Build a Simple, Portable PVC Target Stand
One of the easiest ways to build a portable target stand is to use PVC pipe and connectors. Utah .308 Shooter “Cheese” has created a simple yet sturdy target frame, and he’s shared his design so you can build a similar frame easily and at low cost. The components are wood furring strips, 2″-diameter PVC pipes (and connections), and a 2’x3′ sheet of cardboard. The PVC base can be glued together, or, for easier transport and storage, you can leave some or all of the connections free. “Cheese” tells us: “I didn’t glue any of it together so I could disassemble it, shove it in a bag and take it anywhere.”
“All the parts are just pushed together and not glued. That way I can break it down and carry it all in a bag. Also, if a buddy (not me!) happens to shoot the stand, I can easily replace just the damaged piece. The last 6 inches of the furring strips are wittled-down a bit so they can be pushed into the upright pipes with a little friction. The cardboard is 2 x 3 feet, and I use a staple gun to attach it to the furring strips. Then I just staple the target onto the cardboard and go at it.
Of course you can modify the dimensions as desired. I chose the black ABS pipe over white PVC simply for cost — black ABS is a little cheaper. You can also glue some or all of the parts together, it’ll just be larger for transporting. In windy conditions, the thing likes to come apart. Duct tape might work well. For weight, I thought about filling the two end pipes with sand and gluing test caps on each of their ends. The test caps still allow the pipes to slip into the elbows.”
Add Anchors or Internal Weight for Stability
On a very windy day, a PVC stand can shake or even topple over. There are a couple solutions to this. Some people fill the PVC pipe sections with sand to add weight, or you can put short sections of Re-BAR inside the long legs. One GlockTalk forum member noted: “I built [a frame] almost identical to this. I also take four pieces of wire coathanger bent into an inverted “U” shape to anchor the frame to the ground. It is so light that wind will knock the stand over [without anchors].”
Assembly Diagram with Dimensions
The photo below shows all the components of the base, with dimensions. The overall maximum assembled dimensions are roughly 26″ wide, 41″ deep, and 66″ tall (the cardboard is 2 x 3 ft).
You can find photos of a similar home-made PVC target stand (with a slightly different rear section) on the Box of Truth website. This also employs a PVC tubing base with wood uprights. We’ve also seen all-PVC target stands, but we’ve found that it is easier to attach the cardboard to wood strips than to PVC pipe. Also, if the upper section is wood, you can fit different height targets, while using the same base.
Similar Posts:
- How to Make an Inexpensive, Portable PVC (or ABS) Target Stand
- Build Your Own Target Stand with Inexpensive PVC or ABS Pipe
- Build Your Own Target Stand with Low-Cost ABS or PVC Pipe
- Do-It-Yourself Target Stand — Make it with PVC or ABS Pipe
- Craft Your Own Target Stand with Low-Cost PVC or ABS Pipe
Tags: PVC, Target, Wood Working
For “those buddies of yours that are the wild shooters”, wrap the pvc in duct tape and it will stand up to a few more abusive shots.
i did the just about the same but i used pvc all the way around instead of pushing wood into the pipes. i also tied thin rope around the top and anchored them n the ground with tent stakes so it wont blow over….
I made a similar stand but, I made my up right posts longer and cut a 3/8 inch groove with a dado blade veritically. The backer board slips into the grooves. The distance between the posts was designed to make use of the standard size of political and real estate signs, which are plentiful. I also don’t glue all of the parts so that it will break down for storage and transport. Cost of materials is about $10
¡Excellent idea!. Thank you.
This is awesome! Our women’s shooting group is going to build some of these at our next meeting!
I have made several different versions of these PVC type frames. I cement all of the bottom sections togther. I glue a female adapter for the uprights to attach to. This way it does break down some, but not all the way. The advantage is that you can transport it to the range in a fairly small lightweight package. Once there, if it is windy, I fill the bottom section, which is sealed, with water for weight. This holds it down nicely in all but the strongest wind. Then when you are done, you can break it down, dump the water and have a light weight frame to transport back home.
I built mine to this target stand specs, except using 1″ pvc pipe, and added a crossbar at the top of the 24″ upright pipes to give additional support for the 24″ X 36″ target. Even on some fairly windy days I have not had any tip over as yet. Using a 2 to 3 pound sand bag on front and back should solve any tip overs.
Great plan.. used (3) 1/2″x36″ rebar in each of the long ends for weight and kept the uprights unglued for easy transport. Home depot had the wood for 5c in their scrap bin and was out a total of $16 for all the materials…
I used 2
I used 2” ABS pipe instead of 1-1/2” allowing the use 2 x 2’s instead of furring strips for the upright posts. The 2 x 2’s fit nicely into the 2” ABS Upright Pipes. Cut the 2 x 2’s 71” long, and the overall height of the assembled stand will be 73-1/2”. Using 2” ABS, the End Legs should be 18” long (instead of 20” shown in the original plan). The cardboard needs to be
24” x 45” for use with the B-27 target.
Great, easy to read instructions. Thank you. Another idea for anchoring the stand is to drill 2 holes through each end leg piece and use 4 tent stakes, if placing on dirt or grass.
Thank’s for the instructions guys! I haven’t bought the pieces or built it yet, but I plan on doing it on my next paycheck. I recently bought a Glock 22 and decided that I wanted something other then cans and pieces of loose wood to do target practice with. I can’t wait to make this.
What is the purpose of the end legs? They don’t seem to add anything to the design.
I bought 2″ sch 40 PVC instead and will do a cross member on uprights, under the thin sheet of half plywood i bought instead of cardboard, with tees. I haven’t decided whether to stake base or use water for weight but will probably glue the base as one sheet and the vertical section as another. That way they both lay flat in my truck bed. Probably will frame in the 2″x 2″ with top and bottom so the wood wont slide or want to slide all the way to the bottom and soak in the water. Its sturdy then enough to anchor with rope over top as well or if want to stake may make steel U shape stakes to go in the ground. Yes I’m an engineer type guy.
At Lowe’s or Home Depot, I found that white PVC was cheapest and it cam in 10′ (120″) lengths. Also, if all the pieces are the same length it is easier to assemble and still works great. You need 8 pieces per stand. So if each piece is 20″ long, for three stands you need exactly 4 of the 10′ pipes: 8 x 20 x 3 = 480 / 120 = 4. With the T, elbow, and wood, cost for each stand was under $18 in spring of 2012.
We manufacture an affordable target stand with a similar design that is made of a wood-plastic composite material. This material holds up much better than PVC or ABS, it’s also solid rather than pipe. The base weighs 10 pounds (or 12.5 pounds for the larger stand) so that it doesn’t need to be staked under most conditions. Works with cardboard or corrugated-plastic backers that just clamp on so that a staple gun is not required (clamps are made of PVC but we send you extra in case you hit them).
I am making this same stand, using the black 2″ ABS for my upright pieces and a 10′ stick of 2″ plastic conduit for the frame. The 10′ piece of conduit was cheaper than the ABS and with the same exact outside diameter (conduit and ABS), all of the ABS fittings work just fine…the 90 deg. elbows and the T fittings. I am probably going to glue all of the frame pieces, but leave the uprights unglued for easier storage. I like the idea of filling the frame with water if it is windy outside. I will probably also put a bolt through the uprights, so that the wood doesn’t have to go all the way to the bottom.
I am using much similar PRODUCTS, I thank you for the detailed information about this.
Regards,
Shandgroup
PVC Pipes & Fittings Manufacturer
Great plan.. used (3) 1/2″x36″ Big thanks for this instruction and greetz from Germany
The longer leg (base) pieces outside of the elbows and tees I sprayed a small shot of Great Stuff expandable foam in one end and let it set up/harden. Then I filled up each pipe with sand, leaving about 2-3 inches unfilled at the top of each and then capped it off with Great Stuff again. I let that expand and then sawed the excess off flush with the end of the pvc pipe and now my long base pieces are weighted. A piece of sound board (aka FiberBoard or HushBoard from your local builder’s outlet)screwed to the 1x holds up well and gives you the option of stapling, using tacks or adhesive targets. Works like a charm. Thanks all.
I made two modifications to this stand. I lengthened the end-legs by 3″in and shortened the side-legs by 4″in and the uprights to just 14″in. I inserted eight 1/2″in x 20″in long pieces of re-bar in the end legs and then glued them together minus the “T” connectors. I ended up with two pairs of “U’s” then I mixed concrete to a slushy milk shake consistency and poured it into the two “U’s” until the cement was 3″in or so from either end. I let them dry and then glues the “T” connectors. The uprights i didnt glue in. for easy removal. the base very solid, and nice weight to them. will not blow over yet light enough that my teenage daughter can lift them no problem. she say’s they’re heavy but ok. makes two target stands. nice!
Great stand. Cheap and portable. Beats spending all that money for heavy bulky stands that are hard to carry in the car. Thanks!
A couple of sandbags laid across the bottom of the stand will hold it down nicely.
I’ve made several sets of these and given away to family members. IF you make the uprights shorter you can fold them flat. ALSO…I drilled a 3/8’s hole in the front and back pieces to drive a spike, available at local lumber yards. though into the ground to secure the stand on windy days. This design wastes LOTS of PVC…they can be made with much less. The end pieces I glued to the elbows…the sides , with the uprights are NOT glued so they can be folded in flat. NOTHING TO TAKE APART…IT ALL FOLDS FLAT…just saying!
I’ve made a couple of these and they work great. I glued the base all together on mine and it still fits in the trunk. Also cut up some 20″ pieces of re-bar, inserted them into the end leg pipes, then trapped them in place by gluing on the elbows. Still pretty light and doesn’t blow over in the wind.