A while back our Aussie friend Stuart Elliot of BRT Shooters Supply filmed some interesting videos at the QTS range in Brisbane, Australia. Stuart told us: “I was shooting in an Air Gun Benchrest match here in Brisbane, Australia. I finished my target early and was awaiting the cease fire and took a short, slow-motion video of windflag behavior.” You may be surprised by the velocity changes and angle swings that occur, even over a relatively short distance (just 25 meters from bench to target).
Here are windflags in slow motion:
The flags show in the videos are “Aussie Wind Flags”, developed by Stuart Elliot. These are still produced in Australia, and are now available through BRTFlags.com.
Here is a video in real time:
Stuart says this video may surprise some shooters who don’t use windflags: “Many people say the wind doesn’t matter. Well it sure does — whether for an airgun at 25 meters or a long range centerfire at 1,000.” This video illustrates how much the wind can change direction and velocity even in a small area.
Introduction — What You Need in a Security Gun Safe
If you own firearms, you need a gun safe. In some states, such as California, if you don’t own a safe, you face potential liability if your firearms are stolen. Purchasing a safe is no easy decision however. There are dozens of safe manufacturers and countless design options. Sorting out the facts from the marketing claims can be difficult.
Today’s seven Saturday Showcase videos explain the most important qualities you should look for in a safe, and help you with the tough decisions, such as “Should I get a digital lock or a dial lock?”, “What kind of fire-proofing is most effective?”, “How big a safe do I really need?”, and “What interior works best with long-barreled scoped rifles?” You’ll find reviews of full-size safes, modular safes, and smaller handgun safes. Plus you’ll find expert advice on how to install your safe in your home and how to keep the contents free from rust.
Budget $1200-1500 for a safe from a major maker, with external hinges, and an interior at least 58″ high. That gives you room for 30″-barreled rifles with a top shelf for handguns and other valuables. A rotary rack and slide-out drawers are great additions.
Keypad or Dial? We favor rotary dial locks. With minimal maintenance they will function flawlessly for decades. But the digital locks offer quick-access and convenience. If you go digital, get a commercial-grade unit.
Fire-lining is worth getting, but a thin layer of sheet-rock doesn’t make a safe truly “fire-proof”.
Interior at least 58″ High and 30″ wide Overall Weight 750+ Pounds 8 Gauge or Heavier Wall Thickness Double-Wall, Composite Door with Relockers Minimum UL RSC Rated. TL-15 or TL-30 Rating is Desirable External Hinges
Mechanical UL Group II (or better) Lock with Standard Dial Or UL Type 1 Commercial-Grade Electronic Lock
Custom Interior Suitable for Scoped Guns with Long Barrels On-Door Storage System for Non-scoped Long Guns OR Rotary Gun Rack for Scoped Rifles and ARs
Internal (sandwiched) Insulator, Reinforced if Sheet-rock Palusol? Heat-Activated Expanding Door Seals
Slide-out Drawers for Handguns Fire-lined Inner Safe for Paper and Media
Low Gloss, Rust-resistant External Finish Pre-Drilled holes for Lag Bolts and in Rear for Electric Cord Overhead Fluorescent Lamp and/or LED Mini-lights on Strings
Advice for Gun Safe Buyers — Seven Key Things to Consider
This video covers key gun safe features — Seven Things to Consider Before Buying a Gun Safe. Not all gun safes are created equal. There are many variables — fire ratings, burglar ratings, colors, lock choices, internal capacity, door storage, and more. And with the recent controversy involving Liberty Safes, you should check the safe-maker’s policies regarding digital passcodes — you don’t want your passcode revealed without a warrant and/or without your consent.
DOs and DON’Ts of Safe Buying
DO purchase a safe that is bigger than you think you need.
Your gun collection is bound to grow over time. A good safe is more than just a gun locker–it becomes a secure storage device for your family’s other valuables as well. You’ll find you quickly fill up even a large safe. Spend the money for the size, protection, and features you want. Your gun collection may be worth many tens of thousands of dollars. Some people who visit this site wouldn’t hesitate to spend $1300 for a custom action or $1800+ for a competition scope, yet they don’t want to spend more than a few hundred dollars on a safe. That’s not common sense. If you’re on a tight budget, consider a used safe. Unlike many other products, safes don’t really wear out over time. When businesses change locations, you can get a very high quality commercial safe for little more than the cost of removing it.
DO spend more for a safe that offers fire-resistance.
But you have to do your homework–you can spend a lot of money for “fire-proofing” that actually is not very effective. Make sure if sheet-rock is used that it is properly installed. If you have valuable documents and media files, it’s not a bad idea to purchase a smaller, commercial-grade fire safe to put inside the gun safe. This gives you double protection.
DO look at many different brands of safes before you buy.
There ARE significant differences among brands. For example, Browning offers a unique (patent-pending) door-mounted rifle rack. Zanotti offers slide-out drawers and a modular design that is much easier for an owner to move. Ft. Knox uses an advanced method to secure and stabilize its fire-proofing layers within the safe. Brown offers custom exotic wood interior shelving and safes with commercial-grade burglary protection (much thicker steel with heavy composite doors and walls). Amsec offers a proprietary “DryLight” poured concrete-type fire insulation with greater structural strength than typical sheet-rock panels.
DO investigate the safe’s specifications.
Just because a safe is big and heavy doesn’t mean it’s particularly secure. Heavy-gauge steel is much more resistant to cutting and drilling than light 12- or 14-gauge steel. Some safes on the market have walls so thin they can be penetrated with a fire ax. We recommend 10-gauge steel at a minimum, and 8 gauge is much better. The safe should carry a UL RSC (Underwriters Laboratories “Residential Security Container”) or better rating.
DO ask about the safe’s safeguards against tampering.
A quality safe will feature extra armor or devices to defeat drilling. Low-grade safes can be opened in a few minutes with simple, battery-powered hand tools. All safes should have relockers to help ensure the safe remains locked in the case of a burglary. Relockers are hardened pins that are triggered during an attack, and cannot be retracted without hours of drilling. The number of relockers on a safe ranges from 2-10+ depending on the safe’s size and burglary grade.
DON’T store powder in your safe. A tightly-sealed metal box with a large quantity of powder inside is a bomb. Store powder in a separate, lightly-constructed cabinet or plastic box. The main thing for powder is to keep it dry and away from moisture and light.
Don’t Make the Mistake of Buying an Undersized Safe
The most common mistake people make when buying a gun safe is getting a safe that’s too small. This video explains why you should probably invest in a bigger safe. First, the rated gun capacity is exaggerated — rifles with mounted optics, long barrels, wide forearms and/or pistol grips take up considerably more space than a small rimfire rifle or a lever gun with iron sights. Second, your gun collection will likely grow in years to come. Third, you may want to store other valuables in the safe — such as vital documents, jewelry, watches, and pricey electronics. In this video the host notes: “Get a much larger safe than you think you’ll need at first. This will guarantee that you will have enough room for future purchases and all the guns and equipment you currently have.”
What Happens in a Fire and Deluxe Features
This video shows what can happen INSIDE a gun safe during a fire. This Winchester safe did not fare well during a major hourse. That’s why you want to buy a safe with a good fire rating.
This video shows the features of a large Superior Safe Co. gunsafe with internal organizers and door storage for handguns and accessories.
Modular Safes — Smart Option for Easier Moving
This article features a great video showing how to assemble a modular safe in under 30 minutes. This article also explains the benefits of modular gunsafes — primarily easier transport and installation. “Modular safes have been around for a few years now and are becoming more popular. Here’s why: The safe comes delivered to you in panels, so you can bring them into your home one at a time and put it together anywhere you like. This makes it easy to carry up and down stairs, onto elevators or anywhere! Security — Is it as secure as one that comes pre-assembled? The answer is, absolutely.” READ FULL ARTICLE on NRAWomen.com.
Five Good Gun Safes Under $500
We know some readers have a tight budget. This video looks at some recommended lower-cost safes under $500.00 list price. Note, however, that this video was produced in 2022. Now in 2023, with Bidenflation, the actual gun safe prices may be higher. For a full-size safe, we do recommend you spend quite a bit more — the investment in a higher quality safe, with better fire rating, is worth it.
Locking Device–Mechanical Dial vs. Digital Locks Recommendation: UL Group II mechanical dial lock or commercial-grade electronic.
For gun safes, we prefer rotary-combination dial locks, although commercial-grade electronic locks are now very good. While less convenient, and slower to open than electronic locks, combination locks are still more durable and trouble-free than the digital locks found on many low- to medium-cost gun safes. Among the combination locks, the Sargent & Greenleaf model 6730 (UL Group II) remains an industry standard. The director of Sturdy Safes noted: “An S&G 6730 will be working fine when your grandchildren have grandchildren.” For home use, we also recommend the standard, high-visibility “front-read” white on black dial.
Avoid the cheap, imported electronic locks. These are known for failing relatively quickly–the keypad internals just wear out. With some of these designs, if the lock fails while the door is closed, you’ll have to employ a professional gunsmith to drill your safe and replace the locking assembly and keypad. With any electronic lock, re-program your combination now and then so that keypad wear patterns don’t reveal the numbers you push to open the safe. But when you change the combination, be sure to record the new setting.
With a dial lock, choose a design that meets UL Group II (or better) certification. If you choose a digital lock, we strongly recommend that you select a UL Type I, Commercial Grade lock from LaGard, Sargent & Greenleaf, or Kaba Mas. Commercial-grade locks, such as the S&G Comptronic” 6120 or LaGard “SafeGard” are much more robust and are designed to be used 20 times a day or more in retail and banking environments. A good commercial digital keypad lock should give 10 years or more of continuous use before replacement is required. With any digital lock, however, you should replace the battery at least once a year. Normally this can be done without professional assistance.
A rapid-access bedside safe is a great way to keep your pistol secure, but also readily available, close at hand. Not all rapid-access pistol safes are created equal, however. In this video, John of Pew Pew Tactical explains what to look for in a small pistol safe, and points out the pros and cons of the four safes tested:
Fort Knox PB1 Simplex Pistol Box
Strong case, reliable no-battery locking system. Very good safe, but expensive ($299.00 on Amazon).
Vaultek Electronic Pistol Safes
Multiple styles, thin profile, 5-button electronic ($174.99 on Amazon), or Biometric with sliding door ($359.99 on Amazon), both with rechargeable batteries.
VERPROOF Quick Access Handgun Safe
Designed for vertical mount under desk on vehicle, One gun only, requires batteries, $69.99 on Amazon.
Guys — honestly, if you do anything today on this site, watch this video. You won’t be disappointed. Guaranteed. This is a very informative (and surprisingly entertaining) video. Every serious hand-loader should watch this video to see how cartridge cases are made. Your Editor has watched the video 5 times now and I still find it fascinating. The camera work and editing are excellent — there are many close-ups revealing key processes such as annealing and head-stamping.
VERY Informative Video Show Cartridge Brass and Ammunition Production:
Norma has released a fascinating video showing how bullet, brass, and ammunition are produced at the Norma Precision AB factory which first opened in 1902. You can see how cartridges are made starting with brass disks, then formed into shape through a series of processes, including “hitting [the cup] with a 30-ton hammer”. After annealing (shown at 0:08″), samples from every batch of brass are analyzed (at multiple points along the case length) to check metal grain structure and hardness. Before packing, each case is visually inspected by a human being (3:27″ time-mark).
The video also shows how bullets are made from jackets and lead cores. Finally, you can watch the loading machines that fill cases with powder, seat the bullets, and then transport the loaded rounds to the packing system. In his enthusiasm, the reporter/narrator does sometimes confuse the term “bullets” and “rounds” (5:00″), but you can figure out what he means. We definitely recommend watching this video. It’s fascinating to see 110-year-old sorting devices on the assembly line right next to state-of-the art, digitally-controlled production machinery.
Video tip by EdLongrange. We welcome reader submissions.
Tech Report by Brian Williams
Reloading for a military surplus gun is different than loading for a modern precision rifle in my opinion. There are a few tasks that carry over from one to the other, but the main goal is slightly different. The target shot in the CMP games matches has a rather generous 10 ring, and with a little larger target your focus needs to change from a round with ultra accuracy to a round that is safe and functions well in your particular rifle.
Reloading for Vintage .30-06 Springfield Rifles
Bullet Selection — With the .30-06 for my Garands and Springfields I stick mostly with 168gr bullets plus some 155-grainers. These bullet weights have just worked for me in the past.
Cartridge Brass (Milsurp vs. Commercial) — I use both military and commercial brass, having success with each. I do prefer commercial brass as it is easier to prep for the first reload. Military brass usually has a primer crimp of some kind that needs to be removed, and I have found that trimming these cases can sometimes leave you scratching your head as the OAL on military cases varies considerably.
Powder Charge and Dispensing — I have always had good success with Hodgdon H4895 powder. My load has always been right around 47.0 grains, with both the 168gr and 155gr bullets. I also use the Auto-Trickler to drop all of my powder charges. This is a fantastic piece of equipment that not only gives super-consistent powder charges quickly, but it also makes one less thing that you have to worry about while on the firing line. With the Auto-Trickler, there is never a question about the powder charge in your ammo. As for primers, I have been shooting CCI 200 Large Rifle primers for many years and have never had an issue.
Case Care and Trimming — With most of the .30-06 brass that I use, I will only reload them 5 times maximum. I don’t push the brass too much, because the Garand’s semi-auto cycling can be tough on the cases. I also trim my cases for OAL each reload cycle. I use a Giraud power trimmer, so trimming is relatively quick and easy.
The chambers in some of the older rifles are not perfectly-machined like a modern high-end rifle. This can cause the brass to grow a little inconsistently, so I find trimming every load cycle helps to make sure that everything stays in a nice safe spec.
Case Annealing — A few years ago I started to anneal my .223 Rem service rifle brass. Now I have added that process for all my match ammunition. I anneal after every firing. It is a rather easy step as I can have my auto-feeding Annealeez machine running while doing something else, so annealing does not add a great deal of time or effort to the reloading process.
The .30-06 case was the father of the .308 Winchester, which was adopted as the 7.62×51 NATO cartridge.
VIDEO Showcase — Brian Williams Shoots M1903A3 Prone in May 2021
+ONE Program to Encourage New Shooters
August is National Shooting Sports Month. As part of this effort, the NSSF encourages firearms owners to take one novice to the range this one. This +ONE Movement will help strengthen the ranks of shooters, which, in turn, can help protect our Second Amendment freedoms. The NSSF states: “If just one in three of America’s recreational shooters adds one new person to the shooting sports, we’ll secure a strong future for generations to come. So be the one. For all the thrills and excitement recreational shooting has given you, join the +ONE movement and invite someone to the range today. Share your experience on social media.”
The +ONE campaign seeks to build the ranks of shooters. The NSSF says: “If just one in three of America’s recreational shooters adds one new person to the shooting sports, we’ll secure a strong future for generations to come.” Learn more at LetsGoShooting.org.
As part of the +ONE Movement, the NSSF encourages all participants to practice gun safety and proper firearms handling and storage practices. This video covers basic gun safety procedures:
Today we feature a modern switch-barrel PRS chassis rifle set up for quick changes between 6mm Creedmoor and 6.5 Creedmoor barrels. The owner, Forum member Jeff Cosgrove (aka “Punkur67″) uses the 6 CM barrel for competition, favoring the reduced recoil over its 6.5 mm big brother. He does use the 6.5 CM barrel for practice (given its better barrel life). The 6.5 CM barrel also gives him the chance to shoot a variety of factory 6.5 Creedmoor ammo.
- Terminus Zeus action with Quick Change (QC) barrel option.
– 6mm Creedmoor Pre-Fit Bartlein Heavy Varmint 400MODBB barrel for matches
– 6.5 Creedmoor Pre-Fit Benchmark Heavy Palma barrel for training
– MPA BA Competition chassis with full weight kit
– Zero Compromise Optic ZCO 5-27x56mm FFP scope
– TriggerTech Diamond trigger
This rifle represents an evolution for Jeff. Each step along the way in his PRS journey, he has learned more about what he wants and needs in a competition rifle. And what you see here, from the $3760 ZC527 scope to his high-tech reloading equipment, represents pursuit of excellence. Jeff even created a modern, spacious man cave/reloading center in his new house (photos below).
Quick-Change Barrel System with Terminus Zeus QC Action
This rifle has two pre-fit barrels that work with the Terminus Zeus QC Action for fast and easy barrel swaps. To remove a barrel, you simply release two tension screws on the front of the action and then unscrew the barrel. To swap in a different pre-fit barrel, reverse the process and then tension the screws. The Terminus Zeus is 3-lug receiver with 60° bolt and integral recoil lug. Both the receiver and bolt are DLC-treated. Jeff reports this action is extremely smooth and has met all of his expectations. Some other Zeus features are threaded trigger pins for quick/easy trigger installation, and a roller-tipped cocking piece.
PRS Discipline Offers Fun, New Challenge for Long-Time Shooter
My name is Jeff Cosgrove, I live in Winchester, California and do commercial heating and air conditioning. I have shot for 20+ years but I found my interest in shooting was dwindling over time. I got somewhat bored with shooting paper at 100 yards or plinking cans out in the desert. About 18 months ago I decided I wanted to shoot long range. I picked up a used MPA in .300 Winchester Magnum and started shooting long range with a new buddy. That day I fell in love with guns all over again with more intensity than ever.
How I Got Started in PRS
With that new .300 WM I soon found my reloads were not up to my expectations (high ES/SD), so I purchased all new reloading hardware. One of my purchases was a used Benchsource Annealer. The guy I bought that from asked if I had ever tried PRS and he invited me to check out a match. So I went to a local PRS event as a spectator. I looked at many rigs on the firing line and took notes. By the end of the day I knew this was something I really wanted to do. I then acquired a used chassis rifle that I thought would work well for PRS. I went to a PRS match the following month but shot poorly.
After working with that first PRS rifle, a 6.5 CM with Stiller Tac30 action, MDT chassis, and Proof Carbon-wrapped barrel, I quickly learned that gun did not handle and balance the way I hoped.* It was too light in the front, the ergos were poor, and scope eye relief was not optimal. So I decided to build my own GEN 2 PRS rifle. This is the story of how I put together my new switch-barrel rig that I now use in competition.
PRS Rifle and Gear Selection — Learning What Works
Barrel availability was limited given the current shortages. Luckily I was able to obtain a 6mm Creedmoor pre-fit Bartlein Heavy Varmint 400MODBB from Southern Precision Rifles. The 6mm Creedmoor is notorious for being a barrel burner cartridge so I went with the special 400MODBB metal. Bartlein says that barrel life expectancy is 1.5 to 2 times longer than the standard 416 grade steel. I also purchased a 6.5 Creedmoor pre-fit Benchmark Heavy Palma barrel for training (Source: Straight Jacket Armory). With the Terminus Zeus quick change system I am able to swap from my match barrel to my trainer barrel in just a couple minutes. I loosen two set screws, unthread the barrel, thread the new barrel on, and torque the set screws to 10 inch-pounds. This also affords me caliber options in case I’m in a pinch for ammo. If I have some 6.5 CM loaded up and don’t have time to load 6mm Creedmoor for a match, then I’m covered.
For the trigger, I went with a TriggerTech Diamond Pro curve model. I have Timney, Jewell, and TriggerTech triggers in other rifles. I like them all but I liked the feel of the TT Diamond the best so that is what I used on this build. I set my triggers around 18-20 oz. — I am not a fan of ultra-light trigger pulls.
MPA BA Competition Chassis with Added Weight
I went with an MPA BA Comp chassis with full internal and external weight kit. I also have Gray Ops external weight on the handguard. I had the same chassis on my .300 WinMag and felt very comfortable with it. I took a PR1 class and found that, with a different gun, I had to force a comfortable hand position for proper trigger pull. After that class I grabbed my MPA and my hand fell in to the perfect position. I did not need to hunt or index my hand with the MPA. The built ARCA rail (RAT) lowered the rifles center of gravity more than my old setup with the ARCA rail bolted to the bottom of the handguard. With the current configuration, the rifle weighs in at 24 lbs. and balances three inches in front of the magwell. I now have the flexibility to add, subtract, or move approximately 6 lbs. of weight.
The Attraction of PRS/NRL Practical Competitions
I really enjoy PRS-style shooting because there seems to be a new challenge every time you compete — no matter what. With PRS I am shooting many different positions and ranges with the pressure of a stopwatch. This keeps things interesting for me. I have taken a few training classes to help establish good, clean fundamentals.
Jeff says it is hard to practice for the many unconventional shooting positions at PRS matches.
My biggest challenges so far have been: 1) building stable shooting positions that I have not practiced enough; 2) proper equipment selection; and 3) time management. Regarding the shooting positions — PRS/NRL is not like F-Class where you can always practice from one position. And it’s hard to practice for unusual set-ups (barriers and positions) you’ve not encountered before. Concerning equipment — you need some experience in the game to determine what really works best for you.
Innovative Zero Compromise Optic — Optimized for the Tactical Game
The scope is a Zero Compromise ZC527 (5-27x56mm FFP) with MPCT2 reticle. Zero Compromise Optic is a relatively new manufacturer, but their scopes are top-flight. The First Focal Plane ZCO has excellent glass that is extremely bright and clear. With a big 36mm main tube, the ZC527 offers 35 Mils Elevation and 21 Mils Windage adjustment. The field of view is 21 feet at 100 yards — one of the widest in the industry. The ZC527 also offers illuminated reticle and locking turrets. When I was at my first PRS match I looked through several different scopes. When I got behind a ZCO scope I knew this was what I wanted — the ZCO scope was super clear, super sharp, with very positive controls.
I put a protective wrap on the scope because with some of our PRS stages it is easy to scratch or dent the scope tube. You don’t want to bang up an expensive scope — the ZC527 retails for $3760.
Reloading for 6mm Creedmoor and 6.5 Creedmoor
When starting out with a new cartridge I like to search places like AccurateShooter.com and UltimateReloder.com for popular recipes used by knowledgeable shooters. I am all about paving your own way on certain things but with the consistency, higher cost, and limited supply of components these days I try to stick with the most common loads. I also want to limit barrel wear and get through load development quickly. I don’t want to chase loads for 300 rounds to ultimately land in the same place that so many other people have already found.
I start my new barrels with virgin brass and load three rounds at each charge weight in 0.2 grain increments. I put the most popular charge weight (for my chosen bullet) in the middle of my load range and load above and below to find a good node while paying close attention for pressure signs along the way. I use the 6.5 Guys spreadsheet (see below) to help analyze my results. With those results I like to re-test a narrower range with 5-10 rounds each charge weight in 0.2 grain increments. I again use the 6.5 Guys spreadsheet to make a final charge weight selection and then I move on to seating depth. I will load different depths to tighten the groups up.
Load Development Using 6.5 Guys Custom Spreadsheet
To hold and analyze my load development data I use the spreadsheet from 65Guys.com. It helps a ton with making a decision on your final load. This Excel spreadsheet works great and makes it simple to analyze your data. You can even copy and paste your chronograph data if your chrono logs on to a SD card.
In this 6.5 Guys video Steve provides an overview and tutorial for using the Excel load development analysis model that he has developed. The Excel Load Development Analysis Spreadsheet version 2.0 is FREE. Download from the 6.5 Guys Website.
In this video Steve explains some key statistical concepts for performing load data analysis. He also provides tips and guidance for determining the optimal load for your rifle as you analyze the load data you’ve collected.
New House, New Man Cave/Reloading Room
Jeff recently moved with his family into a great new house. One bonus of this move was that he upgraded from a cramped reloading area to a dedicated “Man Cave” that has ample space for his gun safes, multiple presses, and all his reloading components. Large upper and lower cabinets plus a dedicated “gun closet” provide plenty of storage. Read all about this move in this AccurateShooter Forum Thread.
Here is Jeff’s first reloading area years ago: “My first reloading setup was smashed in my two-bedroom condo so I had a very small bench that was very cluttered. I had to deal with the limited space I had but I made it work. Then in our first house I had a larger bench/cabinet, but it was still not ideal.”
Here is the new Man Cave in the new house — very open, spacious, with plenty of storage.
This animated GIF shows the new Man Cave move-in process start to finish:
Examples of Guns & Gear Videos from GunTalk YouTube Channel Guns & Gear is a leading gun-centric resource with hundreds of informative videos. Produced by Tom Gresham, Ryan Gresham, and the Gun Talk team, Guns & Gear showcases new products in the firearms industry. Each episode features interviews with industry experts/instructors, range demonstrations, tips, and training techniques. Guns & Gear content is all FREE — you can watch hundreds of videos from Guns & Gear past seasons via the Guns & Gear Archive on GunTalkTV.com. And there are 900+ Guns & Gear videos on YouTube as part of the GunTalk Media YouTube Channel.
Savage 110 Precision Field Test and Review — 6.5 Creedmoor
Looking for an accurate, value-priced chassis rifle for PRS/NRL production class competition? Or would you like to shoot a big magnum in ELR matches? The Savage Arms 110 Precision is a good choice. These Savage 110 chassis rifles show excellent accuracy, and the barrel nut system allows easy installation of pre-fit barrels. Priced at $1649 MSRP, the Savage 110 Precision features an aluminum MDT LSS XL Cerakoted chassis and a 24″ barrel with factory muzzle brake. Chamberings offered are: 6.5 Creedmoor, .308 Win, .300 PRC, .330 Win Mag, and .338 Lapua Magnum.
Colt King Cobra Target .22 LR Rimfire Revolver
We think all serious shooters should have a .22 LR rimfire pistol in their collection, and a rimfire revolver is a smart choice, offering great accuracy and reliability. Colt relaunched the .357 Magnum King Cobra in 2019, and Colt later launched the .22 LR King Cobra Target family of rimfire revolvers. The King Cobra Target rimfire series includes 2″, 3″, 4.25″ and 6″ barrel versions. In this video, Justin Baldini joins Guns & Gear’s Kevin “KJ” Jarnagin reviews the features of the rimfire King Cobra Target. Then Team Colt’s Jalise Williams joins Guns & Gear’s Chris Cerino for a range demo.
Reloading Basics with Gavin Gear of UltimateReloader.com
In this Range Ready Tip, Gavin Gear of UltimateReloader.com explains the basic equipment one needs to reload rifle cartridges. Whether you’re an experienced reloader, or aspire to be one, you’ll find Gavin’s explanations helpful. He covers the key procedures — case sizing, priming, powder dispensing, and bullet seating. This Range Ready Tip features Hodgdon powders and Nosler bullets, with Lyman reloading presses and tools.
How to Improve Organization of Your Gun Safe
Many gun owners can benefit from this video which shows how to arrange the long guns and handguns in your gun safe. The video shows how to use rifle rods and handgun hangers to organize your gun safe contents in the most efficient manner. This can both make it easier to access your guns and can also help protect your valuable firearms from scraping and contact damage. Note: We recommend you put both rifles and pistols in rust-blocking sleeves for long-term storage.
Best Tripods for Hunting and Precision Shooting
This video explains how to select the best tripod for your hunting mode/match discipline and gun type. This video compares tripods from BOG, Two Vets, and Tricer. 1. The BOG DeathGrip (aluminum & carbon versions is good for hunting blinds, but is heavy and not ideal for mobility. 2. The Budget Spotting Scope Tripod is conveniently light but optimized for glassing, not for rifle support. 3. The Two Vets Recon V2 is a match-grade tripod ideal for long-range and precision shooters. 4. The Tricer HK Kit is a lightweight, inverted design with ball head and gun clamp. This may be the best all-around option for both hunting and tactical matches.
Guns & Gear Goes to GAP Grind — Leading Pro/Am PRS Match
For this video, Gun Talk’s Kevin “KJ” Jarnagin attended the Bushnell GAP Grind, a huge PRO-AM PRS match held annually in Tennessee. The GAP Grind, the largest, most popular PRS match in the world, draws nearly 400 amateur and pro shooters. Recognized as the premier PRO-AM precision rifle match with both individual and team competition, the GAP Grind has introduced thousands of new shooters to the sport since its inception. This 2-day, multi-stage PRS match is known for being very challenging.
Popperpalooza — Shooting 100 Steel Popper Targets with AR15
This fun video shows the ability of a modern sporting rifle (MSR) to drill a host of reactive steel targets with speed and efficiency. Using a Springfield Armory Saint AR-15, top action shooter Rob Leatham takes on “Popperpalooza” — a set-up with multiple rows of 100 steel “popper” targets. Shooting reactive targets is fun because you get instant gratification with the sound of the hit and the movement of the target as it falls down, swings, or spins.
Optics — Angled and Straight Spotting Scope Designs Compared
Spotting scopes come in two basic styles — straight and angled. The angled version is the most common because it can be used from all shooting positions — even prone (just rotate the spotter around its centerline). If you are spotting from a sitting or standing position, with the spotting scope on a tripod, a straight spotter may work best. That way your head/neck/torso is not bent down and you can instantly see a full view ahead just by moving your head slightly away from the lens. In this video, Gun Talk’s Kevin “KJ” Jarnagin covers the pros and cons of Straight vs. Angled spotting scopes. KJ uses Leupold SX-4 Pro Guide HD15-45x65mm spotting scopes in both straight and angled configurations.
Below are links to five past Guns & Gear shows we recommend. These feature some impressive rifles and pistols, notable new optics, and good travel advice for gun owners. Click a link below to open the show list for a particular season. Seasonal show previews will then display top to bottom in numerical order. Then look for the particular show number and click on it.
Season 13, Episode 7: Colt Anaconda, Frankford Arsenal X-10 Progressive Press, SIG Sauer Red Dot optics
Here’a useful article by Sierra Bullets Media Relations Manager Carroll Pilant. This story, which originally appeared in the Sierra Bullets Blog, covers some of the more common ammo problems that afflict hand-loaders. Some of those issues are: excessive OAL, high primers, and improperly-sized cases. Here Mr. Pilant explains how to avoid these common problems that lead to “headaches at the range.
I had some gentlemen at my house last fall getting rifle zeros for an upcoming elk hunt. One was using one of the .300 short mags and every 3rd or 4th round would not chamber. Examination of the case showed a bulge right at the body/shoulder junction. These were new cases he had loaded for this trip. The seating die had been screwed down until it just touched the shoulder and then backed up just slightly. Some of the cases were apparently slightly longer from the base to the datum line and the shoulder was hitting inside the seating die and putting the bulge on the shoulder. I got to thinking about all the gun malfunctions that I see each week at matches and the biggest percentage stem from improper handloading techniques.
One: Check Your Cases with a Chamber Gage
Since I shoot a lot of 3-gun matches, I see a lot of AR problems which result in the shooter banging the butt stock on the ground or nearest solid object while pulling on the charging handle at the same time. I like my rifles too well to treat them that way (I cringe every time I see someone doing that). When I ask them if they ran the ammo through a chamber gage, I usually get the answer, “No, but I need to get one” or “I didn’t have time to do it” or other excuses. The few minutes it takes to check your ammo can mean the difference between a nightmare and a smooth running firearm.
A Chamber Gauge Quickly Reveals Long or Short Cases
Size Your Cases Properly
Another problem is caused sizing the case itself. If you will lube the inside of the neck, the expander ball will come out a lot easier. If you hear a squeak as the expander ball comes out of a case neck, that expander ball is trying to pull the case neck/shoulder up (sometimes several thousandths). That is enough that if you don’t put a bulge on the shoulder when seating the bullet … it can still jam into the chamber like a big cork. If the rifle is set up correctly, the gun will not go into battery and won’t fire but the round is jammed into the chamber where it won’t extract and they are back to banging it on the ground again (with a loaded round stuck in the chamber). A chamber gage would have caught this also.
Oversizing cases also causes problems because the firing pin doesn’t have the length to reach the primer solid enough to ignite it 100% of the time. When you have one that is oversized, you usually have a bunch, since you usually do several cases at a time on that die setting. If the die isn’t readjusted, the problem will continue on the next batch of cases also. They will either not fire at all or you will have a lot of misfires. In a bolt action, a lot of time the extractor will hold the case against the face of the breech enough that it will fire. The case gets driven forward and the thinner part of the brass expands, holding to the chamber wall and the thicker part of the case doesn’t expand as much and stretches back to the bolt face. If it doesn’t separate that time, it will the next time. When it does separate, it leaves the front portion of the case in the chamber and pulls the case head off. Then when it tries to chamber the next round, you have a nasty jam. Quite often range brass is the culprit of this because you never know how many times it has been fired/sized and in what firearm. Back to beating it on the ground again till you figure out that you have to get the forward part of the case out.
Just a quick tip — To extract the partial case, an oversized brush on a cleaning rod [inserted] and then pulled backward will often remove the case. The bristles when pushed forward and then pulled back act like barbs inside the case. If you have a bunch of oversized case that have been fired, I would dispose of them to keep from having future problems. There are a few tricks you can use to salvage them if they haven’t been fired though. Once again, a case gage would have helped.
Two: Double Check Your Primers
Another thing I see fairly often is a high primer, backwards primer, or no primer at all. The high primers are bad because you can have either a slam fire or a misfire from the firing pin seating the primer but using up its energy doing so. So, as a precaution to make sure my rifle ammo will work 100% of the time, I check it in a case gage, then put it in an ammo box with the primer up and when the box is full, I run my finger across all the primers to make sure they are all seated to the correct depth and you can visually check to make sure none are in backwards or missing.
Three: Check Your Overall Cartridge Length
Trying to load the ammo as long as possible can cause problems also. Be sure to leave yourself enough clearance between the tip of the bullet and the front of the magazine where the rounds will feed up 100%. Several times over the years, I have heard of hunters getting their rifle ready for a hunt. When they would go to the range to sight in, they loaded each round single shot without putting any ammo in the magazine. On getting to elk or deer camp, they find out the ammo is to long to fit in the magazine. At least they have a single shot, it could be worse. I have had hunters that their buddies loaded the ammo for them and then met them in hunting camp only to find out the ammo wouldn’t chamber from either the bullet seated to long or the case sized improperly, then they just have a club.
Four: Confirm All Cases Contain Powder
No powder in the case doesn’t seem to happen as much in rifle cartridges as in handgun cartridges. This is probably due to more handgun ammo being loaded on progressive presses and usually in larger quantities. There are probably more rifle cartridges that don’t have powder in them than you realize though. Since the pistol case is so much smaller internal capacity, when you try to fire it without powder, it usually dislodges the bullet just enough to stick in the barrel. On a rifle, you have more internal capacity and usually a better grip on the bullet, since it is smaller diameter and longer bearing surface. Like on a .223, often a case without powder won’t dislodge the bullet out of the case and just gets ejected from the rifle, thinking it was a bad primer or some little quirk.
For rifle cases loaded on a single-stage press, I put them in a reloading block and always dump my powder in a certain order. Then I do a visual inspection and any case that the powder doesn’t look the same level as the rest, I pull it and the one I charged before and the one I charged after it. I inspect the one case to see if there is anything visual inside. Then I recharge all 3 cases. That way if a case had powder hang up and dump in the next case, you have corrected the problem.
On progressive presses, I try to use a powder that fills the case up to about the base of the bullet. That way you can usually see the powder as the shell rotates and if you might have dumped a partial or double charge, you will notice as you start to seat the bullet if not before. On a progressive, if I don’t load a cartridge in one smooth stroke (say a bullet tipped over sideways and I raised the ram slightly to reset it) Some presses actually back the charge back adding more powder if it has already dumped some so you have a full charge plus a partial charge. When I don’t complete the procedure with one stroke, I pull the case that just had powder dumped into it and check the powder charge or just dump the powder back into the measure and run the case through later.
CZ has announced its new CZ 600+ bolt-action rifle series. These new rifles are offered in various formats for hunting, PRS/NRL, and target shooting. Notable features include and fast barrel swap system, a shorter bolt throw, and a wide selection of stocks. CZ offers 3-shot accuracy guarantees: Most models have guaranteed sub-MOA accuracy at 100 yards (three-shot groups), while the RANGE model offers guaranteed sub-0.75 MOA accuracy in five-shot groups.
“The CZ 600+ represents the future of hunting and precision rifles,” said Tom Taylor, CZ-USA’s Chief Marketing Officer. The CZ 600+ series features a groundbreaking modular design highlighted by patented innovations. These include an advanced Silent, Ergonomic, and Ambidextrous (S.E.A.) safety, a quick 4-position adjustable trigger, and an innovative interchangeable barrel system. The series guarantees unmatched precision accuracy, supported by CZ’s lifetime barrel warranty. For detailed information about the CZ 600+ series, visit CZFirerms.com.
Interchangeable Barrel System for Versatility
With the interchangeable barrel system, shooters can easily and safely swap barrels, allowing one rifle to adapt to multiple calibers, from hunting to sport shooting, seamlessly.
Innovative Features and Design — CZ 600+ Rifles Include:
Advanced S.E.A. Safety: Silent, Ergonomic, and Ambidextrous cross-bolt design for secure handling.
Quick Adjustable Trigger: Easily adjusted to suit personal preferences without disassembly.
Controlled Feeding System: Smooth bolt operation with 100% controlled feeding.
Lifetime Barrel Warranty: Cold hammer-forged barrels with exceptional durability and precision.
Robust Construction: Available with lightweight aluminum alloy receivers with integrated Weaver rails or steel receivers with Remington 700-style mounting interfaces.
The CZ 600+ Series — SIX Models
CZ 600+ MDT: Tactical Rifle with MDT Stock for PRS/NRL.
CZ 600+ RANGE: Optimized for precision shooting with adjustable stock features.
CZ 600+ TRAIL: Compact model with retractable stock and compatibility with AR and CZ mags.
CZ 600+ ALPHA: Rugged polymer stock designed for reliable performance in all conditions.
CZ 600+ LUX: Classic European walnut stock with fiber optic adjustable iron sights.
CZ 600+ AMERICAN: Timeless American styling combined with modern enhancements.
Are you in the market for your first handgun, for target use or for self-defense? The Winchester Blog has a good article for handgun buyers. This story, “Things You Should Know When Purchasing Your First Pistol”, provides many smart tips that can help you choose the right handgun, and save money in the process. In addition, the article explains how to train with your new pistol and handle it safely. READ Full Article.
If possible, you should test a variety of different pistols, to determine which works best for you. Check the feel, the ergonomics, the sight picture, and the controls. And, if possible, test the pistols with live-fire at a range which rents samples.
How do you know if your choice is right for you?
Once you’ve narrowed down choices, try to get time shooting the pistol(s) you are considering. You can usually rent guns at commercial ranges. This is an excellent way to “try before you buy.” NSSF has a list of places to shoot[.] When looking for a range that rents firearms, an online search and then a phone call to confirm what options are available is a solid plan. If you have friends and family who own a model you are interested in, ask if they will go to the range with you so that you can try it.
Take pistols for a test drive
First, dry-fire and manipulate the pistol. Can you easily lock the slide open? Are the sights suited to your vision? Then, fire a magazine or two of ammo [in a supervised range facility]. — Winchester Blog
The Winchester Blog article lists techniques that can help you get the “feel” for a particular firearm:
1. Practice the 4 Rules of Firearm Safety and make sure the gun is empty.
2. [After confirming the gun is empty] manipulate the slide, safety, magazine release, and dry-fire.
3. Perform a dry or empty magazine change — make sure you can hit the release and also reload a new magazine easily.
4. Perform a draw, or if you’re at a range where that is not allowed, simply pick the pistol up off the table and bring it up to your eye level and align the sights. Do this a few times. Can you acquire the sights quickly?
5. How does the backstrap fit your hand? Can you get both hands on the gun with enough “purchase” that you can really grip it well?
This Winchester Blog article is by Becky Yackley. Becky has competed in 3-Gun, Bianchi pistol, Service Rifle, NCAA air rifle, smallbore and air pistol events around the world since 1989.
For gun safes, we prefer rotary-combination dial locks, although commercial-grade electronic locks are now very good. While less convenient, and slower to open than electronic locks, combination locks are still more durable and trouble-free than the digital locks found on many low- to medium-cost gun safes. Among the combination locks, the Sargent & Greenleaf model 6730 (UL Group II) remains an industry standard. The director of Sturdy Safes noted: “An S&G 6730 will be working fine when your grandchildren have grandchildren.” For home use, we also recommend the standard, high-visibility “front-read” white on black dial.
Norma has released a fascinating video showing how bullet, brass, and ammunition are produced at the 
Bullet Selection — With the .30-06 for my Garands and Springfields I stick mostly with 168gr bullets plus some 155-grainers. These bullet weights have just worked for me in the past. 
Powder Charge and Dispensing — I have always had good success with Hodgdon H4895 powder. My load has always been right around 47.0 grains, with both the 168gr and 155gr bullets. I also use the Auto-Trickler to drop all of my powder charges. This is a fantastic piece of equipment that not only gives super-consistent powder charges quickly, but it also makes one less thing that you have to worry about while on the firing line. With the Auto-Trickler, there is never a question about the powder charge in your ammo. As for primers, I have been shooting CCI 200 Large Rifle primers for many years and have never had an issue. 
+ONE Program to Encourage New Shooters
Oversizing cases also causes problems because the firing pin doesn’t have the length to reach the primer solid enough to ignite it 100% of the time. When you have one that is oversized, you usually have a bunch, since you usually do several cases at a time on that die setting. If the die isn’t readjusted, the problem will continue on the next batch of cases also. They will either not fire at all or you will have a lot of misfires. In a bolt action, a lot of time the extractor will hold the case against the face of the breech enough that it will fire. The case gets driven forward and the thinner part of the brass expands, holding to the chamber wall and the thicker part of the case doesn’t expand as much and stretches back to the bolt face. If it doesn’t separate that time, it will the next time. When it does separate, it leaves the front portion of the case in the chamber and pulls the case head off. Then when it tries to chamber the next round, you have a nasty jam. Quite often range brass is the culprit of this because you never know how many times it has been fired/sized and in what firearm. Back to beating it on the ground again till you figure out that you have to get the forward part of the case out.
