Try Ballistol Lube for Case Sizing, STP for Neck Turning
If you’re using a body die or a full-length sizing die, try using Ballistol (in the aerosol can) as a lube. It works GREAT without the tacky or gooey residue left by most case lubes. It will also clean off carbon residues on the neck as you lube the case. Just spray a little on a cotton patch (or your fingertips) and wipe each case before you run it up into the die. If you are using a steel neck bushing, be sure to wipe the neck as well. You can usually do a half-dozen BR-sized cases before you need to re-apply Ballistol on the patch. Ballistol is non-toxic, bio-degradeable, and will not harm your skin. It is very slippery, but can easily be removed with a rag or paper towel. Try it–you may retire your One-Shot. Ballistol can also be used to protect wood stocks.
Note, for heavy case-forming or necking up case necks, we still recommend a thicker lubricant, such as Imperial Die Wax. But for normal case sizing, after your neck has been expanded, Ballistol will do the job, and you won’t need to tumble the brass afterwards. All you need is a very thin layer of Ballistol, and this easily wipes off with a paper towel.
For Neck-Turning, Try STP Blend or Assembly Lube
For lubing the neck-turning tool mandrel while turning case necks, many folks use a blend of STP® Oil Treatment and Mobil 1 lube. Chuckw2 reports: “Try STP and Mobile 1 Synthetic oil in a 50/50 mixture. Very slick, you will need to tumble your cases after turning.” STP is a very thick lubricant, that flows and clings almost like honey. Jason reports the STP blend comes off easily in an ultra-sound bath, using a bit of detergent. STP is also now available in a convenient 7-ounce tube, so you don’t have to buy a large bottle.
Another even cheaper option is assembly lubricant. For turning his case necks, RStreich uses assembly lube from an auto parts store. He notes: “The brand I have is reddish in color and kind of sticky like honey. It’s far better than the Imperial die wax I was using before.” There are a variety of types, both with and without moly additive, and you can select the viscosity you prefer if you sample a few brands. Be sure to clean out any lube residue from the inside of your necks when you have completed your neck-turning.
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Tags: Assembly Lube, Ballistol, Case lube, Neck-Turning, STP
For those of you that haven’t tried it, Ballistol is some of the best solvent and lube on the market. I am always suprised to see it doesn’t make it to the comparisions on this site. It works great on Moly and is much faster than Kroil. Try some!
While I support your recommendations (and appreciate them too – I’ve been using Ballistol as you suggest), you might point out that it is a petroleum product, mostly mineral oil, a by-product of gasoline distillation. Drugstore mineral oil or baby oil might behave similarly. From Ballistols’ MSDS sheet: “Ballistol is based on medicinal grade white mineral oil.”
Editor: Josh — Thanks for the correction. We presume the pine oil referenced in Ballistol marketing materials is merely part of the blend, to enhance the mineral oil base. Lest people wonder how a mineral oil can be non-toxic, consider that mineral oil is a common ingredient in baby oil and highly refined mineral oil is used in many food products. See: http://www.chow.com/food-news/55245/what-is-mineral-oil/
I have found that if a carbide mandrel is used, and the expander is well matched, that having a magic turning lube is much less important. Also, if a rough cut is used, a rather loose fit can be tolerated, with the final tolerance being achieved with the finish cut. By controlling fit, heat is greatly reduced, while maintaining precision. As far as cleaning is concerned, I would never tumble cases with thin turned necks. Perhaps a vibratory cleaner, or ultrasonic, but not a tumbler.
I have in the past made my own bullets and anyone who understands the huge forces applied to the various steps is well aware of the need for a superior lube with special properties to keep jackets and cores from sticking in the expensive dies and this must be done with a minimum thickness of lube.
What I use as a bullet lube is a mixture of anhydrous lanolin and petroleum jelly (ie Vaseline)to thin it…usually a 50/50 mix is close. You can also substitute castor oil for the petroleum jelly if one simply has to have the finest. Put all the ingredients in a glass bowl and put in the microwave for a few minutes and presto….one of the finest lubes you will ever need.It works well for turning necks or sizing cases. A hot bath in some dish washing liquid and then a trip to corn cob media in a vibratory cleaner will have them ready to go.
My wife uses the same lube mixture as a hand lotion and raves that there is none better.I keep a vile of it with me in the dry winter months to use as a lip balm…again there is none better .I hope this is useful.I might add that I made about 2 lbs of this lube over 20 yrs ago and I am still using it with plenty to go…a little of it goes a very long way.Roy
If you’re FL sizing brass from gass gun (like .308w from M1a or similar), then forget about the Ballistol. Only some proper heavy duty lubricants will prevent you from having too much problems.
Best case lube I’ve used has been Froglube