Many hunters and precision rifle competitors use muzzle brakes because these ported devices reduce felt recoil significantly. That make s real difference getting back on target for quick follow-up shots. While many rifle owners appreciate the benefits of muzzle brakes, they may also neglect their brakes, allowing hard carbon and powder residue to build up. Not good. You should regularly clean your muzzle brake to remove fouling and carbon build-up.
As Mark Edgreen posted: “Carbon build up on the crown and in the brake is a recipe for poor accuracy.” And another gunsmith reported that customers complained about guns that “shot out way too early” but they only needed to have the brakes cleaned.
Gunsmith and PRS/NRL competitor Jim See recently reminded his Facebook Fans about the importance of cleaning muzzle brakes: “How many times do I have to say it? You need to maintain your rifles. Clean your muzzle brakes people!”. Jim, who runs Elite Accuracy LLC, notes that hard carbon build-up in brakes can definitely harm accuracy. Look at this example:
Muzzle Brake Cleaning Methods
There are various methods for cleaning a brake, we list a variety of techniques, but we would start with NON-corrosive ultrasound. You’ll want to remove the muzzle device before doing these tasks.
1. Use Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine with cleaning solution. This may be the most efficient method: “I place my brake in the ultrasonic cleaner. Shiney as new.” (Jim Moseley).
2. Spray with commercial Carb Cleaner and brush. Then apply anti-corrosion coating.
3. Soak in half hydrogen peroxide and half vinegar. Suggestion: “Let sit over night and carbon melts off. Brush remaining carbon off, rinse and put the brake back on.” Apply anti-corrosive before mounting.
4. Soak in 50/50 solution of water and white vinegar and brush. (Be sure to apply anti-corrosion coating, such as Eezox, after soaking).
5. Tumble in liquid solution with stainless pins. Comment: “Comes out slightly faded, but perfectly clean on stainless, non-painted brakes though.” Warning — do NOT do this with threaded brakes — tumbling could affect threads of screw-on brakes. Also, tumbling can harm painted or Cerakote finishes.
Gunsmithing Tip: By fitting the muzzle brake so that the barrel crown is slightly forward, it is easier to wipe carbon fouling off the end of the barrel. See photo:
Jewell triggers are still the most-used triggers on competition benchrest and F-Class rifles and they are also popular for hunting, varmint, and tactical rifles (with or without safeties). While a Jewell trigger can work for years with minimal maintenance, if the trigger becomes gunked up, it may be necessary to disassemble the trigger for a thorough cleaning. Our friends Ed and Steve, aka the 6.5 Guys, have produced a helpful video that shows how to disassemble and then reassemble a Jewell trigger.
Why You May Need to Disassemble Your Jewell Trigger — the 6.5 Guys
Jewell triggers are a popular choice in the sport of long range precision shooting, and like everything else require regular cleaning and maintenance. In most cases they can be cleaned with charcoal lighter fluid or dropped into an ultrasonic cleaner. Should the situation require, they can be completely disassembled according to the Jewell Trigger Manual.
We ran into a situation where we had to dissemble a trigger due to the entrapment of some sticky dirt that couldn’t be removed with an ultrasonic cleaner. Our first step was to find some step-by-step instructions but we couldn’t find anything.
Recognizing that other shooters might be in the same situation we produced a step-by-step guide and video, published in full on 65Guys.com. These instructions will work with a left- or right-handed trigger. In our case we worked with a left-handed BR model trigger with safety and bolt release.
Step-by-Step Instructions are provided on 65Guys.com website. We recommend you read all the instructions carefully before you even think about disassembling your trigger. This video explains the process so you can get a sense of what is involved.
If you are considering purchasing a progressive reloading press — you’ve struck gold. Today’s Saturday at the Movies article showcases the most comprehensive video ever created about progressive presses. Hosted by Gavin Gear of UltimateReloader.com, this remarkable 79-minute video covers a dozen presses from six leading manufacturers: Dillon, Frankford Arsenal, Hornady, Lee, Mark 7 (Lyman), and RCBS.
Set aside plenty of time, because there is a wealth of information — the “mother lode” of progressive press coverage. Along with the big comparison video, Gavin has prepared a detailed, 17-page online article which covers all of the presses in the shootout. This 17-page article also includes many product-specific videos. We link to five of these videos below.
12 Progressive Presses are compared in this comprehensive video:
Here it is! Ultimate Reloader’s long-awaited Progressive Press Shootout. This online article and accompanying video represent the most exhaustive and most in-depth look at progressive press reloading equipment. The Ultimate Reloader Progressive Shootout covers a dozen different progressives from Dillon, Frankford Arsenal, Hornady, Mark 7 (Lyman), and RCBS. Reviewer Gavin Gear demonstrates how each press works and provides data on costs, output rates, capabilities, and accessories so that potential buyers can make informed purchasing decisions.
MORE INFO — Progressive Press Shootout Online Article
To accompany the remarkable 79-minute Progressive Press Shootout Video, Gavin Gear has posted a ton of information on his UltimateReloader.com website. A lengthy online article provides detailed information on the particular presses, press mounts, and lighting, as well as general details such as cost of ownership. We provide links to particular topics below. This is a GREAT RESOURCE — it’s like getting an entire chapter of a technical book all for FREE!
Below we provide links to each product-specific online page, along with the corresponding time-link to the related segment of the 79-minute Progressive Shootout video.
NOTE: Along with the presses featured in these six videos, the Ultimate Reloader Progressive Press Comparison video covers six other presses (12 total), in a comprehensive 1 hour 19 minute video linked at the top of this article.
Tactical competitor Zak Smith stores his elevation and wind drift data on a handy laminated data card. To make one, first generate a come-up table, using one of the free online ballistics programs such as JBM Ballistics. You can also put the info in an Excel spreadsheet or MS Word table and print it out.
Above is a sample of a data card. For each distance, the card includes drop in inches, drop in MOA, drop in Mils. It also shows drift for a 10-mph cross wind, expressed in inches, MOA, and mils. Zak explained that “to save space… I printed data every 50 yards. For an actual data-card, I recommend printing data every 20 or 25 yards.” But Zak also advised that you’ll want to customize the card format to keep things simple: “The sample card has multiple sets of data to be more universal. But if you make your own data card, you can reduce the chance of a mistake by keeping it simple.”
Once you have the card you can fold it in half and then have it laminated at a local office store or Kinko’s. Keep this in your pocket, tape it to your stock, or tie the laminated card to your rifle. If you regularly shoot at both low and high elevations, you may want to create multiple cards (since your ballistics change with altitude). To learn more about ballistic tables and data cards, check out the excellent “Practical Long-Range Rifle Shooting–Part 1″ article on Zak’s website.
Scope-Cover Mounted Ballistics Table
Another option is to place your ballistics card on the back of the front flip-up scope cover. This set-up is used by Forum member Greg C. (aka “Rem40X”). With your ‘come-up’ table on the flip-up cover you can check your windage and elevation drops easily without having to move out of shooting position.
Greg tells us: “Placing my trajectory table on the front scope cover has worked well for me for a couple of years and thought I’d share. It’s in plain view and not under my armpit.
And the table is far enough away that my aging eyes can read it easily. To apply, just use clear tape on the front objective cover.”
Gun Storage Check Week is the time to ensure your firearms are stored safely and securely. NSSF, the Firearm Industry Trade Association, is promoting Gun Storage Check Week, June 1-7, 2025, to remind gun owners to review their storage practices to prevent accidents, suicides and thefts. During this week, check your gun safe(s), and ensure your firearms are stored correctly and locked down properly. Also use secure gun cases when transporting firearms to the range. When traveling by air, use proper TSA-approved gun cases and comply with transport rules.
“Securely storing guns when they’re not in use can save lives. It’s really that simple,” said Joe Bartozzi, President and CEO of NSSF. “No one wants their gun in the hands of an unsupervised child, a person in crisis, someone who does not understand how to safely operate firearms, or a thief. If something bad happens because your gun isn’t stored securely, you’ll regret it, probably forever.”
This video covers gun safety rules and secure storage of firearms.
Gun Storage Check Week’s safety resources highlight many options to store firearms securely so that guns are off limits to unauthorized persons. Secure gun storage devices include:
Cable Locks — Available free of charge through NSSF’s Project ChildSafe® program Lock Boxes — Secure storage solution for guns kept for home security and in vehicles Lockable Gun Cases — for security, portability, and travel Full-size Gun Safes — For owners with multiple firearms to protect against fire and theft.
Enter to Win Product Prizes in June
Each week in June 2025, you can enter to win firearm storage units and other safety equipment thanks to Regal Products, Vault Pro, and ShotLock. Storage equipment prize packages are valued up to $499 and change weekly. Shown below is the first set of prizes. Go to GunStorageCheck.org to register. One winner per week will be chosen. The contest restarts each week, so you can enter up to four times in June.
Credit our buddy Joe Friedrich for this simple yet effective accessory for your benchrest rifle. Joe shoots a .22 LR benchrest rig with a barrel tuner. When he added weights to his tuner, he found his rifle no longer balanced well. He wanted to add some weight in the rear without drilling holes in the stock. He also wanted the weight to be removable, and easily placed on another rifle in his stable. He wanted a weight that could be moved from gun to gun as needed.
At a local sporting goods shop Joe found a 1.5-lb ankle weight that comes in a padded, tubular elastic cover. It’s like a 1.5-lb sausage in a soft, stretchy nylon cover. (Imagine a really fat, heavy bungee cord). Joe simply attached a plastic zip tie at the end to make a loop that fits perfectly over his buttstock. CLICK HERE for full-screen photo.
To “tune” the rifle’s balance, Joe just slides the ankle weight fore and aft on the stock. We have tried this moveable ankle weight on a variety of different BR stocks (including a McMillan Edge) and it worked perfectly. This is a great invention, and would work with sporter rifles and ARs just as well.
NOTE: Obviously, this ring will increase the measured weight of your rifle. So, if you are competing in a registered match with weight restrictions, you have to ensure that your rifle still makes class weight limits with the ankle weight ring in place.
On the Applied Ballistics Facebook Page, there is a fascinating series of posts showing traces of bullets at various speeds from Mach 0.86 to Mach 3.0. At the slowest speed, Mach 0.86, i.e. 962 FPS, there is turbulence behind the bullet, but no clear shockwave. At the highest velocity, Mach 3.0 (3375 FPS at sea level, 68° F), there is a dramatic double nose and tail wave formation.
To learn more, visit TheScienceofAccuracy.com. On that site you’ll find exclusive video content and you can subscribe to member’s only Podcasts. And you can purchase Applied Ballistics books on the Science of Accuracy webstore.
Mach 3.00 Bullet Flight Image
At Mach 3 (3355 FPS) this bullet now has a strong and well established shock wave forming at the tip, and at the base. Unlike the transition through Mach 1.0, nothing really interesting happens to the aerodynamics or shock waves meaning the aerodynamics and stability are: continuous, easy to predict, and model. As you go faster, the shockwaves make a shallower angle because the bullet is moving forward 3X faster than the shock wave is moving away from it. So the shock wave makes an angle that has a rise/run ratio of 1/3.
If a bullet flew within 10 feet of you traveling this fast, it would be about as loud as a 22 magnum. You’d certainly want hearing protection as the energy contained in a Mach 3 shock wave is high! How high…? Well, in 10 yards, this bullet slows from 3355 FPS to 3334 FPS in a time of 0.0090 seconds. The 55 ft-lb of kinetic energy lost during this 10 yards is due to aerodynamic drag on the bullet, which is comprised of wave, base, and skin friction drag components with the majority of the drag being due to shock wave formation. Expending 55 ft-lb of energy in 0.0090 seconds requires a power output of 6111 ft-lb/sec = 11.1 horsepower, most of which goes into creating the shock wave. Remember it’s a 3-D cone that travels great distance, and it gets its energy by stealing velocity from your bullet!
Mach 1.00 Bullet Flight Image
Many shots were fired to capture an image of the transonic shockwave structure at exactly Mach 1.00. With the bullet now moving at the speed of sound, the local airflow on some parts of the bullet exceeds Mach 1.0. Anytime something is moving thru the air faster than the air can get out of the way, you get a compression wave, aka “shock wave”. That’s what’s visible in this image — the areas where the air density changes rapidly (in the compression wave) are visible as near vertical lines and a detached bow wave out front. As the bullet progresses through transonic speed, this shockwave structure develops which has strong effects on the drag (wind sensitivity) and stability of the bullet.
The exact development of the shockwaves and the resulting effects are unique and sensitive to the bullet geometry, and become very difficult to predict through the transition from subsonic (incompressible flow without shock waves) to supersonic (compressible flow with shock waves). Each bullet geometry does this differently which is why it’s difficult to determine transonic stability criteria for bullets of different shapes.
Mach 0.86 Bullet Flight Image
Here’s a bullet at Mach 0.86 (86% the speed of sound, which is 962 FPS at 61° F). As you can see, this 0.86 Mach is not fast enough to make any discernable waves but you can see turbulence in the bullet wake (right side in photo). The beginning of small shock waves can be seen on the bullet tip, and at the bearing surface/boat tail juncture. For the most part, all of the airflow around this bullet is subsonic. You wouldn’t hear a supersonic ‘crack’ from this bullet flying past the observer.
Tumblers and walnut/corncob media are old school. These days many shooters prefer processing brass rapidly with an ultrasonic cleaning machine. When used with the proper solution, a good ultrasonic cleaning machine can quickly remove remove dust, carbon, oil, and powder residue from your cartridge brass. The ultrasonic process will clean the inside of the cases, and even the primer pockets. Tumbling works well too, but for really dirty brass, ultrasonic cleaning may be a wise choice.
Our friend Gavin Gear has evaluated an RCBS Ultrasonic cleaning machine using RCBS Ultrasonic Case Cleaning Solution (RCBS #87058). To provide a real challenge, Gavin used some very dull and greasy milsurp brass: “I bought a huge lot of military once-fired 7.52x51mm brass (fired in a machine gun) that I’ve been slowly prepping for my DPMS LR-308B AR-10 style rifle. Some of this brass was fully prepped (sized/de-primed, trimmed, case mouths chamfered, primer pockets reamed) but it was gunked up with lube and looking dingy.”
UltimateReloader.com Case Cleaning Video (7.5 minutes):
Gavin describes the cleaning exercise step-by-step on UltimateReloader.com. Read Gavin’s Cartridge Cleaning Article to learn how he mixed the solution, activated the heater, and cycled the machine for 30 minutes. As you can see in the video above, the results were impressive. If you have never cleaned brass with ultrasound before, you should definitely watch Gavin’s 7.5-minute video — it provides many useful tips and shows the cleaning operation in progress from start to finish.
Ultra Dry Necks After Ultrasonic Cleaning — Some Suggestions
The Ultrasonic cleaning process gets cartridge brass so “squeaky clean” that increased force may be required to seat your bullets, or they may “grab” as they go in the necks. To reduce bullet-seating effort, you may benefit from adding a little dry case lube inside the case-neck before loading (use a nylon brush). Another trick is adding a teaspoon of Ballistol lube to the cleaning solution. That provides a trace lubricant inside the necks, but does not interfere with powder ignition in any way.
The latest Gen2 RCBS ultrasonic cleaning machine has a large 6.3-quart capacity. That’s nearly 100% larger than the first generation machine in Gavin’s video. The Gen2 machine, $439.99 at Cabela’s, features a second ceramic heater and transducer to better clean brass cases and firearm parts. The LED is easily programmable, and the timer can be set for up to 30 minutes of cleaning. The original 3.2 quart-capacity RCBS ultrasonic machine, as shown in Gavin’s video, is still available for $197.99 at Midsouth Shooters.
The official start of summer is just a few weeks away, and temperatures are starting to heat up. We are already seeing unseasonably hot conditions in some areas of the country. You never want your barrels to get too hot, which can happen more quickly in summertime. Accuracy suffers when barrels over-heat, and excessive heat is not good for barrel life. So how do you monitor your barrel’s temperature? You can check if the barrel is “warm to the touch” — but that method is not particularly precise. There is a better way — using temperature-sensitive strips. McMaster.com (an industrial supply house) offers stick-on temp strips with values from 86° F to 140° F. A pack of ten (10) of these horizontal strips (item 59535K13) costs $14.91. That’s a mere $1.49 per barrel for strips — cheap insurance for your precious barrels. For best barrel life, you should try to keep your barrels under 120 degrees F.
NOTE: On the McMaster.com website, you’ll need to scroll down to the multi-use “Temperature Indicating Labels”. Then click on the horizontal label and select item 59535K13, as shown below.
Forum member Nomad47 says: “I have temperature strips (bought at McMaster-Carr) on all my barrels. I try not to shoot when the barrel gets to 122 degrees or higher[.]” Here are photos of the McMaster-Carr temp strips on Nomad47’s customized Savage.
Creedmoor Sports now offers handy Temp Strips, with 3-packs for $12.95. These have colored temp range markers so you can quickly see if your barrel is getting too hot. Creedmoor Sports notes: “The temperature range of 30-160° spaced in 10° increments fit most … shooting situations. The 1″-wide 6″-long LCD strip will provide many years of service. In general, we recommend that if a barrel begins to reach 140°, it is too hot and continuing to shoot at these temperatures accelerates barrel wear These barrel temperature strips use a 3M® adhesive and will stick to blued, parkerized and stainless barrels.”
Bad things can happen if your barrel gets too hot. First, with some barrels, the point of impact (POI) will shift or “walk” as the barrel heats up excessively. Second, even if the POI doesn’t change, the groups can open up dramatically when the barrel gets too hot. Third, if the barrel is very hot, the chamber will transfer heat to your loaded cartridge, which can lead to pressure issues. Finally, there’s considerable evidence that hot barrels wear out faster. This is a very real concern, particularly for varmint shooters who may shoot hundreds of rounds in a day. For this reason, many varminters switch among various guns, never letting a particular barrel get too hot.
Neconos.com offers BAR-L Temp Strips that visually display heat readings from 86 to 140 degrees. Think of these strips as compact, unbreakable thermometers that monitor barrel heating.
Put a strip on the side of the barrel and the barrel’s temp will be indicated by a stripe that changes from black to green. There is also a “general purpose” strip that reads to 196 degrees (see bottom row). The Benchrest model strip (86°F to 140°F) is in the middle. These Bar-L temp strips cost $12.70 each, or $28.70 for a 3-pack.
NOTE: These strips can be permanently fixed to the barrel with the heavy-duty clear plastic tape strip provided with the BAR-L Temp strip.
Lever-action rifles have been an important element of American history. These were truly the rifles that “Won the West”. Today, lever-action rifles remain popular with hunters and cowboy-action shooters. And rimfire lever guns are fun for short-range shooting at reactive targets. Easy to carry, lever guns can also be very effective on varmints. For this Saturday-at-the-Movies installment, we feature eight videos about lever-action rifles. These videos review modern lever guns as well as historic 19th-century lever-action rifles. Three of these videos features sophisticated 3D computer animation so you can look inside the rifles to see how the internal mechanisms function to feed, fire, and eject cartridges.
How a Lever-Action Rifle Functions
This video shows the inner mechanisms of a classic lever-action rifle. It shows how the lever actuates case-feeding from the under-barrel tube, then how the hammer is cocked/fired, and finally how the ejection works after the shot is fired. This video also covers lever-action rifle history, looking at the Winchester 1873 as well as popular modern lever-action firearms.
Classic American Lever-Action Rifles — Hickok45’s Insights
Hickok45 is one of the more knowledgeable YouTube gun reviewers, and he personally owns a number of lever guns. In this video, which has over 2.5 million views, Hickok45 first showcases the original Henry Rifle, and the brass-receiver model 1866 (aka “Yellowboy”). Then he reviews Winchester’s model 1873 and model 1876 (Centennial). Next comes Winchester designs by J.M. Browning — the model 1886, model 1892, model 1894, and lastly the distinctive model 1895 with vertical magazine. The Model 1895 was a favorite of President Theodore Roosevelt.
This insightful Hickok45 video has garnered 2.5 million YouTube views. If you can take the time to watch the entire 37-minute video, this is a great history lesson for 19th-century lever guns. In the video, Hickok45 also shows cartridges used in the various rifles.
Top Five Lever-Action Rifle for Hunting and Home Defense
This video combines reviews from multiple YouTube hosts, including .22 Plinkster. It is a good starting point if you are considering purchase of a modern, lever-action rifle for hunting or home defense. We recommend, prior to purchase, that you go to a gun store to inspect the rifles and work the actions. Some lever guns are significantly smoother in operation than others. You’ll also want to check the triggers, and see the options for mounting optics. This video provides a quick look at a variety of lever guns including: Henry Side Gate Lever Rifle; Winchester Model 1866 Short Rifle (replica); Browning BLR Lever Rifle; Marlin Dark Model 336; and Marlin 1895 Custom Shop 45-70.
Seven Reasons to Own a Lever-Action Rifle
We own a variety of lever-action rifles, including Marlins well as handsome replica Uberti 1866 and 1873 rifles. There is much to be said about the lever gun design. Compared to typical modern bolt-actions, lever guns are narrower and lighter. With a little tuning, the replica 19th-century lever-action rifles cycle very quickly and smoothly. And the modern lever guns are good choices for hunters, with their ability to mount scopes and fire modern high-velocity cartridges. This video reveals the reasons every serious shooter should have at least one lever-action rifle in his or her collection.
How a Winchester 1873 Works
This video has over 16 million views on YouTube. The Model 1873 was one of the most successful Winchester rifles of its day, with Winchester marketing it as “The Gun that Won the West”. The original Model 1873 was manufactured between 1873 and 1923, and it is still available today in replica versions. The 1873 was originally chambered for the .44-40 cartridge, the first significant centerfire cartridge. The 1873 was later produced in .38-40 and .32-20, all of which later became popular handgun cartridges of the day. The Model 1873 was produced in four variations: a 24-inch barrel rifle, a 20-inch barrel carbine, and a “musket”—which was aimed at military contracts and only made up less than 5% of production. The standard rifle-length version was most popular in the 19th century, although Winchester would make rifles to order in any configuration the customer wished, including longer barrels or baby carbines with barrels as short as 12 inches, octagonal-shaped barrels, color case-hardened receivers and fancy engraving.
The Henry Big Boy Lever-Action .44 Magnum
Here’s good, thorough 16-minute review of a modern Henry Big Boy side-gate lever-action rifle chambered for the potent .44 Magnum round. This rifle shows the benefits of modern manufacturing methods, and shows good fit and finish. The review puts the rifle through its paces, show how quickly a modern lever gun can be cycled. We think this would be a good choice for a home defense rifle that could share ammunition with a defensive revolver.
American Classic Reborn — Smith & Wesson Model 1854
This video shows the features of the impressive Smith & Wesson Model 1854, which was introduced in early 2024. S&W calls this an “American classic — redefined for the modern user.” This rifle is offered in three main versions with different finishes and stocks. The version shown above features a rugged stainless-steel bead-finish with M-LOK-capable polymer stock and Picatinny optics rail. There is also also a dark Armornite-finish version with Walnut stock. And there is a third “Stealth Hunter” model with a dark finish, shorter 16.5″ barrel, and extended top rail. A variety of chamberings are offered: .357 Magnum, .44 Magnum, .45 Colt, and 45-70.
And if you’ve got some serious bucks there is a Model 1854 .44 Magnum Limited Edition with handsome highly-figured Walnut buttstock and foreend. This limited edition costs a whopping $3849.00 and ships in a special display case (see above).
Marlin 336 XLR Tactical-Style Lever-Action Rifle
And now for something a bit different… Here a Marlin 336 XLR lever-action rifle has been updated with a tactical-style forearm, rail-mounted optic, and suppressor. The reviewer noted how well the rifle functioned: “Recently I got my hands on this 336 XLR from Marlin and all of my preconceptions of tactical lever action rifles has now changed. What I found was a very modern and capable twist to an old school platform.”
More Information on Lever-Action Rifles
Want to learn more about lever-action rifles? RifleShooter magazine has published an interesting article, the 10 Greatest Lever-Action Rifles of All Time. Writing for RifleShooter, Brad Fitzpatrick examined a wide selection of lever guns produced in the past 150 years, and came up with this list of ten “all-star” lever-action rifles:
Savage Model 99
Winchester Model 1873/73
Winchester Model 1888/88
Winchester Model 1892/92
Winchester Model 1894/94
As with all “Top 10″ lists, this will be controversial. Where is the Winchester model 1866 “Yellowboy”, the favorite of Native Americans? Where is the iconic Winchester model 1895, the beloved gun Teddy Roosevelt called “Big Medicine”? But other choices are hard to fault. The classic 1860 Henry Rifle surely belongs on the list. And, believe it or not, the Winchester Model 94 is the best-selling sporting rifle of all time in the USA, according to RifleShooter.
Scope-Cover Mounted Ballistics Table
Credit our buddy Joe Friedrich for this simple yet effective accessory for your benchrest rifle. Joe shoots a .22 LR benchrest rig with a barrel tuner. When he added weights to his tuner, he found his rifle no longer balanced well. He wanted to add some weight in the rear without drilling holes in the stock. He also wanted the weight to be removable, and easily placed on another rifle in his stable. He wanted a weight that could be moved from gun to gun as needed.
