New Lens Reducer Product May Benefit Some Scope Users
“Ever had trouble calling your shots? Everything looked and felt great and you swore it was a 10, but it came up as a wide 9? This may be a result of inconsistent eye placement behind the optic. Here’s an affordable solution to help you stay in the 10 Ring.” — Creedmoor Sports
Here is an interesting new product. This scope accessory attaches to the rear (ocular) lens on a scope. It has a center hole in the middle that can help get you on target faster, and get your eye exactly centered in the scope. That will eliminate certain parallax errors.
This scope accessory was invented by White Oak, which calls it a lens reducer assembly. This features a transparent lens with a chamfer around the center hole which acts as a ghost ring, centering your eye in middle of the optic. The transparent lens allows a full field of view so you can still see surrounding targets and target numbers. The lens is held in place by a Butler Creek lens cap.
White Oak’s unique “ghost ring” design allows a full field of view so you can still see surrounding targets and target numbers but acts as a ghost ring centering your eye in the hole, minimizing effects of parallax and helping you call your shots better.
The Lens Reducer Assembly is currently offered by Creedmoor Sports for these three optics PLUS other scopes which use the same Butler Creek Cover listed after each scope:
Konus XTC-30, $34.95, (Butler Creek #18 lens cover)
Weaver K-4, $34.95, (Butler Creek #09A lens cover)
Vortex PST 1-4, $34.95, (Butler Creek #14 lens cover)
To Install: Simply press the lens into the lens cap until it is against the shoulder inside the cap. It will be a snug fit, the snug fit ensures the hole is centered. Then install the lens cap on your scope as usual.
NOTE: Some folks may look at this and be concerned that the grayish chamfered ring will obscure vision. Yes and no. The actual “image” that comes through the scope is a very small-diameter circle of light (“exit pupil”) that will fit fully inside the small, unobscured, fully open circle. So if your head is properly centered there will be NO obstruction. However, if you get out of alignment, then, yes, you’ll see the gray chamfered area, just as you’d see the outside of a ghost ring sight.
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Tags: Creedmoor Sports, Ghost Ring, Service Rifle, Service Rifle Scope, White Oak Lens Reducer
I was told, years ago, that optimal light transmission through a scope was with an exit pupil of 7mm (ish) This is because the MAXIMUM iris size on an adult human eye is 7mm (ish). Note that the German and Austrian scope -makers have known about this for a LONG time.
Hence the classic Kahles 8 x 56. Huh? I hear you say.
Exit pupil can be calculated by dividing the nominal diameter of the objective lense by the nominal magnification. Thus, 56 divided by 8 equals seven. Simple. a BIGGER exit pupil is pointless because light / image transmitted outside the nominal 7mm will not enter the eye and is “wasted”. Hence, building scopes with optimum light transmission, especially in low light, as widely used in stand hunting in gloomy European forests.
Putting a supplementary aperture on the back of a scope will help the shooter stay “optically centered”; a useful thing in a world of variable optics quality and imperfectly-fitted stocks.
Caveat is that the higher the magnification of the scope, the greater chance of parallax errors, especially in “variable” optics. “Budget” low power scopes can also suffer from this, simply because corners were cut to deliver the goods at a a low price. I have seen “Mil-Spec 1.5x optics with bad parallax errors.
Theoretically, a correctly assembled, fixed power scope, built from correctly ground elements, should show very little parallax.
How do you detect parallax?
Fis the optis or the complete rifle in a scure rest and set the reticule on a target at a moderate distance, say 100 yards.
Look away from the scope, then look back and slowly move your head in a circle (NOT “Exorcist” style) but so that you are looking “off-axis” through the scope. A “good scope will still show the reticule centered on the target.
With a dubious scope, the reticule will appear to “float” around the original aiming point on the target.