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	<title>Comments on: Muzzle Threading &#8212; Don&#8217;t Remove Too Much Steel</title>
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	<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/</link>
	<description>from AccurateShooter.com</description>
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		<title>By: Aaron</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-57918</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Aaron]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Dec 2019 18:25:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-57918</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A more interesting study would consider the effect on precision.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A more interesting study would consider the effect on precision.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: John Yossarian</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-51852</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[John Yossarian]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Dec 2016 11:56:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-51852</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Question - What&#039;s that collar installed on the barrel with 3/4&quot;x28 threads?  Is that for muzzle attachments to tighten against?

If I&#039;m planning to turn down a .809&quot; barrel for 3/4&quot; threads instead of 5/8&quot; - Do you think I&#039;ll need to install something like this collar?  Thanks for your advice.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Question &#8211; What&#8217;s that collar installed on the barrel with 3/4&#8243;x28 threads?  Is that for muzzle attachments to tighten against?</p>
<p>If I&#8217;m planning to turn down a .809&#8243; barrel for 3/4&#8243; threads instead of 5/8&#8243; &#8211; Do you think I&#8217;ll need to install something like this collar?  Thanks for your advice.</p>
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		<title>By: Ed Palumbo</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-47383</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Ed Palumbo]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 11 Apr 2015 05:03:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-47383</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#039;m in the process of having a rifle rebarreled, and the selection of the muzzle brake is my choice. This information further defines my choice, so I appreciate it. Thank you.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;m in the process of having a rifle rebarreled, and the selection of the muzzle brake is my choice. This information further defines my choice, so I appreciate it. Thank you.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: Jim See</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-47363</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jim See]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Apr 2015 14:43:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-47363</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I couldn&#039;t tell you how many cut rifled barrels I installed brakes on with tennon dia. from 1/2&quot;x28 up to 1&quot;x24 The fact that I offered a 1/2 moa guarantee and free barrel replacement if it did not meet that standard on rifles I built would insure I would get a call and a rework of that rifle. In 6 years I replaced 3 barrels and only 1 had a brake. So if in fact bore expansion does occur you must also quantify the results of this occurrence in 5/8 or smaller tennon dia.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I couldn&#8217;t tell you how many cut rifled barrels I installed brakes on with tennon dia. from 1/2&#8243;x28 up to 1&#8243;x24 The fact that I offered a 1/2 moa guarantee and free barrel replacement if it did not meet that standard on rifles I built would insure I would get a call and a rework of that rifle. In 6 years I replaced 3 barrels and only 1 had a brake. So if in fact bore expansion does occur you must also quantify the results of this occurrence in 5/8 or smaller tennon dia.</p>
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		<title>By: frank green</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-47328</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[frank green]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2015 11:55:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-47328</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Muzzle brakes and flash hiders even if there is no stress in the blank you can over tighten them and effect the bore dimensions and cause accuracy problems. Be careful how you install these as well. 

Later, Frank]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Muzzle brakes and flash hiders even if there is no stress in the blank you can over tighten them and effect the bore dimensions and cause accuracy problems. Be careful how you install these as well. </p>
<p>Later, Frank</p>
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		<title>By: frank green</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-47327</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[frank green]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2015 11:53:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-47327</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Barry, From what I understand only two of the barrels were cut rifled and were ours and also these were the only ones where the muzzle didn&#039;t go open up at all. The rest were button from what I understand. Maybe Robert could chime in here and explain it in a little more detail. 

Even just cutting and crowning the muzzle if you hit a residual stress point the bore can open up. This is also a reason I would never flute a button rifled barrel as well. Residual stress. No barrel maker can measure for it and it&#039;s more prominent or problematic in a button rifled barrel. 

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Barry, From what I understand only two of the barrels were cut rifled and were ours and also these were the only ones where the muzzle didn&#8217;t go open up at all. The rest were button from what I understand. Maybe Robert could chime in here and explain it in a little more detail. </p>
<p>Even just cutting and crowning the muzzle if you hit a residual stress point the bore can open up. This is also a reason I would never flute a button rifled barrel as well. Residual stress. No barrel maker can measure for it and it&#8217;s more prominent or problematic in a button rifled barrel. </p>
<p>Later, Frank<br />
Bartlein Barrels</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Barry</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-47321</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Barry]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Apr 2015 18:15:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-47321</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Are the barrels in the video all button rifled? 

The conventional wisdom is that button barrel bores expand when you contour them, hammer forged bores actually shrink, and cut rifled stay the same.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Are the barrels in the video all button rifled? </p>
<p>The conventional wisdom is that button barrel bores expand when you contour them, hammer forged bores actually shrink, and cut rifled stay the same.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: bill</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-47320</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[bill]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Apr 2015 14:19:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-47320</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Hank.  What you are experiencing is more likley due to the flash hider acting like a tuner or muzzle device than a &quot;choke&quot; bringing the bore back to dimension.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hank.  What you are experiencing is more likley due to the flash hider acting like a tuner or muzzle device than a &#8220;choke&#8221; bringing the bore back to dimension.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Hank</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-47319</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Hank]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Apr 2015 03:04:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-47319</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I believe that I witnessed this effect on my AR-15 when testing accuracy with and without the flash hider attached.

Removing the flash hider resulted in bullets printing an inch low at 100 yds. Replacing the hider brought them back on target.

I never could figure out why until I saw this video.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I believe that I witnessed this effect on my AR-15 when testing accuracy with and without the flash hider attached.</p>
<p>Removing the flash hider resulted in bullets printing an inch low at 100 yds. Replacing the hider brought them back on target.</p>
<p>I never could figure out why until I saw this video.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bruce</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2015/04/muzzle-threading-dont-remove-too-much-steel/comment-page-1/#comment-47317</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Bruce]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Apr 2015 22:55:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=56222#comment-47317</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I suspect that the issue of &quot;belling&quot; has been recognized for a while now.

Let&#039;s go WAY back to Lee Enfield barrels.

They were NOT buttoned or gang-broached, but cut with MANY passes of a traditional single-tooth cutter.

But it gets more interesting. The basic &quot;blank&quot; was a &quot;forging&quot; that started out as a bar of steel not much bigger than final diameter. The breech end was formed on this billet by heating and &quot;upsetting&quot;. (No, not being rude to it), but by heating it up in a forge and literally hammering /dropping it on that end to make it bulge out to form the bulk needed at the breech reinforce. This probably also had the useful side effect of &quot;rearranging&quot; the crystal / grain structure in this area to provide better resistance to the radial shock of firing.

Once the bar was roughly formed it was checked for straightness, adjusted, stress relieved etc, before being drilled and reamed.

I have several MINT barrels for the No1 (SMLE) rifle here and they ALL show some &quot;belling&quot; of the lands at the muzzle. I strongly suspect that this is a result of the final lapping.

Having said that, VERY early SMLE barrels sere TAPER lapped. Why? they were attempting to approach the velocities of the earlier &quot;long&quot; Lee Enfield barrels by reducing the height of the lands as they approached the muzzle. (This with the 220gn, hard nicked-jacketed Mk6 bullet as well!

The peculiar thing about Lee Enfield barrels, apart from the 5-groove, left-hand twist, is the dimensions of the rifling. The &quot;bore&quot; size was very tightly specified at: 0.301&quot;Min / 0.304&quot;Max. HOWEVER, groove depth runs from 0.005&quot; to 0.008&quot;. Thus you could end up with a maximum &quot;acceptable&quot; groove diameter of 0.320&quot;! This with a 0.311&quot; diameter bullet.

The past is a very foreign country, indeed.

So, the British .303 cartridge was essentially that very &quot;modern&quot; thing, a &quot;bore-rider&quot;.

The advent of the &quot;high-velocity&quot; Mk7 spitzer bullet threw all of the previous practices out the window and from about 1913 onwards, all barrels were parallel bored and rifled. The only problem was the muzzle belling resulting from over-zealous final lapping that continued to the very end of production.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I suspect that the issue of &#8220;belling&#8221; has been recognized for a while now.</p>
<p>Let&#8217;s go WAY back to Lee Enfield barrels.</p>
<p>They were NOT buttoned or gang-broached, but cut with MANY passes of a traditional single-tooth cutter.</p>
<p>But it gets more interesting. The basic &#8220;blank&#8221; was a &#8220;forging&#8221; that started out as a bar of steel not much bigger than final diameter. The breech end was formed on this billet by heating and &#8220;upsetting&#8221;. (No, not being rude to it), but by heating it up in a forge and literally hammering /dropping it on that end to make it bulge out to form the bulk needed at the breech reinforce. This probably also had the useful side effect of &#8220;rearranging&#8221; the crystal / grain structure in this area to provide better resistance to the radial shock of firing.</p>
<p>Once the bar was roughly formed it was checked for straightness, adjusted, stress relieved etc, before being drilled and reamed.</p>
<p>I have several MINT barrels for the No1 (SMLE) rifle here and they ALL show some &#8220;belling&#8221; of the lands at the muzzle. I strongly suspect that this is a result of the final lapping.</p>
<p>Having said that, VERY early SMLE barrels sere TAPER lapped. Why? they were attempting to approach the velocities of the earlier &#8220;long&#8221; Lee Enfield barrels by reducing the height of the lands as they approached the muzzle. (This with the 220gn, hard nicked-jacketed Mk6 bullet as well!</p>
<p>The peculiar thing about Lee Enfield barrels, apart from the 5-groove, left-hand twist, is the dimensions of the rifling. The &#8220;bore&#8221; size was very tightly specified at: 0.301&#8243;Min / 0.304&#8243;Max. HOWEVER, groove depth runs from 0.005&#8243; to 0.008&#8243;. Thus you could end up with a maximum &#8220;acceptable&#8221; groove diameter of 0.320&#8243;! This with a 0.311&#8243; diameter bullet.</p>
<p>The past is a very foreign country, indeed.</p>
<p>So, the British .303 cartridge was essentially that very &#8220;modern&#8221; thing, a &#8220;bore-rider&#8221;.</p>
<p>The advent of the &#8220;high-velocity&#8221; Mk7 spitzer bullet threw all of the previous practices out the window and from about 1913 onwards, all barrels were parallel bored and rifled. The only problem was the muzzle belling resulting from over-zealous final lapping that continued to the very end of production.</p>
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