Image Courtesy NSSF. This story is based on an NSSF Article.
‘Tis the season of gift-giving (Christmas Day is 8 days hence). Perhaps you’re considering giving a a first rifle to your grandson or perhaps a carry pistol to a spouse. When making a gun gift to a friend or family member, however, there are some very important legal considerations. Also the rules on firearms gift transfers vary from state to state. Bottom line here — you need to know the law BEFORE you deliver that shiny new firearm to a family member, close friend, or relative.
The first thing to remember if you’re thinking about giving someone a gun is that … it’s a gun! You already know that ownership of a firearm brings with it some serious legal and ethical obligations that other consumer products don’t. So let’s look at some questions you may have about giving a firearm as a gift.
Image Courtesy NSSF
The first question you have to ask is whether the intended recipient can legally own the firearm where he or she lives. With more than 20,000 different gun laws on the books, even the kinds of firearms that law-abiding citizens can own vary from place to place. For example, juveniles (under age 18) generally speaking are precluded by law from possessing a handgun. Check out the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) website for an overview of local laws and, whatever you do, don’t forget that you can never under any circumstances transfer a firearm to someone you know — or have reasonable cause to believe — legally can’t own one. That’s a federal felony, so be careful.
There’s no federal law that prohibits a gift of a firearm to a relative or friend who lives in your home state. Many states — including California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, New York, Oregon, Rhode Island, Washington State and the District of Columbia — require you to transfer a firearm through a local FFL-holder so an instant background check will be performed to make sure the recipient is not legally prohibited from owning the gun. Maryland and Pennsylvania require a background check for private party transfer of a handgun. And yes, Oregon has new restrictions due to the passage of Ballot Measure 114 (though a State Judges has issued an injunction blocking some provision BM 114). There are exceptions, so it’s important to check the law of your state or ask your local firearms retailer.
Consider a Gift Card Instead of Direct Gift
The ATF recommends that if you want to give someone a new firearm, rather than going to a gun store and buying the gun on your own, consider instead purchasing a gift certificate/card from your favorite gun retailer. Then give that gift card as the present. That way the recipient can choose the exact gun he or she wants, and there’s no question about who is “the actual buyer of the firearm”, which is a question any purchaser must certify on the Federal Form 4473 at the time of purchase. The Gift Card option avoids any “straw purchaser” issues.
Intra-Family Transfers and Antique Arms
What if you want to give “Old Betsy,” your favorite old deer rifle, to your son or daughter as a college graduation gift? Again, in some states, there’s no law that says you can’t, but many states require even intra-family transfers to go through a licensed dealer. Remember, you can never transfer a firearm directly to another person who is a resident of a different state. In that case, you must transfer the firearm through a licensed dealer in the state where the person receiving the gift resides.
Using a gift certificate from a firearms retailer near where the recipient lives might be a good solution. Be safe and check with an in-state FFL dealer before you give any firearm to a friend or family member.
Every serious hand-loader benefits from a precise, repeatable, and efficient powder dispensing system. There are many electronic powder dispensers on the market, starting at about $195 for a Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper and $240 for a Lyman Gen6. At the high end, the ultimate powder weighing/dispensing system would be an Auto-Trickler V4 mated to an top-tier electronic Force Restoration scale. Such a system can run $1200 or more, depending on scale cost.
In today’s Saturday video showcase we feature eight videos about electronic powder dispensers, as well as Auto-Trickler systems (both V3 and V4). If you are in the market for a new powder scale/dispenser system, we recommend you watch these videos. You may be surprised by some of the findings, and you will certainly learn more about these machines — their pros and cons. That knowledge can help you decide what electronic powder dispenser best deserves your hard-earned dollars.
Five Powder Dispenser Comparison Test (All Units Purchased)
If you are in the market for a sub-$500 electronic powder dispenser, definitely watch this review. This Backfire comparison test is notable because the tester spent his own money to purchase all five powder dispensers being reviewed. That means Backfire could tell the full truth, both good and bad, about the machines. In fact, Backfire bought TWO ChargeMaster Lites because one failed (See 14:12 time-mark). The reviewer liked the RCBS ChargeMaster Supreme, but his top choice overall was the Hornady Auto Charge Pro. He favored the overall design, and really liked the way the dispensing speeds could be easily set faster or slower. Here are highlights from the video review:
00:08 Speed Test
03:09 Accuracy Test
07:57 Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper
09:08 Lyman Gen 6
10:44 RCBS Chargemaster Supreme
12:03 Hornady Auto Charge Pro
14:12 RCBS Chargemaster Lite
14:41 Conclusions
AutoTrickler V3 vs. Hornady Auto Charge Pro
In the Backfire comparison video above, the Hornady Auto Charge Pro powder dispenser earned top marks among sub-$500 units. Here the Auto Charge takes on some tougher competition — an ultra-precise Force Restoration scale fitted with an Auto-Trickler V3, a system that cost upwards of $1150.00 U.S. Dollars. The Australian duo running the comparison found the Auto-Trickler system was more accurate and consistent. Notably, with a dispense speed of just 14 seconds. the Auto-Trickler V3 system was significantly faster than the Hornady machine. The Auto-Tricker V3 has been superseded by the new Auto-Trickler V4 which retails for $490.00 USD. Add $630 or more for a good Force Restoration scale such as the A&D FX-120i.
RCBS New ChargeMaster Supreme and Other ChargeMasters
In this well-made video, Gavin Gear of UltimateReloader.com does a detailed review of the new-generation RCBS ChargeMaster Supreme. He puts it through his paces, verifying its accuracy and repeatability. He shows how the unit can be programmed. At the 17:20 time-mark, Gavin employs an A&D FX-120i Force Restoration scale to check the ChargeMaster Supreme’s charge-weighing precision. The results were good.
Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper vs. RCBS ChargeMaster Link
The Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper, now just $194.49 on Amazon, was very innovative when first released, offering remote Bluetooth access and a wide range of programmable features. The downloadable App stores your load data and has preloaded bullet and powder databases. This video compares the Intellidropper with another Bluetooth-enabled modern powder dispenser, the RCBS Chargemaster Link. A free RCBS App allows you to control settings remotely.
Hornady Auto Charge Pro Review by Ultimate Reloader
As the $359 Hornady Auto Charge Pro dispenser was top-rated in the Backfire comparison at the start of this article, we thought we’d include a detailed review from Gavin Gear of UltimateReloader.com. If you are thinking of buying a Hornady Auto Charge Pro, definitely watch this video, as it is the most thorough Auto Charge Pro review on the web and Gavin is by far the most articulate tester. SEE FULL TEST.
AutoTrickler V4 and Force Restoration Scale
The AutoTrickler V4, paired with a quality Force Restoration scale, is the “Rolls Royce” of electronic powder dispensing systems, offering unrivaled charge-weight accuracy, great repeatability, and ultra-fast dispensing speeds. If you have the budget — $490 for the V4 plus $625+ for scale — the AutoTrickler V4 is a superb system that lets you load extremely accurate, consistent ammo. This detailed F-Class John video shows how to set up the system properly and control the dispensing and trickling functions.
RCBS MatchMaster vs. AutoTrickler V3 with A&D FX-120i Scale
This video is interesting because it compares the most advanced and expensive mass-market electronic dispenser, the $899 RCBS MatchMaster, with an AutoTrickler V3 mated to an ultra-precise Force Restoration scale. The AutoTrickler V3 + scale system offers wicked fast dispensing while delivering near-single-kernel precision and great repeatability. The MatchMaster has some interesting features, including dual dispensing tubes and a special slower, “Match Mode” dispensing function which provides enhanced precision.
BONUS Video: RCBS ChargeMaster Dispenser vs. Four Scales
This video answers the question “How does a common powder dispenser’s weighing accuracy compare to stand-alone scales?” Here the tester compares the weighing precision of an early-model RCBS ChargeMaster with four dedicated scales: A&D FX-120i (Force Restoration), Hornady G2-1500, Hornady GS-1500 (Gen 1), and a WAOAW milligram scale. These scales range significantly in price, with the FX-120i Force Restoration the most expensive by far. The features/prices of the four scales are listed at 4:41 time-mark. Accuracy/repeatability comparison testing with test weights starts at 10:12 time-mark.
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Among its notable products for 2025, Hornady offers a new small fireproof safe plus an advanced horizontal AR rifle safe with RFID technology. These can both be effective components of your home and/or office security systems. See these and other vaults, lock boxes, and RAPiD Safes at Hornady.com/security.
Hornady Security AR Gun Locker with RFID Technology
Hornady’s AR Gun Lockers offer good security with rapid access. RFID technology allows instant unlocking, activated through a wristband, key fob, or sticker. You can program up to five RFID tags. You can also open the unit using a keypad with security code. That allows quick access even without the RFID devices. The basic AR Gun Locker holds two rifles, while the XL version holds three ARs. The AR Gun Locker can be mounted vertically or horizontally, placed under a bed, in the back of an SUV, or mounted in a closet.
This is a tough unit made with thick 16-gauge steel and four locking lugs. Hornady says its “AR Gun Locker system surpasses ASTM International thresholds” and “excels in child and pry resistance, lock potency, and durability against various attacks. The AR Gun Locker package includes the RAPiD® Safe, Wall Power Supply, RFID Wristband, two RFID Stickers, RFID Key Fob, two Circular Barrel Keys, and a Security Cable.
AR Gun Locker Specifications:
Weight: 50 pounds
Interior Dimensions: 40.5″ x 13.5″ x 5.5″
Exterior Dimensions: 42″ x 15.25″ x 6.75″
AR Gun Locker XL Specifications:
Weight: 62 pounds
Interior Dimensions: 40.5″ x 13.5″ x 8.75″
Exterior Dimensions: 42″ x 15.25″ x 10″
New Compact Fireprood KeyPad Safe
Along with a full-size gun safe for firearms, most people can use a smaller safe to hold passports, currency, important papers, and a defensive handgun. A smaller safe can be easily secured and kept in a location sheltered from view. The Hornady Security line of KeyPad safes provides quick and secure firearm access.
Hornady’s latest 16.5″x15″x12″ Fireproof KeyPad safe boasts 16-gauge steel for the body and 8-gauge for the door. Hornady claims that “The fireproof capabilities are best in class, capable of withstanding fires reaching temperatures of 1400° F for 30 minutes”. Four hefty 1-inch diameter locking lugs secure the safe. You can access contents quickly with a programmable touch keypad. And if for any reason the keypad fails, a discrete keyhole provides additional key access. Notably, Hornady ships this safe with a set of concrete anchors that can be used to bolt down the safe.
Fireproof Keypad Safe Features:
Easy access touchpad entry with discrete key backup
Interior door light illuminates safe
Removable interior shelf
LED keypad warning when the safe battery is low
Easily mounted with concrete anchor bolts
Fireproof Keypad Safe Specifications:
Body Construction: 16-gauge steel (8-gauge door)
Exterior Dimensions: 12″x 15″x 16.5″
Interior Dimensions: 10.2″x 13.2″x 15″
Weight: 49 lbs.
Fireproof Rating: 30 mins at up to 1400°F
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Conventional brass jags work great — except for one thing. They can react to solvents, leaving a blue “false positive” on patches. In recent years, jag-makers have experimented with many different materials in an effort to cure the solvent-reaction problem. Today we have polymer jags, nickel-plated jags, and stainless steel jags. And the latest innovation is the aluminum jag from Dewey.
J. Dewey Mfg. offers a series of “Copper Eliminator” jags and brush adapters made from aircraft-grade aluminum with the same hardness as brass. Dewey claims that its aluminum jags will not become embedded with grit or particles that could harm your bore. At the same time, Dewey’s aluminum jags will not react to ammoniated bore solvents that can turn patches blue green when used with brass jags. Dewey aluminum jags are offered with either male OR female 8/32 threads. The $5.25 aluminum jags and $3.70 brush adapters are offered in a wide variety of calibers. You can order these products from Dewey Mfg. or Brownells.
Story Tip from Boyd Allen. We welcome submissions from our readers.
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Jim Borden, the very knowledgeable owner of Borden Accuracy, provided an interesting historical insight about barrel fitting and the term “blueprinting”. Jim has posted on his Borden Accuracy Facebook page an explanation of the term “blueprinting” as it originally was used with respect to barrel/shoulder/lug fitting.
Barrel/Shoulder Fit and Blue-Printing
Jim told us: “Something often overlooked on barrel installation is the shoulder fit. Many are so overly obsessed with doing a crank-on fit of threads that the shoulder contact is overlooked. Full, solid barrel shoulder to recoil lug or action face is critical to optimum accuracy and precision.
Many years ago part of the ‘blueprinting’ of an action was the use of Prussian blue to ‘blueprint’ lug fit, thread fit, and barrel shoulder fit. It was a colloquial expression that had nothing to do referring to a blueprint or drawing of the action.” Bet you didn’t know that!
About the photo below, Jim noted: “the fuzzy look on the threads is a liberal coating of Never-Seez thread lubricant.”
Look carefully to see the Prussian Blue applied to the barrel shoulder, plus Never Seez on threads.
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Chart created with Ammoguide’s Visual Comparison Tool. Visit Ammoguide.com to learn more.
One of our forum members was looking for a very accurate, mid-sized 6.5mm cartridge for target working and coyote hunting. There are many great options including the 6.5 Grendel, 6.5×47 Lapua, 6.5 Creedmoor, and Remington .260 (a 6.5-08). If you are considering the 6.5×47 you should read our 6.5×47 Cartridge Guide authored by the 6.5 Guys. This and other 6.5mm cartridges are covered in this introduction to 6.5 mm cartridges prepared by Eben Brown, President of Eabco.com.
Quick Guide to 6.5mm Cartridges
by Eben Brown, EABCO.com, (E. Arthur Brown Co. Inc.)
The current popularity of 6.5mm cartridges in the USA has been a long time in coming. I won’t go into my opinions on why it took so long to catch on. The important thing is that it finally HAS caught on and we’re now so fortunate to have a wide selection of 6.5mm cartridges to choose from!
6.5mm Grendel – Developed by Alexander Arms for the AR15 and military M4 family of rifles. The Grendel fits the dimensional and functional requirements of these rifles while delivering better lethality and downrange performance. [Editor: The little 6.5 Grendel delivers a lot of performance from a small package. This is one of the most accurate cartridge options for the AR15 platform.]
6.5mm BRM – Developed by E. Arthur Brown Company to give “Big Game Performance to Small Framed Rifles” — namely our Model 97D Rifle, TC Contender, and TC Encore. Velocities of 2400-2500 fps with 140gr bullets puts it just under the original 6.5×55 Swede performance.
6.5mm x 47 Lapua – Developed by Lapua specifically for international 300m shooting competitions (with some interest in long-range benchrest as well). Case capacity, body taper, shoulder angle, and small rifle primer are all features requested by top international shooters. You can expect velocities of 2500-2600+ with 140 gr bullets.
6.5mm Creedmoor – Developed by Hornady and Creedmoor Sports, the 6.5mm Creedmoor is designed for efficiency and function. Its shape reaches high velocities while maintaining standard .308 Winchester pressures and its overall length fits well with .308 Win length magazines. You can expect velocities of 2600-2700+ fps with 140gr bullets. [Editor: Yep, we know some PRS guys are loading hotter than that in bolt guns. We recommend you try the 120-130 grain bullets also with this cartridge. That may put you in a better accuracy node.]
This video reviews 6.5 Creedmoor Cartridge Brass options:
.260 Remington – Developed by Remington to compete with the 6.5mmx55 Swedish Mauser that was (finally) gaining popularity in 1996. By necking down the 7mm-08 Remington to 6.5mm (.264 cal), the .260 Remington was created. It fit the same short-action [receivers] that fit .308 Win, .243 Win, 7mm-08 Rem, etc. You can expect velocities of 2600-2700 fps with 140gr bullets in the 260 .Remington.
[Editor’s Note: In the .260 Rem, try the Lapua 120gr Scenar-Ls and/or Berger 130gr VLDs for great accuracy and impressive speeds over 2950 fps.]
6.5mm x 55 Swedish Mauser – This was the cartridge that started the 6.5mm craze in the USA. It is famous for having mild recoil, deadly lethality on even the biggest game animals, and superb accuracy potential. Original ballistics were in the 2500 fps range with 140gr bullets. Nowadays handloaders get 2600-2700+ fps.
[Editor’s Note: Tor from Scandinavia offers this bit of 6.5x55mm history: “Contrary to common belief, the 6.5×55 was not developed by Mauser, but was constructed by a joint Norwegian and Swedish military commission in 1891 and introduced as the standard military cartridge in both countries in 1894. Sweden chose to use the cartridge in a Mauser-based rifle, while Norway used the cartridge in the Krag rifles. This led to two different cartridges the 6.5×55 Krag and 6.5×55 Mauser — the only real difference being safe operating pressure.”]
6.5-284 Norma — This comes from necking the .284 Winchester down to .264 caliber. Norma standardized it for commercial ammo sales. The 6.5mm-284 was very popular for F-Class competition and High Power at 1,000 yards. However, many F-Class competitors have switched to the straight .284 Win for improved barrel life. 6.5-284 velocities run 3000-3100+ fps with 140gr bullets.
.264 Winchester Magnum – Developed by Winchester back in 1959, the .264 Win Mag never really caught on and may have delayed the ultimate acceptance of 6.5mm cartridges by US shooters (in my opinion). It missed the whole point and original advantage of 6.5 mm cartridges.
The Original 6.5mm Advantage
The special needs of long-range competition have skewed things a little. However the original advantages of 6.5mm cartridges — how deadly the 6.5mms are on game animals, how little recoil they produce, and how easy they are to shoot well — still hold true today.
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Wouldn’t it be great if you could put up one BIG target that would handle a myriad of important tasks at the range: Zeroing, Load Development, Click Value Verification, and Click Tracking Repeatability Tests. Well the team at Box to Bench Precision (B2B) has developed what may be the most versatile (and biggest) precision targets ever developed. With precise grid geometry, and razor-sharp printing, B2B’s targets are probably the most advanced shooting targets ever created.
B2B’s 100 Yard Long Range Load Development and Scope Tracking Target will perform many functions. This big, 30″ x 23.5″ target has specific aiming points for various tasks. In the upper left, there are 11 small orange circles for precision load testing. Over on the upper right are 7 more small, orange circles for doing a Seating Depth Comparison test.
The bottom half of the target has larger black-on-white circles that serve multiple functions. Use the corner circles to do a “Box Test” to confirm scope tracking. On the bottom row is one B/W circle to confirm zero and another to use for velocity testing. There’s another great feature on this target — running up the center of the target is a tall line that shows elevation in both MILs and MOA. That helps you confirm the TRUE click values of your optic. You’d be surprised how many scopes are slightly off — not exactly 1/4 MOA, 1/8 MOA, or 1/10 Mil as advertised. That’s why Long Range shooters absolutely need to verify their click values.
Click Tracking Grid Target
Need to test the click tracking of your optics? B2B developed an advanced target just for that task. The MOA Grid Target (shown below) provides a highly precise grid for testing elevation and windage clicks. The unique grid design has small tics denoting 1/4 MOA, 1/2 MOA, and 3/4 MOA. 1 MOA is marked with a “+” and the 5, 10, 15, 20, & 25 MOA elevation lines are bolded for better visibility. There are aiming points at 5 MOA intervals over the full grid.
Buyers Praise the B2B Targets
The B2B Targets are printed on high-quality, tear-resistant card stock. We can attest the printing is very precise — with accurate elevation and windage values. These aren’t your ordinary targets — they are LARGE — nearly three feet tall. Verified buyers praise these targets, one noting how the B2B target revealed his scope was not tracking properly:
“Thank you for talking to me about the MIL and MOA markers on your targets. They are very accurate. While using the Long Range 100-Yard Load Development/Scope Tracking target and my new scope, it helped me realize that my scope wasn’t tracking correctly (both turrets). So, I sent the scope to the manufacturer. When it came back, and using your target as my known constant… the scope is now ‘spot-on’ accurate. These targets are a great tool to gain a better understanding of your rifle, scope, turrets etc., all on one sheet.” — Stan
“Almost too nice to put holes in. I was in the printing industry for 35 years and these are really well done. Quality paper and precise printing, should be able to see bullet holes easily with these!” — Dan
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One Shooters’ Forum member asked: “What makes an AR accurate? What parts on an AR can really affect accuracy — such as free-floating handguards, barrels, bolts, bolt carriers?” He wanted an honest, well-informed answer, not just sales pitches. Robert Whitley posted a very detailed answer to this question, based on his experience building/testing scores of AR-platform rifles. Robert operated AR-X Enterprises, which produced match-grade uppers for High Power competitors, tactical shooters, and varminters.
Building an Accurate AR — What is Most Important
by Robert Whitley
There are a lot of things that can be done to an AR to enhance consistent accuracy, and I use the words “consistent accuracy” because consistency is a part of it (i.e. plenty of guns will give a couple great 5-shot groups, but won’t do a very good 10- or 20-shot groups, and some guns will shoot great one day and not so good on others).
Here are 14 key things we think are important to accuracy.
1. Great Barrel: You’ll want a premium match-grade barrel, well-machined with a good crown and a match-type chambering, true to the bore and well cut. The extension threads must also be cut true to the bore, with everything true and in proper alignment.
2. Rigid Upper: A rigid, heavy-walled upper receiver aids accuracy. The typical AR upper receiver was made for a lightweight carry rifle and they stripped all the metal they could off it to make it light to carry (which is advantageous for the military). The net result are upper receivers that are so thin you can flex them with your bare hands. These flexible uppers are “strong enough” for general use, but they are not ideal for accuracy. Accuracy improves with a more rigid upper receiver.
3. True Receiver Face: We’ve found that truing the receiver face is valuable. Some may argue this point but it is always best to keep everything related to the barrel and the bore in complete alignment with the bore (i.e. barrel extension, bolt, upper receiver, carrier, etc.).
4. Barrel Extension: You should Loctite or glue the barrel extension into the upper receiver. This holds it in place all the way front to back in the upper receiver. Otherwise if there is any play (and there typically is) it just hangs on the face of the upper receiver completely dependent on the face of the upper receiver as the sole source of support for the barrel as opposed to being made more an integral part of the upper receiver by being glued-in.
5. Gas Block: You want a gas block that does not impose pointed stress on the barrel. Clamp-on types that grab all the way around the barrel are excellent. The blocks that are pinned on with tapered pins that wedge against the barrel or the slip on type of block with set screws that push up from underneath (or directly on the barrel) can deform the bore inside of the barrel and can wreck the accuracy of an otherwise great barrel.
6. Free-Float Handguard: A rigid, free-float handguard (and I emphasize the word rigid) really makes a difference. There are many types of free-float handguards and a free-float handguard is, in and of itself, a huge improvement over a non-free-float set up, but best is a rigid set-up. Some of the ones on the market are small diameter, thin and/or flexible and if you are shooting off any type of rest, bipod, front bag, etc., a rigid fore-end is best since ARs want to jump, bounce and twist when you let a shot go, as the carrier starts to begin its cycle before the bullet exits the bore.
7. Barrel Contour: You want some meat on the barrel. Between the upper receiver and the gas block don’t go real thin with a barrel (we like 1″ diameter if it’s workable weight-wise). When you touch off a round and the bullet passes the gas port, the gas system immediately starts pressuring up with a gas impulse that provides vibrations and stress on the barrel, especially between the gas block back to the receiver. A heavier barrel here dampens that. Staying a little heavier with barrel contour through the gas block area and out to the muzzle is good for the same reasons. ARs have a lot going on when you touch off a round and the gas system pressures up and the carrier starts moving (all before the bullet exits the bore) so the more things are made heavier and rigid to counteract that the better — within reason (I’m not advocating a 12-lb barrel).
8. Gas Tube Routing Clearance: You want a gas tube that runs freely through the barrel nut, through the front of the upper receiver, and through the gas key in the carrier. Ensure the gas tube is not impinged by any of them, so that it does not load the carrier in a stressed orientation. You don’t want the gas tube bound up so that when the gas tube pressures up it immediately wants to transmit more force and impulse to the barrel than would normally occur. We sometimes spend a lot of time moving the gas block with gas tube on and off new build uppers and tweaking gas tubes to get proper clearance and alignment. Most gas tubes do need a little “tweaking” to get them right — factory tubes may work OK but they typically do not function optimally without hand-fitting.
9. Gas Port Tuning: You want to avoid over-porting the gas port. Being over-gassed makes the gas system pressure up earlier and more aggressively. This causes more impulse, and increases forces and vibration affecting the top end and the barrel. Tune the gas port to give the amount of pressure needed to function properly and adequately but no more.
10. Front/Back Bolt Play: If accuracy is the game, don’t leave a lot of front/back bolt play (keep it .003″ but no more than .005″). We’ve seen factory rifles run .012″ to .015″ play, which is OK if you need to leave room for dirt and grime in a military application. However, that amount of play is not ideal for a high-accuracy AR build. A lot of front/back bolt play allows rounds to be hammered into the chamber and actually re-formed in a non-consistent way, as they are loaded into the chamber.
11. Component Quality: Use good parts from a reputable source and be wary of “gun show specials”. All parts are NOT the same. Some are good, some are not so good, and some aftermarket parts are simply bad. Don’t be afraid to use mil-spec-type carriers; by and large they are excellent for an accuracy build. Also, remember that just because a carrier says “National Match” or something else on it does not necessarily mean it’s any better. Be wary of chrome-plated parts as the chrome plating can change the parts dimensionally and can also make it hard to do hand-fitting for fit and function.
12. Upper to Lower Fit: A good upper/lower fit is helpful. For quick and dirty fit enhancement, an Accu-Wedge in the rear helps a lot. The ultimate solution is to bed the upper to a specific lower so that the upper and lower, when together, are more like one integral unit. For the upper receivers we produce, we try to get the specs as close as we can, but still fit the various lowers in the market place.
13. Muzzle Attachments: Don’t screw up the muzzle (literally). Leave as much metal on the barrel at the muzzle as you can. People like to thread the muzzle for a flash hider, suppressor, muzzle brake, or some other attachment, but if you really want accuracy, leave as much metal as you can there. And, if you have something that screws on, set it up so that it can be put on and have it stay there without putting a lot of torque and stress on it right where the bullet exits the bore. If you are going to thread the end of the barrel, make it concentric with the bore and make sure what you screw on there is as well. For all muzzle attachments, also ensure that the holes through which the bullet passes through are dead true to the bore. Many aftermarket screw-on things are not so good that way. Anything that vents gas should vent symmetrically (i.e. if it vents left, it should vent equally right, and likewise, if it vents up, it should vent down equally). Uneven venting of gas can wreck accuracy.
14. Quality Ammunition: Ammo is a whole story by itself, but loads that are too hot typically shoot poorly in an AR-15. If you want accuracy out of an AR-15, avoid overly hot loads. Shown below are test groups shot with four (4) different uppers, all with moderate loads. These four uppers all pretty much had the same features and things done to them as explained in this article, and they all shot great.
Robert Whitley
6mmAR.com
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This deluxe, roll-out Rush Creek Creations 42-0000 69″ x 16″ gun cleaning mat (with pockets), is available from Amazon for $69.84 (#ad).
We normally use a gun cradle when cleaning or adjusting our rifles. But there are situations, such as when working on a barreled action, when it’s nice to use a pad that lies flat. Many work pads are too small — they’re nothing more than oversize mouse pads. Here are three gun pads that are big enough to work well with rifles and/or barreled actions.
DryMate Gun Cleaning Pad
The Drymate Gun Cleaning Pad is a full 59″ x 16″. That’s nearly five FEET from end to end — longer than most rifles, so you have plenty of surface area for working. Conveniently, this product can be washed with soap and water. It is offered in Green and Charcoal Gray colors. We prefer the Green version because the color makes it a bit easier to see small black and gray parts such as screws and springs.
Boyt Harness Counter Pad
The 48″ x 12″ Boyt Harness Counter Pad was originally designed more for display purposes than for serious work sessions, but we like this product. It is useful if you want to lay your gun on a bench to make small adjustments. The Boyt Counter Pad, $27.99 at MidwayUSA, is nice and big, a full four feet from end to end. The back side is canvas while the top-size is a quilted cotton fabric. This product has received high praise from buyers. Here are actual owner reviews:
Worth every penny. I bought three of them because I want to have at least one always around. I use one for a shooting bench or tailgate mat and another for my primary gun cleaning workbench mat. Awesome for both purposes. This one was perfect for my array of needs. — Joe D.
This mat is great for cleaning guns and keeping your surfaces clear of oil or solvent. The mat has plenty of space for a rifle or handgun and the padding is thick enough[.] I would definitely buy again and have recommended this to my friends and family. — Safety Guy
I bring this to the rifle range with me every time, to rest my rifle on the table without worrying about scratches. It fits nicely in my soft rifle case. One side is a tough canvas material that doesn’t show scratches, and the other side is a soft fleece material that protects the finish of your gun. — MACPSU
Hoppes Gun Cleaning Pad
The Hoppes Gun Cleaning Pad is 36″ wide x 12″. That’s big enough for many barreled actions (unless you have a really long barrel). This pad has a non-slip nylon backing, and Hoppes claims that the “Soft acrylic material absorbs 8 times its weight in fluids.” This Hoppes Cleaning Pad is very affordable. It costs just $12.66 at Amazon (#ad).
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Are you a do-it-yourself kind of guy with a creative eye? Then you’ll love the FREE Target Generator from the folks at ShooterShed.com. This FREE, interactive webpage allows you to design a variety of fun targets, including grids, benchrest-type Score/Group Shooting targets, sight-in targets, and even playing card targets. Choose the paper size and orientation (vertical or horizontal), then select the number of target elements on the page. For example, you could have four (4) bulls or a dozen playing cards. Then click the Style TAB to choose your target style. Use the OPTIONS TAB to overlay a grid on the target, choose squares or diamonds, or include load information blocks. For bullseye targets, you can control the number, color, and spacing (diameter) of the rings. LINK to TARGET GENERATOR.
QWIK TIP: For Super-Quick Target Creation, click the “Target Style” tab, then select a design from the list on the left. Then go to OPTIONS.
Click the TARGET STYLE TAB to select one of many target styles, including NBRSA Benchrest targets and 20+ types of NRA bullseye targets, scaled to distance:
Benchrest
Bullseye
Shapes
NRA High Power
NRA Pistol
NRA Rimfire
Images
Playing Cards
Load Test Blocks
Creating new targets is fast and easy. No computer graphics skills required! We created this green diamonds grid target in just five minutes using the ShooterShed Target Generator:
And here is a handy target with short-range range Benchrest competition-style box/circle aiming points, along with fields for entry of gun/load data:
The program provides a preview of each target you generate. There are controls to choose border and fill colors. If you like a particular design, save the file, and then print as many targets as you want. Check it out, this program is fun and handy to use. Here are four (4) targets your Editor created just for this article. With a bit of practice, you can be generating your own custom targets in minutes.
About the Creator of the Target Generator
The Target Generator program was created by Rod Brown of Sheridan, Wyoming. Rod tells us: “I build custom rifles… I’ve got a 100-yard range out my back door. I shoot short- and long-range benchrest competitively around the country. I’m a full-time software development consultant and an FFL holder. When I’m not developing custom software for my clients, I’m usually fiddling in the shop, building a custom benchrest rifle, traveling to a match, chambering a barrel, or reloading some ammunition.”
Story tip from Boyd Allen. We welcome reader submissions.
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With the skyrocketing prices of ammo, more shooters than ever are hand-loading pistol and rifle ammunition. But many novice reloaders tell us that it’s a bit overwhelming in the beginning. Just learning all the technical terms (e.g. ogive, meplat, ballistic coefficient, load density etc.) is difficult, and the task of selecting the right tools and gear can be daunting.
The first thing a new reloader should do is find an experienced reloading mentor. One can learn the basics much more quickly under the guidance of an experienced hand-loader who “knows the ropes”. We also recommend that newbies acquire a good basic reloading handbook — not just a list of load recipes, but a book that explains the processes.
Since the first edition was published in the 1970s, the ABCs of Reloading series has taught countless firearms owners safe/reliable methods for creating their own ammunition. ABCs of Reloading provides beginners what they need to know to get started in reloading. From basic topics such as “How does a cartridge work?” and “What components do I need?” to more advanced discussions of cartridge pressure, headspace, and chrono testing, this is a great resource for new handloaders.
In addition, the sections on advanced reloading and new powders make the new edition valuable for experienced handloaders. And long-range shooters will benefit from the sections on making ultra-consistent ammo and fine-tuning for precision accuracy. Massaro’s coverage of new reloading gear and components is another bonus (shown below is the new RCBS MatchMaster powder dispenser).
Review from purchaser of “The ABCs of Reloading”, 8th Edition:
“When I first got the itch to load my own ammunition, I was overwhelmed by the amount of information and terminology involved in this fascinating field/hobby. It was very difficult to take all the individual pieces of information that I had and form it into an understandable process. I was snowed in under a blizzard of data that I was piecing together through chat rooms and web sites. Phrases like ‘roll crimp’ and ‘headspace’ came at me in a blizzard. I could look up each phrase, understand each one as a piece, but still the whole picture was fuzzy. In essence, that is what this book will do for you — turn it all into a coherent, linear whole. The writing is very solid and clear, the illustrations are well-done and helpful, and the information is very complete. After reading this book, the entire process made sense to me, and more importantly, I was fully warned about the dos and don’ts of the reloading world. The coverage is very complete. Primers, powders, bullets, and … all necessary tools and accessories are discussed and explained. This is just a great book. It won’t make you an expert … but it will put you on the right road if you wish to become one.” — Mykal Banta
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Close-up view of a sectioned case. This one here was “fixin’ to pop”, observed Glen Zediker.
Here are highlights from an article Glen Zediker wrote for the Midsouth Blog. In that article Glen, who sadly passed away in 2020, focused on cartridge brass. Glen identified the most common failures that appear with brass that has been shot multiple times, or which has been fired at excessive pressures. Glen explained some simple ways to check your cartridge brass to detect “early warning signs” of case failure, particularly case head separation, which can be very dangerous.
How Cases Degrade with Multiple Firings By Glen Zediker
This article explains when, and then how, to check after the progress of changes commencing with the firing on a new case. It’s the “progress of degeneration,” in a way of looking at it because the concern is getting a handle on when enough change in the brass has come about to require attention. Or abandonment. As said then, for me that’s 4 firings. That, as said last time, is when I might see changes that need attention. Also as said, that figure didn’t come out of a hat, but from my own notes in running my competition NRA High Power Rifle loads. [Editor’s Note: With Lapua brass, using moderate loads, in bolt-action rifles, we typically get about 10 good (match-worthy) firings. But if you anneal your Lapua brass, and run modest pressures, Lapua brass can perform well for 20 or more load cycles.]
The areas most affected are the case neck and case head area. Case neck walls get thicker [but] the case head area body walls get thinner. Primer pockets get shallower and larger diameter.
This case shows a cracked neck AND a crack (separation) above the case head. Zediker says it is “rare to see one case with both of the most common failures. [This case] was attacked by an M14.”
Case Head — Causes of Separation and Cracking
When a case is under pressure during firing, the brass, like water, flows where it can, where it’s more free to move. Of course, the chamber steel limits the amount it can expand. The case shoulder blows fully forward and the case base is slammed back against the bolt face. There is, therefore and in effect, a tug on both ends — it gets stretched. The shoulder area is relatively free to expand to conform to the chamber, but the other end, the case head area, is not. Since that’s the area of the case with the thickest walls, it doesn’t expand “out” much at all. What it does is stretch. The “case head area,” as I refer to it here, is the portion of the case above the web, which is just above the taper that leads in to the extractor groove. The “area” extends approximately an eighth-inch up the case body.
Here’s a “pressure ring.” You’ll see this after firing, if you see it. And, if you see it, that case is done. The bright ring indicates excessive stretching, which indicates excessive thinning. If you see a ring circling the case, noticeable because it’s lighter color than the case body, and it’s in this area, I’d say that case is done. And that’s right where a “head separation” occurs. It can crack and also blow slap in two, and that’s the “separation” part of case head separation.
Photo courtesy GS Arizona.
This is a spot to keep close watch on as cases age. It is also the area that is more “protected” by sizing with less case shoulder set-back. That is, pretty much, where the freedom for the stretching movement in this area comes from (the case shoulder creates a gap). If you’re seeing a sign that a head separation [might happen with relatively few firings], chances are the shoulder set-back is excessive, and also… the load pressure level.
Bent Paper Clip Case-Wall Gauge
Editor: You can use a bent paper clip to detect potential case wall problems. Slide the paper clip inside your case to check for thin spots. GS Arizona explains: “This simple little tool (bent paper clip) will let you check the inside of cases before you reload them. The thin spot will be immediately apparent as you run the clip up the inside of the case. If you’re seeing a shiny line on the outside and the clip is really hitting a thin spot inside, it’s time to retire the case.” Photo by GS Arizona.
Monitor Primer Pocket Dimensional Changes
Another case-head-area and pressure-related check is the primer pocket. As said, the primer pocket will get larger in diameter and shallower in depth each firing. As with many such things, the questions are “when” and “how much,” and the main thing, “how much?”
If the pocket gets excessively shallow, and that’s judged by a primer that seats fully but isn’t at least a tick below flush with the case base, there could be function issues. There’s a risk of a “slam-fire” with a semi-auto that uses a floating firing pin, and, if there is actual protrusion, that has the same effect as insufficient headspace. A primer pocket uniformer can reset the depth of a shallowed primer pocket to what it should be, but the real test for me is how easily the next primer seats into it. If it’s significantly less resistance, I’ll say that case is done. Shallower can be refurbished. That’s a primary function of a primer pocket uniformer. Larger diameter, though, can’t be fixed. I’ve mentioned in another article or two that, any more at least, my main gauge of load pressure has become how much primer pocket expansion there’s been.
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The first question you have to ask is whether the intended recipient can legally own the firearm where he or she lives. With more than 20,000 different gun laws on the books, even the kinds of firearms that law-abiding citizens can own vary from place to place. For example, juveniles (under age 18) generally speaking are precluded by law from possessing a handgun. Check out the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) website for an overview of local laws and, whatever you do, don’t forget that you can never under any circumstances transfer a firearm to someone you know — or have reasonable cause to believe — legally can’t own one. That’s a federal felony, so be careful.
Consider a Gift Card Instead of Direct Gift
Barrel/Shoulder Fit and Blue-Printing
.260 Remington – Developed by Remington to compete with the 6.5mmx55 Swedish Mauser that was (finally) gaining popularity in 1996. By necking down the 7mm-08 Remington to 6.5mm (.264 cal), the .260 Remington was created. It fit the same short-action [receivers] that fit .308 Win, .243 Win, 7mm-08 Rem, etc. You can expect velocities of 2600-2700 fps with 140gr bullets in the 260 .Remington.
5. Gas Block: You want a gas block that does not impose pointed stress on the barrel. Clamp-on types that grab all the way around the barrel are excellent. The blocks that are pinned on with tapered pins that wedge against the barrel or the slip on type of block with set screws that push up from underneath (or directly on the barrel) can deform the bore inside of the barrel and can wreck the accuracy of an otherwise great barrel.
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