Tech Tip: Coping with Corrosive Ammo
Scary stuff — AK-74 after firing corrosive ammo and not being cleaned for a week.
Image courtesy ADCOFirearms.com.
No doubt you’ve heard the term “corrosive” used with respect to ammunition. But what exactly is “corrosive ammunition” (and how does it different from non-corrosive ammo)? What is the chemistry that leads to corrosion, and what cleaning procedures should you follow if you shoot corrosive ammunition? Brownells has come up with answers to these and other questions in a helpful TECH TIP video about corrosive ammo.
In this informative video, Brownells gun tech Steve Ostrem explains the primer-related chemistry that makes some ammo corrosive. The video then reviews suggested cleaning procedures you should follow after you have fired corrosive ammo through any firearms.
What Is “Corrosive” Ammunition?
What makes ammo “corrosive”? Generally speaking, primers are the problem. When corrosive ammunition is fired, the ignited primers leave a residue of corrosive salts. Typically these primers contain potassium chlorate, or sodium petrochlorate which, when burned, change into potassium chloride or sodium chloride. Sodium chloride is also known as common table salt.Potassium chloride and sodium chloride are both very hygroscopic (i.e. they attract water). Because of that, these alkalis are rust generators. When exposed to the hydrogen and oxygen in the air (and moisture) potassium chloride and sodium chloride can form an acid that quickly causes metal rifle parts to rust and pit.
Given a choice, you may wish to avoid corrosive ammo altogether. However, for some types of fire-arms, particularly older military-style rifles, the most affordable ammunition may be corrosive. If you choose to use corrosive ammo, it is important to clean the gun thoroughly after use. After firing, you want to use an element that will neutralize the primer salts. Brownells suggests a water soak (see video above). Alternatively, Windex with ammonia can help neutralize the salts, but that doesn’t finish the job. After the salts have been neutralized and flushed away, basic anti-corrosion protectant (such as Eezox or other gun oil) should be applied to all metal parts.
This video ahows the effects of Corrosive Ammo after one month without cleaning:
To learn more about the proper procedures for cleaning rifles exposed to corrosive ammo, we suggest an article by Paul Markel on Ammoland.com. Markel, host of the popular Student of the Gun TV series, states that: “Windex (with ammonia) is the Corrosive Ammo shooter’s best friend. After you are done shooting your corrosive ammunition for the day, squirt the window cleaner liberally from the chamber down the barrel. Pull the bolt / bolt carrier / op rod if there is one and douse them as well. A couple of old cotton t-shirts will come in handy. A cotton barrel swab is a nice accessory but you can make do with patches. Some folks will rinse all of the ammonia and loosened corrosive salts off with hot water. Others prefer to wipe it all down and let the ammonia evaporate. Either way, once the corrosive salts have been tackled with the window cleaner, it is time for an all-purpose brush (old toothbrush) and some gun oil.” READ Full Article by Paul Markel.
Video Tip from EdLongrange. We welcome reader submissions.Similar Posts:
- Corrosive Ammunition — How To Protect Your Firearms
- Shooting Corrosive Ammo? Learn How to Protect Your Guns
- New, Highly Effective Bore Cleaner from Barrett
- Tech Tip: Don’t Store Brass and Ammo Near Ammonia Solvents
- New Tactical Advantage Cleaner from the Makers of Wipe-Out
Tags: Brownells, Corrosion, corrosive ammo, Corrosive Primers, Paul Markel, Windex
That image of the AK74 bolt assembly after shooting corrosive ammo is terrible. I won’t let that happen to my gun that is why I always make sure I have gun maintenance periodically.
Its pretty easy when you just stay away from junk ammo.
GO TO YOUR SURPLUS STORE AND GET SOME G.I. BORE CLEANER.IT IS CHEAP AND IT WORKS!!! NEIL
No good reason to use the junk in the first place.
Those of us who grew up with the .303 Brit cartridge take PROPER gun care in our stride.
The old military ammo with the big copper primer cup was invariably CORROSIVE and the mercury wrecked the brass. In a climate like Florida or the eastern seaboard of Australia, ONE night without proper cleaning will result in bores taking on a brown and crunchy appearance.
NOTE: Even hard-chromed bores are NOT immune, just a bit more resistant. ONE micro-fracture in the chrome skin and the corrosive salts will start doing their thing, UNDER the chrome. Once it starts on the steel substrate, you will quickly see chrome starting to flake off.
It was normal practice, at least by those who wanted their expensive machinery to last, to use BOILING or very hot water as a bore cleaner. There were suppliers of nifty funnels that ran a fair way into the chamber and had an “anti-splash” shroud at the top of the funnel to keep water out of the woodwork. Keep pouring the water through until it runs clear and you should have removed all of the soluble salts (Chlorides) that eat your barrels. The heat transferred to the barrel steel will help dry it out pretty much before you can run a dry patch through.
In a real military situation, rifles were cleaned and oiled as soon as possible after firing and then re-cleaned several times over the next week. Military “gun oils” are often a much more complex brew than sewing-machine oil.
This water and oil regime works well on AKs and SKS’s firing any ammo. DO NOT neglect all of the components in the gas system; piston, spring, cylinder, regulator, etc. At the very least, hose out the bore and ALL working parts with one of the good commercial corrosion-inhibiting “oils”, before packing the gun away for travel home. As soon as possible after arriving home, strip and thoroughly clean and put away in the usual secure place, away from temperature changes.
“Windex” and similar products are to be used only as a last resort and then only until PROPER cleaning materials are available.
Simple rule: Treat ALL ammo as corrosive, clean with that in mind and your guns will last a LOT longer. Good cleaning gear and timely use thereof, is a LOT cheaper than re-barrelling or rebuilding a rifle.
In reference to the “JUNK” ammo ; I assume you are referring to the Mil-surp , or military surplus ammo designed for these weapons. Junk ? Not hardly. It just requires a different cleaning regimen than we are used to. Some of us are old enough to remember when mercury fulminate was used in primers in this country, and a more extensive cleaning practice was also in play. But the Comm-bloc mil-surp is a long way from being “JUNK”. Just clean properly when finished firing.
I shoot tons of corrosive 7.62×39 in both my SKS’s.
The most accurate surplus stuff I have is from China made in 1972-1973.
So I’ve learned the best, simplest and effortless way to clean the rifle and stop the corrosion.
After I’m done shooting the corrosive stuff I load shoot 20 rounds of non-corrosive ammo very fast.
This is the only way to get all the corrosive-ness out. I’ve tried everything over the years and shooting 20 rounds of non-corrosive ammo really fast is the only way that actually works 100%. And shooting as fast as possible is fun too.