Here’s an inexpensive product that can make your case prep and loading tasks easier. We use and recommend the cleverly-designed Lyman Bleacher Blocks. These multi-level (stepped) cartridge holders save space on your bench AND make it easier to select a particular case/cartridge from a full block. Each row is a different height for convenience. With Bleacher Blocks it’s also easier to check for powder levels, or place bullets before the seating process.
Lyman’s Bleacher Block cartridge holders have many advantages over conventional, single-level blocks. Use the different levels for sorting brass. Or, migrate the brass from top to bottom as you proceed through case prep stages. If you are assembling loads with different bullets for load testing, you could arrange the loaded rounds on different levels for easy recognition. For example put V-Max loaded rounds on the top tier, and Berger Hybrid loaded rounds on the bottom tier. Or, if you are experimenting with neck tension, you can use different rows for cases processed with different bushings.
Made of durable orange polymer, Lyman Bleacher Blocks are now molded in five sizes — small pistol, large pistol, and three rifle sizes. The smallest rifle block (with 0.388″-diam holes) fits .223 Rem-size case heads. The middle size rifle block (with 0.485″-diam holes) fits .308 Win-size case heads. That works for 6mmBR/Dasher sized cases perfectly. The biggest rifle Bleacher Block has 0.565″-diameter recesses for magnum-size cases. There are also two pistol blocks — .445″ hole size for 9mm/.357 size and .565″ diameter for larger .44/.45 pistol cartridges.
Here’s what Lyman says about its innovative cartridge block design: “Our [stepped] loading blocks allow for easier handling of cases in and out of the loading block. Our stepped design allows you to easily grip a single case without jamming your fingers down into a group of cases like in traditional loading blocks, and allows for a smaller ‘footprint’ on your bench.”
At the request of our readers, we provide select “Deals of the Week”. Every Sunday afternoon or Monday morning we offer our Best Bargain selections. Here are some of the best deals on firearms, hardware, reloading components, optics, and shooting accessories. Be aware that sale prices are subject to change, and once clearance inventory is sold, it’s gone for good. You snooze you lose.
NOTE: All listed products are for sale to persons 18 years of age or older. No products are intended for use by minors.
Graf & Sons — Dillon Get Started Reloading Kit, $799.95
⏺️ » Great savings on Dillon combo reloading kits
If you need a good progessive press system, consider the Dillon Get Started Reloading Kit at Grafs.com. This combo set includes a Basic Loader BL550 Reloading Machine, 3-Die Set, Powder Funnel Die, Machine Conversion Kit, Case Gage, Ammo Box, 1″ Die Wrench, Digital Calipers, D-Terminator Digital Scale, Primer Flip Tray, CED Powder Trickler, Reloading Manual, and Dillon Case Lubricant. This quality progressive reloading system is sold with dies for a particular cartridge. Chose a kit with dies for one of these cartridge types: .380 ACP, .38 SPL, .357 Mag, 9mm, .40 S&W, .44 Magnum, 10mm, .45 ACP, .45 Colt, .223 Rem, .308 Win, and .30-06 Springfield.
Midsouth — All Lee Precision ON SALE
⏺️ » Vast selection of Lee products with big discounts
Lee Reloading offers affordable, well-designed reloading equipment that can produce very good ammo with a minimal investment. We like the Lee presses, priming systems, powder measures, and dies. Right now Midsouth is running a major sale with dozens of Lee products on sale including reloading combo sets, which provide all the tools you need to get started loading your own ammo.
As an Amazon affiliate, this site can earn revenues through sales commissions.
This article is part of Sinclair Int’l Step-By-Step Reloading Series. Most of the products mentioned in this article are sold through Brownells.com.
by Roy Hill, Brownells/Sinclair Copywriter
Making your own precision handloads is a meticulous journey with many steps, many important matters to consider, and many sets of measurements to calculate. For those who pursue the perfect group, the highest score, the really long accurate shot, the rewards more than outweigh the effort. Choosing the right cases, deburring the flash holes, making the primer pockets uniform, trimming the cases, and lubricating them are all familiar – and critical – steps along the journey. And now that your brass preparation is complete, you are at last ready to start running the cases through your press and fill them with primers, powder, and bullets. The very first die the brass encounters is the sizing die. You insert the case, work the press’s lever to return the case to its correct pre-fired dimensions – and the journey continues.
There are three types of sizing dies to think about: neck, full-length, and small base. All three have specific benefits and potential drawbacks, and you should choose the type of die you use by thinking very carefully about what kind of shooting you plan to do with your handloads. No matter which type you select, most sizing dies will also punch out the old spent primer with some sort of decapper assembly that uses a hardened steel rod. Many types of sizing dies use an expander ball inside the die to make sure the neck of the case will accommodate a bullet after being sized. With some size dies, the expanders are easily removable and interchangeable, letting you get exactly the neck tension you want. When sizing cases (neck of full-length), rifle cases always need lube.
Neck-Sizing Dies Neck-sizing dies resize only the neck of the case. The benefit of sizing only the neck is that the brass is “worked” very little, reducing the amount of changes to the brss. [We recommend full-length sizing for all applications after the first couple of firings, and semi-auto brass should be full-length sized every time!] Sinclair recommends that neck-sized-only cartridges should not be used any in other rifle besides the one they were originally fired from [unless they are also FL-sized], or in any action other than a bolt-action.
Full-Length Sizing Dies
Full-length sizing dies resize the full length of the case, not just the neck. Full-length sizing helps create handloads that will function in any rifle, not just the one from which the cases were originally fired. The potential downside of full-length sizing is that it may shorten case life because it works the brass more than neck sizing. But it’s possible to “tune” today’s full-length sizing dies so they barely work the brass at all, as this article by Sinclair Reloading Tech Ron Dague shows.
Illustration Shows How a Full-Length Sizing Die Works
Another way to reap the benefits of full-length sizing is to use Redding’s full-length bushing dies, which size the full length of the case but use a system of interchangeable bushings that enable you give the case neck the bare minimum of resizing needed. To see how finely adjustable bushing dies are, and how they resize the case while fully supported, CLICK HERE for Video. The neck bushing helps you precisely control the neck tension to help increase the consistency and accuracy of your handloads.
Small Base Dies
A Small Base Die is another type of full-length sizing die, but one that is typically used when reloading for semi-automatic rifles, like the AR-15, M14, or AR-style .308 rifles. (It may also work well for bolt guns that need extra sizing on the lower section of the case.) A small base die works exactly like a full-length sizing die, only it compresses the brass just a bit more, usually about .001″ more, and may even push the case shoulder back just a hair. Small base dies give that extra bit of compression to the brass to help make sure the case will properly extract from a semi-automatic firearm. The upside is that you get handloads that should work flawlessly in your semi-automatic. The downside is case life may be shortened as compared to brass used only in one bolt-action rifle, because the brass is worked more.
Shoulder Bump Gauges
A handy tool for setting up your full-length sizing dies as close as possible to your rifle’s chamber is a shoulder bump gauge. The bump gauge lets you resize the case as little as possible, to extend case life and help your handloads fit your rifle almost like a neck-sized only die. You use deprimed cases fired in your rifle and bump gauge inserts to help you set up the die so it resizes the case only about .001″ to .004″, depending on what type of rifle you’re shooting.
Video shows how to use a shoulder bump gauge to set up your full-length dies
Article Find by EdLongrange. We welcome reader submissions
NOTE: If you prefer drying your brass in an oven we recommend a temp setting no higher than 200° F. Better yet, use a dedicated case dryer that cannot possibly over-cook your cases.
Tech Tip by Craig Arnzen of Area419.com
As wet-tumbling brass has become more popular in recent years, guys have tried a LOT of ways to get their brass dry — towels, hair dryers, and even food dehydrators. (See Top Ten Brass Drying Methods). Another common method — albeit with some potential issues — is putting your wet brass in the oven to dry. Provided you monitor TEMP and TIME, this method is fast, effective, and easy (as long don’t use the wife’s favorite cooking pans — that’ll get you in trouble.)
With oven-drying, however, unexpected issues can arise, as illustrated by this worrisome story: “I put my brass in for an hour at 200° F and turned it off. Next thing I know I realize my wife has the oven pre-heating to 350° F. Is my brass ruined?”
If you search the AccurateShooter.com Shooters’ Forum, you’ll find at least three threads with stories like that (i.e. higher-than-expected oven temps when drying brass), and answers on both sides of the line. I know this, because it happened to me — I had some 6XC brass drying and the wife pre-heated the oven. Concerned about my cases, I consulted a genuine annealing expert, Andrew Rixon.
Andrew is the Director of Engineering and Manufacturing at Alpha Munitions, makers of premium-grade rifle brass. I had baked a batch of Alpha 6XC brass, which is exceptionally consistent and well-made. (This 6XC brass is currently out of production, but Alpha produces many other good 6mm cases including 6 PPC, 6mm ARC, 6mm BR, 6 Dasher, 6BRA, 6 GT, and 6mm Creedmoor).
Before Andrew would answer my question though, he gave me a little lesson on what really happens during annealing:
“Annealing is performed by heating the brass to specific temperatures. There are three phases of annealing: recovery, recrystallization, and grain growth. All of which have specific temperatures and or exposure times related to them. It is key for cartridge brass annealing processes to hit the recrystallization phase which allows for strain-free grains to grow. The growth of strain-free grains eliminate dislocations, drastically decreasing hardness and increasing ductility. For recrystallization to occur the material temperature must be within 600-1000 degrees Fahrenheit (F).”
He then got into really answering the question, and was (fortunately) definitive in his answer: “If the temps do not exceed 450 degrees F then there is nothing to worry about as it did not exceed the critical temperature for annealing to occur.” Editor: Caution — do NOT assume that the temperature marked on the oven knob is the actual temperature INSIDE the oven, particularly near the back. Some older ovens can be off as much as 75 degrees F. Be conservative!
Well, there you have it. If you’ve baked your brass, you’re probably OK. If you got it hotter than 450° F then there can start to be some changes to the metal.
Setting optimal bullet seating depth is very important for maximum accuracy. While some cartridges and barrels may deliver good accuracy with a wide range of bullet seating depths, other barrels may be more fussy, and may strongly prefer a specific seating depth, such as .006″ in the lands or .020″ off. To get this kind of precision, you need to know the exact position of the lands in your barrel. In addition, because barrel throats tend to move as the round count goes up, you should check the position of the lands regularly on a competition rifle.
Today’s Saturday Videos demonstrate a number of methods for finding Length to Lands in your rifle barrel. We start with the most common method — using the Hornady O.A.L. Gauge with a threaded modified case. With some practice, and a refined touch, this is actually very accurate. After this, we offer videos that have alternative methods, each with its pros and cons. You should find a method that works for you, that can achieve results within a couple thousandths for multiple measurements.
Finding Cartridge Length to Lands with O.A.L. Gauge
Probably the most common method to find length to lands is using a Hornady O.A.L. Gauge Tool with a comparator on a set of calipers. We regularly use this method with a custom modified case for our 6mmBR rifle. Using the technique described below, we can get results within .0015″ or so three out of four times. We do recommend taking multiple measurements. As explained below, be consistent and do NOT push the gray plastic rod too fast or with too much force.
During this measurement process, the modified case, with a bullet in its neck, is inserted in the chamber. Go slow, take your time. Here are FIVE TIPS that will help you get repeatable and reliable length-to-lands measurements with the Hornady O.A.L. Gauge:
1. Start with a clean chamber and clean barrel throat.
2. Make sure the modified case is fully screwed down and seated on the O.A.L. Gauge. It can sometimes unscrew a bit during repeated measurements.
3. Insert the modified case slowly and gently, but ensure the shoulder of the modified case is fully seated on the end of the chamber.
4. Push the gray plastic rod GENTLY. It is common for the bullet to be tilted a bit. You want to allow the bullet to self-center in the throat BEFORE you apply much pressure. Then tap a couple times and push until you feel resistance. Do NOT push too hard — that will jam the bullet in the lands.
5. Repeat the measurement at least 3 more times. If you follow our instructions, you should, typically, get a repeatable measurement, within 0.0015″ or so, 3 out of 4 times.
NOTE: We’ve seen some folks struggle to get repeatable measurements with this tool. In most cases, they were going too fast and pushing too hard on the gray rod, creating a hard jam.
Brownells — Using Hornady O.A.L. Gauge with Modified Case
This Brownells video shows how to use the modified (threaded) case for the cartridge your rifle shoots. Attach it to the O.A.L. Gauge, then insert a bullet into the case neck and slide the tool into the chamber. It takes a little practice to get consistent results. After getting the measurement in the barrel, you ascertain the length to lands using a Hornady Bullet Comparator attached to your calipers.
Making Your Own Modified Case — Threading the Case End
This helpful video from our friend Gavin Gear of UltimateReloader.com shows how to create a custom modified case to use with a Hornady O.A.L. Gauge. You need to drill out the primer pocket area, then tap and thread the bottom of the case.
Ultimate Reloader Shows 3 Ways to Find the Lands
This video shows three different ways to measure distance to lands. First Gavin Gear shows how to use a Hornady O.A.L. Gauge with Modified Case. The second methods shows how to use a bit of Loctite INSIDE the neck to secure a bullet. Be sure there is NO Loctite on the outside of the neck — you don’t want that in your chamber! You place the case with bullet into the chamber, then close bolt to seat the bullet. After waiting 5-10 minutes for the Loctite to set, you remove the cartridge gently. The third method (time-mark 16:50) is a Jam method using a bolt with the firing pin assembly and ejector removed (so there is no extra pressure on the case). Gavin notes: “The bullet ogive can be colored with a permanent marker if you want to indicate lands contact.”
About this third Jam method, ace F-Class shooter Erik Cortina posted: “My method is actually the last one that Travis showed. The one where you let the lands push bullet in. But it is neck tension dependent. I also put die wax in bullet ogive to prevent it from sticking in the lands. The method of seating bullet deeper and deeper until bolt closes is the Alex Wheeler method. As you said, there are a tons of ways to measure this.”
Finding Length to Lands the Speedy Way
Here is another method to find length to lands that can work with an unmounted barrel. This method is explained by Thomas “Speedy” Gonzales, a top gunsmith and ace benchrest shooter. Speedy drops a case with bullet seated into the chamber and then adjusts the seating depth with an inline seating die until there is no sticking or resistance felt. He can then adjust the true length to lands easily with his micrometer seating die. If you don’t have a modified case and do not want to partially disassemble your bolt to take measurement, you might want to use Speedy’s method.
Finding Length to Lands Using Bolt Movement — Primal Rights
This video shows how to remove the firing pin assembly in your bolt. This way the bolt can be used to advance a case with bullet smoothly into the chamber. Then the bullet seated in the case neck will move back to “first touch” contact position. Then extract the case slowly and measure.
The video host states: “Overall length gauges and modified cases tend to be close, but never as precise as we would like them to be. Here we describe how to measure the length to your lands in your rifle as precisely as possible, using a caliper and bullet comparator.” NOTE: The host says a store-bought Modified Case may not deliver that exact same length from case base to lands as your own fired case. That is true, but as long as the commercial Modified Case gives you repeatable results, you have a functional reference point which you can then use to test seating depths relative to that measurement.
Finding Length to Lands Using Bullet in Case With Split-Cut Neck
Here is a common method that requires no special tools. Simply take a fired (no primer), neck-sized case and split the necks down vertically with a Dremel. Done right, this will hold the bullet in place when you chamber the unloaded round. As the bullet touches the rifling it will move back. As the cartridge chambers, the bullet slides back into the case to give you length to lands. This is not super-accurate but it is probably good enough for finding the length to lands for a hunting rifle. The video maker explains: “No need to purchase gauges for this if you are willing to sacrifice one case. With a little time and patience you can get good results with this method.” Further Explanation.
How to Adjust Tension — Length and Number of Neck Cuts
Forum member Andris Silins, who uses this method, explains: “I made the neck cuts using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. You can adjust tension two ways. First, you can make the cuts longer or shorter. Longer cuts = less tension. If you used only three cuts instead of four you would get more tension. The trick is to be gentle when you open and close the bolt. If you ram the bolt closed you may wedge the bullet into the lands. When you open the bolt it helps to keep a finger or two near by to guide the case out straight because the ejector wants to push it sideways.” READ MORE.
Finding the Lands with HK Rifleworks
This is another video that demonstrates how to disassemble the bolt so that the firing pin assembly and spring does not apply pressure on the empty case which would affect the bullet as it touches the lands. The video maker shows how to use a Brownells bolt disassembly tool to quickly take the bolt apart (3:20 time-mark). Once you have a repeatable measurement, you know exactly where is “first touch”. Then you can adjust your seating depth to be into the lands, or jumping the bullets. Many benchrest shooters like to load “into the lands”. PRS/NRL shooters and hunters will generally prefer to jump their bullets .0020″ or more.
For some applications, we prefer a non-bushing FL die over a bushing die. Shown here are three Forster full-length sizing dies, with necks honed to three different dimensions: 0.265″, 0.266″, and 0.267″.
The Honed Full-Length Sizing Die Option
There are many good options in full-length (FL) sizing dies. Most precision hand-loaders prefer FL dies with neck bushings. These let you adjust the “grip” on your bullet by using larger or smaller bushings. FL bushing dies are available from Whidden Gunworks, Forster, Redding and other makers.
Conventional, non-bushing full-length sizing dies can create ultra-accurate ammo with very low run-out. But many conventional non-bushing FL dies have an undersized neck diameter so you end up with excess neck tension, and you work the brass excessively.
There is another effective option, one that promises extremely low run-out. The honed FL die is a full-length sizing die that has the necked honed to provide a precise fit to the case-neck. When done right, honed FL dies produce extremely straight ammo — as there are no issues with bushing alignment (or bushings that are not perfectly concentric). This Editor owns honed dies from Forster, Redding, and Whidden Gunworks. They all perform extremely well, delivering match ammunition with extremely low run-out measured with a 21st Century Concentricity Gauge.
In one of the most popular articles we’ve ever published, Bugholes from Bipod, California shooter “Froggy” explained why he prefers honed dies for his tactical ammo.
Q: Do you FL size every time? Do you use custom dies?
Absolutely, I full length resize all of my brass every time I reload. And guess what? I’ve never had a feeding problem.
I do use a modified sizing die, without bushings. My FL resizing die has been custom-honed in the neck area to give .0015″ press fit on the bullet. I also put a slightly larger radius at the neck shoulder junction. I feel that this helps to seal the chamber. With this die, I get consistent neck tension every time–without bushings. Bushings are useful when you’re fishing around for a good load. But once you find the right amount of sizing for ideal neck tension, you can do this better with a customized FL die.
6.5 Guys Review Forster Honed Full-length Dies
The 6.5 Guys have reviewed honed FL sizing dies from Forster, explaining the pros and cons of this type of reloading die. They explained that, if you load a wide variety of bullets from different manufacturers, you many want to stick with a Bushing FL die. However, if you have settled on a particular bullet and found the “ideal” neck tension, then a honed die may make sense.
In this Gear Update, the 6.5 Guys discuss a service offered by Forster Products to custom hone the neck diameter of its full-length sizing dies to the customer’s specifications (to the thousandth). Whidden Gunworks has also crafted custom-honed FL dies for many customers, including this Editor.
Here is a simple technique that can potentially help you load straighter ammo, with less run-out (as measured on the bullet). This procedure costs nothing and adds only a few seconds to the time needed to load a cartridge. Next time you’re loading ammo with a threaded (screw-in) seating die, try seating the bullet in two stages. Run the cartridge up in the seating die just enough to seat the bullet half way. Then lower the cartridge and rotate it 180° in the shell-holder. Now raise the cartridge up into the die again and finish seating the bullet.
Steve, aka “Short Range”, one of our Forum members, recently inquired about run-out apparently caused by his bullet-seating process. Steve’s 30BR cases were coming out of his neck-sizer with good concentricity, but the run-out nearly doubled after he seated the bullets. At the suggestion of other Forum members, Steve tried the process of rotating his cartridge while seating his bullet. Steve then measured run-out on his loaded rounds. To his surprise there was a noticeable reduction in run-out on the cases which had been rotated during seating. Steve explains: “For the rounds that I loaded yesterday, I seated the bullet half-way, and turned the round 180 degrees, and finished seating the bullet. That reduced the bullet runout by almost half on most rounds compared to the measurements from the first test.”
Steve recorded run-out measurements on his 30 BR brass using both the conventional (one-pass) seating procedure, as well as the two-stage (with 180° rotation) method. Steve’s measurements are collected in the two charts above. As you can see, the run-out was less for the rounds which were rotated during seating. Note, the change is pretty small (less than .001″ on average), but every little bit helps in the accuracy game. If you use a threaded (screw-in) seating die, you might try this two-stage bullet-seating method. Rotating your case in the middle of the seating process won’t cost you a penny, and it just might produce straighter ammo (nothing is guaranteed). If you do NOT see any improvement on the target, you can always go back to seating your bullets in one pass. READ Forum Thread..
Peterson Cartridge Company (“Peterson”) has released a lengthy, authoritative guide to the 22 Creedmoor cartridge, a popular wildcat based on the 6.5 Creedmoor or 6mm Creedmoor necked down to .224 caliber. We think the .22 Creedmoor would be a great long-range varmint cartridge, similar to the .22-250 Rem, but with a more modern, efficient cartridge design. In addition, some PRS/NRL competitors may turn to the .22 Creedmoor because it has less recoil and is flatter-shooting than the 6mm Creedmoor. In addition, .224-caliber match bullets are typically less expensive than heavier 6mm and 6.5mm projectiles. Less recoil, and less cost — what’s not to like?*
Along with load data, this article has specific sections dedicated to: Primers, Rifling Twist Rates, and Reloading Supplies. If you are considering building a .22 Creedmoor, we recommend you download the full Peterson .22 Creedmoor article, which is available in PDF format.
Peterson states, “Since its inception in 2007… the 6.5 Creedmoor has seen some pretty meteoric growth in popularity. That growth continues as of this writing, as the cartridge has now gone mainstream with hunters and shooters alike. As the popularity of the 6.5 Creedmoor has increased, so has the number of wildcat cartridges based off of it. Some of those popular wildcat cartridges are the 6mm Creedmoor, the .25 Creedmoor, and now the .22 Creedmoor. This data sheet will cover the .22 Creedmoor.
To help our customers, and anyone else who shoots .22 Creedmoor, we decided to create this Data Sheet and distribute it. [In this LOAD DATA Document] you will find four (4) common bullets, and four (4) common rifle powders used when handloading the .22 Creedmoor cartridge. We then took the different bullet and powder combinations and loaded them up to the SAAMI Maximum Average Pressure (MAP) for the 6.5 Creedmoor and 6mm Creedmoor cartridges, which is 62,000 PSI. [O]ur goal was to provide a wide spectrum of bullet weights and the powders used with them.
All of the following data was gathered by our ballistician in our indoor ballistics lab located in our factory in Pennsylvania. Although we were able to gather pressure and velocity data in our lab, we have NOT tested these loads for accuracy. Again, these loads are just designed to give shooters information regarding what velocity, a given bullet and powder charge combination, will produce the SAAMI Maximum Average Pressure (MAP) of 62,000 psi.”
Sample 22 Creedmoor LOAD DATA
IMPORTANT — Pressures can vary significantly with different Cartridge Overall Lengths (COAL). In addition, ANY change to ANY load components — primers, bullets, brass, powder — can affect pressure. Always load conservatively. In addition, because of variances in bore dimensions, some barrels may show higher pressures than others. Again, always start with conservative loads, well below MAX pressures.
*Actually there IS a potential downside — reduced barrel life. We expect that a .22 Creedmoor running hot varmint loads would experience shorter useful barrel life compared to a 6.5 Creedmoor. This is based on what we’ve observed with .22-250 and .22-250 Ackley barrels compared to our 6.5 CM barrels.
Shiny brass — it may not shoot more accurately, but it does make you feel better about your hand-loaded ammo. While it’s not necessary to get brass “bright and shiny” after every firing, it is a good idea to clean powder residue, grime, and grit off your brass before you run cases into sizing dies. There are many ways to clean cartridge cases. A quick wipe with solvent on a patch may suffice for recently-shot cases. Older brass with baked-on carbon may require lengthy tumbling. Ultrasonic cleaning is another popular option that gets your brass clean inside and out.
Sinclair International has a series of helpful videos on brass cleaning. These short “how-to” videos, hosted by Bill Gravatt, former head honcho at Sinclair Int’l and Creedmoor Sports, cover the various processes you can use — tumbling, ultrasonic cleaning, chemical cleaning, and cleaning by hand.
Video ONE — Cleaning Brass in Vibratory or Rotary Tumbler
TIP: Brass that has recently been shot will clean more easily than brass that has been sitting many days or weeks. If your tumbling media is fresh the job should be done in an hour or less. It’s your choice whether to tumble with primers removed or with primers still in the cases. If you choose to tumble with primers out, we suggest you deprime with a depriming die, rather that put dirty brass into your sizing die. Some people like to add a teaspoon of liquid polish to the media. This does work, cutting tumble time, and making your brass more shiny. However, if you add liquid polish, do that BEFORE you add the brass and let the tumbler run for a 15 minutes to get the polish completely mixed into the media. Otherwise you can else up with gooey gunk inside your cases — a very bad thing.
Video TWO — Ultrasonic Case Cleaning
TIP: There are many different types of solutions you can use. Soapy water suffices for some folks, particularly if you add a little Lemi-Shine. The Hornady and Lyman solutions work well, and can be used multiple times, provided you strain the solution to remove dirt and grit after cleaning sessions. Many ultrasonic cleaning machines have timers. Experiment with dwell time to see how long you need to immerse your brass. A very small amount of Ballistol in the solution will help lubricate your necks on the inside. This can make bullet seating go more smoothly, with more consistent neck tension.
Video THREE — Chemical Cleaners (Soaking without Ultrasound)
TIP: After using chemical cleaners, such as the Iosso solution, you need to water-rinse your brass thoroughly. A kitchen strainer helps with this (see video at 0:20). Also, don’t forget your brass in the chemical solution — follow the manufacturers recommendations and don’t exceed the recommended dwell time. Chemical cleaners work surprisingly well to remove grease and grime, and the solution can be re-used multiple times. However, if you want your cases to look bright and shiny (like new brass), you will probably have to tumble. [Editor: A very effective new chemical cleaner is the Brass Monkey product from the makers of Wipe-Out and Carb-Out. Add a teaspoon to a gallon of water then soak your brass for 20-30 minutes. It really works — the cases clean up dramatically].
Video FOUR — Manual Cleaning (By Hand)
TIP: Keep some oversize patches in your range kit. At the end of your shooting sessions, wipe off your fired brass with a patch dampened with a mild, non-corrosive solvent (once again Ballistol works well). Before the carbon sets up on your brass it is very easy to remove. For tougher jobs, you can use 0000 Steel Wool (as Bill recommends in the video). You may find that timely hand-cleaning lets you avoid tumbling altogether — or you may choose to tumble (or ultra-sound) your brass only after a half-dozen or so firings.
At the request of our readers, we provide select “Deals of the Week”. Every Sunday afternoon or Monday morning we offer our Best Bargain selections. Here are some of the best deals on firearms, hardware, reloading components, optics, and shooting accessories. Be aware that sale prices are subject to change, and once clearance inventory is sold, it’s gone for good. You snooze you lose.
NOTE: All listed products are for sale to persons 18 years of age or older. No products are intended for use by minors.
Graf & Sons — Major Berger Bullet Sale
⏺️ » Great savings on ultra-high quality Berger Bullets
When it comes to competition, Berger Bullets are among the very best with countless wins in PRS, High Power, F-Class, and other disciplines. Berger also makes great varmint and hunting bullets. Now you can stock up on these winning bullets for the matches you’re planning this year. Save now with this major Graf’s sale instead of paying more later.
Amazon — RCBS Rebel Master Reloading Kit, $470.95
⏺️ » Complete kit with press, powder measure, scale, tools and more
For folks getting started with hand-loading, a great basic package is the RCBS Rebel Master Reloading Kit which is on sale for only $470.95. This RCBS Package features pretty much all you need to load rifle and pistol ammo: Rebel single-stage Press, Uniflow-III Powder Measure, 1500gr digital scale, hand priming tool, powder funnel, powder trickler, hex key set, accessory handle with case neck brushes, primer pocket brushes, deburring tool, loading block, and case lube. You even get a Speer Reloading Manual.
As an Amazon affiliate, this site can earn revenues through sales commissions.
Neck-sizing dies resize only the neck of the case. The benefit of sizing only the neck is that the brass is “worked” very little, reducing the amount of changes to the brss. [We recommend full-length sizing for all applications after the first couple of firings, and semi-auto brass should be full-length sized every time!] Sinclair recommends that neck-sized-only cartridges should not be used any in other rifle besides the one they were originally fired from [unless they are also FL-sized], or in any action other than a bolt-action.
If you search the AccurateShooter.com 
Shiny brass — it may not shoot more accurately, but it does make you feel better about your hand-loaded ammo. While it’s not necessary to get brass “bright and shiny” after every firing, it is a good idea to clean powder residue, grime, and grit off your brass before you run cases into sizing dies. There are many ways to clean cartridge cases. A quick wipe with solvent on a patch may suffice for recently-shot cases. Older brass with baked-on carbon may require lengthy tumbling. Ultrasonic cleaning is another popular option that gets your brass clean inside and out.
