By: Bruce

Bruce — Sun, 29 Mar 2015 16:30:26 +0000

I have been doing this since the late 70s. I also zero in at 25 yds. then final zero out at 100. Back in the day I used a tape measure, today I use a range finder.
Glad to see days of old are coming of age.

By: joe

joe — Mon, 03 Nov 2014 00:32:12 +0000

I recently put a TPS scope rail on my Savage 10 FCP and zeroed my rifle with a few shots since I was by myself ;I’ve been using this zeroing method for years and I’ve always hit dead center after jut a few rounds. Everyone loves it…

By: Boyd Allen

Boyd Allen — Sun, 02 Nov 2014 17:52:12 +0000

Good, as far as it goes. Shooters need to remember that making a small scope adjustment based on one shot is a really bad idea, what you may be seeing is a wide shot in a group that would have formed if you had shot more shots. I see this all the time, fellows making half inch adjustments based on one shot from a factory rifle, with a low power scope, shooting factory ammo, that they would be lucky to shoot an inch and a half three shot group with. Another thing, scope adjustments may not move the point of impact until a couple of shots have shaken the scope a bit. Recently I ran across a fellow at the range that had an old scope, that he had been struggling with for a large number of shots, trying to get it sighted in. The thing that solved his problem was me telling him that all adjustments needed to be finished turning the adjustment in the clockwise direction, as if he was tightening a screw or bolt, and if the adjustment needed to be in the counterclockwise direction, that he needed to turn past his final adjustment at least an inch at 100 yards, or more, and come back to where he wanted to be with a clockwise direction. Doing that, he was able to sight his rifle in. The scope was an old Leupold 3×9.

Comments on: How to Zero Your Hunting Rifle the Easy Way

By: Bruce

By: joe

By: Boyd Allen