Comments on: Safety Tip for Loading With Coated Bullets

By: Victoria Addington

Victoria Addington — Tue, 07 Mar 2023 09:36:08 +0000

I was captivated when you mentioned that coating bullets with a friction-reducing compound can reduce barrel heat. My friend wants to get their barrel coated. I should advise him to turn to a company that specializes in barrel coating.

By: David Lawson

David Lawson — Tue, 29 Oct 2019 21:54:47 +0000

I have tried shooting with moly and have gone back to shooting without it.
It is the same with barrel tuners, the only improvement is in the shooter’s mind. A match grade barrel, action, and good stock cannot be improved upon.

By: Paul

Paul — Tue, 29 Oct 2019 10:32:25 +0000

Interesting process Kent. Thanks for sharing.

By: Kent

Kent — Sat, 29 Sep 2018 22:19:44 +0000

Shooting 12+ coated bullets to ‘season’ the barrel is the hard way to go. There is a better, quicker way I have been using for over 25 years with success.

Take a Parker Hale jag (J.Dewey) and wrap a cotton patch to get an extra tight bore fit and force it through a CLEAN bore first using only BC Gun Scrubber. Repeat, if it’s not TIGHT. Next, saturate the jag with a 30/70 solution of moly powder and Shooter’s Choice #7, swab the bore with it, and shoot a coated bullet. One is all it takes and the bore is ‘seasoned’ with moly.

CAUTION: This method is time critical, you have to quickly shake, saturate, swab, and shoot without ANY delay.
1)Make sure the the solution is thoroughly shaken, not stirred.
2)Saturate the patch and immediately start swabbing back-and-forth 4-5 times. Don’t let the swab exit the muzzle or you will not be able to pull it back.
3)Clean out the chamber, then load and shoot the coated round, PRONTO!. That round should be within arms reach. The idea is not to let the solution ‘puddle’.

Like I said, I’ve been doing the above for years. And if I follow my directions to the letter, there will not be any problems.

By: Kent

Kent — Sat, 29 Sep 2018 21:31:30 +0000

Shooting 12+ coated bullets to ‘season’ the barrel is the hard way to go. There is a better, quicker way I have been using for over 25 years with success.

Take a Parker Hale jag (J.Dewey) and wrap a cotton patch to get an extra tight bore fit and force it through a CLEAN bore first using only BC Gun Scrubber. Repeat, if it not TIGHT. Next, saturate the jag with a 30/70 solution of moly powder and Shooter’s Choice #7, swab the bore with it, and shoot a coated bullet. One is all it takes and the bore is ‘seasoned’ with moly.

CAUTION: This method is time critical, you have to quickly shake, coat, swab, and shoot without ANY delay.
1)Make sure the the solution is thoroughly shaken, not stirred.
2)Saturate the patch and immediately start swabbing back-and-forth 4-5 times. Don’t let the swab exit the muzzle or you will not be able to pull it back.
3)Clean out the chamber, then load and shoot the coated round, PRONTO!. That round should be within arms reach. The idea is not to let the solution ‘puddle’.

Like I said, I’ve been doing the above for years. And if I follow my directions to the letter, there will not be any problems.

By: Bruce

Bruce — Tue, 06 Mar 2018 03:40:30 +0000

When I changed from “conventionally” lubed bullets to polymer-coated ones in my old S&W Model 52 wadcutter wonder, without changing the propellant load, I learned an interesting lesson.

The gun fouled up so badly with un-burnt powder that it basically stopped in the middle of a 90 round match.

The coated bullets were starting to move forward VERY early, probably on ignition of the primer. This, of course greatly expanded the volume in which the minuscule amount of powder was burning AND decreased the starting pressure to the point that ignition could not be sustained.

Solution?

NOT more powder, but a slightly FASTER one AND a slightly deeper roll-crimp at the front of the case. Eventually off-loaded it and bought a 1911.