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	<title>Comments on: How to Prep Mil-Surp 5.56 Lake City Brass &#8212; Save Money</title>
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		<title>By: Bruce</title>
		<link>https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2021/06/how-to-prep-mil-surp-5-56-lake-city-brass-save-money/comment-page-1/#comment-59771</link>
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Bruce]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Jun 2021 03:55:51 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description><![CDATA[One way to reduce wear on your expensive small-base dies is to use a dedicated separate decapping die.

This keeps primer &quot;grit&quot; well away from resizing dies. The really dedicated can use this die in an old &quot;loose&quot; press (not TOO loose) so that any crud that falls out does not accumulate in your &quot;good&#039; press frame, ram and lever pivots.

Once the &quot;raw&quot; brass is deprimed, washed and dried, de-crimp the primer pockets. I am a big fan of the Dillon 600 for robustness and repeatability.

FLS and then check overall length. Brass that has expanded more in firing (sloppy &quot;mi-spec&quot; chambers and headspace , especially in SAWs, mean that expansion has to go somewhere during resizing, and it goes FORWARD. ALWAYS gauge OAL.

Trim to the desired length (Powered trimmers are a godsend)

Inside and outside chamfer as desired and THEN do the pin-polish thing. Finally, rinse in distilled water to remove chemical residues, shake off the excess water and sun or LOW oven dry..

A lot of &quot;drama&quot;? Yes. However you will have quality brass that will handle a fair bit of re-use (especially if you anneal after every few cycles). And keep checking OAL and trimming accordingly.

The pressures that can develop with over-length brass in &quot;match&quot; chambers can disassemble your rifle with nary a screwdriver or pin-punch in sight.]]></description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One way to reduce wear on your expensive small-base dies is to use a dedicated separate decapping die.</p>
<p>This keeps primer &#8220;grit&#8221; well away from resizing dies. The really dedicated can use this die in an old &#8220;loose&#8221; press (not TOO loose) so that any crud that falls out does not accumulate in your &#8220;good&#8217; press frame, ram and lever pivots.</p>
<p>Once the &#8220;raw&#8221; brass is deprimed, washed and dried, de-crimp the primer pockets. I am a big fan of the Dillon 600 for robustness and repeatability.</p>
<p>FLS and then check overall length. Brass that has expanded more in firing (sloppy &#8220;mi-spec&#8221; chambers and headspace , especially in SAWs, mean that expansion has to go somewhere during resizing, and it goes FORWARD. ALWAYS gauge OAL.</p>
<p>Trim to the desired length (Powered trimmers are a godsend)</p>
<p>Inside and outside chamfer as desired and THEN do the pin-polish thing. Finally, rinse in distilled water to remove chemical residues, shake off the excess water and sun or LOW oven dry..</p>
<p>A lot of &#8220;drama&#8221;? Yes. However you will have quality brass that will handle a fair bit of re-use (especially if you anneal after every few cycles). And keep checking OAL and trimming accordingly.</p>
<p>The pressures that can develop with over-length brass in &#8220;match&#8221; chambers can disassemble your rifle with nary a screwdriver or pin-punch in sight.</p>
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