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	<title>Comments on: Efficient Method for Bullet Coating with Moly, WS2, HBN</title>
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	<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/</link>
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		<title>By: mike vallee</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-50917</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[mike vallee]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jun 2016 22:43:54 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[I use a magnet to remove the steal BB&#039;s from the mollyed bullets, to keep my fingers cleaner.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use a magnet to remove the steal BB&#8217;s from the mollyed bullets, to keep my fingers cleaner.</p>
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		<title>By: Richard</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-50914</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Richard]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jun 2016 17:03:52 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[When using hBN, for optimal and satisfying results, the bullets require impact plating via a tumbler.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When using hBN, for optimal and satisfying results, the bullets require impact plating via a tumbler.</p>
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		<title>By: Michael</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-42006</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Michael]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 10 Apr 2013 16:03:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/08/03/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/#comment-42006</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I do the same as Mike, but I use old med. bottles, I am talking about the bottles you by at the store.  the ones that hold the bulk Ibuprofen bottles, they have a screw on lid.  I put about 50 bb&#039;s (Stole from my daughters BB gun). I can put more then 100 22 cal 40 gr bullets in one.  but, I can put about 4 bottles in my tumbler.  each bottle I have marked for a diffeent cal.  that way I dont spent time sorting out the bullets.  
Just a thought!]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I do the same as Mike, but I use old med. bottles, I am talking about the bottles you by at the store.  the ones that hold the bulk Ibuprofen bottles, they have a screw on lid.  I put about 50 bb&#8217;s (Stole from my daughters BB gun). I can put more then 100 22 cal 40 gr bullets in one.  but, I can put about 4 bottles in my tumbler.  each bottle I have marked for a diffeent cal.  that way I dont spent time sorting out the bullets.<br />
Just a thought!</p>
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		<title>By: lee gardner</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-25994</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[lee gardner]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 08 Jan 2012 23:51:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/08/03/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/#comment-25994</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[My best friend puts his bullets in a large pill bottle then adds the moly and throws the bottle in the dryer with his cloths. Plenty of heat there. they look great when they come out 55 min later. Lee]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My best friend puts his bullets in a large pill bottle then adds the moly and throws the bottle in the dryer with his cloths. Plenty of heat there. they look great when they come out 55 min later. Lee</p>
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		<title>By: Kristian</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-25989</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Kristian]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 08 Jan 2012 20:47:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/08/03/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/#comment-25989</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[hBN is chemically inert material, roughly similar to fine ground ceramics, which is deposited via impacts of the stainless balls on the bullet surface. I might be wrong, but I did not see any difference in quality of application if the bullet is hot or not...]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hBN is chemically inert material, roughly similar to fine ground ceramics, which is deposited via impacts of the stainless balls on the bullet surface. I might be wrong, but I did not see any difference in quality of application if the bullet is hot or not&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Norz</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-6304</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Norz]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Aug 2010 22:40:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/08/03/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/#comment-6304</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The bullets are copper jacketed, copper transfers heat rapidly.

Heating the bullets to achive better coating has not proven to work (unless for cleaning to expand the jacket metal to better remove lubricating residu from forming an drawing), for better or vorse. That is unless your, media, tumbling container and the room temperature be close to 100-150 degrees or more.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The bullets are copper jacketed, copper transfers heat rapidly.</p>
<p>Heating the bullets to achive better coating has not proven to work (unless for cleaning to expand the jacket metal to better remove lubricating residu from forming an drawing), for better or vorse. That is unless your, media, tumbling container and the room temperature be close to 100-150 degrees or more.</p>
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		<title>By: Steve Clark</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-6287</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Steve Clark]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Aug 2010 01:02:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/08/03/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/#comment-6287</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I concur with both gentlemen&#039;s statements!

A word of caution on selection &amp; use of a resealable container - make sure it&#039;s virtually unbreakable and that you&#039;re confident the lid won&#039;t come off during tumbling. (Go ahead...ask me how I learned this!)

I use well-cleaned peanut butter jars with screw-on lids secured by gaffer tape.

Noting myself that heat helps bullet coating, when I was coating a LOT of bullets a few years ago during the winter, I built a device out of a steel garbage can &amp; hair dryer that would allow my tumbler to reach quite warm temps for the duration of the process. Adding an electric baseboard thermostat allowed fairly precise high end temp limit; I think a conventional gas furnace fan thermostat (NOT what goes on your house walls!) would also work if rated for 110 VAC.

This also served me well for the few times I went to the range in the winter, as long as power were available. I could keep my ammo at summer temps for reliable testing in the dead (here that can be anywhere from 32 to -20 F) of winter.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I concur with both gentlemen&#8217;s statements!</p>
<p>A word of caution on selection &amp; use of a resealable container &#8211; make sure it&#8217;s virtually unbreakable and that you&#8217;re confident the lid won&#8217;t come off during tumbling. (Go ahead&#8230;ask me how I learned this!)</p>
<p>I use well-cleaned peanut butter jars with screw-on lids secured by gaffer tape.</p>
<p>Noting myself that heat helps bullet coating, when I was coating a LOT of bullets a few years ago during the winter, I built a device out of a steel garbage can &amp; hair dryer that would allow my tumbler to reach quite warm temps for the duration of the process. Adding an electric baseboard thermostat allowed fairly precise high end temp limit; I think a conventional gas furnace fan thermostat (NOT what goes on your house walls!) would also work if rated for 110 VAC.</p>
<p>This also served me well for the few times I went to the range in the winter, as long as power were available. I could keep my ammo at summer temps for reliable testing in the dead (here that can be anywhere from 32 to -20 F) of winter.</p>
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		<title>By: Editor</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-300</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Editor]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Sep 2008 16:04:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/08/03/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/#comment-300</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[EDITOR: Ali, some folks do this. However, we do not recommend tumbling live ammo, particularly using a vibratory tumbler. The reason is that tumbling can cause a breakdown of the powder kernals inside the case and/or alter the burn-rate retarding coatings on the outside of the kernels. This can result in the powder changing its burning properties, with dangerous consequences.

The individual grains of powder are coated. This coating (and kernel size) controls burning rate. Tumbling may change that. Read a can of powder, it says do not shake (for that reason).

Note: RCBS specifically warns against tumbling live ammo.

Here is a discussion from www.frfrogspad.com/miscellc.htm#tumbling :

Q. Is tumbling loaded ammunition dangerous?
A. Short term tumbling will have no real affect on loaded ammunition, but extensive tumbling can cause the breakdown of the powder grains. This would have two major effects. First, smaller grains will ignite more quickly than larger grains, and second the deterrent coating on the outside of the grains may be rubbed off and will be absent from any fractured edges which will cause the powder to burn more quickly raising pressures.

Tests run some years ago by a commercial entity did indicate that potentially dangerous changes in powder charge burning characteristics do take place after PROLONGED periods in either a vibratory or a tumbling cleaner.

The key word here is prolonged. Many manufacturers of ammunition do a final cleaning of their product either by tumbling or a vibratory process before boxing it for shipment. In no case is this allowed to exceed more than just a couple of minutes. The intent is not so much to &quot;polish&quot; but to remove any traces of contaminants which might in time leave marks on the finished product. There seems to be a consensus among the ammunition manufacturing engineers that a minute or two of vibratory cleaning has no discernable effect on burning rates, especially for loads that are compressed, or nearly so. However, all have emphasized the need for EXTREME CAUTION not to overdo the process.

They also pointed out that there is a considerable difference in effect on the powder charge depending on whether the process is by &quot;tumbling&quot; or &quot;vibrating.&quot; It would appear that tumbling has less effect on the powder than vibrating, though this is mostly a matter of degree. The admonition to use EXTREME CAUTION to insure that the process never exceeds a couple of minutes applies equally to either process.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>EDITOR: Ali, some folks do this. However, we do not recommend tumbling live ammo, particularly using a vibratory tumbler. The reason is that tumbling can cause a breakdown of the powder kernals inside the case and/or alter the burn-rate retarding coatings on the outside of the kernels. This can result in the powder changing its burning properties, with dangerous consequences.</p>
<p>The individual grains of powder are coated. This coating (and kernel size) controls burning rate. Tumbling may change that. Read a can of powder, it says do not shake (for that reason).</p>
<p>Note: RCBS specifically warns against tumbling live ammo.</p>
<p>Here is a discussion from <a href="http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscellc.htm#tumbling" rel="nofollow">http://www.frfrogspad.com/miscellc.htm#tumbling</a> :</p>
<p>Q. Is tumbling loaded ammunition dangerous?<br />
A. Short term tumbling will have no real affect on loaded ammunition, but extensive tumbling can cause the breakdown of the powder grains. This would have two major effects. First, smaller grains will ignite more quickly than larger grains, and second the deterrent coating on the outside of the grains may be rubbed off and will be absent from any fractured edges which will cause the powder to burn more quickly raising pressures.</p>
<p>Tests run some years ago by a commercial entity did indicate that potentially dangerous changes in powder charge burning characteristics do take place after PROLONGED periods in either a vibratory or a tumbling cleaner.</p>
<p>The key word here is prolonged. Many manufacturers of ammunition do a final cleaning of their product either by tumbling or a vibratory process before boxing it for shipment. In no case is this allowed to exceed more than just a couple of minutes. The intent is not so much to &#8220;polish&#8221; but to remove any traces of contaminants which might in time leave marks on the finished product. There seems to be a consensus among the ammunition manufacturing engineers that a minute or two of vibratory cleaning has no discernable effect on burning rates, especially for loads that are compressed, or nearly so. However, all have emphasized the need for EXTREME CAUTION not to overdo the process.</p>
<p>They also pointed out that there is a considerable difference in effect on the powder charge depending on whether the process is by &#8220;tumbling&#8221; or &#8220;vibrating.&#8221; It would appear that tumbling has less effect on the powder than vibrating, though this is mostly a matter of degree. The admonition to use EXTREME CAUTION to insure that the process never exceeds a couple of minutes applies equally to either process.</p>
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		<title>By: ali awan</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-301</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[ali awan]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Sep 2008 12:36:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/08/03/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/#comment-301</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[hi
dear sir can we clean our live ammo in tumbler . if not then pls
explain why ?
i hope to hear from you soon
take care
ali awan]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hi<br />
dear sir can we clean our live ammo in tumbler . if not then pls<br />
explain why ?<br />
i hope to hear from you soon<br />
take care<br />
ali awan</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>By: GIGene</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2016/06/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/comment-page-1/#comment-299</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[GIGene]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 28 Dec 2007 23:51:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2007/08/03/efficient-method-for-bullet-coating/#comment-299</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#039;ve been doing a lot of research into the Moly vs. Tungsten coating controversy that&#039;s going around. I&#039;m by no means an expert on the subject yet but hopefully that will change. I&#039;ve noticed that although the moly coating is very good at reducing friction, over time the moly coating can leave deosits that build up and forces the shooter to go to extra lengths to remove the buildup. The Tungsten DiSulfide treatment has higher lubrication abilities, is not toxic according to the MSDS sheets I&#039;ve looked at and it does not leave deposits that the moly coating can. Now I&#039;m no rocket scientist but it sure seems to me that my first test of this will be with the Tungsten Disulfide. If anybody out there can point me to some more resources on this please let me know.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve been doing a lot of research into the Moly vs. Tungsten coating controversy that&#8217;s going around. I&#8217;m by no means an expert on the subject yet but hopefully that will change. I&#8217;ve noticed that although the moly coating is very good at reducing friction, over time the moly coating can leave deosits that build up and forces the shooter to go to extra lengths to remove the buildup. The Tungsten DiSulfide treatment has higher lubrication abilities, is not toxic according to the MSDS sheets I&#8217;ve looked at and it does not leave deposits that the moly coating can. Now I&#8217;m no rocket scientist but it sure seems to me that my first test of this will be with the Tungsten Disulfide. If anybody out there can point me to some more resources on this please let me know.</p>
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