.</p>
<p>4. All the above from edlongrange per my personal experience with 300 6.5×47 Lapua cases AND the generous knowledgebase of one Lynn Dragoman, Jr. Thanks Lynn!</p>
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		<title>By: lee gardner</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2012/02/tech-tip-fire-forming-with-pistol-powder/comment-page-1/#comment-15746</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[lee gardner]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Apr 2011 21:36:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/?p=7058#comment-15746</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[No barrel wear?? Fire is fire, and pistol powder burns even hotter than rifle powder, so you can sure bet there will be some wear!!!! Good article though. Lee

EDITOR: Lee, you&#039;re right, there is still hot flame and gas, but remember one is looking at about eight (8) grains of pistol powder vs. 30+ of rifle powder with this case. Also the article states the process &quot;avoids&quot;, i.e. reduces barrel wear. It doesn&#039;t claim this eliminates barrel wear.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>No barrel wear?? Fire is fire, and pistol powder burns even hotter than rifle powder, so you can sure bet there will be some wear!!!! Good article though. Lee</p>
<p>EDITOR: Lee, you&#8217;re right, there is still hot flame and gas, but remember one is looking at about eight (8) grains of pistol powder vs. 30+ of rifle powder with this case. Also the article states the process &#8220;avoids&#8221;, i.e. reduces barrel wear. It doesn&#8217;t claim this eliminates barrel wear.</p>
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