Tips for Using LEE Collet Dies
For those who prefer to neck-size their brass (rather than full-length-size), the LEE Collet Die is a popular, inexpensive option. It works by having collet tangs or “fingers” press the neck against a central mandrel. The benefit is that you get a very straight neck, which is sized consistently from top to bottom. Canadian shooter Jerry Teo explains: “LEE Collet Dies produce sized cases with very low runout (measured runout is under .001″ using a Sinclair concentricity gauge). You also don’t get the build-up of brass at the base of the neck, as can happen with bushing neck dies. The neck-shoulder junction stays nice and crisp.”
TIP ONE — Adjusting Tension
LEE Collet dies don’t have a specific mechanical adjustment for neck tension. But you CAN easily modify the die to provide more or less tension. If you want to adjust the neck tension using a Lee Collet die, you can simply chuck the mandrel in a drill and reduce the diameter with some sand-paper (to increase neck tension) or you can order a mandrel the next caliber larger and turn it to whatever diameter you want (the larger the mandrel diameter, the less the neck tension). You can also order custom mandrels from Lee sized to any diameter you want.
Lee also offers Custom Collet Dies, made from two fired cases. Lee offers custom standard collet dies for $78.00 and custom large collet dies for $160.00. CLICK HERE to ORDER.
TIP TWO — Polish and Tune for Easy Case Removal
Some users have complained that their Collet Dies grab the case-neck too firmly, making the case hard to remove. There are solutions to this problem. First inspect the collet fingers and smooth the inner surface up a bit with polishing compound or an extra-fine sanding pad. Second, you can open up the fingers a little bit. LEE recommends that if your Collet Die is sticking, take a steel punch and tap the fingers apart a little bit so that the natural “unloaded” position is wider. Lastly, you should lightly lubricate the outside of the collet fingers (see arrows) before you re-assemble the die. This will ensure they slide smoothly. Also, to prevent the collet fingers from closing too tight, never load up the die with your press without putting a case in place first. Without a case neck between the collet fingers and the mandrel, the collet can clamp itself too tight as you raise the ram.
TIP THREE — Size Twice and Spin Your Case 1/8th Turn
After reaching fully “down” on your press handle, withdraw the case about an inch and manually rotate it about 1/8th (NOT 1/4 or 1/2) turn while still in the shell-holder, then size again. This will place the die’s collet petals on the four “high spots” of the case neck and will result in a rounder, more evenly-sized neck with slightly more bullet tension. This takes only about one second more per case and is well worth the slight extra effort. (We thank reader Stonecreek for this smart tip).
Similar Posts:
- How to Neck-Size Cases with LEE Collet Die
- Smart Tips for Neck-Sizing Cartridge Brass Using LEE Collet Dies
- Tips for Using Lee Collet Dies for Neck-Sizing Brass
- Smart Reloading — Use Expander Mandrels with New Brass
- Reloading Tip: Use Expander Mandrels with New Brass
Tags: Collet Die, Lee Precision, Mandrel, Run-Out
Lee will make custom collet dies for a very reasonable fee. Here’s the link: http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1198957415.1239=/html/catalog/custom.html#CUSTOMCOLLET
With all the good things about Lee dies, sure wish they would give up on their “lock-ring” design.Actually: non-lock-ring since a rubber o-ring will not hold any adjustment. I throw them in the garbage can & replace with Forster split rings.
Actually, if you follow the instructions and turn the nut and not the die when screwing them into the press, the Lee lock rings work just fine.
For unturned necks, I believe that Collet dies produce the most concentric ammunition of any neck sizing process, particularly if the rifle has a SAAMI (standard factory) chamber. If you need to FL size, the case can be neck sized with a Collet die, and then sized with a body die, set for the appropriate shoulder bump. That combination, in that order, will produce very straight ammo, probably the best that can be produced for factory chambers with unturned brass. Collet dies work differently than any other die, so there may be a short learning curve. Just remember not to operate them without a case in place, and that some resistance needs to be felt at the top of the press ram stroke for sizing to be accomplished. A friend, who didn’t read the directions, once complained that the die wasn’t doing anything. He didn’t have is adjusted properly. If you are using a Collet die for the first time, I think that it is a very good idea to take it apart, to become familiar with how it works, and to see if there is any roughness that needs to be dealt with.
Actually I have found that the Lee lock rings allow the die to float a bit and align better with the ram and shell holder than rigid rings do. I get better results by putting Lee lock rings on other die types.
I find that the collet die does not work well right out of the box. Most of the machine work is sub par and requires fine tuning to work correctly. After a couple of hours with 1600 grit Emory cloth, everything is nice and smooth and working properly. The mandrel does not provide sufficient tension on the bullet to feed from some magazines. Rounds loaded with this die should be single fed to reduce the risk of shoving the projectile deeper into the case than was intended. All in all it is a well designed product, but falls well short of the production quality of other die manufacturers. But what do you expect from a 20$ die? We all know Lee is bargain basement stuff. So a little tweeting is to be expected.
I use both Redding and Lee, It just depends on what rifle I am loading for, Hunting loads for a rifle with SAAMI chamber I load using the Lee, Custom chamber on my bench gun I use the Redding.
I will say Lee gives me the truest loads without turning the necks and in a standard Factory chamber you need all the meat you can get.
Jim
Can you imagine if Lee upped the quality on these so they don’t need to be tinkered with at all
Ive had good luck and very little runout with the collect die right out of the box. Use a redding bump die every three loading’s and away we go.
Collet dies rocks especially for the likes of .303 Brit where chambers are generous on a good day. Geoffrey (above) is right about the custom service. A few years ago Lee made me a custom set for my .303 Pygmy (.303×1.5) for USD55.00. How cheap is that!?
Mitch, I have used the lee collet die for a very long time in every chambering I can find for my rifles.
I have used it to make ammo for m305’s which are the same as your M1A’s and AR15’s.
They provide more then enough neck tension for mag fed ammo. now if your rifles have a feeding issue, I cannot say.
Annealing brass will help a lot as brass works hardens and you may be using overly hard brass????
I have never had to fix anything on the Lee die out of the box. I have blown the top off a few dies but Lee replaces those die tops.
These SHOULD be made from steel and problem would be resolved but maybe that is their escape valve so done on purpose????
by adjusting the mandrel diameter, you can also control neck tension. so much performance for so little money
YMMV
Jerry
I use the LEE collet die and the reddding bump die for my unturned lapua palma brass with excellent results. Very little run-out in the loaded rounds when run over the sinclair gauge.
One thing to note is you cant use this die with Lapua Palma brass (small primmer) unless you turn down or remove the recapping pin. The flashhole on this brass is .059, the Lee recapping pin cant be replaced and the shaft its connected to cant be moved up out of the way as its needed to size the neck so turn down or cut off is the only way.
“”decapping””
One more tip: After reaching fully “down” on your press handle withdraw the case about an inch and manually rotate it about 1/8th (NOT 1/4 or 1/2) turn while still in the shellholder, then size again. This will place the collet petals on the 4 “high spots” of the case neck and will result in a rounder, more evenly sized neck with slightly more bullet tension.
This takes only about one second more per case and is well worth the slight extra effort.
BTW, old post I know – Lee still makes custom collet dies, with two fired cases. And they have ‘standard’ $78.00 and ‘large’ – $160.00
Link should be updated up top. Current link:
https://leeprecision.com/custom-services/custom-rifle-and-handgun-reloading-die-sets/
Recently took advantage of the Lee custom services for my RPR in 6 Creedmoor. Sent in 2 fired cases and a Hornady 108gr ELD-M and got a note back asking if Lee could hang onto the brass/bullet to possibly make this a standard offering. YES PLEASE! Loading up now to have my first match after getting the neck sizing die, but I feel it is a great complement to my Forster benchrest full size/ seating die pair and Redding body bump die. I have the Lee collet does for just about everything I reload.
To adjust neck tension simply move the die up or down.
when using the Lee f/l resizing collet die for the first time the decapping rod stuck inside the case. Had to cut the case in half to remove the rod. What did I do wrong. The collet already came from factory locked on the rod. Hopefully you can help me with this. Thx
I read on your forum from a guy named Valentine who said use a flat washer over the brass to prevent the case head from making contact with the mandrel. I contacted Lee and told them this. The rep admitted it’s a mandrel length dimension issue. The washer works and I told the Lee rep about it and he was a little surprised but then I heard crickets. So another guy from another forum said put a spacer under the cap, so I put it between the mandrel and the collet sleeve. That beats having to remove the or work around the brass all the time.
I noticed recently there’s a code at the base of the collets F3, B6 etc…. different grades of tool steel. One is just soft carbon steel, other are tool steel. Looks like they are experimenting with steel that springs back better. As someone mentioned before here to anneal, it needs to be done, yes… however, I believe the spring back isn’t the best on these collets. When the collet drops in and out of the die body very easily it’s time to spread out the collet with a screw driver as per Lee.
Codes are date of manufacture via Lee website