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September 1st, 2022

S&W Releases New Metal-Framed M&P9 M2.0 Pistol

Smith Wesson S&W M&P 2.0 METAL 9mm luger cerakote T6 Aluminum frame

What’s old is new again. The metal-framed pistol is making a comeback. Smith & Wesson has just introduced its new M&P9 M2.0 METAL, S&W’s first full-size M&P pistol in an all-metal configuration. Built with a T6 aluminum frame finished in Tungsten Gray Cerakote, this 9mm Luger pistol includes a 4.25″ barrel, M2.0 flat face trigger, and optics-ready slide.

Why go to a metal frame? The T6 Aluminum frame is heavier than polymer. This increases the overall weight of the pistol and lowers the center of gravity considerably. The gun therefore has less perceived recoil (less “snap”) and noticeably less muzzle flip. The new M&P M2.0 METAL is listed at 30.0 oz. unloaded, while the polymer M&P M2.0 is 24.7 oz. unloaded.

New M&P9 M2.0 METAL is 43% More Expensive Than Polymer M&P9 M2.0
The new M&P9 M2.0 METAL has a $899.00 MSRP, making it 43% more expensive than the polymer-framed M&P9 M2.0 which has a $629.00 MSRP. Is the aluminum frame worth the extra money? It depends. With a lower center of gravity and more mass, the M2.0 METAL will definitely be a better “gun games” pistol. But it will also be 5.3 oz. heavier — not so great for all-day carry.

Smith Wesson S&W M&P 2.0 METAL 9mm luger cerakote T6 Aluminum frame

For persons who use their M&P mostly for target work and gun games, the heavier weight and reduced muzzle flip is a plus. Owners may also like the rigidity of the Cerakoted Aluminum frame. S&W has a new enhanced sear for this model, which delivers a “shorter take-up, and cleaner break”. That also should help action pistol competitors.

Full Compatability with Existing M&P9 Magazines and Holsters
The M&P9 M2.0 METAL will accept any M&P9 M2.0 17-round 9mm magazine and will fit any normal M&P9 fullsize compatible holster. Notable features include enhanced sear for lighter, crisper trigger break, an optics-ready slide, and new “flat face” trigger.

M&P9 M2.0 METAL FEATURES

Smith Wesson S&W M&P 2.0 METAL 9mm luger cerakote T6 Aluminum frameT6 Aluminum Frame with Tungsten Gray Cerakote® Finish
Optics-Ready pistol slide has mounting recess for red dots
Four interchangeable palmswell grip inserts: S, M, ML, L
Textured polymer front strap
Wide slide stop and reversible magazine release
M2.0 flat face trigger for consistent finger placement
Forward slide serrations and Picatinny-style frame rail
Enhanced sear for lighter, crisper trigger let-off
Fits all standard M&P9 compatible holsters
Accepts any 17-round 9mm M2.0™ magazine
Comes with two 17-round magazines.

Jerry Miculek Tests New M&P9 M2.0 Metal Pistol — Says It Shows Exceptional Accuracy

Smith Wesson S&W M&P 2.0 METAL 9mm luger cerakote T6 Aluminum frame

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September 1st, 2022

How to Prep Once-Fired Lake City 5.56 Brass for Match Use

The U.S. Army Marksmanship Unit regularly published a reloading “how-to” article on the USAMU Facebook page. One excellent “Handloading Hump Day” post covered preparation of once-fired 5.56x45mm brass. This article, the first in a 3-part series, has many useful tips. If you shoot a rifle chambered in .223 Rem or 5.56x45mm, this article is worth reading. You can obtain once-fired Lake City 5.56x45mm brass for less than half the cost of premium .223 Rem brass.

This week, Handloading Hump-Day will answer a special request from several competitive shooters who asked about procedures for morphing once-fired GI 5.56mm brass into accurate match brass for NRA High Power Rifle use. The USAMU has used virgin Lake City (LC) 5.56 brass to win National Championships and set National Records for many years. In this 3-part series, we’ll share techniques proven to wring match-winning accuracy from combat-grade brass.

GI brass has an excellent attribute, worth noting — it is virtually indestructible. Due to its NATO-spec hardness, the primer pockets last much longer than most commercial brass when using loads at appropriate pressures.

Preparing Once-Fired GI 5.56 Brass for Reloading (Part 1 of 3)

Assuming our readers will be getting brass once-fired as received from surplus dealers, the following steps can help process the low-cost raw material into reliably accurate components.

1. Clean the Brass
First, clean the brass of any dirt/mud/debris, if applicable. Depending on the brass’s condition, washing it in a soap solution followed by a thorough rinsing may help. [This step also extends the life of the tumbling media.] Approaches range from low-tech, using gallon jugs 1/2 full of water/dish soap plus brass and shaking vigorously, to more high-tech, expensive and time-consuming methods.

cleaning Lake City 5.56 brass

2. Wet-Tumbling Options (Be Sure to Dry the Brass)
When applying the final cleaning/polish, some use tumblers with liquid cleaning media and stainless steel pins for a brilliant shine inside and out, while others take the traditional vibratory tumbler/ground media approach. Degree of case shine is purely personal preference, but the key issue is simple cleanliness to avoid scratching ones’ dies.

If a liquid cleaner is used, be SURE to dry the cases thoroughly to preclude corrosion inside. One method is to dump the wet brass into an old pillow case, then tilt it left/right so the cases re-orient themselves while shifting from corner to corner. Several repetitions, pausing at each corner until water stops draining, will remove most water. They can then be left to air-dry on a towel, or can be dried in a warm (150° F-200° F max) oven for a few minutes to speed evaporation.

Shown below are Lake City cases after cleaning with Stainless Media (STM). Note: STM Case cleaning was done by a third party, not the USAMU, which does not endorse any particular cleaning method.

NOTE: The USAMU Handloading (HL) Shop does not RE-load fired 5.56 brass. We use virgin LC brass with our chosen primer already staked in place. However, our staff has extensive personal experience reloading GI brass for competition, which will supplement the Shop’s customary steps. In handloading, as in life, there are many ways to accomplish any given task. Our suggestions are note presented as the “only way,” by any means. Time for loading/practicing is always at a premium. Readers who have more efficient, alternative methods that maintain top accuracy are invited to share them here.

3. Inspect Every Case
Once dry, inspect each case for significant deformation (i.e., someone stepped on it), damaged mouths/necks and case head/rim damage. Some rifles’ ejectors actually dig small chunks of brass out of the case head — obviously, not ideal for precision shooting. Similarly, some extractors can bend the case rims so badly that distortion is visible when spinning them in one’s fingers. These can be used for plinking, but our match brass should have straight, undamaged rims.

Dented case mouths are common, and these can easily be rounded using a conical, tapered tool, [such as a .223 expander mandrel. A dummy 7.62 or .30-06 cartridge with a FMJ spitzer can also work.] If most of your brass is of one headstamp, this is a good time to cull out any odd cases.

4. Check the Primers Before Decapping
Your clean, dry and inspected brass is now ready for full-length sizing, decapping and re-priming. Historically, primer crimps on GI brass have caused some head-scratching (and vile language) among handloaders. Our next installment will detail efficient, easy and practical methods to remove primer crimp, plus other useful handloading tips. Until next week, Good Shooting!

Accuracy Potential of Mil-Surp 5.56×45 Brass
So, how accurate can previously-fired GI surplus brass be in a good National Match AR-15? Well, here’s a data point from many years ago that might be of interest. A High Power shooter who wrote for the late Precision Shooting magazine took a Bill Wylde-built AR match rifle to a registered Benchrest match. He had no difficulty obtaining consistent 0.5-0.6 MOA accuracy at 200 yards using LC brass and a generic “practice” load that was not tuned to his rifle.

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