Sunday GunDay: Patriot 1000-Yard Rifles for Williamsport

Report by Andrew Murtagh
I’ve been a long range shooter for the past 17 years. Like most shooters in this game I’ve built, bought, and sold numerous rifles during my tenure. Here’s my tale of two special rifles, a Heavy Gun and a Light Gun, both sporting Patriotic stock graphics. I shoot both of these rifles in competition at Reade Range and The Original Pennsylvania 1000-Yard Club, aka “Williamsport”, where I serve as Club Vice-President.

My two Patriots were both acquired second-hand from a fellow shooter, Mike Bonchack. As purchased, they were very different from what they are now. I first decided to rechamber them using my reamers. The Light Gun (LG) is now chambered in 6×47 Lapua with 0.267″ neck, while the Heavy Gun (HG) is a 6mm Dasher with 0.266″ neck. After re-chambering the barrels, next I decided to get both guns up to maximum weight. The LG already had an adjustable weight system so it was easy to get it to 17 pounds. For the HG, I added an additional 25 pounds of lead/epoxy fill which was milled into the barrel channel and butt stock.

The Story Behind the Patriotic Graphics
I was initially going to have the LG painted until a close friend and fellow shooter, Tom Murtiff, suggested hydrographics. I landed on the patriotic theme because I’m a right-wing leaning Constitutionalist who still believes in the principles upon which our Founding Fathers built this nation. I wanted to express my support of our country’s Constitution and its Amendments. The search for the perfect patriot print was on.

This was my first hydrographic print experience and I was overwhelmed with the sheer number and variety of prints available. I spent a few days searching when I found the Amendment print. I then contacted Rick Schuh, owner of Boyzhid Hydrographics. He then prepped, hydro-dipped, and clear-coated the LG. Late in 2017 I purchased the HG and through a lengthy process in 2018 the metal work and stock additions were completed. I was now back in search of the perfect print. This was also lengthy, and I couldn’t find anything that spoke to me except for a suggestion to have “twin” rifles. I liked the idea — a pair of “Patriots!”

Rick was again employed to dip the Heavy Gun. That became a real undertaking because the stock alone (no metal attached) now weighed 35 pounds. He had to manufacture reinforced hangers to apply the graphics without flaw. The stock came out perfect to my eye, but not to his. On the bottom, which is rarely seen on any HG, he airbrushed a small flag to cover an area that stretched the print. Rick also made a jeweled plate for the toe of the butt.

I’m including this image so everyone can see Rick’s extra effort to make the HG perfect. I often joke with him about the added work no one would see. Well now the world can view his workmanship.

1000-Yard Heavy Gun Specifications:

Kelbly Stolle F-Class Panda dual-port, right eject with Kelbly Picatinny rail
Modified Ryan Miller HG stock bedded/pillared/weighted by David Powley
Bartlein 1:8.5-8″ gain-twist 0.236″ bore barrel
— chambered in 6mm Dasher 0.266″ neck by David Powley
Ryan Miller barrel-block fitted with nylon bushing by David Powley
Harrell’s muzzle brake
Jewell trigger
Optic One: NightForce 12-42x56mm NXS in Vortex rings
Optic Two: Leupold 7-35x56mm Mark 5 HD in Leupold rings

1000-Yard Light Gun Specifications:

BAT Machine B Action RB/LP/RE
McMillan MBR stock bedded by David Powley
Bartlein 1:8″-twist 0.237″ bore 30″ barrel
— chambered in 6×47 Lapua 0.267″ neck by David Powley
Harrell’s radial muzzle brake
Jewell trigger
NightForce 15-55x52mm Competition Scope in Harrell’s rings

Stock Graphics: Both rifles share a Patriot Constitution Hydrographic print (and clear-coat) by Rick Schuh of BoyzHid Hygrogaphics.

How to Succeed in the 1K Benchrest Games — Q & A with Andrew

Q: How Do You Choose a Chambering/Cartridge for a particular Match or Relay?

Andrew: Cartridge choice depends on the wind forecast. I always have several rifles with particular cartridge/loads for each depending on the forecast. If it’s a light wind day, say 4 to 8 mph with light gusts, I’ll be shooting either a 6×47 Lapua or a 6mm Dasher. If it’s blowing around 10 to 12 mph, I’ll campaign a 6×47 on its high node to get it down range flat. But if it’s really blowing or constantly changing direction, I shoot a big .300 WSM with either 200gr or 210gr bullet.

Q: What Is Your Load Development Method?

Andrew: Initial load development is always done over the chronograph at 100 yards until I get low ES/SD for 5 shots utilizing the same 10 pieces of absolutely perfect brass. Once I’m satisfied with the raw data I move to 1000 yards with a set of match brass and shoot 5-shot strings to find the best-performing exact powder charge. I have found this is usually within 0.20 grains of what performs well over the chronograph.

Q: What Brass, Primers, Powders, and Bullets Do You Use?

Andrew: I use Lapua brass for all things 6mm and Norma brass for my big .30 Cal stuff. I never change primers and shoot CCI BR2s or BR4s. I’m a Varget and H4350 fan. I’ve tried other powders, but they never were fruitful at 1K. Currently the only bullets I shoot are Sierra Match Kings. In the 6mm Dasher and 6×47 Lapua I use the 6mm 107gr SMK. In my .300 WSM I use .308-cal 200gr and 210gr SMKs.

Q: What Advice Do You Have for Novice 1000-Yard Competitors?

Andrew: Leave your ego at home and be willing to learn each and every time you come to the range. The discipline evolves rapidly and so must the shooter. It won’t take long to get left behind and become extremely frustrated with the game if you are not willing to learn and adapt. Find a tutor who is a great shooter and who is willing to mentor you. John Hoover and Tom Murtiff helped me and are very dear friends and great 1000-yard shooters. Believe me, having a good mentor takes years off the learning curve. Lastly, enroll in the Benchrest Shooting School offered by The Original Pennsylvania 1000 Yard Benchrest Club. I’m an instructor there and I, along with all the cadre, will help new shooters rapidly advance their skills.

Q: What’s the Secret to Judging the Wind? (In this discipline there are no target markers after each shot.)

Andrew: That’s the million-dollar question. What I do is find the condition that seems to hold. Once I’m committed into the record string, I follow it to the end. At Williamsport the wind flags can change at every distance so you simply need to pick one flag and hope it’s the one that remains truthful.

Invitation to Join Andrew at Williamsport in Pennsylvania
I currently serve as Vice President of The Original Pennsylvania 1000 Yard Benchrest Club, PA1000yard.com. Situated near the municipality of Williamsport, Pennsylvania, it has become known as the “Williamsport Club”. We would like to invite any shooting enthusiast to come out and visit our club during a match weekend. My rifles are only a sampling of the beauty and craftsmanship that is often on display at Williamsport’s 1000-yard line. Please stop by and visit with us.

Here are UPCOMING EVENTS at our club this summer and in 2021:

Light Gun and Heavy Gun Match #5, August 22/23, 2020
Light Gun and Heavy Gun Match Match #6, September 12/13, 2020
Light Gun and Heavy Gun Match Match #7, September 26/27, 2020

Long Range Benchrest School June, 2021
Annual 1000-Yard World Open Match July, 2021

Andrew wanted to give credit to the many talented guys who have helped with his rifle builds and his reloading equipment. In alphabetical order, these are Mike Bonchack, John Hoover, Tom Murtiff, David Powley, and Rich Schuh (Boyzhid Hydrographics).

BONUS Topic — Case Prep and Loading for 1000-Yard Benrchest

Accurate loading, in my opinion, all starts with perfect brass. I always use Lapua or Norma brass, and when I buy it I try to purchase no less than 500 of the same lot. Most shooters sort by weight and I do as well, but it’s the last thing I do instead of the first. My reasoning behind this is simple, if I’m going to uniform primer pocket, ream and debur flash holes, turn necks, trim cases to length I’m removing lots of material. Therefore the weights change drastically from where they started. That said weight sort at the end, period. I do the entire lot at one time — a labor of love.

Now that we have that straight let’s start. Get out your annealer (AMP or Bench-Source) and put all your brass through the annealing process. This is especially important if you are reforming case necks up or down in caliber size. I believe that it makes for more uniformity and ease in neck-turning.

Now that you’ve annealed the cases you’ll need to remove whatever was transferred to the case surface during the refractory and clench process. You’ll also want to lightly chamfer and debur the cases. To clean them, simply use either #0000 steel wool or a red scratch pad on the neck/shoulder exterior and a nylon brush in the mouth/neck area. By practicing this process after annealing you are being good to your dies. If you regularly skip this step you can easily scratch their interior surface, and once that happens ALL your cases will suffer.

Next I size and expand the brass. This is done in a two-step process. First I size on a standard FL die that has had the decapping rod and expander mandrel removed. Then I will expand the cases on a K&M expanding mandrel. Important — be sure to lube the stem and the inside of the neck with case lube (e.g. Mike’s Case Lube) or graphite. If you don’t lube the cases you risk pushing the neck down into the body of the case!

Now you’re ready to remove some material from the cases. Trim all your cases to their minimum or standard length. Don’t worry if some are short as I have found that the short ones end up in the same lot at the end when they are weight-sorted. Chamfer and debur always by hand — outside first then inside.

Neck-turning comes next, now that all our case lengths are basically all the same. I turn my necks at 200 RPM on my lathe with a Sinclair case holder and a K&M Neck Turning tool. This can also be accomplished with an adjustable drill held in a vice and whatever turner you choose.

IMPORTANT: The key to good, clean, uniform, and concentric necks is a little higher speed while keeping the mandrel constantly cool. Keep the cutting tool clean and cool. REPEAT: keep it clean and cool! Use oil, case lube, and lots of air to blow the chips from your cutter. I will check every case’s neck wall thickness at the start and then every fifth case for 20, and then every tenth thereafter.

Once the necks are turned, I uniform the flash holes with a K&M hand tool. This tool will debur AND ream the flash holes in one step. Next I’ll uniform the primer pockets using the uniforming tool on a powdered RCBS case prep center.

Now it’s time to anneal the brass again. Yes, anneal your cases AGAIN. Through the many stages of case prep and neck-turning, you have possibly work-hardened the cases making their neck tension and spring-back inconsistent or erratic. Also remember to clean the cases as well — be good to your tools!

Finally, after final annealing, I weight-sort my cases to within 0.10 grain on a good scale. Yes, I recommend sorting to the tenth of a grain, not one-half a grain.

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Tags: 1000 Yard Benchrest, Andrew Murtagh, Annealing, BAT action, Case Prep, Heavy Gun, Kelbly Panda, Neck-Turning, Sunday Gunday, The Original Pennsylvania 1000 Yard Club, Weight Sort, Williamsport