Here’s good news for hunters — Both Browning and Winchester are offering 25% Off Rebates (worth up to $50 max) on select hunting ammunition for the 2024 fall season. Qualify with ammo purchases made from 9/15/24 through 11/20/2024. For both rebate offers there is a minimum one box purchase and maximum rebate amount of $50 per household. The deadline is 12/16/2024 to mail in your original UPC codes, original retail sales receipt, and completed redemption form.
Winchester 25% Off Hunting Ammunition Rebate
Winchester is now offering, for a limited time, a 25% Off rebate on all eligible hunting rifle ammunition prior to the start of the season. The offer is valid on qualifying purchases made between September 15, 2024 and November 30, 2024. The maximum rebate amount is $50 per household. Visit Winchester.com/Rebates to learn how to submit your rebate.
Eligible Winchester Hunting Ammo Types:
Winchester Deer Season XP®, Power-Point®, Copper Impact®, Ballistic Silvertip® and Expedition Big Game™ hunting rifle brands.
Browning 25% Off Hunting Ammunition Rebate
Browning is also running a Hunting Rifle Ammunition Rebate for the next 10 weeks. Browning offers a 25% Off rebate on all eligible hunting rifle ammunition prior to the start of the season. The offer is valid on qualifying purchases made between September 15, 2024 and November 30, 2024. The maximum rebate amount is $50 per household. Visit BrowningAmmo.com/Rebates to learn how to submit your rebate.
Eligible Browning Hunting Ammo Types:
Browning Hunting Rifle Silver Series, Max Point, Long Range Pro, Long Range Hunter, BXS, and BXV
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We like air rifles both for fun shooting and for competition. However, so many options are now available that is easy to get overwhelmed with the choices. Thankfully, there is a good book that helps air rifle shooters make informed decisions about air guns and accessories. Steve Markwith’s comprehensive resource, Air Rifles: A Buyer’s and Shooter’s Guide offers a wealth of useful information. This 154-page book is now available for $14.48 (paperback) or $9.95 (Kindle)..
“This is a very informative book explaining the ins and outs of air rifles, their capabilities and limitations. I highly recommend this book to anyone considering purchasing an air rifle for marksmanship practice or small game hunting.” – L. Stanek, Verified Amazon Reviewer
Read Free Sample Chapters Online
If you go to Amazon.com and look right below the book cover photo, you’ll see a “READ SAMPLE” button. Click that to view a FREE preview with extensive samples from many chapters. The book covers all the most important types of air rifle systems, both pre-charged pneumatics and other self-charging guns. Markwith reviews the wide variety of pellets available, offering suggestions for particular applications. You’ll also find a useful discussion of Airgun Power, Range, and Accuracy. This will help you pick the right air rifle.
Markwith explains the many attractions of airguns. They are not considered firearms (in most jurisdictions) so they can be purchased at local shops or mail-order outlets without FFL fees or background checks. You’ll find a huge online selection of airguns at PyramydAir.com that can ship direct to you — no FFL required. Air rifles are also quiet and very inexpensive to shoot. While .177 and .22 caliber air rifles are most common, there are also larger-caliber airguns offered for hunting or special applications.
Pyramyd Air has dozens of helpful videos about air rifles and air pistols.
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If you’ve been thinking about a big purchase at Brownells, here are some money-saving codes. Brownells is currently offering $125 Off a $1000 purchase, $55 Off a $500 purchase, $20 Off a $200 purchase, $15 Off a $150 purchase, and $10 Off a $100 purchase. In addition, you can get 10% off all purchases of $150 or more. It’s simple to get these discounts — there are no buyers’ clubs to join, no forms to fill out. Just use the appropriate Discount Code during online check-out.
Listed below are the Codes to use. Simply use the appropriate Code for your purchase at Brownells.com. These codes have no listed expiration date, so Brownells could terminate them at any time. Accordingly, we recommend you do your shopping soon. Also if the highest value code no longer works, try a lesser value CODE.
Coupon Code: SEPT125 — $125 Off $1000+
Expiration date: 9/30/2024
Coupon Code: SEPT55 — $55 Off $500+
Expiration date: 9/30/2024
Coupon Code: SEPT20 — $20 Off $200+
Expiration date: 9/30/2024
NOTE: None of the above codes include FREE or Discounted Shipping. You may want to check other vendors such as Scheels.com which offer free shipping with certain minimum purchases ($75 mininum at Scheels). This might result in a lower overall price than purchasing from Brownells.
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Our friend Robert Whitley of ARX Enterprises LLC has learned, through careful measurement and testing, that some barrels threaded 5/8″ x 24 TPI at the muzzle may not deliver optimal accuracy. The reason is that the end of the barrel can bell out slightly, like a trombone, because too much steel has been removed. This is particularly true with .30-caliber barrels, but it can also be a problem with smaller caliber barrels (even 6mm). Robert demonstrates this phenomenon in the video below. All gunsmiths, and anyone considering threading a barrel, should watch the video. At 1:00 – 1:30 Robert gauges a 5/8″ x 24-threaded .30-Caliber barrel. You can see the belling effect clear as day.
“When setting up a commercial barrel in the lathe, we noticed that the maximum-sized bushing that would fit in the bore at the chamber end was almost .0015” smaller [than what would fit] at the muzzle. That precipitated my pin-gauging of a number of different commercial barrels that were threaded for 5/8” x 24 TPI. What I found is what’s shown on the video.” – R. Whitley
Solve Problem with a Larger Thread Diameter
If 5/8″ x 24 threading is potentially harmful to accuracy, is there a solution? Yes, you simply need to leave a little more steel on the barrel. (See Video starting at 02:40.) Frank Green of Bartlein barrels states: “We get these questions all the time. I say run the largest thread diameter that is possible.” Robert Whitley has found that a 3/4″ x 28 TPI threading does not cause the “belling effect”. Accordingly Robert recommends 3/4″ x 28 if you need to thread your barrel for a muzzle brake or suppressor. Robert explains: “We only make 3/4” x 28 TPI muzzle brakes and that’s what we recommend to customers.”
“See how much meatier the 3/4″ threading is vs. the 5/8″. The 3/4″ threading offers a lot more metal around the bore. There’s a lot less opportunity for the bore to become bell-mouthed…” – Robert Whitley
Barrel Threading Diameter — What’s Important to Know
By Robert Whitley
In truth, the 5/8″ x 24 TPI threading never came out of any accuracy-based think tank or set-up, it’s a military .30-Cal threading for barrels that someone has to carry around (they needed to keep the barrel weight down so it was smaller in diameter and the threading had to work with that situation). People have somehow assumed because the military uses that threading for certain things that it must mean that it’s also fine for a highly accurate rifle too, but that’s not really correct.
I don’t think there is any better and realistic option than the 3/4″ muzzle threading, and we also do it so there is no relief cut behind the threads on the barrel (i.e. put the relief cut on the brake or jam nut, don’t chop down on the muzzle of the barrel). For some reason many have a hard time grasping that the metal at the muzzle end of a rifle is “sacred” and you should not cut it down any more than absolutely necessary. A little threaded pencil diameter nub on the end of a barrel is not ideal for accuracy especially if it’s threaded and you need to torque on it. I cringe when I see a barrel with something like an MTU or Heavy Varmint contour, only to have an itty-bitty pencil thin threaded nub right at the muzzle so someone can “screw on a can” or a muzzle brake.
Lessons Learned Over the Years
A number of years ago I did a 30BR rifle project with Craig Kostyshyn who was big in the 30BR game and he made some of the best 30BR rifle barrels for benchrest competition. When I did the project I wanted a medium-heavy Palma type contour barrel I could use and also have a muzzle turndown for a front sight band. When he found out I was going to have the muzzle turned down he said “whoa, I need to provide for that when I make the barrel because if you turn the front down later you’ll be shooting a trombone” (i.e. the muzzle bore dimension would open up).
What he did was rough contour the barrel with the turndown (about .010” oversize) before he lapped the barrel, then when he lapped the barrel he took it easy in the muzzle area and worked the back of the barrel more. I thought he was a little bit excessive in his concerns but the barrel shot great and I wasn’t going to argue with him, after all he was shooting groups in the ones. I kind of just filed that away and never thought about it until recently when I went to have Fred from Sabreco do some chamber re-work on a commercial .30-caliber barrel I had. When setting up the barrel in the lathe and indicating things Fred noticed that the maximum-sized bushing that would fit in the bore at the chamber end was almost .0015″ smaller [than what would fit] at the muzzle and he mentioned it to me. That precipitated my pin-gauging of a number of different commercial barrels I had that were threaded for 5/8” x 24 TPI. What I found is what’s shown on the video.
NOTE: This is a copyrighted article. Do not reproduce or re-link more than 75 words without written permission from AccurateShooter.com.
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At the request of our readers, we provide select “Deals of the Week”. Every Sunday afternoon or Monday morning we offer our Best Bargain selections. Here are some of the best deals on firearms, hardware, reloading components, optics, and shooting accessories. Be aware that sale prices are subject to change, and once clearance inventory is sold, it’s gone for good. You snooze you lose.
NOTE: All listed products are for sale to persons 18 years of age or older. No products are intended for use by minors.
1. Palmetto SA — FREE 9mm Pistol with SIG Rifle or Handgun
⏺ Get a FREE SIG Sauer P365 or P320 pistol with SIG gun purchase
Buy a gun, get a FREE gun. Here’s the deal — if you buy a specific SIG Sauer rifle or pistol you can get a FREE SIG P365 or P320 pistol. Customers who purchase a qualifying MCX-Regulator rifle, MCX-Spear rifle, or P226-XFIVE pistol will receive a SIG P365, P320-M17, or P320-M18 pistol through an online redemption offer at SIGSauer.com. CLICK HERE for details and list of qualifying purchases. You can purchase the qualifying guns through Palmetto State Armory or other licensed gun vendor.
2. Midsouth — Leupold VX-3HD Scope Sale with $100 Savings
⏺ Good scope for hunting rifles now $100 Off
If you need a new scope for a game-hunting or varmint rifle, check out the VX-3HD Line from Leupold. Right now Midsouth is offering a huge $100 discount on four popular Leupold VX-3HD scopes. Plus you get FREE shipping. Chose the 3.5-10x40mm, 3.5-10x50mm, 4.5-14x40mm, or 4.5-14x50mm, all with 1″ diameter main tubes.
3. Precision Reloading — Major Sierra Bullet Sale, All Calibers
Right now Precision Reloading is running a major sale on Sierra Bullets. There are significant savings on the full range of bullet weights and calibers — from .204 to .457. Save 12% or more this week. Choose from lightweight varmint bullets or high-BC match bullets in popular competition calibers: .224, 6mm, 6.5mm, 7mm, and .308. NOTE: Sierra Bullet Sale ends 9/22/2024.
4. Amazon — Frankford Arsenal Depriming Tool, $39.99
⏺ Convenient tool — no press needed to deprime anywhere
Decapping fired brass can be tedious when using a reloading press and decapping die. Make things easier with the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Hand Deprimer Tool (#ad). You can deprime cases while watching TV. This handheld unit features an easily removable spent primer catch tube and an assisted-ejection case holder for easy removal of deprimed cases. The handle is spring-loaded to return the deprimer to the start position automatically.
Shooting waterfowl demands a rugged, accurate shotgun that won’t punish you with recoil. The Franchi 28″ Affinity Black 12ga Semi-Automatic Shotgun handles great and can shoot modern, full-size 3.5″ shells. Recoil is quite manageable — the quality TSA buttpad combined with the Franchi Inertia Drive system absorb up to 50% of perceived recoil. The shotgun has a ventilated rib barrel with red fiber-optic front sight. This Franchi shotgun ships with Improved Cylinder, Modified, and Full chokes plus choke wrench.
6. Amazon — Lyman Trigger Pull Gauge, $47.48
⏺ Very popular trigger gauge is accurate and easy to use
Lyman’s patented Digital Trigger Pull Gauge (#ad) is designed to be the fastest and most accurate trigger pull gauge available. This accurate electronic trigger gauge can register from 1 ounce all the way up to 12 pounds pull weight, with accuracy to the tenth of an ounce. That makes it ideal for all firearms types. This unit features a retractable pull rod to prevent damage. We like this Lyman tool and recommend it.
7. Scheels — Berry’s 400 Tumbler, $64.99
⏺ High-quality tumbler plus free shipping with $75 total purchase
Tumbling brass takes a strong machine that gets the job done quickly. The Berry’s 400 Tumbler is made from premium parts. The large, smooth bowl helps with fast, efficient cleaning while the clear lid lets you check progress easily. The motor has a 3-year warranty while other parts come with a lifetime warranty. NOTE: Currently Scheels offers FREE Shipping with a purchase of $75.00 or more. Add cleaning media ($17.99) to your cart and you can get FREE Shipping for both items.
Whether you’re working on your next firearm build or performing routine maintenance in your shop, the Wheeler Engineering 30-Piece SAE/Metric Hex and Torx P-Handle Set (#ad) is a great addition to your workbench. The stand design allows quick access, and the holder assembly can even be mounted on a wall. The tool handles are color-coded for type, and the front of the holder has clear/bright labels for size and type of each tool. This 30-piece set offers a full range of SAE Mex, Metric Hex, and Torx drivers.
8. Amazon — Lyman Micro-Touch 1500 Scale, $67.87
⏺ Good compact scale with touch screen
Every handloader can use a compact but precise scale. Get all the features of much larger models combined with state-of-the-art touch screen controls with the Lyman Micro-Touch 1500 Scale (#ad). It is just 3.25″ wide by 5.4″ long and 1.25″ tall. This digital reloading scale has a full 1500 grain capacity and is accurate to within 1/10 of a grain. The Micro-touch 1500 also includes its own powder pan and 100-gram calibration weight.
10. Amazon — Frankford Arsenal Gen 2 Reloading Trays
⏺ Quality cartridge-specific trays offer no-wobble fit
Ammo trays that fit cartridge brass very well definitely enhance the reloading process. We like the Frankford Arsenal Gen2 Reloading Trays (#ad) because they are sized for individual cartridge types (or a cartridge family) for a precise fit. These trays help hand-loaders maximize efficiency and stay organized. Sold in a convenient 2-pack, each tray securely holds 50 cases. Tray sizes are available for popular rifle and pistol cartridges: 9mm, .223 Rem, .38 SPL/.357 Mag, .38 Super/.40 SW, .45 ACP, .308 Win/6.5 CM, 7mm RemMag/.300 WinMag, and .338 Lapua/.45-70.
As an Amazon affiliate, this site can earn revenues through sales commissions.
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This can be very important — even life-saving. For example, with a hang fire, i.e. a round that does not fire immediately, it is vital to keep the gun pointed DOWN-RANGE. And with a squib load, which may have left a round inside the barrel, it is vital to UNLOAD and NOT take another shot! If you did, the gun could blow up in your hand when the second, full-charge bullet hits the trapped bullet.
The Five Topics Covered Are:
Misfeed (aka Tip-Up)
Double Feed
Stovepipe (Failure to Extract)
Misfire / Hangfire
Squib Load
1. Misfeed or Tip-Up: With any misfeed you should stop firing. With the muzzle pointed safely down-range, remove the magazine, then pull the slide back and remove the round that did not feed. Check the slide for dirt, debris, and check the round that did not feed. After re-inserting the magazine, make sure the mag is seated properly.
2. Double-Feed: This is a fairly common issue with some gun types with worn springs or cheap magazines. Again you want to remove the magazine. CTD states: “Remove the magazine and cycle the action until your double-fed rounds fall out — always keeping the muzzle pointed in a safe direction[.]”
3. Stove-Pipe: This occurs when the case of a fired round does not eject fully. There can be many causes — damaged extractor, low-pressure powder charge, dirty chamber, or greasy cartridge brass. In addition the issue is common with old, worn-out recoil springs. To avoid Stove-Pipes, replace the recoil spring every 4000 rounds, and make sure your chamber is clean and the extractor is not chipped or damaged.
4. Misfires and Hang-Fires: There are multiple causes for misfires (“click no bang”) and hang-fires (slow ignition). There can be a defective primer, the firing pin could be damaged, the powder many have been bad, or the case not filled properly. With a misfire, keep the gun pointed down-range at least one minute. If the case does not fire, eject it but leave it on the ground. With a hang-fire (delayed ignition after firing pin strike), keep the gun pointed down-range, then drop the magazine and eject the (new) unfired cartridge in the chamber and inspect the gun when completely empty.
5. Squib Load: A squib load is when the gun fires, but the actual case ignition is very light with little noise, smoke, or recoil. This can be because the case had a primer but no powder. Or it can be because the powder did not ignite. Squib loads can be very dangerous in rapid-fire situations. If you EVER get a squib load STOP immediately! Do NOT fire another round! This is because the squib may have left a bullet inside the barrel.
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Ever wondered what the air around a moving supersonic bullet really looks like? Check out this video from the Bryan Litz Ballistics Facebook page. This is a Schlieren video* of a 6mm 109gr Berger LRHT bullet at about 2800 fps as fired from Francis Colon’s PRS rifle at the Applied Ballistics Lab.
Bryan Litz notes: “You can clearly see the compression (shock) wave at the front of the bullet. A compression wave is formed when the air has to move faster than the speed of sound to get out of the way, which is certainly the case for this bullet which is moving about 2.5 times the speed of sound (Mach 2.5).
That shock wave is the ‘snap’ you hear when bullets fly past you if/when you’re downrange. Also, compressing the air into a shockwave takes energy, and that energy comes directly out of the forward velocity of your bullet and gets converted into heat and noise as the shock wave forms and dissipates.
The turbulent wake at the base of the bullet shows where/how base drag applies. The third and smallest component of drag for a supersonic bullet is skin friction drag, which is a viscous boundary layer effect, and is the least visible in this image. So as you head to the range or the hunting stand, think about the absolute violence your bullets are committing in the atmosphere, before they even reach the target!”
Today, AR-platform rifles are hugely popular. Dozens of manufacturers sell AR-type rifles, in a wide variety of configurations and calibers. But before there were M16s and AR-15s, ArmaLite produced a 7.62×51 caliber rifle, the AR-10. Yes before there were millions of 5.56 black rifles, there was a .30-caliber big brother with reddish-brown furniture. Invented by Eugene (‘Gene’) Stoner for the Armalite company in the late 1950s, this is the father of all of today’s AR-platform rifles. Way ahead of its time, this remarkable, select-fire battle rifle weighed just 7.25 pounds as first developed.
If you’re curious about the AR-10, in this video, Jerry Miculek puts an original 1957-vintage AR-10 through its paces on the range. This extremely rare, early-production rifle was provided by Mr. Reed Knight and the Institute of Military Technology. (The gun in the video was actually produced in the Netherlands under license, see video at 4:40.) This AR-10 is the direct ancestor of the AR-15, M16, and many of the modern sporting rifles that we use today.
The AR-10 was slim and light, weighing around 7 pounds. Some folks might argue that the original “old-school” AR-10 is actually better than some of today’s heavy, gadget-laden ARs. The AR-10’s charging “lever” was under the carry handle — that made it easier to manipulate with the gun raised in a firing position.
You’ll notice there is no “forward assist”. Inventor Gene Stoner did not believe a separate “bolt-pusher” was necessary. The forward assist was added to solve problems encountered in Viet Nam. Some critics say the forward assist “only takes a small problem and makes it a big problem.” For today’s competition ARs (that are never dragged through the mud) the forward assist probably is superfluous. It is rarely if ever needed.
Note also that the handguards are fairly slim and tapered. Today, six decades after the first AR-10 prototypes, we are now seeing these kind of slim handguards (made from aluminum or lightweight composites) used on “full race” ARs campaigned in 3-gun competition.
History of the AR-10
The AR-10 is a 7.62 mm battle rifle developed by Eugene Stoner in the late 1950s at ArmaLite, then a division of the Fairchild Aircraft Corporation. When first introduced in 1956, the AR-10 used an innovative straight-line barrel/stock design with phenolic composite and forged alloy parts resulting in a small arm significantly easier to control in automatic fire and over one pound lighter than other infantry rifles of the day. Over its production life, the original AR-10 was built in relatively small numbers, with fewer than 9,900 rifles assembled.
In 1957, the basic AR-10 design was substantially modified by ArmaLite to accommodate the .223 Remington cartridge, and given the designation AR-15. ArmaLite licensed the AR-10 and AR-15 designs to Colt Firearms. The AR-15 eventually became the M16 rifle.
AR-10 3D Model Shows Internal Parts
If you want to see more close-up details of the AR-10, computer artist Stefan Engdahl has created a very detailed 3D model of the AR-10 for use in computer simulations. This computer model features 18 separate objects so you can look at details of frame, barrel, trigger, sights and more.
Here are some additional images of early AR-10 models, with various configurations. Multiple handguard and muzzle options were employed during early development.
Color AR-10 photos from Arms Izarra, a Spanish company specializing in de-militarized, collectible firearms. Interestingly, this particular AR-10 was produced in the Netherlands under license.
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A while back, the Precision Rifle Blog conducted a fascinating study of Muzzle Brakes. PRB figured out a way to show the actual “blast pattern” of gasses ejecting from the ports of muzzle brakes. The result was a fascinating (and eye-catching) series of images revealing the distinctive gas outflows of 20+ different types of muzzle brakes. If you are considering buying and installing a muzzle brake on your rifle, you should definitely review this important PRB Muzzle Brake Test.
For a prone shooter, particularly on dusty, dirty or sandy ground, muzzle blast is a major bummer. Muzzle blast can be very disturbing — not just for the trigger-puller but for persons on either side of the gun as well. Some muzzle brakes send a huge shockwave back towards the shooter, and others send blast towards the ground, kicking dirt and debris into the prone shooter’s face. If there was a way to illustrate those factors — shockwave and debris — that might help shooters select one brake design over another.
Cal Zant at PrecisionRifleBlog.com applied a unique blend of creativity and resourcefulness to try to answer that question for 20+ muzzle brakes. Using high-speed photography and household products, he captured the blast pattern of 20+ different brake designs for easy side-by-side comparison. Can you figure out how Cal managed to show muzzle brake blasts so clearly? His “hi-viz” solution, revealed in the article, is very clever. See the eye-opening results for 20+ brakes, with illustrative photos, by visiting the Precision Rifle Blog Muzzle Brake Ground Signature Test Page.
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Do you need to find an FFL for a firearms transfer in your local area? Or perhaps you are selling a gun and need it shipped to an FFL in another city or state. Thankfully, there are two good online resource that can, in a matter of seconds, provide a list of Federal Firearms License holders in the area you need. These web resources will even locate those FFLs on a map AND list the fees they typically charge for transfers.
Sportsman’s Guide FFL Finder
The first resource is the Sportsman’s Guide FFL LOOKUP Page. This online search tool is fast and easy to use. Simply enter a Zip Code and then select a radius (in miles) within which to find FFLs. Here is an example for Billings, Montana with Zip Code 59103. Note that the transfer fees are listed for the first three “In-Network” FFLs. Click on each FFL business name to get more details.
Gunbroker FFL Finder
A good second resource is offered by GunBroker, the online gun trading/auction site. Gunbroker offers a handy online FFL Finder. This resource allows you to quickly find an FFL by zip code or state. Along with the FFL business name, this also lists fees. Click the “Map It” button to see a local map.
Gunbroker states: “Use our FFL Finder to locate FFL dealers in your area. You can search for FFL dealers by your zip code or by state. Use our FFL finder to get in touch with a local FFL dealer in order to complete your firearms purchase, or sign up to be part of our FFL Dealer Network.”
Shown below are the FFL Finder results for Billings, Montana and Zip Code 59103:
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Hunting season is coming soon. For hunters that means many hours may be spent searching for animals through spotting scopes and binoculars — “glassing” for game. And when the hunter does find a good buck or doe, he’ll need to know the animal’s precise distance, so that demands a good laser rangefinder. Being carried in the field, the scopes on hunting rifles need to be tough and durable, and every hunting scope should have excellent low-light performance. And when the hunter finally takes his shot, his scope better be properly zeroed. Today’s Saturday showcase spotlights Hunting Optics. We offer eight great videos that help you select the right riflescope, spotting scope, rangefinder, and binoculars for your next hunt.
Here’s a good video by an avid hunter who treks in remote, mountainous zones. The host has learned what works… and what’s worth the weight to carry: “I’ve found that the combination of 10×42 binoculars and a 27–60x80mm spotting scope is the sweet spot for mountain hunting. This pairing balances weight with reach, allowing me to keep moving but also reach out and see well-hidden animals. In some cases, I will make use of an 18×56 binocular, but this is reserved for non-backpack hunts. With 25 years of mountain hunting experience, I can whole-heartedly recommend my preferred binocular pair as a fantastic and versatile set-up for northern mountain hunts at the very least.”
Ultimate Spotter Test — 19 Spotting Scopes Reviewed
The producers of this remarkable 19-product spotting scope comparison state: “If you are looking at choosing the best spotting scope for hunting… you are in the right place! We tested these 19 spotting scopes to find the best compact spotting scope, best 65mm spotting scope, and best 85mm spotting scope out there. We also wanted to find the best values on the market, and I think we definitely did that. While we certainly couldn’t test them ALL, we were able to put together this incredible lineup of some of the best spotting scopes out there to help you find what is going to work for your specific needs.”
First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes
For the last century, Second Focal Plane (SFP) scopes have been most common on hunting rifles. Now there are an increasing number of First Focal Plane (FFP) optics favored by hunters. The main reason is that the reticle mark values (in Mils or MOA) are constant relative to the target size at all magnification levels. That is handy for hold-offs and hold-overs. On the other hand, a SFP scope maintains a constant reticle size and line thickness at all zoom values. For most hunting shots, taken inside 300 yards, that really should be fine. Many hunters feel they can spot their prey more easily without a busy reticle that obscures small details at higher magnification. This video explains the pros and cons of both reticle types. The final decision is up to you — much will depend on the terrain you hunt and the distances you shoot.
The Complete Optics Selection for For Deer Hunting
In this video, Vortex optics techs explain the optics package deer hunters will want to take into the field. Along with a good medium-power zoom riflescope, you’ll want binoculars and (probably) a spotting scope. You’ll also want a Laser Rangefinder (LRF) or laser-equipped binoculars. As the team points out, the LRF is not just to range your prey right before you take a shot. A top-quality LRF can range a reflective object as far as 1500 yards away. That helps you decide whether you want to hike a mile to reach that buck you see way out on the next ridge.
MOA vs. MIL — What You Need to Know
These days, scope manufacturers offer a wide selection of both MIL (Milliradian) and MOA (Minute-of-Angle) based optics. We do think that MOA is still predominant in the lighter-weight, lower-cost (sub-$500) scopes marketed for hunters. There are pros and cons for both angular measurement systems. One MIL is 3.6″ at 100 yards, while one MOA is 1.047″ at 100 yards. If you grew up thinking in inches, a 1/4-MOA click-value hunting scope might work best. If you shoot PRS or have other MIL scopes you may prefer a MIL-value optic for your hunting rifle. Both choices will do the job.
Comparison of Eight Laser Rangefinders
The Backfire team purchased eight rangefinders and tested them in the field. Most of the products are under $500. This is a good review if you are looking for a compact LRF at a moderate price. Looking at performance for the price, for the hunting market, the reviewers favored the Leupold RX-1600 and the waterproof Vortex Ranger 1800. COMMENTARY: If you can afford it, we recommend that serious hunters consider top-end laser rangefinder-equipped binoculars such as the ZEISS Victory RF and Leica Geovid.
How to Zero Your Hunting Rifle Efficiently
Last but not least, here’s a great video from Vortex that shows you how to quickly and efficiently sight-in and zero your hunting rifle before heading out into the field. This video explains a simple procedure that lets you get a solid zero in just three shots. Of course you probably want to fire a few more rounds to confirm your zero before you head off to your hunting grounds, but this will let you get on-target with a minimum amount of time and ammo expended. This helpful video has over 3 million views on YouTube!
Fouling Shots and Cold Bore Condition
If you recently cleaned your rifle, you may want to fire two or three fouling shots before you start this procedure. But keep in mind that you want to duplicate the typical cold bore conditions that you’ll experience during the hunt. If you set your zero after three fouling shots, then make sure the bore is in a similar condition when you actually go out hunting.
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Do you know which one of your eyes is dominant? It’s easy to determine eye dominance with a simple exercise. Pick an object about 6-10 feet away (a light switch or door knob works well). Make an “OK” sign with your right hand (see photo) and hold that about 18″ from your face. Now, with both eyes open, look through the circle formed by your thumb and index finger. Center the circle on the object, so you can see the object in the middle.
Now, here’s the important part — while still holding your hand up, centered on the object, first close your right eye. If you don’t see the object anymore, then your right eye is dominant. If you still see the object, then repeat the procedure with the left eye shut and right eye open. If you don’t see the object when your left eye (only) is closed, then you are left-eye dominant.
The digital archives of Shooting Sports USA contain many interesting articles. A while back, Shooting Sports USA featured a “must-read” expert Symposium on Eye Dominance, as it affects both rifle and pistol shooting. No matter whether you have normal dominance (i.e. your dominant eye is on the same side as your dominant hand), or if you have cross-dominance, you’ll benefit by reading this excellent article. The physiology and science of eye dominance is explained by Dr. Norman Wong, a noted optometrist. In addition, expert advice is provided by champion shooters such as David Tubb, Lones Wigger, Dennis DeMille, Julie Golob, Jessie Harrison, and Phil Hemphill. NOTE: If the story doesn’t open at the links, go to the ssusa.org home page first, indicate you are over 18, and then CLICK HERE.
Top Rifle Champions Talk About Eye Dominance:
David Tubb — 11-Time National High Power Champion
I keep both eyes open, always. Some use an opaque blinder in rifle or shotgun shooting. If you close your non-dominant eye, you will not get as good a sight picture. If your aiming eye is not your dominant eye, you have even more of a problem to overcome.
Lones Wigger — World, National and Olympic Champion Rifleman
Shooters should try to use the dominant eye unless the vision is impaired and the non-dominant eye has better vision. You should always shoot with both eyes open since this will allow the shooting eye to function properly.
Dennis DeMille — National Service Rifle Champion
I close my non-shooting eye initially. Once I pick up my sight picture, it’s not something I focus on. For those that use a patch, I recommend that they use something white to block their view, rather than cover the eye.
Bruce Piatt — 2015 World Shooting Championship Winner
Some shooters, especially those with nearly equal or cross-dominance, will naturally find themselves squinting one eye. When anyone does this, you are also closing your dominant eye to some extent and adding stress to your face.
Share the post "Quickly Determine Your Dominant Eye with This Simple Test"
Do you know which one of your eyes is dominant? It’s easy to determine eye dominance with a simple exercise. Pick an object about 6-10 feet away (a light switch or door knob works well). Make an “OK” sign with your right hand (see photo) and hold that about 18″ from your face. Now, with both eyes open, look through the circle formed by your thumb and index finger. Center the circle on the object, so you can see the object in the middle.
