Gun Safes: Key Things to Consider — Size, Locks, Steel Thickness
There is a good article on gun safes in SHOT Business, a publication for the NSSF SHOT Show audience. Written by Christopher Cogley, this Safe Spaces Article offers some very important things to consider when purchasing a gun safe. Here are key points from that article:
Safe Security — The security of a gun safe comes down to two main factors: the thickness of the steel and the construction of the safe. When it comes to construction, look for a safe that has continuous welded construction instead of bolts or spot-welding, which are easier for trained gun thieves to cut through with torches or high-power saws.
Lock Options — Traditional combination locks are arguably the simplest choice. The downside, though, is they don’t provide quick access to firearms in an emergency. Electronic and biometric keypads provide quicker access — but be sure to replace the batteries every year.
Fireproof Rating — Aside from theft, the biggest threat to your firearms is fire. Unfortunately, the fireproof rating on gun safes can be confusing because there is no single, “standard” fireproof rating. As a general rule, the fireproof rating states how long a safe can be exposed to a fire of a particular temperature and maintain a temperature inside the safe of no more than 350 degrees F. To put this in context, the average house fire creates temperatures between 800 and 1,200 degrees F.
Where to Place a Gun Safe in Your Home
The Safe Spaces article includes advice from Stephen Hall, CEO of Lock It Up Safes. Hall addressed the question: “Where should I put my safe?”Hall states: “Ease of installation should NOT be the foremost consideration when making this decision. Putting a safe in the garage has both pros and cons. We see some retailers recommend the garage solely because they don’t have the right team on board to install safes in other locations, and wheeling one into the garage is the easy way out.
Putting a safe in the garage is fine if that is the only place you an put it, but most want the safe in the home, where they can get to it quickly. Temperature and humidity are important considerations as well, and both are more easily controlled in a house rather than in the garage.
One advantage to garage installation is the concrete floor provides a solid base for safe installation. Houses built on concrete slabs also offer a solid anchor on the first level. If the safe needs to go to an upper floor, the weight of the safe and its contents need to be factored in.”
Place Safe Against Outside Wall
Hall recommends placing your gun safe against an outside wall: “In case of fire, the safe will typically last longer as there is not a lot that can burn on one side of the safe, thus keeping it cooler.”
Don’t Make the Mistake of Buying an Undersized Safe
The most common mistake people make when buying a gun safe is getting a safe that’s too small. This video explains why you should probably invest in a bigger safe. First, the rated gun capacity is exaggerated — rifles with mounted optics, long barrels, wide forearms and/or pistol grips take up considerably more space than a small rimfire rifle or a lever gun with iron sights. Second, your gun collection will likely grow in years to come. Third, you may want to store other valuables in the safe — such as vital documents, jewelry, watches, and pricey electronics. In this video the host notes: “Get a much larger safe than you think you’ll need at first. This will guarantee that you will have enough room for future purchases and all the guns and equipment you currently have.”
Recommended Safe Features for Long-Gun Storage |
Editor’s Recommendation:
Budget $1200-1500 for a safe from a major maker, with external hinges, and an interior at least 58″ high. That gives you room for 30″-barreled rifles with a top shelf for handguns and other valuables. A rotary rack and slide-out drawers are great additions. Keypad or Dial? We favor rotary dial locks. With minimal maintenance they will function flawlessly for decades. But the digital locks offer quick-access and convenience. If you go digital, get a commercial-grade unit. Fire-lining is worth getting, but a thin layer of sheet-rock doesn’t make a safe truly “fire-proof”. |
Interior at least 58″ High and 30″ wide Mechanical UL Group II (or better) Lock with Standard Dial Custom Interior Suitable for Scoped Guns with Long Barrels Internal (sandwiched) Insulator, Reinforced if Sheet-rock Slide-out Drawers for Handguns Low Gloss, Rust-resistant External Finish |
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Tags: Dial Lock, Fire-Proof Safe, Gun Safe, Liberty Safe, Relocker, Rotary Lock, SHOT Business, Vauilt
“Electronic and biometric keypads provide quicker access — but be sure to replace the batteries every year.”
HEADS-UP! If you go beyond 6 MONTHs you are asking for a rude awakening when the safe does not open, and you need it to right then and there (i.e., when there is an IMMEDIATE need to access). Suggest you invest in a decent voltmeter or multimeter and check the battery (ies) BEFORE you install. A 9v battery should be well above 9.0v when installed, mine test at about 9.58-9.64. NEVER use rechargeable lithium, only known-good-quality alkaline.
Also, most strongly consider a dual/redundant-lock – a dial/manual and an electronic. If you already have a safe with only electronics or only mechanical/dial, consider this one that I used on my older safe (the newer one has separate dial and keypad) – https://securamsys.com/products/safelogic-xtreme-emp-proof – or $176 less here (https://mbausa.com/safelogic-xtreme-swing-bolt-lock-package-w-chrome-keypad-rh-mounting/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw3NyxBhBmEiwAyofDYYr5fkOXzlp1X3nJ-FZa_5bEmGiWtRaAMBPvDY3DxzsNUaxNG3-AVhoCjX0QAvD_BwE)