For today’s Sunday GunDay story, we feature highlights from two in-depth reports on rifles built around the relatively new 6GT cartridge (also known as the “6mm GT”). Developed by George Gardner (G.A. Precision) and Tom Jacobs (Vapor Trail), the 6GT was designed to feed well from magazines, be more efficient than the 6mm Creedmoor, and offer outstanding accuracy. It is just enough bigger than the 6mmBR or 6 Dasher so it feeds better. But it retains many of the qualities of the 6mmBR (high efficiency and outstanding accuracy). Burning significantly less powder than the 6mm Creedmoor, the 6GT is a bit less expensive to shoot, and should, theoretically at least, deliver better barrel life.
“The [6GT] is a more predictable and barrel-friendly cartridge than the 6mm Creedmoor. It can utilize the accurate and forgiving powders of the 6BR, has fantastic accuracy, and due to its shoulder angle and case length, it doesn’t suffer from feeding issues.” — PewPewTactical.com
We should say that the 6 Dasher has been used very successfully in PRS/NRL competition, with some aftermarket magazine accessories. For this reason, if you already shoot a 6 Dasher, moving to a 6GT may not be worth the cost of new dies and new brass. A.J. Deysel, writing for LoadDevelopment.com, writes:
“The longer case of the 6mm GT means it feeds as reliably from a magazine as a 6mm Creedmoor, and offers slightly higher powder capacity and in turn velocities than the 6mmBR variants, whilst still being able to use the same accurate and forgiving propellants.
You will also find many competitive and average Joes shooting 6mmBR and 6mm Dashers with a Primal Rights or some other mag conversion kit, having very few if any mag-feed issues at all, so that pretty much also nullifies the need to move away from those [chamberings] if you already own one of those or the reloading equipment for it.” — LoadDevelopment.com
Part I: The 6GT Cartridge for Precision Rifle Competition
Report by Vu Pham
I was ready to build a 6 Dasher when I saw a lot of buzz… about a new caliber George Gardner (Owner of G.A. Precision) and Tom Jacobs (Owner of Vapor Trail Bullets) designed, the 6GT. After some research and talking to George, I ditched the 6mm Dasher build and had GA Precision build me a 6GT on a GAP Templar action I already had in the safe. The reasons to try the 6GT in a new PRS-style rig were as follows:
1. Push a 110-115 grain class bullet at 2880-2930 FPS safely in the Sacramento heat.
2. Achieve a load that is reliable and predictable. The caliber must be easy-to-tune and predictable from barrel to barrel. I don’t want to spend weeks developing a new load each time I spin on a fresh barrel.
3. Be able to run the same mag in all my guns without having to tweak or use mag kits. The round must feed from AICS and AW magazines without major tweaking or hiccups.
4. Get good barrel life. The barrel needs to go 2200-2500 rounds with match-grade reliability and accuracy.
5. Have a competitive cartridge with the least possible recoil without sacrificing too much performance down range, compared to bigger options like the 6mm Creedmoor.
6GT feeding from un-modified magazines has been flawless in all the rifles we tested. The 6GT feeds so well, I sometimes have to do a press check to ensure there is a round in the chamber.
On paper the 6GT seemed like the perfect cartridge for PRS- and NRL-style competition. It has the low recoil of a 6 Dasher, with good feeding and mag compatibility. With the 6GT, a competitor can push 105gr bullets at 3000+ FPS or run heavier bullets at 2800-2900+ FPS.
Knowing that I would initially have to make my own 6GT brass and do quite a bit of load development, I enlisted the help of Dan Bertocchini with CS Tactical. Dan has a lot more experience with wildcats and is the man when it comes to this type of data gathering. He has been running a 6 Dasher for a few years so I was curious how he would compare the 6GT to his 6 Dasher.
Quick Summary: “I am really digging the 6GT and the capabilities it offers. It can launch 103gr Vapor Trails at 3000+ FPS or lob heavy 115gr DTACs in the low-to-mid 2900s comfortably. I think we will see this cartridge go mainstream in PRS/NRL-style competition in 2020.” — Vu Pham
The new 6GT Cartridge Was Tested in Three (3) Tactical Rifles:
Rifle 1: Vu’s 6GT 1.0
Builder: GA Precision
Action: Left Hand GAP Templar (large firing pin)
Barrel: Bartlein 7.7 Twist finished at 26″ with a 419 Hellfire Brake
Stock: KMW Sentinel
Optic: Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27x56mm EBR-7C MRAD
Bi-Pod: Harris
Trigger: Timney Calvin Elite
Magazines: AICS and AW
Support Bag: Wiebad Fortune Cookie
Rifle 2: Vu’s 6GT 2.0
Builder: Rubicon Precision
Action: Impact Precision 737
Barrel: Bartlein 7.0 Twist finished at 27″ with a 419 Hellfire Brake
Stock: XLR Industries Envy Chassis
Optic: Vortex Razor Gen II 4.5-27x56mm EBR-7C MRAD
Bi-Pod: Harris with Henderson Arca adapter
Trigger: Trigger Tech Diamond
Magazines: AICS and AW
Support Bag: Wiebad Fortune Cookie
Rifle 3: Dan’s 6GT
Builder: CS Tactical
Chambered by: Rubicon Precision
Action: Lone Peak Arms Fusion
Barrel: Proof 7.0 Twist finished at 28″ with a Muzzle Brake and More Brake
Stock: XLR Industries Envy Chassis
Optic: Minox ZP5 5-25x56mm MR4
Bi-Pod: Arca Cyke Pod (PRS)
Trigger: Trigger Tech Diamond
Magazines: MDT
Support Bag: Armageddon Gear OG Game Changer, Waxed Canvas
Alpha Munitions Pre-Production 6GT Brass George Gardner was kind enough to send us 50 pieces of Pre-Production Alpha 6GT brass for preliminary testing. Like the cases I formed from 6.5×47 Lapua brass, the Alpha 6GT brass will use a small rifle primer. Purchased direct from Alpha Munitions, 6GT brass is now $1.30 per case, which is comparable with Lapua 6mm Creedmoor brass, currently $120.99/100 at Grafs.com.
The major difference between 6.5×47 Lapua-formed brass and Alpha 6GT brass is the case capacity. Alpha 6GT brass has 1.5 to 1.7 grains more case capacity. When a piece of 6.5×47 Lapua brass is formed into a 6GT, the walls of the case now become the shoulder and part of the neck. In a normal piece of brass, the shoulder and neck are typically thinner because of the thickness of the brass tapering from the body to neck.
While the cartridge design was optimized for Hodgdon Varget, the extra case capacity of the Alpha 6GT brass opens the door to Hodgdon H4350 (my favorite powder) and Alliant Reloder 16.
Test Results with Alpha Munitions 6GT Brass
Initial test results were as expected from a premium brass-maker. Dan and I both got excellent Standard Deviations and Extreme Spreads over my MagnetoSpeed V3 and his LabRadar. This string below was with 112gr Barnes Match Burners and 33.8 grains of Varget. Can’t complain about a 3 FPS Extreme Spread!
Yes, H4350 Works with the Alpha Munitions Brass
Personally, I prefer running Alpha 6GT brass with H4350 rather than Varget pushing a heavier bullet. H4350 burns slower and cleaner which should equate to better barrel life. The Lapua-formed 6GT cases just do not have the capacity to reach the cartridge’s full capability with the slower burning powders.
Is the 6GT cartridge accurate? Definitely. Here is a 5-shot group at 600 yards shot by Dan. This was Alpha 6GT brass, with Hodgdon H4350 pushing Barnes 112gr Match Burner bullets.
PART II — 6GT Load Development with Multiple Powders
This text is taken from a full report by Mike McCasland on his 6GT (aka “6mm GT”) bolt action rifle. This rig was designed for general use, not just for PRS/NRL matches. In his 6GT rifle, Mike tested multiple powders including Varget, H4350, Reloder 16, Reloder 15, Shooters World Precision, and Vihtavuori N140. For more details, CLICK HERE for full report.
About the 6mm GT Cartridge
BRASS — The first thing you’ll find is cartridge brass choices for the 6 GT are rather limited currently. At present, the only commercial options are Hornady and Alpha Munitions. For the die-hard Lapua fans, you can technically make 6mm GT brass from 6.5×47 Lapua, however that process is very labor-intensive.
I have used both Hornady and Alpha brass in this rifle and haven’t noticed much difference between the two. I will say that my batch of Alpha brass was slightly softer than Alpha brass I’ve used in other calibers; you could feel a difference when neck turning cases. I’m unsure if that’s a batch issue, or something specific to their 6mm GT brass as a whole. As far as performance, there was little discernable difference. Oddly enough, the Hornady brass seemed to have slightly less case capacity than the Alpha; with most other cartridges it’s the other way around.
POWDERS — The 6mm GT was designed with Hodgdon Varget in mind, and that popular powder works exceedingly well in this platform. That said, the 6mm GT can work with a wide variety of powders, some yielding better performance than Varget.
I’ve tried a multitude of powders during my initial 6mm GT load development: Varget, Shooters World Precision, RL16, VV N140, H4350, and RL-15 to name a few. In my barrel, Hodgdon H4350 seems to deliver the best velocity/accuracy combination. SD and ES also seemed to be the lowest with H4350.
Load Development for the 6mm GT — Many Powders Tested
BULLETS — The most common 0.120″ freebore chamber allows for the majority of high-BC 6mm projectiles found in both F-Class and PRS. I had good luck with the pointed 107gr Sierra Match Kings (SMK), as well as the 110gr Hornady A-Tips in my rifle. For those looking to run the heavier 112-115 grain 6mm offerings, I believe GAP designed a 0.160″ freebore reamer that gets those bullets out of the neck/shoulder junction. Shown below is the 0.120″ freebore JGS reamer print:
SUMMARY — Good Cartridge with Much Potential
Generally speaking, I think the 6mm GT is a good little round. Some may not subscribe to this theory, but I believe some cartridges are inherently easier to tune than others. I’m not sure the 6mm GT is as easy-to-tune as a 6mmBR, 6 Dasher, or 6 BRA, but I don’t think it lags that far behind.
With relatively little trouble, I was able to find loads with both Varget and H4350 that would consistently shoot very well — 0.2 to 0.3 MOA. Moreover, I found the 6GT cartridge lives up to the velocity claims made by G.A. Precision. I was easily able to push the 110gr A-Tips to 2950 FPS, and the 107gr SMKs to low 3000 FPS range without any pressure signs, or unnecessary wear and tear on the brass.
As a fun test, I ran my 6mm GT rifle in a local 1000-yard F-Class match with the 110gr A-Tips, just to see just how well they would perform. Although wind conditions of the day and some E-Target issues prevented my 6mm GT rig from getting the better of the larger 7mm and .30-Cal rifles, the 6mm GT proved itself an accurate little round at distance. Here is a 1000-yard ShotMarker target:
After putting several hundred rounds through my 6mm GT rifle, I anticipate building another 6GT on a repeater action to give PRS a try. I think if you are looking for a dual-purpose rifle that can run tactical matches (with 100% feeding reliability), and can also be used for mid-range, F-Open Class competition, the 6mm GT would be a very good option.
About the author, Mike McCasland:
Mike McCasland is an avid shooter who competes regularly in F-Class matches. Based in Texas, Mike is the creator of the Texas Precision YouTube Channel. There you’ll find many videos covering reloading, gun projects, and marksmanship. Mike has done some notable product reviews including a comparison test of Micrometer Competition Seating Dies. To access Mike’s YouTube Channel, CLICK HERE.
Have inflation (and supply chain shortages) affected the price of powder? You bet. Probably WAY more than you could imagine. Forum member “Two Time HM LR” posted this interesting photo (above) showing Hodgdon powder prices from 1978, as sold by O.K. Weber in Oregon.
Eight Pounders under $45.00 in 1978
Now the prices — $20 to $44 — may not get your attention at first. But take note that these numbers are for EIGHT pound containers. Yep eight-pounders were all under $45! For example, H4895 was $44 for 8 pounds back in 1978, 45 years ago. And H335 was $20 for eight pounds — that’s just $2.50 per pound!
These days a single pound of a desirable powder such as H4831 might cost $60+ at some stores IF you can find it at all. On Hodgdon’s web site, H4831 powder is priced at $54.99 per pound in August 2023. Using that current $54.99/lb figure, H4831 is now TEN times higher than it was in 1978, when H4831 cost $44 for 8 pounds, i.e. $5.50 per pound.
Here are some comments from our Forum Members:
“Heck those prices are just about the same as current ones, just a little smaller container now.” — Joe
“I’ve got some H4831 in a can marked ‘WWII Surplus Powder’ with a price tag of $2.75. We’ll never see that again either.” Rick in Oregon
“1978 prices and 2022 income would be nice. Unfortunately that doesn’t work. If you compare prices and income, powder cost about the same. You also have to discount the temporary gouging that we are seeing.” — Tmwinds
“So I used to buy gas for 10 cents per gallon and they’d pump it, check the oil, and clean the windshield.” — Pirate Ammo
One comment suggests that the powder price hike actually tracks general U.S. currency inflation over the last four decades. So perhaps powder price increases are not as bad as they seem, when compared to how all prices have risen since 1978:
“Using H4895 as a comparison basis at $58.50 (list price) in 1978 calculates it to $275 in todays money. Looking at Powder Valley prices it looks like around [$340 in August 2023] for the same item in todays money [a 24% increase in real dollars]. Availability is another issue though and if someone is really needing powder they may well have to pay above suggested retail.” — Drover
Want to learn the basics of position shooting? Then you should check out an article by Gary Anderson, DCM Emeritus, in On the Mark digital magazine (Summer 2014, pp. 6-13). This article covers all the key elements: body position (prone, sitting, standing), sling use/adjustment, sight picture, aiming process, and trigger control. While this 8-page article was specifically written for Rimfire Sporter shooters, the techniques described by Anderson apply to all types of position shooting, whether you shoot air rifles, smallbore rifles, or centerfire rifles.
Here’s what Anderson says about aiming — how to keep your sights steady and get them centered on the middle of the target:
Trigger Contact and Center As soon as aiming at the target begins, the index finger must move from the trigger-guard to contact the trigger. It is important to get initial pressure on the trigger as soon as aiming begins. Then the shooter must focus on the sight picture and centering the sight picture movements over the aiming point. No one, not even champion shooters, can hold the aligned sights perfectly still. The sights are going to move a little bit or a lot, depending on the shooter’s skill level. The secret is to center those sight picture movements over the aiming point on the target (see trace illustration) before pulling the trigger.
When the sight picture movements on the target are centered, the last step in firing the shot is to add… smooth pressure on the trigger until the shot breaks.
Anderson also discusses the 5 Basics of Shot Technique:
BONUS: Olympic Gold Medalist Jamie Gray
Here’s an interesting video about three-position shooting. Produced by GOnra Media, this video demonstrates rifle hold and body alignment for prone, standing, sitting, and kneeling positions. Olympic Gold Medalist Jamie Gray demonstrates the proper stance and position of arms and legs for each of the positions. Ideally, in all of the shooting positions, the shooter takes advantage of skeletal support. The shooter should align the bones of his/her arms and legs to provide a solid foundation. A shooter’s legs and arms form vertical planes helping the body remain stable in the shooting position.
The question of barrel break-in is controversial. Some folks advocate an elaborate, lengthy cycle of shooting and brushing, repeated many times — one shot and clean, two shots and clean and so on. This, it is argued, helps barrels foul less and shoot more accurately. Others say minimal break-in, with patching and brushing after 10-15 rounds, is all you need. Still others contend that break-in procedures are a total waste of time and ammo — you should just load and shoot, and clean as you would normally.
We doubt if there will ever be real agreement among shooters concerning barrel break-in procedures. And one must remember that the appropriate break-in procedure might be quite different for a factory barrel vs. a custom hand-lapped barrel. This Editor has found that his very best custom barrels shot great right from the start, with no special break-in, other than wet patches at 5, 10, and 15 rounds. That said, I’ve seen some factory barrels that seemed to benefit from more elaborate break-in rituals.
What’s the best barrel break-in procedure? Eric Mayer of Varminter.com decided to ask the experts. Eric interviewed representatives of three leading barrel manufacturers: Krieger, Lothar-Walther, and Shilen. He recorded their responses on this video. In order of appearance, the three experts are:
Shilen, Krieger, and Walther Experts Talk about Barrel Break-in
Do I Need to Break-In a New Rifle Barrel?
Eric Mayer of Varminter.com says: “That is a simple question, [but it] does not necessarily have a simple answer. Instead of me repeating my own beliefs, and practices, on breaking-in a new rifle barrel, I decided to answer this one a bit differently. While we were at the 2016 SHOT Show, we tracked down three of the biggest, and most popular, custom barrel makers in the world, and asked them what they recommend to anyone buying their barrels, and why they recommend those procedures. We asked the question, and let the camera run!” Launch the video above to hear the answers — some of which may surprise you.
Barrel Break-in — Initial Inspection and Cleaning
This video explains that you should always inspect and clean the bore of your barrel before sending rounds through it. There may be remnants of the production process, such as lapping residues, that you’ll want to get out of the bore. We’ve even seen a few tiny metal pieces in some factory barrels. And it’s always wise to borescope a new barrel to see if there are visible defects in the rifling such as lands that have flawed edges — we’ve seen that on some cheaper barrels.
Barrel Break-In — Ian Klemm’s Surprising Observations
Here’s a 10-minute Vortex Nation interview with Ian Klemm. Ian, a 4-Time F-TR National Champion is one of America’s best long-range shooters. In this video, Ian explains his approach to barrel break-in, which may surprise you. Does barrel break-in even matter? Conventional wisdom says “Yes” and perhaps there’s some truth to that, but Ian argues that break-in is NOT nearly as important as the internet wants you to believe. Ian believes that you don’t need to waste a ton of time/ammo to get your barrel ready to shoot extremely accurately. This may be particularly true with premium hand-lapped custom barrels.
Barrel Break-In Procedures with Keith Glasscock
Keith Glasscock is also one of America’s greatest F-Class shooters who has finished second at the Nationals multiple times. Keith is also a highly-respected wind coach who has a popular YouTube video channel, Winning in the Wind. In this video, Keith explains his procedure for breaking-in his match barrels. He starts by bore-scoping the barrel and cleaning it. If he finds some burrs he may use some JB Bore Paste, a patch, and a worn brush and “give that throat a little scrub” (See 1:30 time-mark). He used different stroke lengths to avoid putting a “step” in the throat. When he’s satisfied he goes to the range. He fires the first five rounds, then cleans. He then fires quite a few rounds before cleaning the barrel again and beginning load development (See 8:25 time-mark).
General Barrel Break-in Procedures Recommended by Brownells
Brownells Gun Techs Steve Ostrem and Caleb Savant tackle a thorny topic: breaking in a new barrel. What IS breaking-in a barrel? And WHY do it? The rifling of a freshly machined barrel has microscopic burrs and sharp edges. “Breaking-in” is the process of putting bullets down the bore to smooth out those rough spots. The goal is to round down the sharp edges so they’re not stripping copper off a bullet as it travels the bore, which leads to fouling that leads to reduced accuracy and inconsistent groups. In a very minor way, you’re actually lapping the barrel. The breaking-in process works best on cut-rifled and button-rifled barrels. Cold hammer-forged, chrome-lined, or nitrided barrels — such as commonly found on AR-15s — may not benefit much from the process. Pistol barrels really don’t need to be broken in because larger-diameter bullets are not so much affected by tiny variations in the bore. Likewise, break-in is more helpful for a .17, .20, or .22 caliber rifle than a .45 caliber rifle.
George Gardner of G.A. Precision Talks About Barrel Break-In
G.A. Precision’s George Gardner is a leading figure in the PRS/NRL world. In this video, George makes the valid point that not all barrels require the same amount of break-in. George says some barrels require very little break-in, while others benefit from a more elaborate break-in process that helps reduce future copper and powder fouling. He calls this “seasoning” the barrel so it fouls less. For a typical barrel, George’s recommended process (4:25 time-mark) starts with one shot, then clean for three one-round cycles. This is followed by three shots then clean, with repeat 3-shot cycles if need. For cleaning George prefers nylon brushes (5:50 time-mark). NOTE: George also makes a very important point — you MUST swab the chamber and get it dry between cleaning cycles (5:30 time-mark).
Put the same load in a variety of barrels (with the same length and chamberings) and you’ll see a wide variance in muzzle velocity. In fact, it’s not unusual to see up to 100 fps difference from one barrel to the next. We demonstrated this with a comparison test of Lapua factory ammo.
Chron Testing Lapua Factory Ammo
At our Southern California test range some years ago, we chronographed Lapua 105gr 6mmBR factory ammo in three different 8-twist barrels of similar length. The results were fascinating. Lapua specs this ammo at 2790 fps, based on Lapua’s testing with its own 26″ test barrel. We observed a speed variance of 67 fps based on tests with three aftermarket barrels.
Barrel Velocity Variance
Brand ‘S’ and Brand ‘PN’ were pre-fit barrels shot on Savage actions. Brand ‘K’ was fitted to a custom action. All test barrels were throated for the 100-108 grain bullets, though there may have been some slight variances in barrel freebore. With a COAL of 2.330″, the rounds were “jumping” to the rifling in all barrels.
Among the four barrels, Brand ‘PN’ was the fastest at 2824 fps average — 67 fps faster than the slowest barrel. Roughly 10 fps can be attributed to the slightly longer length (27″ vs. 26″), but otherwise this particular barrel was simply faster than the rest. (Click Here for results of 6mmBR Barrel Length Velocity Test).
IMPORTANT: Results Are Barrel-Specific, Not Brand-Specific
These tests demonstrate that the exact same load can perform very differently in different barrels. We aren’t publishing the barrel-makers’ names, because it would be wrong to assume that ‘Brand X’ is always going to be faster than ‘Brand Y’ based on test results from a single barrel. In fact, velocities can vary up to 100 fps with two identical-spec barrels from the SAME manufacturer. That’s right, you can have two 8-twist, 26″ barrels, with the same land-groove configuration and contour, from the same manufacturer, and one can be much faster than another.
Don’t Demand More Than Your Barrel Can Deliver
We often hear guys lament, “I don’t get it… how can you guys get 2900 fps with your 6BRs and I can only get 2840?” The answer may simply be that the barrel is slower than average. If you have a slow barrel, you can try using more powder, but there is a good chance it may never run as fast as an inherently fast barrel. You shouldn’t knock yourself out (and over-stress your brass) trying to duplicate the velocities someone else may be getting. You need to work within the limits of your barrel.
Factory Ammo Provides a Benchmark
If you have a .223 Rem, 6mmBR, .243 Win, 6.5×47 Lapua, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5×55, .308 Win, .30-06 Springfield, or .338 LM Rifle, we recommend you buy a box of Lapua factory-loaded ammo. This stuff will shoot great (typically around half-MOA), and it can give you a baseline to determine how your barrel stacks up speedwise. [Editor’s NOTE: The original test was conducted in 2008. The velocity of current-production Lapua factory ammo might be higher or lower, so your results may vary.]
When you complete a new 6mmBR rifle, it’s definitely smart to get a box of the factory ammo and chronograph it. That will immediately give you a good idea whether you have a slow, average, or fast barrel. Then you can set your velocity goals accordingly. For example, if the factory 6BR ammo runs about 2780-2790 fps in your gun, it has an average barrel. If it runs 2820+ in a 26″ barrel (or 2835 fps in a 28″), you’ve got a fast tube.
Here’a useful article by Sierra Bullets Media Relations Manager Carroll Pilant. This story, which originally appeared in the Sierra Bullets Blog, covers some of the more common ammo problems that afflict hand-loaders. Some of those issues are: excessive OAL, high primers, and improperly-sized cases. Here Mr. Pilant explains how to avoid these common problems that lead to “headaches at the range.
I had some gentlemen at my house last fall getting rifle zeros for an upcoming elk hunt. One was using one of the .300 short mags and every 3rd or 4th round would not chamber. Examination of the case showed a bulge right at the body/shoulder junction. These were new cases he had loaded for this trip. The seating die had been screwed down until it just touched the shoulder and then backed up just slightly. Some of the cases were apparently slightly longer from the base to the datum line and the shoulder was hitting inside the seating die and putting the bulge on the shoulder. I got to thinking about all the gun malfunctions that I see each week at matches and the biggest percentage stem from improper handloading techniques.
One: Check Your Cases with a Chamber Gage
Since I shoot a lot of 3-gun matches, I see a lot of AR problems which result in the shooter banging the butt stock on the ground or nearest solid object while pulling on the charging handle at the same time. I like my rifles too well to treat them that way (I cringe every time I see someone doing that). When I ask them if they ran the ammo through a chamber gage, I usually get the answer, “No, but I need to get one” or “I didn’t have time to do it” or other excuses. The few minutes it takes to check your ammo can mean the difference between a nightmare and a smooth running firearm.
A Chamber Gauge Quickly Reveals Long or Short Cases
Size Your Cases Properly
Another problem is caused sizing the case itself. If you will lube the inside of the neck, the expander ball will come out a lot easier. If you hear a squeak as the expander ball comes out of a case neck, that expander ball is trying to pull the case neck/shoulder up (sometimes several thousandths). That is enough that if you don’t put a bulge on the shoulder when seating the bullet … it can still jam into the chamber like a big cork. If the rifle is set up correctly, the gun will not go into battery and won’t fire but the round is jammed into the chamber where it won’t extract and they are back to banging it on the ground again (with a loaded round stuck in the chamber). A chamber gage would have caught this also.
Oversizing cases also causes problems because the firing pin doesn’t have the length to reach the primer solid enough to ignite it 100% of the time. When you have one that is oversized, you usually have a bunch, since you usually do several cases at a time on that die setting. If the die isn’t readjusted, the problem will continue on the next batch of cases also. They will either not fire at all or you will have a lot of misfires. In a bolt action, a lot of time the extractor will hold the case against the face of the breech enough that it will fire. The case gets driven forward and the thinner part of the brass expands, holding to the chamber wall and the thicker part of the case doesn’t expand as much and stretches back to the bolt face. If it doesn’t separate that time, it will the next time. When it does separate, it leaves the front portion of the case in the chamber and pulls the case head off. Then when it tries to chamber the next round, you have a nasty jam. Quite often range brass is the culprit of this because you never know how many times it has been fired/sized and in what firearm. Back to beating it on the ground again till you figure out that you have to get the forward part of the case out.
Just a quick tip — To extract the partial case, an oversized brush on a cleaning rod [inserted] and then pulled backward will often remove the case. The bristles when pushed forward and then pulled back act like barbs inside the case. If you have a bunch of oversized case that have been fired, I would dispose of them to keep from having future problems. There are a few tricks you can use to salvage them if they haven’t been fired though. Once again, a case gage would have helped.
Two: Double Check Your Primers
Another thing I see fairly often is a high primer, backwards primer, or no primer at all. The high primers are bad because you can have either a slam fire or a misfire from the firing pin seating the primer but using up its energy doing so. So, as a precaution to make sure my rifle ammo will work 100% of the time, I check it in a case gage, then put it in an ammo box with the primer up and when the box is full, I run my finger across all the primers to make sure they are all seated to the correct depth and you can visually check to make sure none are in backwards or missing.
Three: Check Your Overall Cartridge Length
Trying to load the ammo as long as possible can cause problems also. Be sure to leave yourself enough clearance between the tip of the bullet and the front of the magazine where the rounds will feed up 100%. Several times over the years, I have heard of hunters getting their rifle ready for a hunt. When they would go to the range to sight in, they loaded each round single shot without putting any ammo in the magazine. On getting to elk or deer camp, they find out the ammo is to long to fit in the magazine. At least they have a single shot, it could be worse. I have had hunters that their buddies loaded the ammo for them and then met them in hunting camp only to find out the ammo wouldn’t chamber from either the bullet seated to long or the case sized improperly, then they just have a club.
Four: Confirm All Cases Contain Powder
No powder in the case doesn’t seem to happen as much in rifle cartridges as in handgun cartridges. This is probably due to more handgun ammo being loaded on progressive presses and usually in larger quantities. There are probably more rifle cartridges that don’t have powder in them than you realize though. Since the pistol case is so much smaller internal capacity, when you try to fire it without powder, it usually dislodges the bullet just enough to stick in the barrel. On a rifle, you have more internal capacity and usually a better grip on the bullet, since it is smaller diameter and longer bearing surface. Like on a .223, often a case without powder won’t dislodge the bullet out of the case and just gets ejected from the rifle, thinking it was a bad primer or some little quirk.
For rifle cases loaded on a single stage press, I put them in a reloading block and always dump my powder in a certain order. Then I do a visual inspection and any case that the powder doesn’t look the same level as the rest, I pull it and the one I charged before and the one I charged after it. I inspect the one case to see if there is anything visual inside. Then I recharge all 3 cases. That way if a case had powder hang up and dump in the next case, you have corrected the problem.
On progressive presses, I try to use a powder that fills the case up to about the base of the bullet. That way you can usually see the powder as the shell rotates and if you might have dumped a partial or double charge, you will notice as you start to seat the bullet if not before. On a progressive, if I don’t load a cartridge in one smooth stroke (say a bullet tipped over sideways and I raised the ram slightly to reset it) Some presses actually back the charge back adding more powder if it has already dumped some so you have a full charge plus a partial charge. When I don’t complete the procedure with one stroke, I pull the case that just had powder dumped into it and check the powder charge or just dump the powder back into the measure and run the case through later.
A carpet is used up front for smoother tracking with the Joy-Pod’s flat, ski-style feet. The arms of the Joy-Pod were painted to match the stock. The rear bag features low-drag material on the ears.
F-Class competition grows in popularity every year. Unlike F-Open, the F-TR (Target Rifle) class is limited to the .223 Remington (5.56×45) or .308 Winchester (7.62×51) chamberings. F-TR rifles also use bipods rather than a front rest. But these are no ordinary Harris-style bipods. Modern F-TR bipods have a wide footprint for added stability and many F-TR shooters favor SEB Co-Axial joystick bipods (aka “Joy-Pods”). Today we are featuring an F-TR rig that showcases the types of components, and accessories used by top F-TR competitors — including a coaxial bipod and Labradar Chronograph. If you’re considering getting started in the F-TR game, take a close look at this modern F-TR build from Forum member DM.Oakes.
Modern F-TR Rig with Borden Action, Krieger Barrel, and SEB Joy-Pod
This handsome .308 Win F-TR rig features a smooth-running Borden BRM action, 30-inch 1:10″-twist Krieger barrel, and an X-Ring Laminated Wood stock. Up front is a coaxial “Joy-Pod” joystick bipod. This is a state-of-the art, wide footprint bipod used by many competitors at the Worlds in Canada. The long joystick allows the “driver” to quickly adjust both elevation and windage in a smooth, continuous motion. The Joy-Pod can be adjusted so it will hold setting during the shot — you don’t have to “hard-hold” the joystick. Many shooters let the joystick slide through their fingers as the rifle moves back on recoil. With a little practice (and careful placement of the rear sand-bag), the tracking is excellent and you can slide the gun right back to point of aim after each shot.
This F-TR rifle is shown during load testing with a LabRadar chronograph.
» Full LabRadar Field Test/Review by Ray Gross
If you are considering purchasing a LabRadar Chronograph system, we strongly suggest you read the very thorough and informative LabRadar Review by Ray Gross, past Captain of the USA F-TR team. Ray notes: “It takes me about 3 minutes to set up [my LabRadar] at the range. Because there are no downrange screens, I do not have to hold up other shooters on the range like I would when setting up a traditional chronograph. The convenience alone will mean that I will use it more often than my old chronograph. Every time I take it out, I enjoy it a little bit more.”
M1 Garand Springfield Armory July 1941 production. Facebook photo by Shinnosuke Tanaka.
Want an authentic surplus M1 Garand? You can get these classic battle rifles from the Civilian Marksmaship Program (CMP) through direct sales as well as online auctions. If you are looking to obtain an authentic, safe-to-shoot M1 Garand, the CMP is your best bet. Each M1 Garand rifle sold by the CMP is an genuine U.S. Government rifle that has been inspected, head-spaced, repaired if necessary, and test fired for function. Each rifle is shipped with safety manual, one 8-round clip, and chamber safety flag.
This CMP Video Explains the Process for Ordering an M1 Garand from the CMP:
M1 Garand Manufacturer Codes: SA (Springfield Armory), HRA (Harrington & Richardson Arms), IHC (International Harvester Co.), WRA (Winchester Repeating Arms)
The federal law that established the new CMP authorizes the Corporation to sell surplus .30 and .22 caliber military rifles, parts and ammunition to qualified U.S. citizens “for marksmanship”. Accordingly, the CMP sells government-surplus M1 Garands, .22 caliber target rifles, and small quantities of other rifles to qualified purchasers. CMP operations, warehousing, inspection, repair, test firing, sales order processing and distribution activities are headquartered in Anniston, Alabama.
M1 Garands at CMP Retail Store in Anniston, Alabama.
How to Order an M1 Garand from the CMP
To purchase an M1 Garand through the CMP, you must be an adult U.S. Citizen, who is a member of an affiliated organization, and who has participated in a “Marksmanship Activity”*. This basically means you need to join a a gun club and participate in a clinic or match. Proof of club membership and citizenship is mandatory for all ages. However, the marksmanship requirement is waived for those over 60 years. Garands must be ordered by mail or through official CMP Auctions. Orders are filled on a first-come, first-serve basis. Rifles of all grades are packed for shipment purely by “luck of the draw”. Most orders ship within 2-4 weeks. If price has changed after an order has been received, customers will be notified before new prices are charged. CLICK HERE for ordering information.
ATF Rule was overturned by U.S. District Court, but DOJ appealed that ruling.
The Second Amendment Foundation (SAF) and its partners are challenging the “Final Rule” issued by the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (BATFE) redefining frames and receivers as firearms. A U.S. District Judge in Texas initially ruled against the BATFE, but the Bureau appealed that ruling. SAF has filed an appellate brief in the case, known as VanDerStok v. Garland. Joining SAF in the legal challenge are Defense Distributed, and JSD Supply.
SAF’s brief explains how ATF redefined the term “firearm” without any Congressional action. Last year, the agency announced a Rule expanding the definition of firearm to include unfinished firearm components and kits used in the process of manufacturing a firearm. SAF and its partners are asserting ATF violated the Administrative Procedures Act (APA). A federal District Court judge agreed and concluded that ATF had acted in excess of its statutory authority, and granted summary judgment.
SAF founder and Executive Vice President Alan M. Gottlieb promised the organization will pursue this case vigorously as it winds through the court system: “This case challenges the authority of the ATF to change rules and definitions of firearms without Congressional authority,” Gottlieb said. “We simply cannot allow any federal agency to make up its own rules as it goes along, without Congressional approval.”
Judge O’Connor’s ruling in VanDerStok v. Garland vacated the controversial ATF Final Rule that effectively changed the definition of a firearm under Federal law. However the BATFE has challenged that ruling.
SAF Executive Director Adam Kraut said the foundation expects to prevail on the portions of the Final Rule that we challenged: “The district court entered a judgment deeming the Rule illegal and vacating it,” Kraut said, “and we are asking the Fifth Circuit to affirm the district court’s decision to issue relief based on the APA. By promulgating the Rule, ATF has appropriated authority reserved for Congress. Such a usurpation of power is antithetical to our system of government and must be stopped.”
Bushnell Match Pro ED 15×56 Binocular with MRAD Reticle
Bushnell is now shipping its new Match Pro ED 15×56 binoculars, designed for precision and competition rifle shooters. These 15-power, high-magnification binoculars offer ED Prime glass and a proprietary, rotating Shot-Call MRAD reticle. This reticle allows fast shot calls and corrections — something important for PRS/NRL competition. Bushnell says these new 15×56 binoculars, when mounted securely, have “enough power to effectively replace your spotting scope with a wide field-of-view that puts less stress on your eyes and allows you to more easily observe projectile flight.”
Early prototype versions of the Match Pro ED 15×56 binocular have already proved their worth in PRS/NRL competition. Bushnell pro shooter Robert Brantley has used the Match Pro ED binocular in recent PRS matches where he’s won four consecutive Tactical Division titles. In this video, Brantley explains the key features of Bushnell’s 15X, reticle-equipped Match Pro ED binoculars:
“The new Match Pro binos offer the perfect setup for spotting and calling shots on the range,” said Brantley. “They offer … the ability to fine tune corrections with the Shot-Call reticle. It truly does offer the best of everything and I’m not ever going back to shooting without them.”
Two important features of the Match Pro ED binoculars are the Shot-Call reticle and BridgeSet Stabilizer. The offset MRAD reticle is designed for target sizing, ranging and follow-up shot correction. The reticle has a dedicated focus adjustment and can be rotated for leveling after IPD (interpupillary distance) adjustment. Users can lock in their preferred IPD with the integrated bridge-lock, which ensures the binoculars are set for quick use.
This unit has some cool features. The BridgeSet IPD stabilizer provides a barrel angle stop that keeps your inter-pupillary distance constant in the field. A first of its kind, the BridgeSet is like a zero stop for your binoculars. These binoculars also have dual adjustable diopters to keep both barrels perfectly focused. This is important because many folks have slightly different vision in their left vs. their right eyes.
Bushnell’s 15-power Match Pro ED binoculars boast fully multi-coated ED (Extra-Low Dispersion) Prime objective lenses and BaK4 Abbe-Koenig roof prisms with PC3 dielectric phase coatings to ensure 92% light transmission. These Match Pro ED binoculars also feature Bushnell’s EXO-Barrier for high resolution regardless of weather conditions. A rugged magnesium housing protects the internal mechanisms while IPX5 waterproof sealing shields the optics from moisture. Another very good feature is that you can mount a tripod adapter to either the front or rear bridges based on your preference. That’s handy. These binoculars weigh a hefty 56 ounces (3.5 pounds), so you’ll definitely want to mount them on a tripod.
Now in stock, Match Pro ED 15×56 binoculars are currently available for $699.99 at EuroOptic.com and other leading vendors. The Match Pro ED 15×56 binocular is backed by Bushnell’s 20-year Lifetime Ironclad Warranty. CLICK HERE to see full product profile on Bushnell.com.