Emil Kovan is one of the top F-Class shooters in the world. He won the 2014 United States F-Open Championship, finished second at the 2015 USA Nationals, and then finished second at the 2016 Canadian F-Open Nationals. Most recently Emil was a member of the World Championship-winning F-Open Team USA that competed this spring in South Africa. He definitely knows what it takes to build top-tier F-Open rifles. Today’s feature story first ran a few seasons back, and today there are some more stock and optics options, but this is still a very impressive F-Open rig. To learn more about the latest F-0pen Magnum chambering options read Emil Kovan’s recent Daily Bulletin story, Cartridges for F-Class — Rise of the Magnums.
“What are the best components for an F-Open class rifle, and why?” That’s a question that I get asked all the time and will try to answer in this article. Two months ago, I was contacted by Duane, a gentleman I met at the 2015 F-Class Nationals. He was interested in building a rifle with the impressive Master Class Low Profile F-Open Stock, created by Carl Bernosky and Alex Sitman of Master Class Stocks.
I have known Alex Sitman for many years, and use his stocks exclusively, but was not very familiar with his new Low Profile F-Open stock. After a brief conversation with Alex, I placed an order, and had the stock inletted and bedded at my shop in a month. My first impression was “Wow that’s a long stock” — the forearm is significantly longer than on the original Master Class F-Class prone stock. I bolted the barreled action in, and squeezed the end of the forearm and barrel together, the stock flexed a little bit, but not as much as other designs that I have tested. I think that’s due to having “more meat” in the receiver area. The full stock depth continues farther forward that on some other “low profile” designs. That makes the stock stiffer in the vertical plane, reducing the hinging effect forward of the action. The stock was finished in gloss black per the customer’s request. Interestingly, I found that the multiple layers of paint and clearcoat stiffened the stock up quite a bit.
CLICK IMAGE below for full-screen version
Low Center of Gravity Tames Torque
Compared to the original Master Class F-Open stock, the barrel sits about an inch lower. Lower center of gravity equals less torque, and that is very important when shooting heavy bullets in fast twist barrels. Another significant improvement is that the toe of the stock is flat and parallel to the forearm. I added a 3/4″ track rail in the rear, and milled the underside of the fore-end to create two parallel “rails” in the front to help the stock track better.
One of the biggest reasons why I like Master Class stocks, is the pistol grip. I don’t shoot “free recoil” and a comfortable pistol grip is super important to me when selecting a stock. The new Master Class Low Profile stock shares the same grip as the old model. This allows the stock to accommodate either a “hard hold” style or a more free-recoil style of shooting — whatever the rifle’s owner prefers. This design versatility is one reason I recommend Master Class stocks. Shooters may experiment with either shooting style to find what suits them best.
Cartridge Choice — A 40° .284 Win Improved
Duane decided to have the barrel chambered for my 284 KMR IMP (Improved) wildcat. What is .284 KMR IMP and why choose it over the straight .284 Winchester? Improved by definition means “made better”, I took a great cartridge, and modified it to increase capacity, reduce pressure, and increase brass life.
There are many “improved” variants of the original .284 Winchester: 7mm Walker, .284 Shehane, .284 Ackley and so on. My version, the 284 KMR IMP, shares the .010″ blown-out sidewalls of the .284 Shehane, but I have further increased the case capacity by changing the shoulder angle from 35 to 40 degrees. The 284 KMR IMP allows you to almost match magnum cartridge velocity in a standard-bolt-face action. If you want to run 180gr-class 7mm bullets over 2900 FPS, it is cheaper and more convenient to have a barrel chambered in 284 KMR IMP than to spend $650 for a magnum bolt.
Tuning Loads for the .284 Win Improved Cartridges
The 284 KMR IMP seems to have two nodes, one around 2820 fps and other at 2940 fps. My match load clocks at 2935 fps with single-digit ES. Note –I selected that load based on accuracy, NOT raw speed. A lot of novice (or hard-headed) shooters make the mistake to push their cartridges to the max, and disregard more accurate loads at lower velocity.
The sport of F-Class is rapidly growing, and the equipment used is improving constantly. I remember that only few years ago, an F-Open rifle that could shoot sub-one-inch of vertical at 300 yards was considered competitive. Now, we are pursuing sub-one-inch vertical at 600 yards! It takes a great rifle to approach that goal, but it is also up to the shooter to learn and experiment as much as possible in order to achieve success.
Dies for an Improved .284 Win Cartridge
One of the biggest challenges in campaigning a wildcat cartridge has been obtaining great dies. When searching for custom dies, it almost seems like that the odds are stacked against us. The most common problem is wait-time — custom die orders can take months to be completed. Also, most custom die makers want you to send them two or three cases, each fire-formed three times. I find that funny because if could somehow properly size the cases for three fire-forming cycles, I would not need a sizing die.
Custom-made dies should size the case just right, but sometimes the die’s internal dimensions are slightly off, and this leads to problem number two: dies sizing too much (or even worse) too little. I had a one “custom” die that would not size the bottom of the case enough. This made the extraction of fired cases very difficult. I feel that the best option (if available) for shooters interested in wildcat chambers is to have their gunsmiths make the dies. I offer that die-making service in addition to barrel chambering.
BAT Machine “M” Action
Duane decided to use a BAT M action for this rifle, and I think that he could not have made a better choice. We are blessed with many good match-quality receivers: Barnard, BAT, Borden, Kelbly, Nesika, and Stiller just to mention a few. These are all very well-made and suitable for F-Class. Among BAT Machine Co.actions, I like BAT models M, MB, and 3LL best. I prefer these because because of their size (large bedding footprint) smoothness, timing, options available, and last but not least visual appearance.
Trigger: I recommend and use Jewell triggers. Other good options are: Kelbly, CG Jackson (good 2-Stage) Anschutz (best 2-Stage for Bat and Kelbly actions), Bix’N Andy, and David Tubb.
Barrel: Duane made another good choice here. He decided to go with a Brux 1:8.5″-twist, 4-groove cut-rifled barrel. If you look at the F-Class and Long Range benchrest equipment lists, you will see that cut-rifled barrels are currently dominating. Many records have been shot with both button-rifled, and cut-rifled barrels. I have shot both, and prefer cut-rifled barrels. I am not saying that button-rifled barrels are not capable of shooting as well as cut-rifled barrels, but on average, in my experience, four out of five cut-rifled barrels (from top makers) will shoot well, vs. three out of five buttoned barrels. YMMV, but this is what I’ve observed.
Scope: Duane’s rifle was fitted with a Nightforce 15-55x52mm Competition scope with DDR-2 reticle. This optic is ultra clear, reasonably lightweight (28 oz.), super reliable, and has 1/8 MOA clicks — what you want for long range F-Class competition. In this 15-55X NF model, I like the DDR-2 reticle best, because fine cross hairs (FCH) are hard to see in heavy mirage. The DDR-2 has a heavier horizontal line, with a center dot. March scopes are also very popular and very well-made.
Thanks for reading, and keep ‘em in the middle…
About Emil Kovan Along with being a skilled, respected gunsmith, Emil Kovan has been a very successful F-Class competitor. He was U.S. F-Open National Champion in 2014, and finished second at the U.S. F-Open Nationals in 2015. Most recently he was a member of the World Championship-winning F-Open Team USA that competed this spring in South Africa. He definitely knows what it takes to build top-tier F-Open rifles.
– 2014 F-Class Open National Champion
– 2015 F-Class Open National Championship, Silver Medal
– F-Class Open National Championship Teams, 2015, 2014, 2013, Shooting Team Member
– Over 15 wins in Regional and State Championships in Palma, F-TR, F-Open
– 2013 U.S. National Team Member
– 2023 F-Open Gold Medal Team USA Member, 2023 World Championship in South Africa
BONUS Reading: F-Open Magnum Cartridge Options
Thinking about building a new F-Open rifle? Not sure about the chambering choice ? CLICK HERE to read Emil Kovan’s recent July 2023 article outlining the most popular magnum cartridges for F-Open competition. The .284 Win is still a great option, but bigger magnums do have some advantages.
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A while back, RifleShooter online magazine published a list of the purported Ten Best Bolt-Action Rifles of All Time. Ten classic rifle designs (including the Remington 700, Winchester Model 70, Weatherby V, and Mauser 98) were featured with a paragraph or two explaining their notable features.
“Best” Lists Stir Controversy…
These Top 10 lists are always controversial. While most readers might approve of half the entries, there are always some items on the Top 10 list that some readers would challenge. Here is RifleShooter’s Top 10 list. What do you think? Are there some other bolt-actions that are more deserving?
1. Springfield M1903
2. Mauser 98
3. Winchester Model 70
4. Remington Model 700
5. Weatherby V
6. Sako L61/AV
7. Savage Model 110
8. Ruger M77
9. Tikka T3
10. Mannlicher-Schonauer
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A good case trimmer is an essential tool for precision hand-loading. To ensure consistent loads, you want your cases to be the exact same length. Today’s Saturday Showcase features five trimming tools, both powered and manually operated, that can trim your sized brass with great precision. In addition, some of these tools will also chamfer case necks inside and out. The powered case trimmers will save you considerable time (and effort) when working will large batches of brass.
Lead photo shows the Henderson Gen 2 trimmer from Panhandle Precision video review.
Henderson Gen 3 Power Trimmer — Ultimate Reloader Review
Gavin Gear of UltimateReloader.com has tested the impressive Henderson Gen 3 (V3) Trimmer. You’ll find a full write-up on Gavin’s website, and you can watch Gavin’s 18.7-minute video review above.
Gavin states: “The Henderson Gen 3 case trimmer is built on an adjustable tri-trim 3-way cutter with different pilots to accommodate different case necks. Three-way cutters trim to length and chamfer the inside and outside all at once. This trimmer has a 1700 RPM spindle and a custom DC motor made in the USA. The Henderson trimmer works much like a milling machine. You do not need much torque because of the way the taper works. The Henderson Gen 3 trimmer delivered outstanding cartridge length consistency after trimming. This trimmer is fast and easy to use and most importantly, returns consistent results.”
CLICK HERE for Henderson Gen 2 Trimmer video review, which shows how to how to set trim length and change cutter heads, using 6.5×47 Lapua, .260 Remington, and .300 Winchester Magnum cases.
Giraud Power Case Trimmer — Full Review by Erik Cortina
In this video, Erik Cortina of CortinaPrecision.com offers some very clever and useful tips that will help you get the most from your Giraud powered case trimmer. The Giraud trimmer is very precise. When set up correctly, it can trim brass with amazing consistency.
In the video, Erik trims 5 pieces of brass in 15 seconds (6:32 mark). He then measures all five with precision calipers (7:00-8:08). All lengths are exact within .0005 (half a thousandth). Erik notes that the Giraud trimmer indexes off the case shoulder. As long as you have fire-formed brass with consistent base-to-shoulder dimensions, you should get very consistent trim lengths.
Lyman Powered Case Trimmer Review
The Lyman Case Trim Xpress is an efficient, precise unit that allows easy adjustment of trim length with a click-adjustable collar. The trimmer comes with a set of cartridge-specific bushings that index off the case shoulder. One nice feature is a variable speed control. For the price, $146.20 on Amazon, this trimmer delivers excellent performance. To see more details, check out F-Class John’s video review of the Lyman Case Trim Xpress which shows set-up and operation.
Frankford Arsenal Universal Case Trimmer (for Power Drills)
This video features a handy tool that attaches to a portable drill. Used with various diameter collets, this can trim most popular sizes of shouldered brass. The universal collet system indexes on case shoulders for precise and consistent trimming (this does NOT work with straight-walled cartridges). The built-in depth micrometer allows for quick and precise micro-adjustments. There is a handy brass shaving ejection port. The system works well, particularly if you can stabilize your power drill in one position. This Frankford Arsenal trimmer, under $65.00 on Amazon, is an affordable alternative to the top-end powered case trimmers. It comes with a handy plastic case that holds the trimmer and collets.
L.E. Wilson Manual Case Trimmer
L.E. Wilson, makers of hand dies, case trimmers and other precision reloading tools, has videos whoe Wilson stainless steel case trimmer with micrometer adjustment (photo below). The first video explains the operation of the Wilson trimmer and shows how to initially assemble the tool, attach the handle, and set the cut length.
This second video shows how to set up the stainless Wilson trimmer with micrometer cut-length control. The micrometer feature allows you to set the cartridge overall trim length with great precision. If you are trimming a variety of different cartridge types, the micrometer cut length control comes in very handy.
BONUS Video: How Important is Consistent Case Length?
This Primal Rights video explains why it is important to maintain precise case lengths if you want best accuracy and most consistent ES/SD. You’ll want to size your cases BEFORE trimming if your trimmer indexes off the case shoulders.
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Here’s a handy new item, particularly if you load large quantities of bulk ammo for a variety of firearms. Lyman’s new Ammo Checkers check the diameters of reloaded rounds and factory ammo, so you can quickly confirm that your ammo fits a standard chamber. Just drop your loaded rounds in the Ammo Checker, and if the round fits into the gauge, it will fit in the gun’s chamber.
Lyman Ammo Checkers are multi-caliber — each orange block checks six or eight different cartridge types, with each caliber/cartridge name engraved on the gauge. Ammo Checkers are machined to SAAMI minimum chamber dimensions from solid blocks of 6061 T6 aluminum. Ammo Checkers are available in three versions covering most common handgun and rifle calibers:
Handgun Ammo Checker (#7833000) $35.99 at Brownells
Fits: 380 Auto, 9mm Luger, 38 Super, 40 S&W, 45 ACP, 38/357, 44 Spl/Mag, and 45 Colt
Why Use a Case Gauge?
We find that case gauges like the Lyman Ammo Checker are particularly useful for handgun reloaders using progressive presses. The chambers of many popular semi-auto pistols are partly unsupported. This allows the case to swell in the bottom quarter. The case may not be sized adequately by your sizing die, which can lead to misfeeds or malfunctions.
Additionally, if you have loaded a large quantity of ammo for a semi-auto rifle such as an AR15, it’s not a bad idea to check your cartridges before you load them into your magazines. All you need is one mis-sized round to cause a stoppage. That will ruin your day if you are competing in a Service Rifle match or 3-Gun event.
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We know our many of our readers enjoy Prairie Dog varminting safaris. For long P-Dog shots you’ll definitely want a centerfire. We like the 20 Practical in an AR and a 22 BR/BRA in a bolt-action. That will have you covered out to 700 yards. But for shorter shots on small critters — say inside 150 yards — it makes sense to have an accurate 17 HMR rimfire rig. Today’s 17 HMRs are capable of surprising accuracy, rivaling a good centerfire rig, but with way less recoil and much lower cost per shot. And the 17 HMR offers more than double the velocity of a .22 LR — up to 2650 fps with a 17-grain bullet.
Top Shot former Champion Dustin Ellerman likes his Volquartsens, and we can see why. With one of his favorite 17 HMR rimfire varmint rigs, he’s seen some outstanding accuracy with CCI ammo. A few seasons back, on his Facebook page, Dustin reported: “Prepping for prairie dogs and I’m floored by this cold, sub-half-inch group shot with the Volquartsen Custom 17 HMR at 100 yards.” This thumbhole-stock rifle features a Bowers Group USS suppressor, and 3-12x56mm Meopta Scope. Dustin tried different types of CCI 17 HMR ammo. This small group was shot with CCI A17 ammo.
What’s the effective range of a 17 HMR on prairie dogs? You might be surprised. in 2015, Dustin took another Volquartsen 17 HMR on a Prairie Dog hunt in Wyoming. He was impressed with the rifle (shown below) and the little rimfire cartridge. Dustin says the effective range of the 17 HMR is farther than one might expect: “I made hits out to 300 yards. 200 yards was easy as long as the wind wasn’t too bad.”
Here’s the Volquartsen 17 HMR Dustin used in Wyoming in 2015:
After that 2015 P-Dog expedition, Dustin became a fan of the 17 HMR cartridge: “Never paid it much attention before now because the ammo is five times more expensive than .22 LR and I mostly target shoot. However, for prairie dogs, the 17 HMR is amazing!” Consider this — Hornady’s 17 HMR ammo pushes a 17gr V-Max bullet at 2550 fps, twice as fast as typical .22 LR rounds.
Prairie Dog Adventure with Savage A17
This video shows a successful Prairie Dog hunt. Watch and you’ll see hits out to 160 yards (00:50), proving the effective range of the 17 HMR cartridge. The host is shooting a Savage A17 semi-auto 17 HMR rifle in a Boyds laminated stock.
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Wouldn’t it be nice to have a print resource that has hundreds of true-size cartridge illustrations, plus technical descriptions of thousands of popular cartridge types? That could be a real time-saver. It’s no wonder this Ammo Encyclopedia book is an Amazon category best-seller.
If you’re a serious shooter, the latest 7th Edition of the Ammo Encyclopedia belongs in your library. This 928-page book by Charles Priore Jr. and Lisa Buening is probably the most comprehensive and up-to-date book in print covering current and classic cartridges and shotshells. The Ammo Encyclopedia is a massive resource work. The 7th Edition, released in October 2022, now boasts 100+ chapters, covering thousands of handgun, rifle, and shotgun cartridges. This 928-page softcover book sells for $44.42 on Amazon.
One of the best features is a full-color section depicting actual size drawings of over 300 current rimfire/centerfire cartridges and shotshells. You won’t find that many “life-size” cartridge drawings in one place even on the internet. Cartridge profiles and ballistic charts have been expanded to include many new factory cartridges. An expanded Trademark Index lists contact information for all current ammunition manufacturers.
For the 7th Edition, over 150 cartridge types have been added. And dozens of previously proprietary cartridges now have individual profiles. An expanded color section shows current centerfire, rimfire, and shotshell cartridges in full color. Plus updated Ballistic Tables provide muzzle velocity, dimensions, and page numbers for the corresponding cartridge profile pages.
Comments from guys who bought the book:
“[The Ammo Encyclopedia is] better than Cartridges of the World. Much better editing and more accurate.” — John Guibert
“The amount and depth of detail provided is beyond impressive. An enormous amount of time and thought went into this latest version of the Ammo Encyclopedia.” — BW Kreisler
“I have many books on firearms and ammunition acculmulated over a few decades. This is by far the best and most comprehensive book on ammunition that I have ever seen. It is a must have reference source for everthing ammunition whether for current or obsolete and the history behind them.” – Eric
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The Shooting Sports USA website includes two excellent articles about the basics of metallic cartridge reloading. These two articles provide an excellent summary of the key procedures. If you are new to reloading, we recommend you read both articles:
Part II is particularly helpful because it explains the entire reloading process step-by-step, with 14 listed steps. The author notes: “In this, the second installment on metallic cartridge reloading, we’ll follow the sequence of steps involved in reloading a rifle cartridge and refining a metallic cartridge load. These steps are based on the use of a single-stage reloading press and a separate priming tool.”
Much important advice is provided as this article runs through the 14 Steps of Reloading. For example, when explaining Step 13, Bullet Seating, the article states:
“Proper seating depth is critical. Too much bullet protrusion and the cartridge may not work through the gun’s magazine, or it may fail to chamber. Too little and the bullet intrudes excessively into the powder chamber, decreasing volume and raising pressure. Neck tension is also important; any bullet that fails to seat with some resistance may be held only loosely by the neck and may be driven back into the case when the round is chambered, especially in semi-automatic arms.”
Important Guide to Detecting Over-Pressure Signs in Brass
As an example of the invaluable advice provided in these two articles, here’s a sample from Part II that explains how to determine if your load is over-pressure. We recommend that EVERY reader read this twice. There are more things to consider than a stiff bolt lift. You need to inspect cartridges very carefully:
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A few seasons back, I wrote an article on cartridge choices for F-Class shooters. CLICK HERE to READ ARTICLE. Since the first article I wrote, F-Class has continued to grow, and push the limits of precision and accuracy. While the .284 Win and its variants are still the most common F-Open cartridges, more and more top F-Open shooters are using magnum cartridge types to win competitions and set new records. In this article, I will list some of the advantages and disadvantages of the most commonly used magnums, and will cover the strengths and weaknesses of each one of them.
Performance factors we will consider for magnum F-Open cartridges include:
1. Equal or better accuracy than standard chambers
2. Better ballistic performance
3. Enhanced case life
4. Barrel life
Accuracy Potential of Magnum Cartridges for F-0pen Competition
John Meyrs has won four National Mid-Range Championships using the .300 WSM. Tim Vought used the same cartridge to win two Mid-Range Nationals and used a 7-6.5 PRC to win the long range Nationals. Standard .437″ case head (.308 Win head size) cartridges still have more Nationals wins overall, but the magnums are quickly catching up, and my prediction is that magnums will dominate soon.
The accuracy and precision potential of magnums used in F-Class (.300 WSM, 7-270 WSM, 7mm RSAUM or “7 SAUM”, 7-6.5 PRC) is better than non-magnum cartridges because their shapes are closer to the ideal “fat/short” body associated with wider nodes and extreme precision. For example a .300 WSM is proportionally much closer to the 6 PPC, 6 Dasher, and 6 BRA than is the .284 Winchester.
Stunning F-Open rifle with SEB Mini front rest with Blake Machine accessories.
The first thing that comes to mind when magnums are discussed is power and speed. In my humble opinion most shooters are missing out on accuracy because they push their magnums right past the most stable and accurate nodes. Recently I met my good friend from the Army Marksmanship Unit, SFC Brandon Green, at a shooting competition. We discussed the latest and greatest in long-range shooting. I knew that the USAMU had switched from 6.5-284 Norma to 7mm RSAUM several years back, but didn’t know what load they are currently using. Brandon told me that the load featured Berger 180gr hybrids in Nosler cases at 2820 fps. We all know that the 7 SAUM is capable of much higher speeds, “but at around 2820 fps the load/rifle combo will hammer the X-Ring anywhere under any conditions” SFC Green said.
F-Open rifles on the firing line at the Ben Avery Shooting Facility in Phoenix, Arizona.
Most shooters jump right into magnum territory velocities when testing, missing out on better precision at standard chamber speeds. For example, my 30 KMR can easily reach 2880 fps with 230gr Hybrids, and it actually shoots pretty good. But the same rifle at around 2770 fps will absolutely hammer the X-Ring in any condition anywhere. When it’s all said and done, F-Class is a long-range shooting competition at a known distance which requires extreme precision and accuracy. It is not a speed race.
IMPORTANT — Case-Head Dimensions Do Make a Difference
Magnums, when shot within reasonable velocities, on average will give better case life due to the bigger case + lower pressure and “more meat” in the case-head area. For example a 7 SAUM case will outlast a .284 Win case when both are loaded to around 2900 fps.
Disadvantages of Magnum F-Open Cartridges
Perhaps the biggest disadvantage linked to magnums is recoil. Some people complain about developing the “gun shy” syndrome after shooting a magnum for a while. Muzzle blast and recoil are significantly more pronounced in magnums, but that can be easily managed with a properly-built rifle equipped with appropriate recoil mitigation hardware such as RAD and the various butt plates.
F-Open rifle equipped with recoil reduction buttpad system.
Barrel Life — “Barrels are Expendable Components”
It is true that certain magnums can torch a barrel in just a few hundred rounds. But the same is true when improving a 6BR to 6 Dasher for example — barrel life might be reduced significantly. More powder = more heat = diminished accuracy after a certain round count. In my experience, a F-Open magnum’s barrel life is very close to high-performance standard cartridges such as the .284 Shehane or .284 KMR. I “retire” my barrels around 1200 rounds regardless of the cartridge being a magnum or not. After that many rounds most barrels will still shoot OK but will copper up, and you will start seeing those unexplained vertical 9s. The bottom line is this, barrels are expendable components very much like brass. You can’t get the performance of .300 WSM and the barrel life of the .308 Win at the same time. If you want to race in NASCAR, fuel mileage should not be the top priority!
Top Magnum Cartridge Types Used in F-Class Open Division
.300 Winchester Short Magnum
The .300 WSM (Winchester Short Magnum) tops the popularity chart in F-Class Open division. It has been used to win numerous National championships and has set many National records. The .300 WSM’s short/fat case shape, with minimal body taper and 35-degree shoulder, contribute greatly to its outstanding performance at long range. Components are readily available as well. Best brass remains to be Norma, although ADG is just as good and some would even say better, but it is more expensive and harder to get at this time.
The .300 WSM has been described as a “super-sized Dasher”.
For the .30-cal magnums, in my opinion, the best bullets by far are made by Berger. If your rifle does not shoot 215gr, 230gr hybrids, or 210gr VLDs well, you likely have a rifle problem, NOT a bullet issue. My “go to” bullet is the Berger 230gr Hybrid. The 215-grainer is a close second, followed by Berger’s accurate but ballistically inferior 210gr VLD, which I use in calm and steady conditions.
Top powders for the .300 WSM are Hodgdon H4831SC and H4350. I know there are many more powders suitable for the .300 WSM cartridge, but none I have used can match Hodgdon’s consistency when shot in different geographical locations and weather conditions.
7mm Remington Short Action Ultra Magnum
The 7mm RSAUM (aka 7 SAUM) used to be the darling of F-Open. Its case capacity and shape are about perfect for launching 180gr pills with great ballistics and precision. Its popularity faded a little, due to the lack of good brass, and the rise of the improved versions of the .284 Win which can almost match the RSAUM performance. Norma still makes 7 RSAUM brass which is pretty good but little on the soft side and hard to find. ADG is arguably producing the best RSAUM brass right now. It is very uniform, reasonably priced, and seems to hold up very well even when pushed hard. The best bullets are again made by Berger, and those are the 180gr hybrid, 184gr hybrid, and 180gr VLD. Best powders are H4831sc, H4350, and Alliant Reloder 16 and Reloder 23.
7-270 WSM, 7-300 WSM, and 7 WSM
The first two are pretty much identical, the only difference being that the 7-270 WSM is necked up .270 WSM while the 7-300 WSM is a .300 WSM necked down to 7mm. I personally prefer the first one since necking-up is easier than necking-down (with fewer doughnut issues).
The WSM case-based 7mms will give you great velocity flexibility as well as superb precision when tuned well. In the 2013 world championship in Raton NM, I was scoring for a gentleman from Canada who was shooting 7-270 WSM. The wind was blowing pretty hard that day. On one of his shots, just before he pulled the trigger the wind gusted. I remember thinking that’s going to be an 8 for sure. The target came up a line 10! I asked him after the match what he was shooting, and he replied 180s at 3100fps. Although capable of such speeds, I think that potentially better and more consistent accuracy can be achieved at much slower speeds. The best powders and bullets are again Hodgdon and Berger respectively. Best cases are made by Norma and ADG, with Winchester being a third option.
7-6.5 PRC — Popular Wildcat
Last but not least on our chart is the 7-6.5 PRC. This particular cartridge is actually a wildcat. It is a 6.5 PRC necked up to 7mm. It is pretty much identical to the 7 RSAUM with the only differences being a shorter neck and .01″-narrower body. Currently the 7-6.5 PRC is the most requested cartridge that I offer when building new rifles. It seems to fill the gap between the .284 Win and the larger magnums very nicely. It is capable of reaching 3000fps but most shooters are getting their best results around 2920-2950 fps. The biggest advantage of this wildcat is brass. Lapua makes super high-quality, readily-available 6.5 PRC brass. Best powders are H4831sc, H4350, Reloder 16, and Vihtavuori VV 555. The best bullet in my opinion is the 180gr Berger. I am yet to hear about a better-performing bullet in this chamber.
Conclusion In conclusion, magnums are not perfect but their performance advantages should be very seriously considered when building a rifle for long-range F-Class. In part three, I will list the most common wildcat magnums, and present the KMR magnums which will make you (if you haven’t already) buy a magnum action and get a magnum build for sure!
– 2014 F-Class Open National Champion
– 2015 F-Class Open National Championship, Silver Medal
– F-Class Open National Championship Teams, 2015, 2014, 2013, Shooting Team Member
– Over 15 wins in Regional and State Championships in Palma, F-TR, F-Open
– 2013 U.S. National Team Member
– 2023 F-Open Gold Medal Team USA Member, 2023 World Championship in South Africa
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Today’s video showcase covers bore-sighting methods and technology. Bore-sighting the old-fashioned way — by looking down the bore of a rifle at a target — is not difficult. With a conventional bolt-action rifle, visual bore-sighting can be done quickly and easily. Rest your gun securely on bags, remove your bolt and set up a 50-yard target with a large bright orange or black center circle. Look through the back of the action and you should be able to sight down the bore with your own eyes just fine. There’s no need for expensive hardware. In fact it may be easier to bore-sight the “old-fashioned way” rather than try to see a laser in bright sunlight at 50 yards (or even 25).
However, with lever guns and semi-auto rifles, including the popular AR15, M1 Garand, and M1A, the design of the receiver may make it virtually impossible to sight down the bore with the naked eye. That’s where a modern laser bore-sighting device comes in handy. For those situations where a bore-sighting tool is needed, we recommend a laser bore-sighter that fits inside your chamber. An in-chamber laser device, as shown below, is handy and has less safety risk than a tool which fits in the end of the barrel.
How to Bore-Sight Your Rifle in Five Minutes
This video from Australia shows the basics of the bore-sighting process. First set up a target 50 yards (or closer) from your shooting station. Make sure the rifle is well-supported and stable. When the target is ideally centered in the BORE of the barrel, then adjust the reticle on your scope to center the crosshairs on the middle of the target. Then, after checking down-range, take a few test shots. Finally, move the target out to 100 yards and confirm your zero, as explained at the close of today’s article.
Vortex Shows How to Bore-Sight Rifles
This well-made, informative video from Vortex covers the basics of bore-sighting. Bore sighting your rifle is a simple way to establish an initial zero to get you on target faster and save you ammo at the range. Thankfully, it doesn’t take a ton of gear or ammunition to bore-sight a rifle effectively. Video host Jimmy from Vortex provides a handy, step-by-step guide in this 10-minute video.
Bore-Sighting Using a Barrel-Mounted Laser Bore-Sighter
If you wondered why a barrel-mounted laser bore-sighter was off-center? Or if you want to learn how to use one properly, this video shows how to safely and properly zero a scope using a barrel-mounted laser bore sight device. Another option is a small cartridge-sized laser that fits inside the chamber. These sell for under $25.00 and are convenient. There are safety advantages to in-chamber lasers.
Initial Bore-Sighting at Home (Before You Head to the Range)
This useful video shows how to bore-sight a rifle at home. This can save time (and money for ammo) when you do get to the range to confirm your scope’s zero. This home procedure works best if the target is well-illuminated while the rifle is in a shadowed area, creating the best contrast. Also make sure the rifle is on a steady support — such as a portable gun vise or sandbags front and rear.
Bore-Sighting with a Red Dot (Reflex) Sight
As with conventional scopes, if you have a red dot sight or reflex optic, you’ll need to bore-sight your rifle, then zero the optic. [Reflex sights use a reflex lens to project a dot or reticle onto the target, whereas red dot sights use a flat, reflective surface to display a red dot reticle.] In this video, retired Navy SEAL Mark Cochiolo demonstrates how to bore-sight then adjust a red dot. Bore sighting allows you to zero your red dot so that your shots hit near your intended point of impact.
Learn More about Bore-Sighting with Tools
To learn more about bore-sighting, you can view a detailed article on the Warne Scope Mounts website. This features through-the-barrel images and discussion of tools that fit in the chamber or barrel to project a laser beam down-range. Shown below are cartridge-sized projecting lasers that fit in a rifle’s chamber. These are available for a wide variety of cartridge/chamber sizes.
WARNING: If you use an in-barrel laser be sure to remove it BEFORE chambering a round. ANY obstruction in the barrel can cause serious injury or even death if you fire a round.
Bore Sight Grid Tool with Arbors
The Bushnell Bore Sight with Arbors is a bore-sighting tool that many gun stores and gunsmiths use. This device uses arbors but does not transmit a laser.
You attach the tool to the end of the barrel and align it with your scope. A grid is visible inside the bore-sighter. Look at that grid and then and align your scope’s reticle with the grid. This Bushnell unit ships with three expandable arbors in 22-270 caliber, 7mm-35 caliber, and 35-45 caliber.
How to Zero a Hunting Rifle Efficiently
Once you have bore-sighted your rifle to get “on target” successfully, then you want to zero your optic so that the shot falls exactly where you want it at your target distance, typically 100 yards. This Vortex video shows you how to quickly and efficiently sight-in and zero a hunting rifle before heading out into the field. This video explains a simple procedure that lets you get a solid zero in just three shots. Of course you probably want to fire a few more rounds to confirm your zero before you head off to your hunting grounds, but this will let you get on-target with a minimum amount of time and ammo expended. This helpful video now has 3.2 million views on YouTube!
Fouling Shots and Cold Bore Condition
If you recently cleaned your rifle, you may want to fire two or three fouling shots before you start this procedure. But keep in mind that you want to duplicate the typical cold bore conditions that you’ll experience during the hunt. If you set your zero after three fouling shots, then make sure the bore is in a similar condition when you actually go out hunting.
This Video Showcase suggested by Boyd Allen.
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Precision Benchrest and F-Class shooters favor premium brass from Lapua, Norma, Peterson, or RWS. (Lake City also makes quality brass in military calibers.) Premium brass delivers better accuracy, more consistent velocities, and longer life. Shooters understand the importance of good brass, but many of us have no idea how cartridge cases are actually made. Here’s how it’s done.
The process starts with a brass disk stamped from strips of metal. Then, through a series of stages, the brass is extruded or drawn into a cylindrical shape. In the extrusion process the brass is squeezed through a die under tremendous pressure. This is repeated two or three times typically. In the more traditional “draw” process, the case is progressively stretched longer, in 3 to 5 stages, using a series of high-pressure rams forcing the brass into a form die. While extrusion may be more common today, RWS, which makes some of the most uniform brass in the world, still uses the draw process: “It starts with cup drawing after the bands have been punched out. RWS cases are drawn in three ‘stages’ and after each draw they are annealed, pickled, rinsed and subjected to further quality improvement measures. This achieves specific hardening of the brass cases and increases their resistance to extraordinary stresses.” FYI, Lapua also uses a traditional draw process to manufacture most of its cartridge brass (although Lapua employs some proprietary steps that are different from RWS’s methods).
After the cases are extruded or drawn to max length, the cases are trimmed and the neck/shoulder are formed. Then the extractor groove (on rimless cases) is formed or machined, and the primer pocket is created in the base. One way to form the primer pocket is to use a hardened steel plug called a “bunter”. In the photos below you see the stages for forming a 20mm cannon case (courtesy OldAmmo.com), along with bunters used for Lake City rifle brass. This illustrates the draw process (as opposed to extrusion). The process of draw-forming rifle brass is that same as for this 20mm shell, just on a smaller scale.
River Valley Ordnance explains: “When a case is being made, it is drawn to its final draw length, with the diameter being slightly smaller than needed. At this point in its life, the head of the draw is slightly rounded, and there are no provisions for a primer. So the final drawn cases are trimmed to length, then run into the head bunter. A punch, ground to the intended contours for the inside of the case, pushes the draw into a cylindrical die and holds it in place while another punch rams into the case from the other end, mashing the bottom flat. That secondary ram holds the headstamp bunter punch.
This video employs DEFORM-2D software to show the draw process for brass casings.
The headstamp bunter punch has a protrusion on the end to make the primer pocket, and has raised lettering around the face to form the headstamp writing. This is, of course, all a mirror image of the finished case head. Small cases, such as 5.56×45, can be headed with a single strike. Larger cases, like 7.62×51 and 50 BMG, need to be struck once to form a dent for the primer pocket, then a second strike to finish the pocket, flatten the head, and imprint the writing. This second strike works the brass to harden it so it will support the pressure of firing.”
Thanks to Guy Hildebrand, of the Cartridge Collectors’ Exchange, OldAmmo.com, for providing this 20mm Draw Set photo. Bunter photo from River Valley Ordnance.
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Now through Sunday, July 30th, 2023, classic military rifles will fill the firing lines at Camp Perry. The National John C. Garand, Springfield, Vintage and Modern Military Match (GSMM) commenced on the 26th, and will run through this upcoming Sunday the 30th, with the one-day Springfield M1A Match on Sunday only. (See CMP Camp Perry 2023 Calendar.) Some participants will shoot just one rifle type, but there is also a combined GSMM 4-Gun Aggregate. This GSSM Agg encompasses a series of position shooting matches on NRA SR targets at the CMP Nationals. As the matches are completed, day by day, results will be posted on the CMP National Matches Results Page.
This video shows the Garand Match at Camp Perry. The rifles are still the same a decade later…
The annual GSMM event is one of the most popular events at Camp Perry, drawing participants from around the nation. One of America’s top GSSM shooters is Brian Williams, who was profiled in our Daily Bulletin. The 4-gun Aggregate includes Garand, 1903 Springfield/1917 Enfield (or similar bolt rifle), M1 Carbine, and AR-type rifle for “Modern Military”. Remarkably, Brian has won the GSMM 4-Gun at the CMP National Matches in Camp Perry three years in a row — the inaugural 2017 4-Gun Agg, plus 2018 and 2019. Below, Brian offers some thoughts on the classic wood-stocked rifles used in GSMM competition.
The Classic Wood Guns of CMP 4-Gun Competition
Perspectives on M1 Garand, M1903A3, M1917, and M1 Carbine
Brian provides perspectives on the “Wood Gun” game, with suggestions on how to improve your performance with the M1 Garand, M1903 Springfield, M1917 Enfield, M1 Carbine, and other 20th Century military rifles. Brian explains what to look for
Q: What should one look for when acquiring older rifles for CMP 4-Gun Games — M1 Garand, M1903/1903A3, M1917, M1 Carbine? What are realistic budgets for these firearms? What kind of accuracy can one expect? What upgrades are important?
Brian: All of these military surplus rifles are out there, but they are getting harder to get your hands on. And, just like everything else, the prices continue to rise. Not that long ago you could get your hands on a M1 Garand for four or five hundred dollars. In today’s market they are usually about double that price. But understand that these rifles are all unique and all have a story to tell. No two are alike, or have the same story. Just like the guns themselves, there are fewer and fewer dedicated gunsmiths for these vintage rifles. But I promise if you look for a good smith, they are out there and they are some of the most interesting people you will ever meet.
M1 Garand — Of the four (4) centerfire guns I shoot in the CMP games, my favorite has to be the M1 Garand. There were over 6 million of them produced in a very short time period, and every single one has its own unique story, and that is just cool. M1 Garands are capable of good accuracy. I believe that a well-maintained M1 with at least a replacement barrel is capable of shooting between 1 and 1.5 MOA.
M1903A3 Springfield — I find that the sights on a M1903A3 are a little easier to see than the sights of the M1903, but both are very accurate rifles. Like most military rifles in the current climate the prices have risen dramatically, but there are some gems out there that can be had for far less than $1000. The nice thing about the Springfield rifle is that almost all of the accuracy than you would want can come from just replacing a worn out 80-year-old barrel. In terms of accuracy, I think a good M1903A3 can shoot 1 MOA most of the time.
M1917 Enfield — This rifle is the newest of my collection and it shoots very well, with just a new Criterion barrel — again about 1 MOA with iron sights. These rifles are very close in price to the M1903 Springfield. But if you do your homework and keep your eyes open, there are always great deals to be found. I actually prefer shooting the M1917 to my M1903A3, due primarily to the M1917’s cock-on-close bolt which allows smoother cycling.
Public domain photo from Armémuseum (The Swedish Army Museum).
M1 Carbine — By 1945 there had been more M1 Carbines built than Garands. Today the Carbine can be harder to find, and due to the scarcity the price has shot up and most military M1 Carbines are going for more than $1000 at this point. The great thing about the M1 Carbine is that as long as you have a good ammo supply this rifle can shoot. Honest. I have had countless numbers of people that tell me that there is not an M1 carbine that will shoot. I can tell you from experience that they will, but you are going to have to put in some time with one to learn how to get it to shoot where you want it.
The M1 Carbine shoots the .30 Carbine round, with 110gr bullet going about 1990 FPS. In comparison, the .30-06 Springfield round used in the M1 Garand is almost three times more powerful than the .30 Carbine.
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Watch this video to see how a sound suppressor (aka “silencer”, “moderator”, or “can”) is constructed, start to finish. It’s more complicated than you might expect — there are quite a few stages in the process. The video below shows the fabrication of a SilencerCo Octane 45 suppressor:
SilencerCo writes: “What, exactly, goes into making a silencer? It may be more than you’d expect. From cutting metal to chemical baths, to extensive quality control every step of the way, our streamlined process is more than just a few steps. Watch our newest video, HOW IT’S MADE: Octane 45, to catch a glimpse behind SilencerCo’s doors.”
How Loud Are Unsuppressed Rifles?
Firearms Are Loud — 140 dB to 175 dB. ASHA explains: “Almost all firearms create noise that is over the 140-dB level. Exposure to noise greater than 140 dB can permanently damage hearing. A small .22-caliber rifle can produce noise around 140 dB, while big-bore rifles and pistols can produce sound over 175 dB. Firing guns in a place where sounds can reverberate, or bounce off walls and other structures, can make noises louder and increase the risk of hearing loss. Also, adding muzzle brakes or other modifications can make the firearm louder. People who do not wear hearing protection while shooting can suffer a severe hearing loss with as little as one shot[.]” Source: ASHA, Recreational Firearm Noise Exposure.
How Much Does a Good Suppressor Really Reduce Firearm Sound Levels?
That depends on the rifle, the cartridge, and the effectiveness of the suppressor. American Hunter explains: “Suppressors retard the speed of propellant gases from the cartridge that rapidly expand and rush out of the barrel. It’s these gases that produce the loud boom that’s heard for miles. A suppressor’s series of internal baffles slows these gases so they are not all released at once, thereby muffling the sound.” Many good commercial suppressors can achieve 30-35 dB sound suppression. However, Zak Smith of Thunder Beast Arms says: “There are a bunch of manufacturers who publish values that are not reproducible, or use an ad-hoc test instead of a mil-spec test. In many cases we’ve tested the exact same suppressors they’ve advertised with 30-40 dB reductions and found they are actually in the high 20s instead.”
Again, for this reason, we recommend that hunters use ear protection, such as electronic muffs, even when shooting suppressed.
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Along with being a skilled, respected gunsmith, Emil Kovan has been a very successful F-Class competitor. He was U.S. F-Open National Champion in 2014, and finished second at the U.S. F-Open Nationals in 2015. Most recently he was a member of the World Championship-winning F-Open Team USA that competed this spring in South Africa. He definitely knows what it takes to build top-tier F-Open rifles.
In conclusion, magnums are not perfect but their performance advantages should be very seriously considered when building a rifle for long-range F-Class. In part three, I will list the most common wildcat magnums, and present the KMR magnums which will make you (if you haven’t already) buy a magnum action and get a magnum build for sure!
Precision Benchrest and F-Class shooters favor premium brass from 
The headstamp bunter punch has a protrusion on the end to make the primer pocket, and has raised lettering around the face to form the headstamp writing. This is, of course, all a mirror image of the finished case head. Small cases, such as 5.56×45, can be headed with a single strike. Larger cases, like 7.62×51 and 50 BMG, need to be struck once to form a dent for the primer pocket, then a second strike to finish the pocket, flatten the head, and imprint the writing. This second strike works the brass to harden it so it will support the pressure of firing.”
