If you’re looking for a space-saving handgun storage system, consider the Easy Use Gun Hangers from USA GunClub, sold on Amazon. These vinyl-coated, wire hangers organize handguns below the shelves in your gunsafe, freeing up storage space above the shelves. To use the handgun hangers, simply slide each hanger on the shelf and then slip your pistol’s barrel over the lower rod. Handgun Hangers are intended for guns with an overall length of 10 inches or shorter. They will fit shelves that are at least 11 inches deep and 5/8-1 inch in thickness. Handgun Hangers will hold handguns .22 caliber and up, though the fit is a bit snug on .22s. A four-pack of Handgun Hangers costs $8.99 on Amazon. This product has been an Amazon Best Seller among handgun storage accessories.
WARNING — Always Make Sure Handgun is UNLOADED when using Handgun Hangers!!
USA GunClub also offers an Over-Under Hanger that holds two handguns — one above the shelf, and one below. A two-pack of Over-Under Hangers (capable of holding four handguns) costs $9.99 on Amazon. This may be a good solution for you. This Editor personally prefers the standard model, so I can use the upper surface of the shelf to hold odd-shaped items such as cameras, binoculars, and miscellaneous valuables.
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If the battery on your safe’s electronic lock is more than a year old, or if it is not giving you the right voltage, replace it today!
Check Your Gun Safe Batteries
We’re into Q2 of 2024 already. Hey guys — when was the last time you replaced the batteries in your gun safe? Has it been more than a year? If so, it’s time you get a new battery (or two) for that safe. The electronic keypad won’t work with an insufficient charge, and the lock system could potentially lose its combination memory if you wait too long.
IMPORTANT: If you have a safe with an electronic keypad, you should replace the battery every year as a precautionary measure. Trust us, you don’t want to come back in a few months and find that the keypad memory is kaput, and you’re locked out. That can lead to frustration and an expensive locksmith visit.
Here’s a true story. I have one safe with a Sargent & Greenleaf (S&G) keypad. A couple years back, in early December, I went to get into the safe. I punched in the correct combination, but all I got was a rapid “beep, beep, beep, beep” after I finished the last combination entry. I tried again to ensure I entered the combination correctly (I did). But again, the locking system responded with multiple rapid beeps indicating something was wrong. And the safe would not open. Now I was worried….
I popped out the battery holder (which slides in from the bottom of the keypad housing on the door). I removed the battery and tested it with a volt-meter. The 12-month-old Duracell 9-volt battery only registered 6.1 volts.
Low voltage was the problem. I went down to the store and got a couple new 9V batteries. I tested the new batteries and both measured 9.4 volts output. I slipped one of the new 9V batteries into the keypad housing, punched in the combination and everything worked OK again. Eureka.
Most electronic locks for safes WILL “remember” the combination for a period of time even when the battery is low (and the keypad’s “brain” should retain the combination when you remove the battery for replacement). However, a dead battery, or extended periods of low voltage can give you problems. Don’t rely on wishful thinking…
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Everyone should have a heavy-duty, thick-walled steel gunsafe for their firearms and valuables. Ideally this should weigh 400+ pounds and offer fire protection for the contents. However, a gun owner may also want more rapid access to defensive arms and security items, in a different part of the home. That is where the “hidden in plain sight” concept comes into play.
Freedom Cabinet Holds Long Arms and Pistols — RFID Access
The unique Freedom Cabinet, shown above, is a patriotic, wall-mounted Stars & Stripes Flag-themed concealment unit. Available in Wood, Steel, or Carbon Fiber, each secure Freedom Cabinet features inlaid steel and Invisible RFID or Biometric locking systems. The Freedom Cabinet regularly costs $229.95. Along with this flip-up Freedom cabinet, there is a “Slider” version priced at $284.95.
Get the 20% discounts this Memorial Day week with CODE “THANKYOU20″. Later, for Father’s Day week, save 20% with CODE “DAD20″
Tactical Walls Shelf Secure Storage Unit
TacticalWalls.com, producers of home security/concealment products, offers clever furniture item that hold defensive arms. We like the big model 1242 Top Locking Shelf. This will hold a long gun plus a pistol and other items, which can be accessed rapidly with magnetic keys. The foam-lined secret compartment measures 12″ Deep x 42″ Wide. Price starts at $540.00.
Tactical Walls also have a smaller model 825 Top Locking Shelf that holds two pistols and some small accessories. This model 82 has a 8″ x 25″ W foam-lined hidden compartment accessed by magnetic keys. The model 825 locking Shelf retails for $473.00 – $405.00, depending on wood choice.
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If the battery on your safe’s electronic lock is more than a year old, or if it is not giving you the right voltage, replace it today!
Check Your Gun Safe Batteries
We’re halfway through 2023. Hey guys — when was the last time you replaced the batteries in your gun safe? Has it been more than a year? If so, it’s time you get a new battery (or two) for that safe. The electronic keypad won’t work with an insufficient charge, and the lock system could potentially lose its combination memory if you wait too long.
IMPORTANT: If you have a safe with an electronic keypad, you should replace the battery every year as a precautionary measure. Trust us, you don’t want to come back in a few months and find that the keypad memory is kaput, and you’re locked out. That can lead to frustration and an expensive locksmith visit.
Here’s a true story. I have one safe with a Sargent & Greenleaf (S&G) keypad. A couple years back, in early December, I went to get into the safe. I punched in the correct combination, but all I got was a rapid “beep, beep, beep, beep” after I finished the last combination entry. I tried again to ensure I entered the combination correctly (I did). But again, the locking system responded with multiple rapid beeps indicating something was wrong. And the safe would not open. Now I was worried….
I popped out the battery holder (which slides in from the bottom of the keypad housing on the door). I removed the battery and tested it with a volt-meter. The 12-month-old Duracell 9-volt battery only registered 6.1 volts.
Low voltage was the problem. I went down to the store and got a couple new 9V batteries. I tested the new batteries and both measured 9.4 volts output. I slipped one of the new 9V batteries into the keypad housing, punched in the combination and everything worked OK again. Eureka.
Most electronic locks for safes WILL “remember” the combination for a period of time even when the battery is low (and the keypad’s “brain” should retain the combination when you remove the battery for replacement). However, a dead battery, or extended periods of low voltage can give you problems. Don’t rely on wishful thinking…
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In recognition of June as National Safety Month, the NSSF reminds guns owners that their most important responsibility is to store their firearms securely when not in use. New and long-time gun owners sometimes underestimate the danger of leaving firearms unsecured, which can potentially lead to such risks as: A child getting into a bedside table or closet and finding a loaded gun; A criminal stealing an unsecured firearm from one’s home or vehicle; or a teen at risk for suicide obtaining an adult’s firearm.
With schools closing soon for the summer and kids spending more time at home, firearms safety is more important than ever. Given that fact, the NSSF reminds gun owners to keep their guns locked up so they cannot be accessed by children. The NSSF urges gun owners to keep firearms safety a top priority. All gun owners must remember that it is vital to use gun locks and secure storage at all times.
We also know that stolen firearms contribute to violent crime in the U.S. Gun thefts from cars, in particular, are a persistent source of stolen guns. This means that gun owners—if they fail to secure their firearms in their vehicles—could have their gun stolen and potentially used in a crime—and no one wants their gun used by a criminal.
That’s why it’s so important, as a responsible gun owner, to make sure you’re practicing secure firearm storage and to encourage fellow gun owners to do the same. You have many choices of safety devices to fit your needs and lifestyle — from free Project ChildSafe® cable gun locks available at local law enforcement agencies to lockable gun cases, lock boxes, and full-size safes.
Firearms Security and Safety in Vehicles
“More parents are assuming the role of educators in their homes, so it’s a good to time have a talk with your kids about gun safety, even if you don’t own a gun”, states Joe Bartozzi, NSSF President and CEO. “If you do own a firearm, be sure your family understands the safety rules regarding firearms in your home, and always store guns responsibly when not in use.”
If you’re looking for a space-saving handgun storage system, consider the Easy Use Gun Hangers from USA GunClub. These vinyl-coated, wire hangers organize handguns below the shelves in your gunsafe, freeing up storage space above the shelves. To use the handgun hangers, simply slide each hanger on the shelf and then slip your pistol’s barrel over the lower rod. Handgun Hangers are intended for guns with an overall length of 10 inches or shorter. They will fit shelves that are at least 11 inches deep and 5/8-1 inch in thickness. Handgun Hangers will hold handguns .22 caliber and up, though the fit is a bit snug on .22s. A four-pack of Handgun Hangers costs $9.99. This product has been Amazon’s #1 Best Seller among handgun storage accessories.
WARNING — ALWAYS Make Sure Handgun is UNLOADED when using Handgun Hangers!!
Gun Storage Solutions offers an Over-Under Hanger that holds two handguns — one above the shelf, and one below. A two-pack of Over-Under Hangers (capable of holding four handguns) costs $17.95. Boomstick also sells an over-under two-pack for $9.49. Over-under hangers work well. However, this Editor personally prefers the standard handgun hangers (shown above), so I can use the upper surface of the shelf to hold odd-shaped items such as cameras, binoculars, and miscellaneous valuables.
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A high-end, full custom Benchrest, F-Class, or PRS rifle can cost upwards of $5000.00. Some top-tier competition and tactical scopes (March, Kahles, Schmidt & Bender) cost $2500-$3600 by themselves. If you’re transporting multiple custom rifles with premium scopes to the range, you could easily be hauling $20,000 worth of scoped guns. Bring along a Co-Axial rest, spotting scope, rangefinder, Kestrel, and LabRadar chronograph, and that could push the total closer to $25,000+. Think about that — your guns and gear could be worth way more than your vehicle!
How do you safeguard a big-money collection of guns (without driving around in a Brinks armored truck)? One of the best storage systems available is the TruckVault, built in Washington state. TruckVaults are custom-fitted, locking storage cabinets that fit in a Pick-up truck bed, SUV, or station wagon. Various designs are available, including a waterproof “Extreme Series”. Both single-drawer and multi-draw layouts are offered with lengths up to 60″ overall, and top-load capacity of 2000 pounds. A variety of interior configurations are available.
For transporting scoped match rifles, we suggest TruckVault’s Magnum Height line, which ha 10.5″ of vertical clearance. This is available with two drawers or one full-width drawer with two diagonal internal compartments for long rifles.
Truck-Vault Video Showing Break-In Attempt
Truck-Vaults carry a big price-tag. One-drawer SUV models start at around $1775.00, but you can pay over $4000.00 for a large truck unit with all the bells and whistles. Balance that cost against the value of the all firearms and accessories you are transporting. If you spend much time on the road with a pricey collection of guns, optics, and accessories, a Truck-Vault may be a wise investment. This editor first saw a Truck-Vault on a Chevy Suburban belonging to an Arizona gunsmith who does a lot of work for the military. It was not unusual for him to haul $50,000 worth of Class III weapons. For him, the Truck-Vault was an essential security feature. For more info, visit TruckVault.com or call (800) 967-8107.
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Dual-Lock Technology: Cannon offers an innovative combined digital/mechanical lock system. This dual-access lock provides the rapid access of an electronic lock backed up by the assurance of a manual (rotary dial) combination lock.
Electronic (Keypad) Lock vs. Manual (Rotary) Lock
Smart gun owners know they need a good, solid gun safe. But when choosing a gun safe, what kind of lock should you select — electronic or mechanical? Both types have their advantages and disadvantages. This article will help you make the right choice for your needs and also get the most reliable performance from either type.
Gunsafes can be fitted with either an electronic keypad-style lock, or a conventional dial lock. In our Gunsafe Buyer’s Guide, we explain the important features of both dial and electronic lock systems. Many safe-makers will tell you that consumers prefer electronic locks for convenience. On the other hand, most of the locksmiths we’ve polled believe that the “old-fashioned” dial locks, such as the Sargent & Greenleaf model 6730, will be more reliable in the long run.
Here is the opinion of RFB from Michigan. He is a professional locksmith with over two decades of experience servicing locks and safes of all brands and types:
What a Professional Locksmith Says:
For the convenience of quick opening, the electronic locks can’t be beat. However, for endurance and years of trouble-free use, the electronics can’t compare with the dial lock.
I’ve earned my living, the past 22 years, servicing locks of all types. This includes opening safes that can’t otherwise be opened. I do warranty work for several safe manufacturers (including Liberty). What I’ve learned in all those years is that manual dial locks have very few problems. The most common is a loose dial ring which can shift either left or right, which will result in the index point being in the wrong place for proper tumbler alignment. This is simple to fix.
Electronic locks, however, can have all kinds of issues, and none (except bad key-pad) are easy to fix, and when one goes bad, it must be drilled into to open it. IMO, it’s not a matter of ‘if’ an electronic lock will ultimately fail, but a matter of ‘when’ it will fail. Over the past 10 years or so, since electronics have become more and more prevalent, I’ve had to drill open bad electronic locks vs. bad manual dial locks on a ratio of about 20-1.
My professional opinion is to get the manual dial lock, unless you’ve got a good friend who is a locksmith/safecracker.
How Secure is Your Lock?
RFB tells us that both dial and electronic locks offer good security, provided it’s a good quality lock made by LaGard, Sargent & Greenleaf, Amsec, or Kaba/Ilco. However, RFB warns that “Some of the ‘cheaper’ locks (both manual and electronic) however, are very simple to bypass.
An electronic lock that’s glued or ‘stuck’ to the door with double-sided tape, and has its ‘brain’ on the outside of the lock in the same housing as the keypad, and merely sends power to an inner solenoid via a pair of wires through the door, is a thief’s best friend. The good ones have the brain inside the safe, inaccessible from the outside.
No amateur can ‘manipulate’ either a good manual or electronic lock. Both give you a theoretical one million possible combinations. I say ‘theoretical’ because there are many combinations that cannot, or should not, be used. You wouldn’t set your combo on a dial lock to 01-01-01 etc., nor would you set an electronic to 1-1-1-1-1-1, or 1-2-3-4-5-6.”
Tips for Dial Locks
RFB notes that “The speed, and ease of use, of a manual dial lock can be improved upon, simply by having your combo reset using certain guidelines. Avoid high numbers above 50. Having a 1st number in the 40s, 2nd number anywhere from 0-25, and 3rd number between 25 and 35 will cut dialing time in half, without compromising security. (For mechanical reasons I won’t get into here, the 3rd number of a good manual dial lock cannot — or should not — be set to any number between 95 & 20).”
Tips for Electronic Locks
Electronic locks can have the combination changed by the user much more easily than dial locks. That should be a good thing. However, RFB explains: “That can be a double-edged sword. More than a few times I’ve had to drill open a safe with an electronic lock that has had the combo changed incorrectly by the user, resulting in an unknown number that nobody can determine. Also, don’t forget that electronic locks have a ‘wrong-number lock-out’. I would NOT rely on the normal quickness of an electronic 6-number combo in an emergency situation. If for any reason (panic etc.) you punch in the wrong number several times, the lock will shut down for a 5-minute ‘penalty’.
Replace Electronic Lock Batteries Every Year
To get the most life out of any electronic (keypad Lock), you should change the battery at least once a year, whether it needs it or not. Low voltage won’t necessarily shut down the lock, but using it in a low voltage situation is bad for the electronics, and eventually will cause lock failure. So, If you do nothing else to maintain your digital-lock safe, replace the battery every year.
And get a fresh battery (with a release date) from the store — don’t just pull a battery out of a storage bin, even if it’s never been used. Old batteries can lost “juice” and physically degrade, even when in storage.
This article is Copyright 2023 AccurateShooter.com. No reproduction on any other website is authorized without payment of licensing fees or liquidated damages.
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If the battery on your safe’s electronic lock is more than a year old, or if it is not giving you the right voltage, replace it today!
Replace Your Safe’s Keypad Battery Every Year
This time of year, many of our readers are putting their guns away in a safe for the winter. It’s easy to just tuck the guns away and forget about them. But there’s something you should do before you shut the safe door. If you have a safe with an electronic keypad, you should replace the battery every year as a precautionary measure. Trust us, you don’t want to come back in a few months and find that the keypad memory is kaput, and you’re locked out. That can lead to frustration and an expensive locksmith visit.
Here’s a true story. I have one safe with a Sargent & Greenleaf (S&G) keypad. A couple years back, in early December, I went to get into the safe. I punched in the correct combination, but all I got was a rapid “beep, beep, beep, beep” after I finished the last combination entry. I tried again to ensure I entered the combination correctly (I did). But again, the locking system responded with multiple rapid beeps indicating something was wrong. And the safe would not open. Now I was worried….
I popped out the battery holder (which slides in from the bottom of the keypad housing on the door). I removed the battery and tested it with a volt-meter. The 12-month-old Duracell 9-volt battery only registered 6.1 volts.
Low voltage was the problem. I went down to the store and got a couple new 9V batteries. I tested the new batteries and both measured 9.4 volts output. I slipped one of the new 9V batteries into the keypad housing, punched in the combination and everything worked OK again. Eureka.
Most electronic locks for safes WILL “remember” the combination for a period of time even when the battery is low (and the keypad’s “brain” should retain the combination when you remove the battery for replacement). However, a dead battery, or extended periods of low voltage can give you problems. Don’t rely on wishful thinking…
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If the battery on your safe’s electronic lock is more than a year old, or if it is not giving you the right voltage, replace it today!
Well it’s a New Year folks — 2022 is here, so change those Gun Safe Keypad Batteries!
By this time, many of our readers have stashed their guns away in the safe for the remainder of the winter. It’s easy to just tuck the guns away and forget about them. But there’s something you should do before you shut the safe door. If you have a safe with an electronic keypad, you should replace the battery every year as a precautionary measure. Trust us, you don’t want to come back in a few months and find that the keypad memory is kaput, and you’re locked out. That can lead to frustration and an expensive locksmith visit.
Here’s a true story. I have one safe with a Sargent & Greenleaf (S&G) keypad. A couple years back, in early December, I went to get into the safe. I punched in the correct combination, but all I got was a rapid “beep, beep, beep, beep” after I finished the last combination entry. I tried again to ensure I entered the combination correctly (I did). But again, the locking system responded with multiple rapid beeps indicating something was wrong. And the safe would not open. Now I was worried….
I popped out the battery holder (which slides in from the bottom of the keypad housing on the door). I removed the battery and tested it with a volt-meter. The 12-month-old Duracell 9-volt battery only registered 6.1 volts.
Low voltage was the problem. I went down to the store and got a couple new 9V batteries. I tested the new batteries and both measured 9.4 volts output. I slipped one of the new 9V batteries into the keypad housing, punched in the combination and everything worked OK again. Eureka.
Most electronic locks for safes WILL “remember” the combination for a period of time even when the battery is low (and the keypad’s “brain” should retain the combination when you remove the battery for replacement). However, a dead battery, or extended periods of low voltage can give you problems. Don’t rely on wishful thinking…
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A high-end, full custom Benchrest, F-Class, or PRS rifle can cost upwards of $5000.00. Some top-tier competition and tactical scopes (March, Kahles, Schmidt & Bender) cost $2500-$3600 by themselves. If you’re transporting multiple custom rifles with premium scopes to the range, you could easily be hauling $20,000 worth of scoped guns. Bring along a Co-Axial rest, spotting scope, rangefinder, Kestrel, and LabRadar chronograph, and that could push the total closer to $25,000+. Think about that — your guns and gear could be worth way more than your vehicle!
How do you safeguard a big-money collection of guns (without driving around in a Brinks armored truck)? One of the best storage systems available is the Truck-Vault, built in Washington state. Truck-vaults are custom-fitted, locking storage cabinets that fit in a Pick-up truck bed, SUV, or station wagon. Various designs are available, including a waterproof “Extreme Series.” Both single-drawer and multi-draw layouts are offered with lengths up to 60″ overall, and top-load capacity of 2000 pounds. A variety of interior configurations are available.
For transporting scoped match rifles, we suggest Truck-Vault’s “Magnum Line”, which has two drawers with 10.5″ of vertical clearance. This offers two primary sliding compartments (on roller casters), plus smaller storage boxes where you can keep valuable gear securely out of sight.
Truck-Vault Video Showing Break-In Attempt
Truck-Vaults carry a big price-tag. One-drawer SUV models start at around $1100.00, but you can pay over $2000.00 for a unit with all the bells and whistles. Balance that cost against the value of the all firearms and accessories you are transporting. If you spend much time on the road with a pricey collection of guns, optics, and accessories, a Truck-Vault may be a wise investment. This editor first saw a Truck-Vault on a Chevy Suburban belonging to an Arizona gunsmith who does a lot of work for the military. It was not unusual for him to haul $50,000 worth of Class III weapons. For him, the Truck-Vault was an essential security feature. For more info, visit TruckVault.com or call (800) 967-8107.
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Here’s a smart new product that monitors the temperature and humidity inside your gun safe — with a convenient LCD display unit located on the outside of the safe. You don’t need to string wires or cut a small hole in your safe — there are two separate components, one inside and one outside. The sensor unit (on the inside) communicates wirelessly with the display unit (on the outside).
The new GoldenRod Wireless Hygrometer was designed to display the temp/humidity in your safe without the need to open the safe. NOTE: the wireless LCD display can show BOTH in-vault AND in-room humidity and temperature levels. You can attach the display to the vault door with its built-in magnet, or simply place the display unit on top of the safe using the handy flip-out kickstand. The unit costs just $26.98 at Amazon.com.
GoldenRod Wireless Hygrometer Specifications and Features:
Measures In-Vault and In-Room humidity from 20% to 95%.
Measures In-Vault temperature range from 14°F to 122°F.
Measures In-Room temperature range from -4°F to 158°F.
Records Min/Max temperature and humidity history.
Another Important Accessory — GoldenRod for Inside the Safe
The GoldenRod, marketed as a dehumidifier, is a small, low-wattage electric heating element you place in the safe. Running 24/7 at 140° F, the GoldenRod warms the air in your safe. This changes relative humidity and raises the dew point in the safe so water vapor does not condense on your arms and valuable accessories. When combined with Desiccant packs that absorb moisture, the GoldenRod is extremely effective at keeping your guns rust-free during long-term storage. We do recommend wiping down your guns with Boeshield, Eezox, or Corrosion-X before putting them in storage. These are three of the best corrosion-inhibiting metal coatings you can buy.
You can get the 12″ GoldenRod heating unit for $31.99 on Amazon. There is also an 18″ model for $48.75 and a long 36″ GoldenRod for $39.99 on Amazon, just $8 more than the “foot-long”. The 36″ GoldenRod works well for cold climates and large safes. All GoldenRods come with a detachable plugs for easy installation. The 12″ is rated for 100 cubic foot safes, the 18″ for 200 cubic foot safes, while the 36″ model protects up to 500 cubic feet.
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USA GunClub also offers an Over-Under Hanger that holds two handguns — one above the shelf, and one below. A two-pack of Over-Under Hangers (capable of holding four handguns) costs $9.99 on Amazon. This may be a good solution for you. This Editor personally prefers the standard model, so I can use the upper surface of the shelf to hold odd-shaped items such as cameras, binoculars, and miscellaneous valuables.
Check Your Gun Safe Batteries
Check Your Gun Safe Batteries
In recognition of June as National Safety Month, the NSSF reminds guns owners that their most important responsibility is to store their firearms securely when not in use. New and long-time gun owners sometimes underestimate the danger of leaving firearms unsecured, which can potentially lead to such risks as: A child getting into a bedside table or closet and finding a loaded gun; A criminal stealing an unsecured firearm from one’s home or vehicle; or a teen at risk for suicide obtaining an adult’s firearm.
How do you safeguard a big-money collection of guns (without driving around in a Brinks armored truck)? One of the best storage systems available is the TruckVault, built in Washington state. TruckVaults are custom-fitted, locking storage cabinets that fit in a Pick-up truck bed, SUV, or station wagon. Various designs are available, including a waterproof “Extreme Series”. Both single-drawer and multi-draw layouts are offered with lengths up to 60″ overall, and top-load capacity of 2000 pounds. A variety of interior configurations are available.
Gunsafes can be fitted with either an electronic keypad-style lock, or a conventional dial lock. In our 
Tips for Dial Locks
Replace Electronic Lock Batteries Every Year
Here’s a smart new product that monitors the temperature and humidity inside your gun safe — with a convenient LCD display unit located on the outside of the safe. You don’t need to string wires or cut a small hole in your safe — there are two separate components, one inside and one outside. The sensor unit (on the inside) communicates wirelessly with the display unit (on the outside).
