Electronic vs. Dial Locks on Gunsafes
Gunsafes can be fitted with either an electronic keypad-style lock, or a conventional dial lock. In our Gunsafe Buyer’s Guide, we explain the important features of both dial and electronic lock systems. Many safe-makers will tell you that consumers prefer electronic locks for convenience. On the other hand, most of the locksmiths we’ve polled believe that the “old-fashioned” dial locks, such as the Sargent & Greenleaf model 6730, will be more reliable in the long run.
Here is the opinion of RFB from Michigan. He is a professional locksmith with over two decades of experience servicing locks and safes of all brands and types:
What a Professional Locksmith Says:
For the convenience of quick opening, the electronic locks can’t be beat. However, for endurance and years of trouble-free use, the electronics can’t compare with the dial lock.I’ve earned my living, the past 22 years, servicing locks of all types. This includes opening safes that can’t otherwise be opened. I do warranty work for several safe manufacturers (including Liberty). What I’ve learned in all those years is that manual dial locks have very few problems. The most common is a loose dial ring which can shift either left or right, which will result in the index point being in the wrong place for proper tumbler alignment. This is simple to fix.
Electronic locks, however, can have all kinds of issues, and none (except bad key-pad) are easy to fix, and when one goes bad, it must be drilled into to open it. IMO, it’s not a matter of ‘if’ an electronic lock will ultimately fail, but a matter of ‘when’ it will fail. Over the past 10 years or so, since electronics have become more and more prevalent, I’ve had to drill open bad electronic locks vs. bad manual dial locks on a ratio of about 20-1.
My professional opinion is to get the manual dial lock, unless you’ve got a good friend who is a locksmith/safecracker.
How Secure is Your Lock?
RFB tells us that both dial and electronic locks offer good security, provided it’s a good quality lock made by LaGard, Sargent & Greenleaf, Amsec, or Kaba/Ilco. However, RFB warns that “Some of the ‘cheaper’ locks (both manual and electronic) however, are very simple to bypass.
An electronic lock that’s glued or ‘stuck’ to the door with double-sided tape, and has its ‘brain’ on the outside of the lock in the same housing as the keypad, and merely sends power to an inner solenoid via a pair of wires through the door, is a thief’s best friend. The good ones have the brain inside the safe, inaccessible from the outside.
No amateur can ‘manipulate’ either a good manual or electronic lock. Both give you a theoretical one million possible combinations. I say ‘theoretical’ because there are many combinations that cannot, or should not, be used. You wouldn’t set your combo on a dial lock to 01-01-01 etc., nor would you set an electronic to 1-1-1-1-1-1, or 1-2-3-4-5-6.”
Tips for Dial Locks
RFB notes that “The speed, and ease of use, of a manual dial lock can be improved upon, simply by having your combo reset using certain guidelines. Avoid high numbers above 50. Having a 1st number in the 40s, 2nd number anywhere from 0-25, and 3rd number between 25 and 35 will cut dialing time in half, without compromisuing security. (For mechanical reasons I won’t get into here, the 3rd number of a good manual dial lock cannot — or should not — be set to any number between 95 & 20).”
Tips for Electronic Locks
Electronic locks can have the combination changed by the user much more easily than dial locks. But, RFB explains: “That can be a double-edged sword. More than a few times I’ve had to drill open a safe with an electronic lock that has had the combo changed incorrectly by the user, resulting in an unknown number that nobody can determine. Also, don’t forget that electronic locks have a ‘wrong-number lock-out’. I would NOT rely on the normal quickness of an electronic 6-number combo in an emergency situation. If for any reason (panic etc.) you punch in the wrong number several times, the lock will shut down for a 5-minute ‘penalty’.
LaGard electronic locks all come from the assembly line set to 1-2-3-4-5-6. Most safe companies (Granite-Winchester is one) leave it at that, and either the retailer or the end user must reset it. My local Walmart store had those same Winchester safes on display, and one day I was in the sporting goods section near the safe display, and another customer asked the Walmart employee if she could open the safe so he could look inside. She said “no, sorry, I don’t have the combination handy”. I walked over, never said a word… just punched in 1-2-3-4-5-6, turned the handle opening the door, and walked away… again not saying a word. They both just looked at me… dumbfounded that I could open it like that.
To get the most life out of that LaGard [or other electronic lock], you should change the battery at least once a year, whether it needs it or not. Low voltage won’t necessarily shut down the lock, but using it in a low voltage situation is bad for the electronics, and eventually will cause lock failure. C’mon, how much does a 9-volt Duracell cost? A few bucks is a good investment.”
IMPORTANT: If you do nothing else to maintain your digital-lock safe, replace the battery every year. And get a fresh battery (with a release date) from the store — don’t just pull a battery out of a storage bin, even if it’s never been used. Old batteries can degrade, even when in storage.
Safe Warranties — What is NOT Covered
RFB cautions that “With most gunsafes the ‘free repair/replacement’ warranty covers the lock only… not the door of the safe, which will have some holes drilled through it to remove that bad lock. The only proper way to repair those holes is to weld them. I don’t know about you, but most of my customers don’t like welding done inside their home, and the safe must be moved outside. Warranties typically won’t cover that moving cost if your safe is in a difficult to move outside location. Trust me, I’ve been there, done that.”
Similar Posts:
- Electronic vs. Mechanical Dial Locks on Gun Safes
- Gun Safe Great Debate — Electronic Vs. Dial Locks
- Electronic Locks vs. Dial Locks for Gun Safes — Expert Advice
- New Dual-Access Safe Lock: Electronic Keypad with Dial Override
- Replace Gun Safe Keypad Batteries — Don’t Get Locked Out
Tags: digital lock, Gun Safe, Gunsafe, Lock, Safe, Security, Vault
Hello,
Great info! The reason I was looking is I purchased a Cannon gun safe 3 yrs. ago. It has a Kabo electonic lock on it, I changed the combo awhile back and have misplaced it. Cannon is telling me they only keep reset combo’s for a year. Any advice for me besides drilling it out and if so can I do this myself. I paid $800.00 for the safe and if I had someone drill it and replace the lock I would have close to that in it. Any help would be much appreciated!
When you are talking about changing the combination on an electronic lock, the first thing that I was told at my training class is set the combination with the door opened. Then test the lock at least 3 times. Then I feel safe to shut the door. Keep the combination in a safe place.
Looking for help in taking a electronic safe and utilizing the opening through a Access control card reader. Is there anyone who has any suggestions.
I was recently left a winchester gun safe it is a pretty big size, anyway I have the code for the electronic key pad, but I can’t get the red light to come on it , i put new batteries 9 volts but noyhing it has been in the basement for years and I know its full of guns and I need the paperworik that is in it.
any help would be appreciated
I just brought a sentry safe model:dsw3607 from costco. The reviewer seems very knowledgable in digital lock. I like to know how secure this brand’s digital lock. If it is easy to be “manipulated”, I may return it and get a combination kind. Please reply to my email if it is not proper to comment on other product in public.
Thanks!
I wonder if R.F.I.D. safe locks are on the horizon? Just wave your RFID wand at the safe and it opens. I buy my gas this way and have the RFID connected to my credit card (Exxon speed pass). No going inside to pay, just wave the wand on my keyring at the pump and it lights up and charges my credit card. Would it be feasible to just place an RFID wand on the safe lock and have it read your unique code and open?
Live and learn – I NOW do NOT lock my wallet and car keys in my safe. The electronics have failed twice (module inside the safe). I was fortunate enough to get the safe open without drilling – contacted the company and their records were current enough AND I found the ONLY tech that knew how to use the info.
DEFINITELY test the safe with the door OPEN, AND record your combo, BEFORE closing the door the first time.
NOTE: If you put your combo number in the safe, or somewhere that is only accessible using something inside the safe (like a safe deposit box key or a car key), and then you can’t get inside because there is a problem, you bought your own grief. Finding a good place (or places) to hide the number is not that hard.
While it may seem extreme to not keep your car keys and wallet in the safe, think about getting hold of the safe company on a holiday weekend – and reaching someone that actually has the tech skill and access to get the back up info and tell you how to use that info. Not getting to work, not catching your flight, not having your wallet for cash and credit cards… Do NOT keep them in your safe!
Remember to test the safe multiple times when it’s EMPTY, before you fill it.
I had a Redhead electronic locking safe (made by Granite/Winchester).
The circuit board of the lock fried, and I was locked out for months. Until I wrote on Basspro’s wall a couple time and thousands of people saw me not recommend them because no one would help, I couldn’t get anyone to care about my issue.
Had to borrow guns for deer season, didn’t have my pistol for protection, etc. Really ruined my view on electronic locks.
Knowing how digital electronics work and the care (read “lack of”) with which they are designed and assembled, an electronic lock is the last thing I want on anything I need to secure.
The problem with electronics is they are so much more of a crap shoot for longevity than mechanical. As the man said it is not a matter of if but when it is going to break. Go with a dial lock and never look back. If you can’t dial a lock open in less than a minute maybe you should practice more. Also I read no mention of EMPs taking out digital safe locks. Something a mech lock will never even know happened.
Nice to know that my instincts about elec locks are working. Been thinking about another safe. I have a Browning dial version that has served me well for about 25yrs now. Looking at them with the elec locks on them made the sixth sense say noooooooo!!!!!