<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	
	>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Tech Tip: Coping with Corrosive Ammo</title>
	<atom:link href="https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/</link>
	<description>from AccurateShooter.com</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Thu, 30 Apr 2026 14:59:33 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>https://wordpress.org/?v=4.1.26</generator>
	<item>
		<title>By: Zero333</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/comment-page-1/#comment-54610</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Zero333]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 05 Mar 2018 02:06:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=54322#comment-54610</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I shoot tons of corrosive 7.62x39 in both my SKS&#039;s.
The most accurate surplus stuff I have is from China made in 1972-1973.
So I&#039;ve learned the best, simplest and effortless way to clean the rifle and stop the corrosion.
After I&#039;m done shooting the corrosive stuff I load shoot 20 rounds of non-corrosive ammo very fast.  
This is the only way to get all the corrosive-ness out.   I&#039;ve tried everything over the years and shooting 20 rounds of non-corrosive ammo really fast is the only way that actually works 100%.   And shooting as fast as possible is fun too.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I shoot tons of corrosive 7.62&#215;39 in both my SKS&#8217;s.<br />
The most accurate surplus stuff I have is from China made in 1972-1973.<br />
So I&#8217;ve learned the best, simplest and effortless way to clean the rifle and stop the corrosion.<br />
After I&#8217;m done shooting the corrosive stuff I load shoot 20 rounds of non-corrosive ammo very fast.<br />
This is the only way to get all the corrosive-ness out.   I&#8217;ve tried everything over the years and shooting 20 rounds of non-corrosive ammo really fast is the only way that actually works 100%.   And shooting as fast as possible is fun too.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: GeneD</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/comment-page-1/#comment-54605</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[GeneD]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Mar 2018 16:49:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=54322#comment-54605</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In reference to the &quot;JUNK&quot; ammo ; I assume you are referring to the Mil-surp , or military surplus ammo designed for these weapons. Junk ? Not hardly. It just requires a different cleaning regimen than we are used to. Some of us are old enough to remember when mercury fulminate was used in primers in this country, and a more extensive cleaning practice was also in play. But the Comm-bloc mil-surp is a long way from being &quot;JUNK&quot;. Just clean properly when finished firing.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In reference to the &#8220;JUNK&#8221; ammo ; I assume you are referring to the Mil-surp , or military surplus ammo designed for these weapons. Junk ? Not hardly. It just requires a different cleaning regimen than we are used to. Some of us are old enough to remember when mercury fulminate was used in primers in this country, and a more extensive cleaning practice was also in play. But the Comm-bloc mil-surp is a long way from being &#8220;JUNK&#8221;. Just clean properly when finished firing.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Bruce</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/comment-page-1/#comment-54604</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Bruce]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Mar 2018 10:02:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=54322#comment-54604</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Those of us who grew up with the .303 Brit cartridge take PROPER gun care in our stride.

The old military ammo with the big copper primer cup was invariably CORROSIVE and the mercury wrecked the brass. In a climate like Florida or the eastern seaboard of Australia, ONE night without proper cleaning will result in bores taking on a brown and crunchy appearance.

NOTE: Even hard-chromed bores are NOT immune, just a bit more resistant. ONE micro-fracture in the chrome skin and the corrosive salts will start doing their thing, UNDER the chrome. Once it starts on the steel substrate, you will quickly see chrome starting to flake off. 

It was normal practice, at least by those who wanted their expensive machinery to last, to use BOILING or very hot water as a bore cleaner. There were suppliers of nifty funnels that ran a fair way into the chamber and had an &quot;anti-splash&quot; shroud at the top of the funnel to keep water out of the woodwork. Keep pouring the water through until it runs clear and you should have removed all of the soluble salts (Chlorides) that eat your barrels. The heat transferred to the barrel steel will help dry it out pretty much before you can run a dry patch through.

In a real military situation, rifles were cleaned and oiled as soon as possible after firing and then re-cleaned several times over the next week. Military &quot;gun oils&quot; are often  a much more complex brew than sewing-machine oil.

This water and oil regime works well on AKs and SKS&#039;s firing any ammo. DO NOT neglect all of the components in the gas system; piston, spring, cylinder, regulator, etc. At the very least, hose out the bore and ALL working parts with one of the good commercial corrosion-inhibiting &quot;oils&quot;, before packing the gun away for travel home. As soon as possible after arriving home, strip and thoroughly clean  and put away in the usual secure place, away from temperature changes. 

&quot;Windex&quot; and similar products are to be used only as a last resort and then only until PROPER cleaning materials are available. 

Simple rule: Treat ALL ammo as corrosive, clean with that in mind and your guns will last a LOT longer. Good cleaning gear and timely use thereof, is a LOT cheaper than re-barrelling or rebuilding a rifle.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Those of us who grew up with the .303 Brit cartridge take PROPER gun care in our stride.</p>
<p>The old military ammo with the big copper primer cup was invariably CORROSIVE and the mercury wrecked the brass. In a climate like Florida or the eastern seaboard of Australia, ONE night without proper cleaning will result in bores taking on a brown and crunchy appearance.</p>
<p>NOTE: Even hard-chromed bores are NOT immune, just a bit more resistant. ONE micro-fracture in the chrome skin and the corrosive salts will start doing their thing, UNDER the chrome. Once it starts on the steel substrate, you will quickly see chrome starting to flake off. </p>
<p>It was normal practice, at least by those who wanted their expensive machinery to last, to use BOILING or very hot water as a bore cleaner. There were suppliers of nifty funnels that ran a fair way into the chamber and had an &#8220;anti-splash&#8221; shroud at the top of the funnel to keep water out of the woodwork. Keep pouring the water through until it runs clear and you should have removed all of the soluble salts (Chlorides) that eat your barrels. The heat transferred to the barrel steel will help dry it out pretty much before you can run a dry patch through.</p>
<p>In a real military situation, rifles were cleaned and oiled as soon as possible after firing and then re-cleaned several times over the next week. Military &#8220;gun oils&#8221; are often  a much more complex brew than sewing-machine oil.</p>
<p>This water and oil regime works well on AKs and SKS&#8217;s firing any ammo. DO NOT neglect all of the components in the gas system; piston, spring, cylinder, regulator, etc. At the very least, hose out the bore and ALL working parts with one of the good commercial corrosion-inhibiting &#8220;oils&#8221;, before packing the gun away for travel home. As soon as possible after arriving home, strip and thoroughly clean  and put away in the usual secure place, away from temperature changes. </p>
<p>&#8220;Windex&#8221; and similar products are to be used only as a last resort and then only until PROPER cleaning materials are available. </p>
<p>Simple rule: Treat ALL ammo as corrosive, clean with that in mind and your guns will last a LOT longer. Good cleaning gear and timely use thereof, is a LOT cheaper than re-barrelling or rebuilding a rifle.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: GG</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/comment-page-1/#comment-54603</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[GG]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 03 Mar 2018 16:05:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=54322#comment-54603</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[No good reason to use the junk in the first place.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>No good reason to use the junk in the first place.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: neil ewing</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/comment-page-1/#comment-49055</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[neil ewing]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Oct 2015 18:32:54 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=54322#comment-49055</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[GO TO YOUR SURPLUS STORE AND GET SOME G.I. BORE CLEANER.IT IS CHEAP AND IT WORKS!!!   NEIL]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>GO TO YOUR SURPLUS STORE AND GET SOME G.I. BORE CLEANER.IT IS CHEAP AND IT WORKS!!!   NEIL</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Matt Doherty</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/comment-page-1/#comment-49042</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Matt Doherty]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Oct 2015 02:38:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=54322#comment-49042</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Its pretty easy when you just stay away from junk ammo.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Its pretty easy when you just stay away from junk ammo.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Gun Lover Boyd</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/03/tech-tip-coping-with-corrosive-ammo/comment-page-1/#comment-47120</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Gun Lover Boyd]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 17 Mar 2015 01:10:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/?p=54322#comment-47120</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[That image of the AK74 bolt assembly after shooting corrosive ammo is terrible. I won&#039;t let that happen to my gun that is why I always make sure I have gun maintenance periodically.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>That image of the AK74 bolt assembly after shooting corrosive ammo is terrible. I won&#8217;t let that happen to my gun that is why I always make sure I have gun maintenance periodically.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
