“Science tells us that exposure to continuous noise of 85 dB for eight hours is enough to cause permanent hearing loss, and worse, spikes of 130 dB and more can result in permanent hearing damage instantly.” Source: NRA Blog.
The Risk of Hearing Loss
Hearing loss can be progressive and irreversible. If you are a shooter, this is serious business. As the NRA Blog cautions: “You may not even realize you’re harming your hearing. Hearing loss occurs gradually, and can go effectively unnoticed until symptoms become severe. By then, the damage is done.”Effective hearing protection is a must whenever you are shooting firearms or when you are in the vicinity of gun-shots. For ultimate protection, we recommend a good set of tapered foam earplugs, topped by ear-muffs. However, there are situations when you may prefer lighter-weight hearing protection that can be quickly removed. For example, if you are standing well behind the firing line as an observer, or if you are working as a rangemaster or waddie some distance away from the shooters.”
Sound Levels for Common Noises:
9mm Luger pistol: 160 dB
Jet aircraft engine (near): 140 dB
.22 LR pistol: 134 dB
Normal human pain threshold: 120 dB
Noisy Nightclub: 110 db
Riding Motorcycle at 65 mph: 103 db
Power Lawnmower: 95 dB
Hearing damage possible: 85 dB (sustained for 8+ hours)
Ringing Telephone: 80 dB
Normal conversation: 60 dB
What about suppressors? If you use a suppressor is it OK to dispense with hearing protection? Not really. Even the most effective suppressors, on the smallest and quietest calibers (.22 LR), reduce the peak sound level of a gunshot to between 110 to 120 dB. To put that in perspective, according to the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), that is as loud as a jackhammer (110 dB) or an ambulance siren (120 dB). For normal caliber handguns and rifles, suppressed sound levels routinely exceed 130 dB, just shy of OSHA’s “hearing safe” threshold of 140 dB. Accordingly, we recommend use of hearing protection even when shooting suppressed.
Compact, Low-Profile NRR 27 dB-Rated Ear Muffs
Many hunters and competitive shooters prefer low-profile ear muffs. As these typically have a lower Noise Reduction Rating, perhaps NRR 22-27, we recommend running earplugs under muffs. If you use low-profile electronic muffs, such as Howard Leight Impact Sport Muffs, you should still be able to hear range commands even with plugs underneath.
Another good option for hunters and range visitors are hearing bands, basically earplugs connected with a semi-rigid plastic band. These banded products provide “quick access” hearing protection for hunters. You can keep them handy around the neck while spotting game, and then insert the plugs before shooting.
Howard Leight MAX NRR 33 Earplugs, Just $8.44 for 20 Pairs
These Howard Leight NRR 33 Max-1 Plugs are your Editor’s favorite foam earplugs. Between shooting, motorcycling and mowing lawns, I probably have Howard Leight foam plugs in my ears 3-4 days a week. They are comfortable and the flared outer edge helps the NRR. You can get 20 pairs for $8.44 on Amazon. There is also a Max-30 corded version, with the same excellent 33 dB Noise Reduction Rating. Get five pairs of Max-30 Corded Plugs for $5.99 on Amazon, or 100 pairs of Max-30s for $27.99.
Note, if you prefer thin, light-weight earmuffs, we recommend running earplugs underneath for double protection while shooting firearms (or when you’re on the firing line). Sound experts tell us that running plugs and muffs together can effectively improve your effective noise reduction by 4-7 dB NRR.
Watch this video to see how a sound suppressor (aka “silencer”, “moderator”, or “can”) is constructed, start to finish. It’s more complicated than you might expect — there are quite a few stages in the process. The video below shows the fabrication of a SilencerCo Octane 45 suppressor:
SilencerCo writes: “What, exactly, goes into making a silencer? It may be more than you’d expect. From cutting metal to chemical baths, to extensive quality control every step of the way, our streamlined process is more than just a few steps. Watch our newest video, HOW IT’S MADE: Octane 45, to catch a glimpse behind SilencerCo’s doors.”
How Loud Are Unsuppressed Rifles?
Firearms Are Loud — 140 dB to 175 dB. ASHA explains: “Almost all firearms create noise that is over the 140-dB level. Exposure to noise greater than 140 dB can permanently damage hearing. A small .22-caliber rifle can produce noise around 140 dB, while big-bore rifles and pistols can produce sound over 175 dB. Firing guns in a place where sounds can reverberate, or bounce off walls and other structures, can make noises louder and increase the risk of hearing loss. Also, adding muzzle brakes or other modifications can make the firearm louder. People who do not wear hearing protection while shooting can suffer a severe hearing loss with as little as one shot[.]” Source: ASHA, Recreational Firearm Noise Exposure.
How Much Does a Good Suppressor Really Reduce Firearm Sound Levels?
That depends on the rifle, the cartridge, and the effectiveness of the suppressor. American Hunter explains: “Suppressors retard the speed of propellant gases from the cartridge that rapidly expand and rush out of the barrel. It’s these gases that produce the loud boom that’s heard for miles. A suppressor’s series of internal baffles slows these gases so they are not all released at once, thereby muffling the sound.” Many good commercial suppressors can achieve 30-35 dB sound suppression. However, Zak Smith of Thunder Beast Arms says: “There are a bunch of manufacturers who publish values that are not reproducible, or use an ad-hoc test instead of a mil-spec test. In many cases we’ve tested the exact same suppressors they’ve advertised with 30-40 dB reductions and found they are actually in the high 20s instead.”
Again, for this reason, we recommend that hunters use ear protection, such as electronic muffs, even when shooting suppressed.
Bushnell Match Pro ED 15×56 Binocular with MRAD Reticle
Bushnell’s impressive Match Pro ED 15×56 binoculars are designed for precision and competition rifle shooters. These 15-power, high-magnification binoculars offer ED Prime glass and a proprietary, rotating Shot-Call MRAD reticle. This reticle allows fast shot calls and corrections — something important for PRS/NRL competition. Bushnell says these new 15×56 binoculars, when mounted securely, have “enough power to effectively replace your spotting scope with a wide field-of-view that puts less stress on your eyes and allows you to more easily observe projectile flight.”
Early prototype versions of the Match Pro ED 15×56 binocular proved their worth in PRS/NRL competition. Bushnell pro shooter Robert Brantley has used the Match Pro ED binocular in PRS matches where he won four consecutive Tactical Division titles. In this video, Brantley explains the key features of Bushnell’s 15X, reticle-equipped Match Pro ED binoculars:
“The … Match Pro binos offer the perfect setup for spotting and calling shots on the range,” said Brantley. “They offer … the ability to fine tune corrections with the Shot-Call reticle. It truly does offer the best of everything and I’m not ever going back to shooting without them.”
Two important features of the Match Pro ED binoculars are the Shot-Call reticle and BridgeSet Stabilizer. The offset MRAD reticle is designed for target sizing, ranging and follow-up shot correction. The reticle has a dedicated focus adjustment and can be rotated for leveling after IPD (interpupillary distance) adjustment. Users can lock in their preferred IPD with the integrated bridge-lock, which ensures the binoculars are set for quick use.
This unit has some cool features. The BridgeSet IPD stabilizer provides a barrel angle stop that keeps your inter-pupillary distance constant in the field. A first of its kind, the BridgeSet is like a zero stop for your binoculars. These binoculars also have dual adjustable diopters to keep both barrels perfectly focused. This is important because many folks have slightly different vision in their left vs. their right eyes.
Bushnell’s 15-power Match Pro ED binoculars boast fully multi-coated ED (Extra-Low Dispersion) Prime objective lenses and BaK4 Abbe-Koenig roof prisms with PC3 dielectric phase coatings to ensure 92% light transmission. These Match Pro ED binoculars also feature Bushnell’s EXO-Barrier for high resolution regardless of weather conditions. A rugged magnesium housing protects the internal mechanisms while IPX5 waterproof sealing shields the optics from moisture. Another very good feature is that you can mount a tripod adapter to either the front or rear bridges based on your preference. That’s handy. These binoculars weigh a hefty 56 ounces (3.5 pounds), so you’ll definitely want to mount them on a tripod.
These Bushnell Match Pro ED 15×56 binoculars are available for $699.99 at EuroOptic.com and other leading vendors. Plus EuroOptic is currently offering FREE shipping with orders over $250.00. The Match Pro ED 15×56 binocular is backed by Bushnell’s 20-year Lifetime Ironclad Warranty. CLICK HERE to see full product profile on Bushnell.com.
Do you have an Eliseo Tubegun that you use for sling-shooting competitions, but would like to try your hand at F-Class Open matches? Well here is a low-cost, yet very effective add-on that can transform your TubeGun into a serious F-Open rifle. The bolt-on rails also work great for load development if you want to use a front rest with 3″-wide front bag for greater stability and repeatability.
Competition Machine’s Gary Eliseo is a very smart designer as well as a talented shooter. The inventor/builder of the popular Competition Machine Tubegun chassis systems, Gary offers a bolt-on bag-rider accessory. Gary call this his PickleFork fore-end extension. The Pickleforks are rails that fit to the sides of the tubular fore-end/handguard on his chassis systems. This allows you to use a pedestal-style front rest for F-Class competition.
Pickleforks also provide a much more stable platform for load testing, varmint hunting, or any kind of rest-assisted precision shooting. These PickleForks transform a Tubegun into an ultra-stable, straight-tracking rig when used with a competition-style front rest.
Gary explains: “Now you can have the same super low-boreline, long ‘wheelbase’ and vertical sides of our innovative F1 F-Class chassis system for your tube chassis. The new PickleForks attach directly to the sides of the F-Class/Tactical fore-ends, no modifications are required. They are very rigid with no flex or twist and make the rifle track like it’s on rails.” The new Eliseo Competition Machine PickleForks are offered for a very reasonable $70.00 per pair, with Cerakote finish. (You get two metal units, one for each side of the fore-arm). For more information, visit www.GotXRing.com or call (928) 649-0742.
Product Tip from EdLongrange. We welcome reader submissions.
At the request of our readers, we provide select “Deals of the Week”. Every Sunday afternoon or Monday morning we offer our Best Bargain selections. Here are some of the best deals on firearms, hardware, reloading components, optics, and shooting accessories. Be aware that sale prices are subject to change, and once clearance inventory is sold, it’s gone for good. You snooze you lose.
NOTE: All listed products are for sale to persons 18 years of age or older. No products are intended for use by minors.
1. Creedmoor Sports — American Bullet Company Sale
⏺ Great deals on .224 and .308 bullets for training
Creedmoor Sports offers American Bullet Company bullets, made in the USA by major manufacturers. The “practice” bullets are factory seconds, sold at very attractive prices– up to 50% compared to first-run offerings. You may want to sort these practice bullets by weight and/or base-to ogive measurement. We think these are a good choice for M1 Garand, M1A, and 1903 Springfield shooters running .30-06 or .308 Win chamberings. And the .224 Cal 77gr Practice bullets are excellent for service rifle shooters. NOTE: There are also first-run (non-blem) 155gr and 175gr .308 Caliber “Match” Bullets on sale.
⏺ Excellent, rugged rifle case at a very good price
When flying or driving it’s vital to protect your rifles. A good hard case option (at a great price) is the APACHE 9800 Weatherproof Protective Rifle Case. On sale for $149.99, this 53″-long case is $190.00 less than an equivalent-size Pelican case. Constructed from durable polypropylene, this quality hard case can protect long guns from from impact, moisture, and dust. The built-in purge valve equalizes pressure so you can open the case after changing elevations. NOTE: Case interior dimensions are 50⅜” by 13⅝”.
3. Grafs.com — Frankford Arsenal F-1 Press, $103.99
⏺ Versatile press, good primer exit, plus built-in light
Here’s a handy, single-stage press with some cool features. The Frankford Arsenal F-1 press has an open front for easy case placement, plus a built-in LED lamp at the top. And after decapping, spent primers go straight down a tube into a handy, clear, twist-off catch cylinder (as on a Forster Co-Ax). We think this would be an excellent secondary press used for decapping or bullet seating. Priced at just $103.99 at Graf & Sons — this press is a GREAT deal, but act quick, supplies are limited. NOTE: This press does NOT have primer seating capability — you must prime cases with a separate tool. Also, the power cord for the LED light is NOT included. CLICK HERE for full Frankford Arsenal F-1 Press Review.
4. CDNN Sports — Winchester .22 LR Wildcat, $193.67
⏺ Fun rimfire rifle complete with optic — good owner reviews
Here’s a fun semi-auto .22 LR rifle at a crazy low price — $193.67 complete with a mounted Red Dot Reflex optic. That’s a steal for a reliable rimfire rig for plinking and NRL22 matches. The Winchester Wildcat takes Ruger 10/22 mags, and has some great features, such as field-removable lower receiver, ambidextrous controls, integral Picatinny rail, and rear barrel access. It has a good trigger and shoots well. In many respects the Wildcat beats the Ruger 10/22 while costing a lot less. If you don’t need the optic, you can get a basic Wildcat for $179.99 with Strata camo stock or $157.66 with OD Green stock.
5. Natchez — Norma TAC-22 .22LR Ammo, 50 rounds, $3.49
⏺ Very good .22 LR ammo at extremely low price — GREAT VALUE
If you love .22 LR rimfires and want quality ammo at an ultra-low price, grab some Norma TAC-22. At $3.49 for 50 rounds, this is a true bargain, yet the TAC-22 is good enough for NRL22 matches as well as fun target shooting. We’ve shot this Norma ammo and been very satisfied. You’ll be hard-pressed to find better .22 LR ammo at anywhere near this price. Don’t delay ordering — at this price, we expect this TAC-22 ammo will sell out soon. NOTE: On the Natchez website there is a reference to $0.17 per round. That is a TYPO. You get 50 rounds for $3.49, which works out to SEVEN cents per round ($0.0698 to be exact).
6. Amazon — Midland-EX37VP Radio Kit (Set of 2), $49.99
⏺ Quality Walkie-Talkies with good range and special Emergency functions
Having a good 2-way communication system is vital when hunting or wilderness hiking. And a pair of walkie-talkies really helps during shooting practices when a buddy goes downrange to set targets. A very good 2-Way radio system is the Midland-EX37VP E+Ready Emergency Two-Way Radio Kit (#ad). These walkie-talkies have a 26 mile range and feature 22 FRS (Family Radio Service) channels, along with channel scan. With this kit you get vital E+Ready Emergency functionality, plus NOAA weather alerts — important in the event of a natural disaster.
7. Amazon — Caldwell AR-500 Steel Targets, starting at $14.92
⏺ Great deals on durable AR500 steel targets — watch video below right
Caldwell’s bright, easy-to-see steel targets come in multiple shapes and sizes for competition, training, and recreational use. Made of AR-500 grade hardened steel, these bright yellow targets can withstand thousands of rounds. Rated up to a 3000 fps impact velocity and a 3500 ft-lb impact energy, these targets come in seven styles and sizes with three hanging solutions. These bright yellow Caldwell AR500 Steel Targets (#ad) are on sale now on Amazon, starting at just $14.92 for the 5″ Gong Target.
8. Amazon — Deyace Extra Large Shooting Mat, $37.99
⏺ Nice, relatively big shooting mat with good padding
When shooting prone, you need a good shooting mat. The Deyace Extra Large padded shooting mat (#ad) is a great value for just $37.99. Measuring a generous 78″x28.5″, this XL mat has nice padding for elbows and knees, and the mat folds up nicely for transport. This mat is offered in four colors: Green, Tan, Tan Camo, and Black. For transport, we like this mat’s integral straps and carry handle.
How many times have you grabbed your electronic earmuffs only to find the batteries are dead. To avoid the hassles (and cost) of battery replacement, consider Walker’s Rechargeable Razor Ear Muffs (#ad). These rechargeable muffs have an estimated 80 hours of run time. That’s enough to get through several DAYS at the range. Then you can recharge the muffs conveniently at home or in your vehicle. To hear range commands clearly, the muffs have HD speakers. Plus there’s a handy audio jack. These muffs are comfortable and boast a 21 dB Noise Reduction Rating (NRR).
10. Amazon — 6 Inch Calipers w/ Extra Large Screen, $29.98
⏺ Big screen is a big plus with these Digital Calipers
Every handloader can use a good set of digital calipers (#ad). With an extra large, high-contrast LCD display, these Jiavarry digital calipers show bigger numbers that are easier to read. That help ensure you don’t make mistakes. These calipers have a good Lithium battery and offer ample 0-6 inch (0-150mm) measuring range with ±0.02 mm/0.001″ resolution.
As an Amazon affiliate, this site can earn revenues through sales commissions.
Here’a useful article by Sierra Bullets Media Relations Manager Carroll Pilant. This story, which originally appeared in the Sierra Bullets Blog, covers some of the more common ammo problems that afflict hand-loaders. Some of those issues are: excessive OAL, high primers, and improperly-sized cases. Here Mr. Pilant explains how to avoid these common problems that lead to “headaches at the range.
I had some gentlemen at my house last fall getting rifle zeros for an upcoming elk hunt. One was using one of the .300 short mags and every 3rd or 4th round would not chamber. Examination of the case showed a bulge right at the body/shoulder junction. These were new cases he had loaded for this trip. The seating die had been screwed down until it just touched the shoulder and then backed up just slightly. Some of the cases were apparently slightly longer from the base to the datum line and the shoulder was hitting inside the seating die and putting the bulge on the shoulder. I got to thinking about all the gun malfunctions that I see each week at matches and the biggest percentage stem from improper handloading techniques.
One: Check Your Cases with a Chamber Gage
Since I shoot a lot of 3-gun matches, I see a lot of AR problems which result in the shooter banging the butt stock on the ground or nearest solid object while pulling on the charging handle at the same time. I like my rifles too well to treat them that way (I cringe every time I see someone doing that). When I ask them if they ran the ammo through a chamber gage, I usually get the answer, “No, but I need to get one” or “I didn’t have time to do it” or other excuses. The few minutes it takes to check your ammo can mean the difference between a nightmare and a smooth running firearm.
A Chamber Gauge Quickly Reveals Long or Short Cases
Size Your Cases Properly
Another problem is caused sizing the case itself. If you will lube the inside of the neck, the expander ball will come out a lot easier. If you hear a squeak as the expander ball comes out of a case neck, that expander ball is trying to pull the case neck/shoulder up (sometimes several thousandths). That is enough that if you don’t put a bulge on the shoulder when seating the bullet … it can still jam into the chamber like a big cork. If the rifle is set up correctly, the gun will not go into battery and won’t fire but the round is jammed into the chamber where it won’t extract and they are back to banging it on the ground again (with a loaded round stuck in the chamber). A chamber gage would have caught this also.
Oversizing cases also causes problems because the firing pin doesn’t have the length to reach the primer solid enough to ignite it 100% of the time. When you have one that is oversized, you usually have a bunch, since you usually do several cases at a time on that die setting. If the die isn’t readjusted, the problem will continue on the next batch of cases also. They will either not fire at all or you will have a lot of misfires. In a bolt action, a lot of time the extractor will hold the case against the face of the breech enough that it will fire. The case gets driven forward and the thinner part of the brass expands, holding to the chamber wall and the thicker part of the case doesn’t expand as much and stretches back to the bolt face. If it doesn’t separate that time, it will the next time. When it does separate, it leaves the front portion of the case in the chamber and pulls the case head off. Then when it tries to chamber the next round, you have a nasty jam. Quite often range brass is the culprit of this because you never know how many times it has been fired/sized and in what firearm. Back to beating it on the ground again till you figure out that you have to get the forward part of the case out.
Just a quick tip — To extract the partial case, an oversized brush on a cleaning rod [inserted] and then pulled backward will often remove the case. The bristles when pushed forward and then pulled back act like barbs inside the case. If you have a bunch of oversized case that have been fired, I would dispose of them to keep from having future problems. There are a few tricks you can use to salvage them if they haven’t been fired though. Once again, a case gage would have helped.
Two: Double Check Your Primers
Another thing I see fairly often is a high primer, backwards primer, or no primer at all. The high primers are bad because you can have either a slam fire or a misfire from the firing pin seating the primer but using up its energy doing so. So, as a precaution to make sure my rifle ammo will work 100% of the time, I check it in a case gage, then put it in an ammo box with the primer up and when the box is full, I run my finger across all the primers to make sure they are all seated to the correct depth and you can visually check to make sure none are in backwards or missing.
Three: Check Your Overall Cartridge Length
Trying to load the ammo as long as possible can cause problems also. Be sure to leave yourself enough clearance between the tip of the bullet and the front of the magazine where the rounds will feed up 100%. Several times over the years, I have heard of hunters getting their rifle ready for a hunt. When they would go to the range to sight in, they loaded each round single shot without putting any ammo in the magazine. On getting to elk or deer camp, they find out the ammo is to long to fit in the magazine. At least they have a single shot, it could be worse. I have had hunters that their buddies loaded the ammo for them and then met them in hunting camp only to find out the ammo wouldn’t chamber from either the bullet seated to long or the case sized improperly, then they just have a club.
Four: Confirm All Cases Contain Powder
No powder in the case doesn’t seem to happen as much in rifle cartridges as in handgun cartridges. This is probably due to more handgun ammo being loaded on progressive presses and usually in larger quantities. There are probably more rifle cartridges that don’t have powder in them than you realize though. Since the pistol case is so much smaller internal capacity, when you try to fire it without powder, it usually dislodges the bullet just enough to stick in the barrel. On a rifle, you have more internal capacity and usually a better grip on the bullet, since it is smaller diameter and longer bearing surface. Like on a .223, often a case without powder won’t dislodge the bullet out of the case and just gets ejected from the rifle, thinking it was a bad primer or some little quirk.
For rifle cases loaded on a single stage press, I put them in a reloading block and always dump my powder in a certain order. Then I do a visual inspection and any case that the powder doesn’t look the same level as the rest, I pull it and the one I charged before and the one I charged after it. I inspect the one case to see if there is anything visual inside. Then I recharge all 3 cases. That way if a case had powder hang up and dump in the next case, you have corrected the problem.
On progressive presses, I try to use a powder that fills the case up to about the base of the bullet. That way you can usually see the powder as the shell rotates and if you might have dumped a partial or double charge, you will notice as you start to seat the bullet if not before. On a progressive, if I don’t load a cartridge in one smooth stroke (say a bullet tipped over sideways and I raised the ram slightly to reset it) Some presses actually back the charge back adding more powder if it has already dumped some so you have a full charge plus a partial charge. When I don’t complete the procedure with one stroke, I pull the case that just had powder dumped into it and check the powder charge or just dump the powder back into the measure and run the case through later.
With good factory rifle ammo costing $1.30 per round or more — a Laser BoreSighter could pay for itself in just a couple range sessions.
Laser BoreSighters — fitted to your chamber — help you get on target more quickly, particularly with factory firearms. Just activate the unit, slip it into the chamber and look for the red dot on the target. The laser dot is about 2″ in diameter at 100 yards, and is visible even in full sunlight. Right now you can get HQ Issue Sight-Rite BoreSighters starting at $19.99 at Sportsman’s Guide (member price is $17.99). These units have a durable brass metal body and the battery will run an hour.
Rifle and Shotgun Cartridge Types:
Sight-Rite Boresighters are offered for popular rifle and shotgun cartridge types including: .17 HMR, .22 LR, .223 Rem, .204 Ruger, .22-250, 6.5 Creedmoor, 7mm WSM, .30-30, 20 Gauge shotshell, 12 Gauge Shotshell. Sportsman’s Guide also offers Sightmark Pistol Laser BoreSighters for $26.99: .38 SPL/.357 Mag, 9mm, .40 SW, .44 Magnum, .45 ACP.
Amazon offers MidTen Laser Boresighters complete with 6 batteries (two sets). This runs $17.99 for the .223 Rem cartridge while a larger boresighter for .25-06/.270 Win/.30-06 Boresighter is $19.89.
In-chamber BoreSighters are much safer than the kind that you insert in the end of the barrel (or attach to muzzle). If you forget your laser bore-sight placed in the end of the barrel, and then fire a round, you can blow up your barrel and/or suffer serious injury — it HAS happened.
This video shows how to use in-chamber Sightmark laser boresighters. The HQ Issue Sight-Rite XSI boresighters work the same way:
The Henry AR-7 Survival rifle is a unique rifle. Weighing just 3.5 pounds, this little semi-auto rimfire can perform pest-control duties for a farmer or rancher, or serve as a utility rifle carried in a truck or ATV. The cleverly-designed AR-7 is affordably priced, just $299.99 at Sportsman’s Warehouse.
We think most gun-owners would enjoy adding an AR-7 to their collection. The Henry AR-7 breaks down for easy carry in a backpack or a vehicle. The barrel, receiver, and magazines all fit INSIDE the buttstock. That’s handy. And this little 3.5-pound rifle offers surprisingly good accuracy.
If you don’t like basic black, Henry offers two camo versions from the factory: True-Timber Kanati Camo, and Viper Western Camo. Click the photo below for full-screen (2048 pixel wide) image:
Or, if you have artistic skills (and confidence with spray cans), you can paint your AR-7 yourself, as this owner did. The talented gun-painter reports: “[This is a] great little gun that is accurate and I love how it packs away. I paint all my black guns. Already took a grouse at 16 yards.”
History of the Henry AR-7 Rifle
Starting in 1959 the AR-7 was provided to U.S. Air Force fliers as a survival rifle to use if they were stranded in a remote area. Today the AR-7 is a favorite of bush pilots, backpackers, and backcountry adventurers who, like their Air Force counterparts, need a rifle that’s easy to carry yet can take down small game. Like the original Henry U.S. Survival Rifle, this innovative, semi-automatic rimfire rig is lightweight (3.5 lbs.) and highly portable. At just 16.5″ long, with all components stowed, it easily fits into a backpack, or the cargo area of an ATV, truck, boat. or plane. The AR-7 is chambered in .22 LR so you can carry plenty of ammo without adding much weight to your gear. When disassembled, all the pieces fit inside the impact-resistant, water-resistant stock.
Assembly is as easy as attaching the receiver to the stock, inserting the barrel, and screwing on the barrel nut. In a few seconds, without any tools, the Henry U.S. Survival AR-7 is ready for action. It now comes standard with a steel barrel covered in tough ABS plastic with a protective coating for corrosion resistance. The Henry U.S. Survival AR-7 is available in three finishes; Black, True Timber Kanati Camo Pattern, and True Timber Viper Western Camo Pattern. All models are equipped with an adjustable rear sight and a blade front sight. As you can see below, the built-in storage can be used to hold magazines and ammunition as well as the rifle components.
Another AR-7 owner posted this review:
Simple Goodness: Henry AR-7 — Fun Modern Version of a Classic
Henry got this modern take of the AR-7 right. Gentle finger-tighten is all it takes to assemble. The funky orange plastic sight on the end of the barrel is kind of loud, but was also easy to target with. Brand spanking new, I was getting grapefruit-sized patterns out of each 8-round mag at 50 feet. For a compact take-down, was surprised that length-of-pull was satisfactory for a six-foot guy. It didn’t feel cramped.
For realistic backpack, bail-out, or bug-out situations this would be a smart choice. It was fussy with a single Rem Golden in the first mag… but after that no problems, and no issues at all with Federal and CCI. The safety is right-handed but large and easy to get used to. The charge handle retracts so [you must] pull it up before pulling back, but that motion seemed to become reflexive pretty quickly. The mag eject is in front of the trigger and pushes forward. All in all, [the AR-7 offers a] really nice, compact form factor. [It is] light, perfect for backpack plinking and … low-rent varmint sniping.
Today’s Saturday Showcase covers gun safes. Every firearms owner should have a secure, quality gun safe with ample capacity. There are numerous choices in gun safes — but we have one key bit of advice — buy BIGGER than you think you need, because your gun collection will likely grow over time. Also you should consider the fire rating of your safe. There are other key factors to consider, such as wall thickness, lock type, shelf and storage layout, and humidity control. We recommend that all Bulletin readers read our detailed, Gun Safe Buyers Guide. This in-depth 9400-word article covers ALL these topics:
Anti-Corrosion
Budget Safes
Bolt Layout
Door Seals
Fire Proofing
Handgun Storage
Hinges
Humidity Control
Installation Tips
Interior Layout
Interior Lighting
Locks–Dial vs. Digital
Modular Safes
Rotary Racks
Size and Weight
Temperature Control
Wall Thickness
Water Proofing
Technical Features of Gun Safes — What You Need to Know
This is a very sensible, informative video that examines the technical features of gun safes. You’ll learn about the steel “gauge” or thickness, the different types of hinges, lock controls, and fire-proofing options. We think anyone contemplating purchase of a large home safe should watch this video, prepared by a respected safe retailer in Las Vegas.
Assembly of SnapSafe Titan XXL Double Door Modular Safe
In this video Gavin Gear of UltimateReloader.com shows the unpacking and assembly of a large, twin-door SnapSafe modular safe. This video shows how individual panels are assembled one by one, and how the twin doors are attached. Gavin also shows the process of installing the interior insulation panels which provide basic fire protection. Remarkably, this entire XXL modular safe can be put together with simple tools in less than an hour. SEE Full Article HERE.
Features of a Quality Safe under $1000
Even if you already have a safe, this video is well worth watching. The host shows a variety of accessories and upgrades that all gun safe owners should consider. The host explains why you should have a dehumidifier or Golden Rod. He also shows how to install handy interior lights that activate automatically when the door is opened.
The Gun Vault — The Next Step Beyond a Jumbo Gun Safe
If you have a very large gun collection and are building a new custom home, you may want to consider a Gun Vault. This is essentially a large, secure room, with a very heavy door and thick walls. In this interesting video, Atlas builds a large walk-in gun vault using the Gallow Tech Shelving System and a Fort Knox Gun Vault door.
After the Fire — What Actually Happens in a Burned Safe
In this video, the hosts open a “fireproof” gun safe that went through an actual house fire. See what happens when a gun safe that is supposed to be fireproof actually is exposed to a major fire. The results are surprising to say the least. This video shows that you need to do your homework before buying a “fireproof” safe. Understand how the fire rating systems work, and learn how the interior materials and construction make a big different in real world fire protection.
Mechanical Locks vs. Electronic Locks — What You Need to Know
One important decision when buying a gun safe is the choice of locking mechanism. Should you go with a mechanical lock or an electronic lock? There are pros and cons to both dial locks and e-locks, and as long as you get a quality lock, neither is a bad choice. To help you make your decision, This video explains the differences between the two, and reasons why you might choose one over the other.
How to Assemble a Modular Safe with Simple Tools
For gun owners who move frequently, or who may live in an upstairs apartment or condo, a modular safe makes sense. Steelhead Outdoors, based in Minnesota, offers three different safes: Nomad 26, 32, and Nomad 38. The video below shows how to assemble a Steelhead Outdoors Nomad series safe. If you have basic skills, these safes can be assembled easily in 60-90 minutes. Steelhead recommends having two people to do the job. The entire safe ships in four (4) boxes. Wrenches are included with the safe.
This time-lapse video shows the entire process of assembling the safe, start to finish.
Guide to Quick Access Handgun Safes
A quick access safe can keep your pistol secure, but also readily accessible. But not all of these devices are created equal. This video explains the features you need in a small pistol safe. The video also examines the pros and cons of seven different handgun safes. We recommend that you do NOT keep your handgun safe in plain view, such as on a bedside table. There are other locations where you still have quick access, without tempting home intruders.
Wireless Hygrometer Reports Temperature and Humidity Inside Safes
The Hornady Security® Wireless Hygrometer monitors temperature and humidity in real-time, all without opening the gun safe. The wireless hygrometer employs a remote sensor inside your safe, which measures temperature and humidity data. This data is then sent to an external base display. Wireless technology eliminates the need to open the safe and check the storage environment, preventing temperature and humidity spikes from the outside air.
The display features a large touchscreen that shows current high/low data from both the base and remote units in Fahrenheit or Celsius. The hygrometer pairs with Hornady Security’s in-safe dehumidifiers to combat oxidation-causing moisture.
Gun Safe Installation Recommendations
Every safe, when possible, should be anchored in place with heavy-duty fasteners. Ideally, use multiple bolts in the bottom of the safe, anchored to concrete or solid foundation. Choose the appropriate lag bolts or anchors for the material below your safe. If you can’t mount to the floor, bolt the safe to wall studs. You can locate the position of the studs with an inexpensive electronic “Stud Sensor” available at home supply stores.
Check the thickness of your safe floor. If the steel on the bottom of your safe is fairly thin, place a steel backing strip between the bolt heads and the safe bottom. (Large washers will work, but a backing strip is better.) Without such reinforcement, the bolt heads may pull right through thin-gauge steel if the safe is rocked, or levered from the bottom with a pry-bar.
Locate your safe in the corner of a room or in a recess that blocks access to one or more sides of the safe. On many gun safes, the steel on the top, sides, and rear is thinner than on the door. Blocking access to the sides makes it much more difficult to use power tools on the sides, where the safe is most vulnerable. It’s also wise to place the safe in a relatively tight space with limited room to maneuver. Anything that makes the safe harder to move helps deter would-be thieves.
Many people place their safe in a garage or basement. That’s not necessarily a bad idea, but people also tend to store their tools in the same locations. Don’t store your power tools next to the safe. One safe-maker told us how a customer’s safe was defeated using the owners’ own cutting torch which was stored right next to the safe!
Inspect the area around the safe. Avoid locations where there are a lot of wood beams, paint cans, or other combustible material nearby. In the event of a serious house-fire, these items will fuel the flames, increasing the likelihood that items inside your safe will be heat-damaged. Chris Luchini, co-author of Rec.Gun’s Guide to Gun Safes, offers some practical advice: “Get an alarm system. If the burglars hear an alarm go off, they are less likely to stick round to finish the job. Alarms on both the house and the safe area are a good idea.”
In our Shooters’ Forum, there’s an interesting thread about a very light hunting rifle. Featuring a Defiance ultra-light all-steel action, this 6.5×57 Lapua lightweight tips the scales at just 4.93 pounds including scope and rings! For reference, a half-gallon of milk weighs 4.3 pounds, so this rifle is LIGHT! Here’s a report from the proud owner who built the rifle for a future Kodiak Island Alaska mountain goat hunt.
Ultralight Rifle Report by Forum Member Dave
I decided I wanted the challenge of a Mountain Goat hunt after I turn 60. It was the perfect excuse to put together an ultralight, something I had wanted to do for years. I wanted to see how light a bolt action rifle could actually be. My goal was to stay under 5 pounds, without going to a Titanium action, including rings and scope. I knew this would be difficult but I did manage to achieve the goal.
I started with a Defiance anTi model Rem Model 7 short action. This is an extremely smooth action that weighs just 19.2 ounces in this size. I had Carson Lilja of Lilja Barrels program a barrel taper to my dimensions for a 6.5mm 1:8″-twist stainless, 3-groove 22″ barrel. As fitted in the rifle, the barrel is free-floated except for the first inch or so forward of the action.
Other rifle components are: Bix n Andy Dakota trigger, aluminum trigger guard, blind magazine with an aluminum follower, titanium action screws, and a Leupold 3-9X lightweight optic in Talley rings. I also had an aluminum adapter installed in the for-end to accept a magnetic mount Javelin carbon fiber bipod.
The rifle was chambered up in 6.5×47 Lapua by my friends at Sportsman’s Outfitters in Knox, Pennsylvania. Then I sent the barreled action to Wayne at Oregunsmithing (Pendleton, OR) to have a Kevlar stock built. The stock weighs a whopping 14 ounces! When it came back I had everything Cerakoted (see bottom photo before coating). This stock was a full custom, built around my barreled action. Wayne’s work was reasonably priced with a 3-month turn around.
Excellent Accuracy — 5/8″ Three-Shot Groups at 100 Yards
Now it was time to shoot the rifle and I was not disappointed. It shoots both Barnes TTSX 100s or Swift Scirocco II 130s into 5/8″ at 100 yards. Off a bipod at 400 yards, three go into 3″ or so. This thing is crazy light even though it wears a 22″ barrel.
Without scope and rings, before Cerakoting the action and barrel, this 6.5×47 rifle tipped the scales at a mere 4.20 pounds (67.2 ounces). Check it out:
The Risk of Hearing Loss
Oversizing cases also causes problems because the firing pin doesn’t have the length to reach the primer solid enough to ignite it 100% of the time. When you have one that is oversized, you usually have a bunch, since you usually do several cases at a time on that die setting. If the die isn’t readjusted, the problem will continue on the next batch of cases also. They will either not fire at all or you will have a lot of misfires. In a bolt action, a lot of time the extractor will hold the case against the face of the breech enough that it will fire. The case gets driven forward and the thinner part of the brass expands, holding to the chamber wall and the thicker part of the case doesn’t expand as much and stretches back to the bolt face. If it doesn’t separate that time, it will the next time. When it does separate, it leaves the front portion of the case in the chamber and pulls the case head off. Then when it tries to chamber the next round, you have a nasty jam. Quite often range brass is the culprit of this because you never know how many times it has been fired/sized and in what firearm. Back to beating it on the ground again till you figure out that you have to get the forward part of the case out.
Every safe, when possible, should be anchored in place with heavy-duty fasteners. Ideally, use multiple bolts in the bottom of the safe, anchored to concrete or solid foundation. Choose the appropriate lag bolts or anchors for the material below your safe. If you can’t mount to the floor, bolt the safe to wall studs. You can locate the position of the studs with an inexpensive electronic “Stud Sensor” available at home supply stores.
Locate your safe in the corner of a room or in a recess that blocks access to one or more sides of the safe. On many gun safes, the steel on the top, sides, and rear is thinner than on the door. Blocking access to the sides makes it much more difficult to use power tools on the sides, where the safe is most vulnerable. It’s also wise to place the safe in a relatively tight space with limited room to maneuver. Anything that makes the safe harder to move helps deter would-be thieves.
