Lube Choices for Case Sizing — Reviewing the Options
Sinclair International has a good article on Case Lubrication which shows the various products and application methods available. Part of Sinclair’s Step-By-Step Reloading series, the article shows how to apply Spray Lube, Die Wax, or conventional lube from a Pad. The story also explains how to use dry lube to slick up the inside of your case necks.
Spray Lubes
High-volume reloaders often turn to spray-on lubricants such as the RCBS Case Slick (#749-001-341) or the Hornady One Shot (#749-001-065) to quickly lubricate large numbers of cases at once. An indispensable piece of gear that helps make spray lubing easy is a lube rack (#749-011-550) — a polymer block that holds cases upright and arranged to maximize their exposure to the spray.
Editor’s Note: Ballistol Aerosol is other good spray product for regular full-length sizing (not heavy case-forming). It goes on clear (no chalky residue), it is ultra-slippery, and it will remove the carbon from your case necks as you apply Ballistol with a patch. This is my primary spray lube — but many folks dislike the distinctive Ballistol smell. Try before you buy.
Sizing Die Wax
Over the years, many benchrest shooters have come to trust Imperial Sizing Die Wax (#749-001-052) for their case lube needs. It offers high lubricity and easily wipes off with a paper towel. In fact, its lubricity makes it a popular choice for case forming, for those wildcat folks who need to form their own unique or obsolete cartridges. Unlike lube pads or spray lubes, sizing wax is applied more naturally. You just put a little on your fingers and transfer it to the cases by handling them. As simple and easy as Imperial Sizing Die Wax is to use, it’s probably best for low-volume applications.
Dry Lubricant
Redding’s Imperial Application Media (#749-001-166) is a dry neck lube used to lube the inside of the neck, whether you’re full-length sizing or neck-sizing only. It consists of ceramic spheres coated with a fine graphite-based powder. You simply dip the neck into the container for a second to pick up the right amount of lube. This lube enables the expander ball to work smoothly throughout the case neck –instead of “grabbing” or “chattering” — to minimize case neck stretching.
Story Tip from EdLongrange. We welcome reader submissions.Editor’s Note: Dry Lube is also very useful if you ultrasonically clean your cases. After the ultrasound process, the inside of the case neck can be so “squeaky clean” that bullets don’t seat smoothly. A quick application of dry lube will help bullets slide into the neck easier and the neck “grip” on the bullets should be more consistent from round-to-round. Consistent neck tension is key to accuracy and uniform velocities.
Similar Posts:
- Sinclair Int’l Guide to Cartridge Case Lubrication
- Guide to Case Lubricants — Spray, Liquid, Wax, and Dry Lube
- Recommended Lubes for Case Sizing and Neck-Turning
- Try Ballistol Lube for Case Sizing, STP for Neck Turning
- Lubrication Products for Case Sizing and Neck Turning
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Tags: Imperial, Lube, Lubrication, One-Shot, Reloading
Just an aside . . . .
Have any of you tried mink oil? Has to be the pure stuff, no silicone. After having used it for about 15 years I’m sold. Goes on like die wax, wipes off well and I’ve never stuck a case with it.
BTW, I’m still using the first container.
I don’t see how to use graphite for inside the neck and something sticky for the outside without it getting mixed together and crapping up the inside of the neck requiring manual cleaning.
I have the same question as Lee M. Is graphite just for neck sizing?
i like water solvents, like rcbs’s. they are just more clean…
Use the dry lube for inside of the necks first, then the Imperial wax on the outside. Size/decap and put the cases in the vibrator to clean. Trim after that.
TA
I have switched lube type do to incorporating wet tumbling as a step in reloading. I found dish soap worked for lubing the outside of the cases. Dish soap is thick enough to stay on the case during FL sizing and it is the ultimate water soluble lube when run through a 20-25 min wet tumbling cycle.
I liked the Hornady one shot when it was available in a pump spray container. When they went to a pressurized can I went somewhere else. I settled on the pump spray sold by Dillon. An 8 oz. spray bottle is $8.95.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-synthetic-case-lube-8oz-bottle_8_8_26518.html
For bulk work I drop the cases into a stainless bowl, spray, agitate with my fingers, spray again and agitate again. Let them sit for 5-10 minutes before sizing. Wash the residue off with soapy water.
I’m partial to sprays like Dillon but I do so in a 1 gallon Ziploc. Zip it shut after spraying and roll around and massage. No fumes and no mess. Save the bag for the next go. I then dip the necks in dry moly on the way to the sizer. I find less runout the better I lube things. I tumble in stainless and anneal before and then I vibrate in liquid auto wax treated dry media before priming and loading. That cleans residual lube but also shines, protects and prevents bullet/neck weld/reaction.
Royal case and die lube id the best ive ever used and ive used many. Never a stuck case or shoulder dent