Muzzle Brake Performance Tests by Bertalotto
Muzzle brakes are controversial. Some people swear by them, while others swear at them. Still, there’s no question that a good brake can reduce felt recoil up to 45%. And likewise, the best brakes, when installed properly, seem to have no negative effect on accuracy.
Roy Bertalotto has done considerable experimentation with muzzle brakes, testing dozens of brake designs on his own rifles over the past few years. Roy’s article, Adventures with Muzzle Brakes, discusses various aspects of muzzle brake design and performance. Roy doesn’t claim that his testing is definitive, but his article is definitely worth a read. Here are some of Roy’s interesting findings:
Exit Hole Diameter
“Best accuracy and effectiveness of the brake was obtained with a hole .020″ over bullet diameter. If the exit hole is too small, such as +.005″ over bullet diameter, accuracy suffers. If the depth of the exit hole is too shallow, the metal around the hole will erode very quickly.”
Hole Placement
“The most effective braking was with a brake 1″ in diameter with a 3/4″ exit hole on each side, just in front of the muzzle. The bullet passes through a cone of 35 degrees before it exits the brake. (Like the tank example), Incredible reduction of recoil. But loud and ugly. Very easy to make since you don’t need a spin fixture or a dividing head.”
Bottom Gas Venting Helps Accuracy
“In my tests, not having holes all around the brake effects accuracy a bit. I believe it does something to the bullet by the air pushed ahead of the bullet creating unequal turbulence in the bullet path. I’ve tried a few brakes where I drilled only holes on the top, test fired, and then completed holes on the bottom and in every case, accuracy improved.” Below are spiral-ported brakes crafted by Clay Spencer.
Brakes Work Best with High-Pressure Cartridges
“The higher the pressure of the particular round, the more effective the brake. I have over 20 rifles with brakes. The 220 Swift is the king of reduction. Followed very closely by the 25-06, 6mm Remington, any Weatherby small bore. With a proper brake and a hot handload under a 40 gr bullet, the Swift will move 1/2″ to the rear and 0 muzzle rise! Big boomers with low pressure like 45-70s and shot guns benefit the least.” [Editor’s Note: Roy is judging effectiveness by the percentage of recoil reduction rather than absolute levels of recoil. Obviously if you start with a heavier-recoiling round, the absolute amount of recoil energy reduction is greater. Roy is really talking about efficiency–brakes are most efficient when used with high-pressure cartridges.]
Installation is Key to Accuracy
Roy’s findings are fascinating and suggest that further study of muzzle brakes is warranted. But we can all agree that precision installation of the brake is essential for accuracy. A poorly-installed, mis-aligned brake will degrade accuracy, that is well-known.
Harrell’s Precision has made thousands of muzzle brakes, in many styles and port arrangements. The Harrell brothers offer some good advice for gunsmiths installing brakes: “Muzzle brakes aren’t magic, they reduce recoil by redirecting exiting gas. What’s important is that they are straight and the threads are perpendicular with the base. The only way to get the base and threads perpendicular is to thread, not tap, them on a lathe.”
Similar Posts:
- Muzzle Brakes — Bertalotto Tests Various Designs
- TECH TIP: Optimizing Muzzle Brake Accuracy and Effectiveness
- Muzzle Brakes–Bertalotto's Test Results
- The Mother of All Muzzle Brake Tests — PRB’s Epic Research
- Muzzle Brake Comparison Test by Precision Rifle Blog
Tags: Bertalotto, Brake, Harrell's, Muzzle, Muzzle Brake, Recoil, Recoil Reduction, Vais
It’s been my (admittedly limited) experience with muzzle brakes that, what comfort you gain in reduced recoil, you lose to increased muzzle blast.
I had a brake installed on my Ruger M77 .270 and it deffinately reduced the recoil but the muzzle blast is now so fierce that I would not even consider shooting it without ear plugs. That is going to make hunting with it difficult. I will end up taking it off.
I agree with Dwight and on Safari you might loose your hearing too. Not a good thing when hunting Leopard, Buff or Lion!(LOL)But on a range it is great.
I have had fairly estensive experience with two big game hunting rifles. Both were using “I think” KDF brakes installed by Bob Sutton about 15-20 years ago. Both were Rem 700’s with factory stocks and Pachmayer Decellator recoil pads. The first was chambered in 340 Wby. It hurt like heck to shoot, so I had Bob install the brake and it was much easier to shoot. The second and my favorite is a “Safari Grade” Rem in .416 Mag. and it’s tolerable to shoot. I’m not saying they don’t kick, but the brake is worth having. Noise for me is a non issue! If I’m at the range I always have hearing protection and in the field I don’t need it unless I’m shooting a lot of rounds, which is something I don’t often do. I think muzzle blast isn’t a big deal for the shooter as it is for others standing or sitting near me. This is only my opinion, but I think they are great!
Bob
Muzzle brakes a great for the shooter, especially when shooting off the bench or prone, but definitely not so swell for anyone nearby. I had a Vais installed on 333 Barnes Supreme (fairly stout recoil) a few years ago and it makes a huge difference in comfort and enjoyment when shooting. And since it doesn’t affect accuracy or point of impact, I don’t hunt with it (since you generally don’t even notice recoil when shooting at game), which helps when you’re out without hearing protection.
Muzzle brakes – avoid them if you can! Get a suppressor (if legal) and enjoy the best of both worlds!
The muzzle break on my .284 Shehane reduces the recoil to less that my 6 Dasher. I like them!
I’ve also found that discharge holes around the entire circumference ( have 2 now)did not effect accuracy on a Krieger barreled 308. Same for a Tikka 308.
However with the 3 port, side discharge that I tried on the same Krieger 308, and with identical ammo,it will not shoot! Always had persistant vertical stringing.
When describing best results with ‘High-Pressure Cartridges’, I’m sure he mean’t ‘High muzzle pressure’ loads(not cartridges). Big difference.
A competitively loaded 6PPC is a hi-pressure cartridge(way moreso than big boomers), but it presents low muzzle pressures, and would not benefit from a brake.
In-line with this, ANY cartridge with a barrel too short for capacity would be more affected by braking.