Range Tip: How to Avoid Blasting Your Chronograph
There is nothing more frustrating (or embarassing) than sending a live round into your expensive new chronograph. As the photo below demonstrates, with most types of chronographs (other than the barrel-hung Magnetospeed), you can fatally injure your expensive chrono if it is not positioned precisely.
When setting up a chrono, we always unload the rifle, remove the bolt and bore-sight to ensure that the path of the bullet is not too low. When bore-sighting visually, set up the rifle securely on the sandbags and look through the bore, breech to muzzle, lining up the barrel with your aim point on the target. Then (during an appropriate cease-fire), walk behind the chronograph. Looking straight back through the “V” formed by the sky-screens, you should be able to see light at the end of the barrel if the gun is positioned correctly. You can also use an in-chamber, laser bore-sighter to confirm the visual boresighting (see photo).
Adjust the height, angle and horizontal position of the chronograph so the bullet will pass through the middle of the “V” below the plastic diffusers, no less than 5″ above the light sensors. We put tape on the front sky-screen supports to make it easier to determine the right height over the light sensors.
Use a Test Backer to Confirm Your Bullet Trajectory
You can put tape on the support rods about 6″ up from the unit. This helps you judge the correct vertical height when setting up your rifle on the bags. Another trick is to hang a sheet of paper from the rear skyscreen and then use a laser boresighter to shine a dot on the paper (with the gun planted steady front and rear). This should give you a good idea (within an inch or so) of the bullet’s actual flight path through the “V” over the light sensors. Of course, when using a laser, never look directly at the laser! Instead shine the laser away from you and see where it appears on the paper.
Alignment of Chronograph Housing
Make sure the chrono housing is parallel to the path of the bullet. Don’t worry if the unit is not parallel to the ground surface. What you want is the bullet to pass over both front and rear sensors at the same height. Don’t try to set the chrono height in reference to the lens of your scope–as it sits 1″ to 2″ above your bore axis. To avoid muzzle blast interference, set your chronograph at least 10 feet from the end of the muzzle (or the distance recommended by the manufacturer).
Rifles with Elevated Iron Sights
All too often rookie AR15 shooters forget that AR sights are positioned roughly 2.4″ above the bore axis (at the top of the front sight blade). If you set your bullet pass-through point using your AR’s front sight, the bullet will actually be traveling 2.4″ lower as it goes through the chrono. That’s why we recommend bore-sighting and setting the bullet travel point about 5-8″ above the base of the sky-screen support shafts. (Or the vertical distance the chronograph maker otherwise recommends). NOTE: You can make the same mistake on a scoped rifle if the scope is set on very tall rings, so the center of the cross-hairs is much higher than the bore axis line.
TARGET AIM POINT: When doing chrono work, we suggest you shoot at a single aiming point no more than 2″ in diameter (on your target paper). Use that aiming point when aligning your chrono with your rifle’s bore. If you use a 2″ bright orange dot, you should be able to see that through the bore at 100 yards. Using a single 2″ target reduces the chance of a screen hit as you shift points of aim. If you shoot at multiple target dots, place them in a vertical line, and bore sight on the lowest dot. Always set your chron height to set safe clearance for the LOWEST target dot, and then work upwards only.
Other Chronograph Tips from Forum Members:
When using a chronograph, I put a strip of masking tape across the far end of the skyscreens about two-thirds of the way up. This gives me a good aiming or bore-sighting reference that’s well away from the pricey bits. I learned that one the hard way. — German Salazar
A very easy and simple tool to help you set up the chronograph is a simple piece of string! Set your gun (unloaded of course) on the rest and sight your target. Tie one end of the string to the rear scope ring or mount, then pull the string along the barrel to simulate the bullet path. With the string showing the bullet’s path, you can then easily set the chronograph’s placement left/right, and up/down. This will also let you set the chrono’s tilt angle and orientation so the sensors are correctly aligned with the bullet path. — Wayne Shaw
If shooting over a chrono from the prone position off a bipod or similar, beware of the muzzle sinking as recoil causes the front of the rifle to drop. I “killed” my first chronograph shooting off a gravel covered firing point where I’d not given enough clearance to start with and an inch or two drop in the muzzle caused a bullet to clip the housing. — Laurie Holland
Similar Posts:
- Setting up your Chronograph–Remember It’s a Tool, Not a Target
- How NOT to Ventilate Your Chronograph — Set-Up Tips
- Don’t Kill the Chrono! Setting up Chronos to Avoid Stray Shots
- How NOT to Ventilate Your Costly Chronograph — Set-UP Tips
- Chrono No-Nos: Remember this Device is a Tool, Not a Target
Tags: Bore-Sghter, Bore-sighting, Chrono, Chrony, PVM-21
For rifle work, Magnetospeed is totally the way to go. Mine is easy to set up, never misses a shot, and is totally insensitive to lighting conditions. (Shadows or direct sun can cause many missed shots on optical chronographs.)
Plus, if you shoot on a public range, you don’t need a ceasefire to set it up or adjust it. It is SWEET!
The light chronograph is like our old vhs its been surpassed by better technology. Magnetospeed is the way to go, but you have to admit that it change the POI. So you can’t check your speed and shoot for accuracy at the same time.Any news on the new LABRADAR? would like to see a review of that!.
Mike
Editor: Mike, we have asked the makers of Labradar to loan us a unit for testing, but they have declined to respond so far. Maybe it’s not quite ready for the market. Re the Magnetospeed, we tested the Gen 1 version. The Gen 3 version was recently released with welcome improvements. We like the Magnetospeed but we generally test with an Oehler or PVM-21 in place as well, so we have two and often three readings for each shot. We have seen some things that make us scratch our head about the Gen 1 Magnetospeed. It will be interesting to see how the Gen 3 units perform.
All speed measuring systems have their positive and negative points and I’ve used a few.
For light based detectors the biggest error a user can make (other than shooting the damn thing) is making sure the screens are aligned with the bullet trajectory. Any discrepancy up, down, left right, means you aren’t measuring the observed speed correctly, but a component of it.
Frankly, all commercial light based systems have base lengths (distance between screens) which are too small (they should be at least a metre for small arms) and there should be at least three sets of screens. All observing the same point in space. So, 1.5 m base length for screen set A, 1.25 for B and 1.0 m for C. C within B, and B within A, so that they all look at the same point in space.
As to the Magentospeed. It has an extremely short base length and will by subject to the same misalignment error as light screens. This causing even greater error per degree due to its short base length. As it isn’t fixed as per and muzzle brake or suppressor, there’s also the potential for gas leakage prior to bullet exit to move the sensor array. Certainly not something I would have used in my old job to measure velocity accurately, though good for triggering other things in a more robust form. Very robust versions are used on some AAA system to measure the velocity of the rounds as they are fired and pump that data back into the fire control computer.
Doppler radars are good and I’ve had some conversations with the Labradar people. The device seems to be quite a good system, though they are keeping most technical info close to their hearts. Not up to what I’ve used, but they cost tens of thousands of pounds.
Want the most accurate muzzle velocity, which is a bit of a misnomer as the projectile continues to accelerate for a few calibres out of the barrel, use an in-bore Doppler radar or laser based Doppler radar. Bit expensive though
Editor: Neil, that’s great info. And thanks for your insights on the Magnetospeed. Because the design has many advantages people may overlook some of the things you note.
There is only one way to be absolutely sure that you don’t blast your chrono.
– Borrow someone else’s.
On a more serious note, I saw a post with some recent info from LabRadar on the date and price.
http://www.65grendel.com/forum/showthread.php?8634-LabRadar-Chronograph-Update
The magneto speed attaches to the barrel like a tuner and therefore not good for load work up.
The Labradar will be great if you own range. It says it will pick up shots a few feet on either side, at a public range that means the lanes next to you get measured too.
I’ve been using a laser bore sight for years to speed up using my Millennium. Only time anything hit it was when were trying sabots in a .30-06.