Burris Signature Rings with polymer inserts are an excellent product. The inserts allow you to clamp your scope securely without ring marks. Moreover, using the matched offset inserts you can “pre-load” your scope to add additional elevation. This helps keep the scope centered in its elevation range while shooting at long range. Additionally, with a -20 insert set in the front and a +20 insert set in the rear, you may be able to zero at very long ranges without using an angled scope base — and that can save money. (To move your point of impact upwards, you lower the front of the scope relative to the bore axis, while raising the rear of the scope.)
Insert Elevation Values and Ring Spacing
People are sometimes confused when they employ the Burris inserts. The inset numbers (-10, +10, -20, +20 etc.) refer to hundredths of inch shim values, rather than to MOA. And you need the correct, matched top/bottom pair of inserts to give you the marked thousandth value. Importantly, the actual amount of elevation you get with Burris inserts will depend BOTH on the insert value AND the spacing between ring centers.
Forum member Gunamonth has explained this in our Shooters’ Forum:
Working with Burris Signature Rings
Burris inserts are [marked] in thousandths of an inch, not MOA. To know how many MOA you gain you also need to know the ring spacing. For example, with a -20 thou insert set in the front and a +20 thou insert set in the rear, if the ring spacing is 6″, the elevation change will be approximately +24 MOA upwards.
Here’s how we calculate that. If you have a 2 X 0.020″ “lift” over a distance of 6 inches (i.e. 0.040″ total offset at 0.5 feet) that’s equivalent to 0.080″ “lift” over 12 inches (one foot). There are 300 feet in 100 yards so we multiply 0.080″ X 300 and get 24″ for the total elevation increase at 100 yard. (Note: One inch at 100 yards isn’t exactly a MOA but it’s fairly close.)
Here’s a formula, with all units in inches:
Total Ring Offset
——————– X 3600 = Change @ 100 yards
Ring Spacing
(.020 + .020)
—————– X 3600 = 24 inches at 100 yards
Ring Spacing: 6 inches
NOTE: Using the above formula, the only time the marked insert offset will equal the actual MOA shift is when the center to center ring spacing is 3.60″. Of course, you are not required to use 3.60″ spacing, but if you have a different spacing your elevation “lift” will be more or less than the values on the inserts.
Many guys getting started in long range shooting are confused about what kind of scope they should buy — specifically whether it should have MIL-based clicks or MOA-based clicks. Before you can make that decision, you need to understand the terminology. This article, with a video by Bryan Litz, explains MILS and MOA so you can choose the right type of scope for your intended application.
You probably know that MOA stands for “Minute of Angle” (or more precisely “minute of arc”), but could you define the terms “Milrad” or “MIL”? In a helpful video, Bryan Litz of Applied Ballitics explains MOA and MILs (short for “milliradians”). Bryan defines those terms and explains how they are used. One MOA is an angular measurement (1/60th of one degree) that subtends 1.047″ at 100 yards. One MIL (i.e. one milliradian) subtends 1/10th meter at 100 meters; that means that 0.1 Mil is one centimeter (1 cm) at 100 meters. Is one angular measurement system better than another? Not necessarily… Bryan explains that Mildot scopes may be handy for ranging, but scopes with MOA-based clicks work just fine for precision work at known distances. Also because one MOA is almost exactly one inch at 100 yards, the MOA system is convenient for expressing a rifle’s accuracy. By common parlance, a “half-MOA” rifle can shoot groups that are 1/2-inch (or smaller) at 100 yards.
What is a “Minute” of Angle?
When talking about angular degrees, a “minute” is simply 1/60th. So a “Minute of Angle” is simply 1/60th of one degree of a central angle, measured either up and down (for elevation) or side to side (for windage). At 100 yards, 1 MOA equals 1.047″ on the target. This is often rounded to one inch for simplicity. Say, for example, you click up 1 MOA (four clicks on a 1/4-MOA scope). That is roughly 1 inch at 100 yards, or roughly 4 inches at 400 yards, since the target area measured by an MOA subtension increases with the distance.
MIL vs. MOA for Target Ranging
MIL or MOA — which angular measuring system is better for target ranging (and hold-offs)? In a recent article on his PrecisionRifleBlog.com website, Cal Zant tackles that question. Analyzing the pros and cons of each, Zant concludes that both systems work well, provided you have compatible click values on your scope. Zant does note that a 1/4 MOA division is “slightly more precise” than 1/10th mil, but that’s really not a big deal: “Technically, 1/4 MOA clicks provide a little finer adjustments than 1/10 MIL. This difference is very slight… it only equates to 0.1″ difference in adjustments at 100 yards or 1″ at 1,000 yards[.]” Zant adds that, in practical terms, both 1/4-MOA clicks and 1/10th-MIL clicks work well in the field: “Most shooters agree that 1/4 MOA or 1/10 MIL are both right around that sweet spot.”
Do you find that the crosshairs in your scope get blurry after a while, or that you experience eye strain during a match? This is normal, particularly as you get older. Focusing intensely on your target (through the scope or over iron sights) for an extended period of time can cause eye strain. Thankfully, there are things you can do to reduce eye fatigue. For one — breathe deeper to take in more oxygen. Secondly, give your eyes a break between shots, looking away from the scope or sights.
In our Forum there is an interesting thread about vision and eye fatigue. One Forum member observed: “I have noticed recently that if I linger on the target for too long the crosshairs begin to blur and the whole image gradually darkens as if a cloud passed over the sun. I do wear contacts and wonder if that’s the problem. Anyone else experienced this? — Tommy”
Forum members advised Tommy to relax and breath deep. Increase oxygen intake and also move the eyes off the target for a bit. Closing the eyes briefly between shots can also relieve eye strain. Tommy found this improved the situation.
Keith G. noted: “Make sure you are still breathing… [your condition] sounds similar to the symptoms of holding one’s breath.”
Phil H. explained: “Tom — Our eyes are tremendous oxygen hogs. What you are witnessing is caused by lack of oxygen. When this happens, get off the sights, stare at the grass (most people’s eyes find the color green relaxing), breath, then get back on the rifle. Working on your cardio can help immensely. Worked for me when I shot Palma. Those aperture sights were a bear! The better my cardio got the better and longer I could see. Same thing with scopes. Try it!”
Watercam concurred: “+1 on breathing. Take a long slow deep breath, exhale and break shot. Also make sure you take a moment to look at the horizon without looking through rifle or spotting scope once in a while to fight fatigue. Same thing happens when using iron sights.”
Arizona shooter Scott Harris offered this advice: “To some extent, [blurring vision] happens to anyone staring at something for a long time. I try to keep vision crisp by getting the shot off in a timely fashion or close the eyes briefly to refresh them. Also keep moisturized and protect against wind with wrap-around glasses”.
Breathing Better and Relaxing the Eyes Really Worked…
Tommy, the shooter with the eye problem, said his vision improved after he worked on his breathing and gave his eyes a rest between shots: “Thanks guys. These techniques shrunk my group just a bit and every little bit helps.”
Read more tips on reducing eye fatigue in our Forum Thread: That Vision Thing.
To avoid eye fatigue, take your eyes away from the scope between shots, and look at something nearby (or even close your eyes briefly). Also work on your breathing and don’t hold your breath too long — that robs your system of oxygen.
A good riflescope is essential for many types of competition, and the vast majority of hunters have scoped rifles. Some F-Class and benchrest competitors are now using optics with up to 60X magnification. Over the past 30 years, scopes have continued to evolve with improved glass, more reticle types, vastly increased elevation travel, bigger main tubes, FFP and SFP options, and even built-in electronics.
When shopping for a riflescope, it’s useful to understand how scopes work — how the internal mechanisms control windage and elevation, how parallax controls work, and how magnification levels are controlled.
Basics of How Riflescopes Work
This Burris video (above) covers the key aspects of scope function: zoom magnification, windage control, elevation control, parallax control (front or side mount), and ocular lens focus. There are some tips on getting a new scope running smoothly — it’s wise to rotate the power control a few times as well as both windage and elevation knobs. The video below also explains how to set ocular focus controls optimally.
Scope Break-In Methods and Diagnosing Issues — Great Video
We recommend that all serious shooters watch this video start to finish. A very knowledgeable scope engineer, Leupold’s Mike Baccellieri, explains the fine details of scope operation — with very useful recommendations on how to ready a new scope for use (See 36:50 time-mark). With a new optic he advises to run the controls multiple times to full travel. Also, take your time to get the diopter control just right (See 26:40 time-mark).
The video also explains why, with a new scope or one that hasn’t been used much, it is sometimes effective to rotate the elevation PAST the desired setting then come back a click (See 35:40 time-mark). In addition, near the end of the video, the expert explains how you can use a mirror to determine if the scope mount (base and/or rings) is NOT aligned with the bore axis, forcing excess travel to get on target (See 42:00 time-mark). We have seen this caused by scope rails attached slightly off axis.
Large diameter turrets make windage and elevation markings easier to see, and the click “feel” may be more noticeable given the greater diametrical travel between clicks.
First Focal Plane (FFP) vs. Second Focal Plane (SFP)
The main visual difference between First Focal Plane (FFP) and Second Focal Plane (SFP) scopes is the appearance of the reticle (and its hash marks) at different magnification levels. With a FFP scope, the reticle increases in visible size (and line thickness) with increased magnification. This is so the angular hash marks remain constant (in Mils or MOA angular span) at all magnification levels. So, on a 10-30X FFP scope, a 0.1 Mil hash mark represents the SAME angular measurement at 10X, 20X, or 30X (or any magnification). The downside of the FFP system is that the reticle lines can appear very thick at high magnification. But for a PRS/NRL match, with targets at multiple distances, it is important that the hash marks represent the same angular measurement at all power settings.
On a Second Focal Plane (SFP) scope, by contrast, the reticle lines (and hash marks) appear visually (in thickness) the same at all magnification levels. This means the hash mark divisions will only be precise at one magnification level, as designed by the manufacturer. For example, you could have exact 1 MOA Hash marks at 10X. But zoom the scope to 20X and the same reticle hash mark would then cover 2 MOA. SFP scopes are popular with competition shooters who shoot at specific known distances. Not having thick reticle lines at 25X to 50X is an advantage when aiming at precise benchrest and F-Class targets.
ZEISS now makes excellent FFP Scopes with both MOA and Milrad options
Minute of Angle (MOA) vs. Milliradian (MILRAD or MIL)
This video also explains MOA vs. MRAD (Milliradian) controls. A Minute of Angle (MOA) is an angular measurement that represents 1.047″ at 100 yards. Modern MOA scopes are typically configured with 1/4 MOA or 1/8 MOA clicks. A Milliradian (MRAD) is another angular measurement defined as one-thousandth of a radian. Milrad scopes are commonly configured with 0.1 Milrad clicks. How much is a 0.1 mil at 100 yards? One mil equals 3.6 inches at 100 yards; therefore, 1/10th of that, 0.1 Mil, equals 0.36” – roughly a third of an inch – at 100 yards. That’s pretty close to the common quarter-inch (1/4 MOA) increment found on MOA riflescopes.
Sightron makes excellent high-magnification SFP zoom scopes favored by many competitors. These have proven quite reliable and offer very good performance for the price.
Scope Mounting Method and Alignment
When mounting a scope, you want to make sure the scope is aligned properly, so that vertical travel is precisely up and down, not offset. Begin by supporting the rifle with a good front and rear rest. Use a portable level to ensure the rifle is not tilting slightly left or right around the barrel bore axis. Then you want to align your scope’s vertical axis. For this, we recommend setting up a plumb bob — a weighted line that hangs straight down. This can be set up indoors or outdoors. Align your reticle’s vertical axis precisely with the plumb bob line, making sure not to move the rifle.
One caution — we have seen some riflescopes that are internally off-axis by up to 4 degrees. In this case, you can align the reticle’s vertical axis with the plumb bob line but then find that your turrets are slightly titled. That is a scope manufacturing fault that will result in some error when you input a large click value (e.g. 10+ MOA up or down).
When mounting your scope, a key factor to consider is the eye relief — the distance of the rear “ocular” lens to your eye. When mounting the scope, put your head in the position at which you normally shoot. NOTE: As your optimal head position may be quite a bit different when shooting prone vs. shooting from a bench, you may want to adjust the scope placement for different shooting positions. This Editor had to move his comp rifle scope about an inch rearward when local club matches changed from prone to bench.
In a helpful NSSF video, Ryan Cleckner explains why you normally should avoid canting your rifle — rotating it clockwise or counter-clockwise. Cleckner explains that canting the rifle in one direction or another will change the point of impact: “When you rotate the rifle, not only does the [POI move] in the direction that you’re rotated, [but] it also loses some of its elevation as it rolls down.” This, Cleckner explains, can make you miss on one side or the other:
Cant to the Left — You’re going to miss low and left.
Cant to the Right — You’re going to miss low and right.
In this video, starting at the one-minute mark, Cleckner shows the effect of rifle canting when engaging a 600-yard target. A few degrees of cant (either to the left or to the right), moves the shot POI completely off the steel silhouette target. The POI change occurs mainly because you are lowering (and laterally shifting) the scope sight-line relative to the bore axis, effectively changing your zero.
David Tubb has explained: “Every 1 degree you are off on a cant, is about six inches of difference laterally at 1000 yards”.
Position Shooting with Sling — Rifle Cant Considerations
Cleckner’s discussion assumes that the scope or sights are set to hit center with the rifle level and plumb. That works for most situations when shooting prone off bipod, front mechanical rest, or front sandbag. However, many sling shooters, including David Tubb and John Whidden, do tilt or cant their rifles slightly inward because this allows a more comfortable hold with sling, or allows better eye-to-sight alignment. Holding the rifle at an angle can work — but the angle of cant must be consistent for every shot. Canting the rifle is not a sin by itself. However, after you confirm your zero on your target, the degree of cant must be the same for EVERY shot. You must maintain that exact same degree of rotation on each shot or you will experience the shot POI movement Cleckner illustrates. Consistency is the key.
John Whidden, 5-time Nat’l Long Range Champion, holds a Palma rifle. John now shoots a match rifle with an Anschutz stock which he holds more upright, but still with some counter-clockwise cant. John also installed his iron sights at an angle so that the adjustments are correct (and plumb) even with his canted hold: “While it may not be obvious in the picture, the sights on my rifle are set up so that they’re straight vertical and horizontal while I hold the rifle canted. Making sure your adjustments (scope or sights) are vertical and horizontal is a critical piece of the pie.”
Inexpensive 30mm and 1″ Scope-Mounted Bubble Levels
The best way to avoid inconsistent rifle canting is to use a bubble level fitted to rail or scope. One very affordable product is the CVLIFE Scope Bubble Level. This features a 30mm milled inside diameter with a handy hinge to simplify mounting. This unit installs easily, the level is nicely elevated, and user reviews have been very positive. You could easily pay $40.00 or more for a 30mm scope level. This costs just $15.99 on Amazon. If you have a 1″ scope tube, consider the SME dual-diameter level. This fits 30mm tubes PLUS has an insert to fit 1″ tubes. It’s $22.99 at MidwayUSA.
Hunting season is underway now in many states. That means it’s time to inspect all your hunting gear, including your scope set-up. If you have a new optic, you’ll want to get it mounted correctly on your current rig. And if you have a new hunting rifle, you’ll need to mount the properly rings and install the riflescope so that you have the correct eye relief.
A proper scope installation involves more than just tensioning a set of rings — you need to consider the proper eye relief and head position, and it should be leveled correctly. This video shows a simple, quick method to mount a scope. The method assumes that the reticle (cross-hairs) are square without the turret. You’ll want to confirm that with a plumb line hanging straight down, a procedure you can do indoors.
In this NSSF video, Ryan Cleckner shows how to set up a scope on a hunting or tactical rifle. Ryan, a former U.S. Army Sniper Instructor, notes that many hunters spend a small fortune on equipment, but fail to set up their rifle to use the optics optimally. Cleckner likens this to someone who owns an expensive sports car, but never adjusts the seat or the mirrors.
Ryan notes that you want your head and neck to be able to rest naturally on the stock, without straining. You head should rest comfortably on the stock. If you have to consciously lift your head off the stock to see through the scope, then your set-up isn’t correct. Likewise, You shouldn’t have to push your head forward or pull it back to see a clear image through the scope. If you need to strain forward or pull back to get correct eye relief, then the scope’s fore/aft position in the rings needs to be altered. Watch the full video for more tips.
Tips on Mounting Your Scope and Adjusting Your Comb Height:
1. Normally, you want your scope mounted as low as possible, while allowing sufficient clearance for the front objective. (NOTE: Benchrest shooters may prefer a high mount for a variety of reasons.)
2. Once the scope height is set, you need to get your head to the correct level. This may require adding an accessory cheekpad, or raising the comb height if your rifle has an adjustable cheekpiece.
3. Start with the rifle in the position you use most often (standing, kneeling, or prone). If you shoot mostly prone, you need to get down on the ground. Close your eyes, and let you head rest naturally on the stock. Then open your eyes, and see if you are too low or too high. You may need to use a cheekpad to get your head higher on the stock.
4. If your scope has a flat on the bottom of the turret housing, this will help you level your scope. Just find a flat piece of metal that slides easily between the bottom of the scope and the rail. Slide that metal piece under the scope and then tilt it up so the flat on the bottom of the scope aligns parallel with the flats on the rail. Watch the video at 8:40 to see how this is done.
Based on its external appearance, a modern riflescope may seem simple. It’s just a tube with two or three knobs on the outside right? Well, looks can be deceiving. Modern variable focal-length optics are complex systems with lots of internal parts. Modern scopes, even ‘budget’ optics, use multiple lens elements to allow variable magnification levels and parallax adjustment.
A few seasons back, we had a chance to look inside a riflescope thanks to a product display from ATK, now called Vista Outdoor, parent of Alliant Powder, CCI, Federal, RCBS, Speer, Weaver Optics. The Weaver engineers sliced open a Weaver Super Slam scope so you can see the internal lens elements plus the elevation and windage controls. We thought readers would like to see the “inner workings” of a typical modern rifle scope, so we snapped some pictures. The sectioned Super Slam scope was mounted inside a Plexiglas case, making it a bit hard to get super-sharp images, but you can still see the multiple lenses and the complex windage and elevation controls.
Check out the details of the focusing and magnification rings near the ocular (eyeball) end of the scope. There is very fine machining and threading to make everything work properly. The ocular lens is the piece of glass that faces the shooter while he aims.
With the price of premium scopes approaching $3400.00 (and beyond), it’s more important than ever to provide extra protection for your expensive optics. ScopeCoat produces covers that shield scopes with a layer of neoprene rubber (wetsuit material) sandwiched between nylon. In addition to its basic covers, sold in a variety of sizes and colors, ScopeCoat has a line of heavy-duty 6mm-thick XP-6 covers that provide added security. CLICK HERE to review the full line of ScopeCoats on Amazon.
Triple-Thickness XP-6 Model for Added Protection
The XP-6 Flak Jacket™ is specifically designed for extra protection and durability. The 6mm-thick layer of neoprene is three times thicker than the standard ScopeCoat. XP-6 Flak Jackets are designed for tall turrets, with sizes that accommodate either two or three adjustment knobs (for both side-focus and front-focus parallax models). To shield an expensive NightForce, March, or Schmidt & Bender scope, this a good choice. XP-6 covers come in black color only, and are available for both rifle-scopes and spotting scopes.
The heavily padded XP-6 Flak Jacket is also offered in a Zippered version, shown at right. This is designed for removable optics that need protection when in storage. The full-length, zippered closure goes on quick-and-easy and provides more complete protection against dust, shock, and moisture. The line of XP-6 Scope Covers run $30 – $40 on Amazon.
Special Covers for Binoculars and Red-Dots
ScopeCoat offers many specialized products, including oversize covers for spotting scopes, protective “Bino-Bibs” for binoculars, rangefinder covers, even sleeves for small pistol scopes and red-dot optics. There are also custom-designed covers for the popular Eotech and Trijicon tactical optics.
Keith Glasscock is one of America’s greatest F-Class shooters and one of highly respected wind coach. A High Master, Keith finished second overall at the 2021 NRA F-Class Long Range Championship in F-Open division. He also finished second at the 2020 F-Open Nationals, and second at the 2019 F-Open Nationals. His consistency is unrivaled, which means he definitely knows the secrets of competition shooting and loading ultra-accurate ammo. In recent seasons, Keith has started PRS/NRL competition, bringing his impressive shooting skills to those popular tactical disciplines.
Keith has a great YouTube Channel with multiple new video releases every month. On Keith’s Winning in the Wind channel, Keith offers 265+ informative videos on a wide range of topics including wind reading, reloading, component selection, load development, and training.
For today’s Saturday Video Showcase, we offer nine of our favorite Keith Glasscock videos. These cover many key topics — ballistics, barrel care, gunsmithing, bullet sorting, reloading, maintenance and more. Each video has important points that can benefit any competitive rifle shooter, whether you shoot in local 100-yard fun matches or compete at the National Level in F-Class, LR Benchrest, Palma, High Power, or PRS/NRL.
Top 10 Methods to Improve Your Shooting Accuracy
To shoot top scores, you need great skills and great hardware. This video covers 10 things that can improve accuracy, starting with the most important. The #1 item, notes Keith, is rifle shooting skill — you need to be able to hold on target properly and run the rifle consistently shot after shot. The second most important thing is an accurate rifle — you need a rifle with an excellent barrel, quality components, and top-tier inherent accuracy. Third, you need very accurate ammo, and this means you need to perfect your reloading skills. You need precise powder measurement and good, consistent bullet seating. Fourth in the list is related to ammo — you need the ability to do effective load development to pick the best load for your particular barrel. Number 5 is the “right bullet”. You need a high-quality, ultra-consistent bullet that is a good match for your particular barrel and discipline. Watch the video for the other five items.
Wind Direction vs. Wind Speed — Which is More Important
Most shooters find wind reading somewhat intimidating. That is understandable. The wind can change constantly during a match, with variations in both wind velocity and angles. Sometimes you think you have a cycle figured out, but then there can be an unexpected lull. Or you may start a string in what you think is a stable condition, but then a surprise shift changes everything. In addition, wind flows can be influenced by terrain features, such as berms, which have varying effects depending on wind angle (e.g. a tailwind hitting a berm will act differently than a 90-deg crosswind). That is why a good wind reader needs to identify both the wind speed AND the wind angle. In this video, Keith explains when to focus primarily on direction and when to pay most attention to velocity. With headwinds and tailwinds, Keith notes, you should monitor angle changes carefully. With crosswinds, speed is the key variable to watch.
KEY Points to Remember
— Small changes in wind direction changes alter POI drastically at long range
— During head or tailwinds, focus on wind direction
— During crosswinds, focus more on wind speed
— The wind is cyclic — always be aware of the pattern
Reloading for PRS/NRL vs. F-Class
Keith Glasscock is one of the very few PRS/NRL competitors who has shot F-Class at the very highest level, finishing second three times in F-Class National Championships. PRS/NRL and F-Class are very different disciplines with different challenges. F-Class is shot prone with time between shots and target distances from 600 to 1000 yards. In PRS/NRL competition, you are shooting from multiple positions, at many distances from 100 yards on out, with fast follow-up shoots. For F-Open, you want an extremely accurate load that can deliver sub-quarter MOA groups at 200 yards. For PRS/NRL you don’t necessarily need that level of accuracy (though it helps). But you also need a load that is very consistent, has relatively low recoil, but can also provide sufficient impact energy to clearly show a hit on distant steel. In this video, Keith Glasscock explains his reloading objectives for the two disciplines.
How to Find (and Fine-Tune) Seating Depth
This is Keith’s most popular video, with 295,000 views on YouTube. Keith definitely knows how to maximize accuracy by finding the optimal seating depth for each particular barrel. He is achieving groups in the high Ones for three shots. That would be good for a short-range benchrest cartridge, but Keith is achieving that with a .284 Winchester which has much more recoil. If you shoot F-TR or F-Open or even PRS, you should watch this video.
How to Remove Carbon Build-Up in Barrels
Hard carbon is the bane of rifle shooters. Hard carbon build-up in the barrel can adversely affect accuracy, and in extreme cases, can lead to increased pressure. If possible, you should clean your barrel(s) soon after a match (or shooting session) before the carbon fully hardens. We’ve used Wipe-Out Foam right after a match (with an hour soak time) and that dramatically reduced the amount of brushing required. In this video Keith Glasscock explains the negatives of hard carbon in your barrel, and he discusses how to diagnose the problem and how to remove the carbon build-up efficiently.
Key Methods for Precision Load Development
Keith starts this video with this adage: “The best do the basics better.” He then explains how that applies to load development and achieving great accuracy. Your need to start with high-quality components then do every step of the reloading process — case prep, powder mesauring, bullet seating with precision. Keith then goes through his recommended process for developing an accurate load that will sustain accuracy throughout a match.
Recommended Barrel Break-In Methods
Barrel break-in is a controversial subject. With premium finish-lapped barrels from top manufacturers, some ace F-Class shooters get away with hardly no break-in — just shoot for score right from the get-go. On high-quality custom barrels, we’ve had success with minimalistic break-in with a few wet patches ever 3 rounds for the first 20 rounds. However, with relatively rough factory barrels, you may get better long-term results with a systematic break-in process, even using specialized products on your patches. In this video Keith Glasscock explains break-in procedures he’s found to work for various barrel types and applications.
What Counts More — ES or SD?
In general, we have gotten the best match results with loads showing an Extreme Spread (ES) under 13 FPS and an extremely low Standard Deviation (SD). We know that F-Class and ELR shooters competing at 1000 yards and beyond definitely want an extremely low ES to minimize vertical dispersion at long range. That said, some short-range Benchrest competitors look at group size more than ES/SD. In this video, Keith Glasscock talks about the reloading process and methods for lowering ES and SD. Proper brass prep is important, as is precise powder measuring. And long range shooters may want to test 3 or 4 different powder types to find the one that offers the best combination of accuracy and low ES/SD.
Sorting Bullets — Various Methods Compared
Should you sort your bullets? If so, should you sort by weight, OAL, base-to-ogive, or max diameter? Which factor? Well the answer is “it depends”. You need to carefully examine a couple dozen bullets from each batch to see how consistent they are. We had some Lapua bullets that were ultra-consistent with 97 out of 100 within .0015″ base to ogive length. We used those bullets unsorted to set a local range record at 600 yards. On the other hand if you find significant differences in weights, diameters, or bearing surface lengths, you probably should sort. One tip — many shooters do not consider the width difference in bullets. We have seen 6mm bullet diameters vary from 0.2428″ to 0.2436″. We have one 3-groove 6BR barrel that likes the skinny bullets and another 6-groove barrel that definitely prefers the fatter bullets.
Forum member Jacob spotted this simple, but effective set of scope ring inserts on the Brownells Website. With these inserts, you can use a scope with 1″-diameter main tube in 30mm rings. Non-marring, matte black Delrin sleeves surround the scope tube so it can fit larger-diameter rings. Each sleeve comes in two parts for easy installation around your scope tube. This way you can use the same 30mm rings for all your scopes.
Ring Reducers are sold as front/rear kits. Cost is $16.99 for the Delrin 30mm to 1″ converters, item 084-000-091WB. There are also sets that reduce 30mm rings to 26mm, and 1″ rings to 3/4″ or 7/8″.
Note: These Brownells units simply function as plastic bushings. Unlike Burris Signature Ring inserts, they do not allow you to “pre-load” windage or elevation. If your rings are misaligned, the Brownells Ring Reducers won’t correct that problem.
In this NSSF video, Ryan Cleckner shows how to set up a scope on a hunting or tactical rifle. Ryan, a former U.S. Army Sniper Instructor, notes that many hunters spend a small fortune on equipment, but fail to set up their rifle to use the optics optimally. Cleckner likens this to someone who owns an expensive sports car, but never adjusts the seat or the mirrors.
With the price of premium scopes approaching $3400.00 (and beyond), it’s more important than ever to provide extra protection for your expensive optics. 
The heavily padded XP-6 Flak Jacket is also offered in a Zippered version, shown at right. This is designed for removable optics that need protection when in storage. The full-length, zippered closure goes on quick-and-easy and provides more complete protection against dust, shock, and moisture. The line of XP-6 Scope Covers run 
Keith has a great 
