How to Make an Inexpensive, Portable PVC (or ABS) Target Stand
One of the easiest ways to build a portable target stand is to use PVC pipe and connectors. Utah .308 Shooter “Cheese” has created a simple yet sturdy target frame, and he’s shared his design so you can build a similar frame easily and at low cost. The components are wood furring strips, 2″-diameter PVC pipes (and connections), and a 2’x3′ sheet of cardboard. The PVC base can be glued together, or, for easier transport and storage, you can leave some or all of the connections free. “Cheese” tells us: “I didn’t glue any of it together so I could disassemble it, shove it in a bag and take it anywhere.”
“All the parts are just pushed together and not glued. That way I can break it down and carry it all in a bag. Also, if a buddy (not me!) happens to shoot the stand, I can easily replace just the damaged piece. The last 6 inches of the furring strips are wittled-down a bit so they can be pushed into the upright pipes with a little friction. The cardboard is 2 x 3 feet, and I use a staple gun to attach it to the furring strips. Then I just staple the target onto the cardboard and go at it.
Of course you can modify the dimensions as desired. I chose the black ABS pipe over white PVC simply for cost — black ABS is a little cheaper. You can also glue some or all of the parts together, it’ll just be larger for transporting. In windy conditions, the thing likes to come apart. Duct tape might work well.
For weight, I thought about filling the two end pipes with sand and gluing test caps on each of their ends. The test caps still allow the pipes to slip into the elbows.”
Add Anchors or Internal Weight for Stability
On a very windy day, a PVC stand can shake or even topple over. There are a couple solutions to this. Some people fill the PVC pipe sections with sand to add weight, or you can put short sections of Re-BAR inside the long legs. One GlockTalk forum member noted: “I built [a frame] almost identical to this. I also take four pieces of wire coathanger bent into an inverted “U” shape to anchor the frame to the ground. It is so light that wind will knock the stand over [without anchors].”
Assembly Diagram with Dimensions
The photo below shows all the components of the base, with dimensions. The overall maximum assembled dimensions are roughly 26″ wide, 41″ deep, and 66″ tall (the cardboard is 2 x 3 ft).
You can find photos of a similar home-made PVC target stand (with a slightly different rear section) on the Box of Truth website. This also employs a PVC tubing base with wood uprights. We’ve also seen all-PVC target stands, but we’ve found that it is easier to attach the cardboard to wood strips than to PVC pipe. Also, if the upper section is wood, you can fit different height targets, while using the same base.
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Tags: ABS, Pipe, plastic, Portable, PVC, Target, Target Frame
The target stand is a good one. I, myself used (2) 5’electrical pvc pieces,one on each side of a 2′ piece of blue insulation board found at construction dumpster. I attach the pipes by zip ties. I cut off two 15″ of rebar. I hammer the rebar in the ground and slide the pvc over them.Works great!!
Thanks for posting this, been thinking about making one. Nice & simple.. And cheap….
Thanks for the plans for this PVC stand. Once I had the materials together it only took 1-2 hrs to put to construct. Cost about $ 14.oo in supplies.Easy to make and to transport. We’ll try it out this weekend.
Thanks again.
Art
I’ve been making them for years. I use all PVC and buy those cheap plastic clips from dollar store to hold targets on. I don’t glue them, as well, partly because if I have a bad hit and break a piece of PVC, it’s easy to replace. I have also made them from metal conduit to hang steel gongs from for long range shooting.
You can use the same concept with threaded steel pipe. Of course it is much heavier and less effected by the wind.
EDITOR: Nat, I’ve also seen pipe used for the base, with PVC for the uprights. Some guys pour sand in the PVC base tubes to make it more steady (lead shot’s too expensive now).
I use all PVC and use a table saw with a dado blade put SLITS in the UPRIGHTS to slide the backer into. I use a 24″ or 18″ spacing — most of those coroplast campaign and real estate signs are 18″x24″ and these make excellent backing sheets.
EDITOR: Geoff — Smart tips you offer. Thanks!
… and another design can be found at:
http://www.nwtf.org/tv_magazines/images/GITG_PVC_target_stand.pdf
I made a couple of these and use wood strips for the verticals. That was a good thing because someone puts holes in ‘em from time-to-time. I did not glue the PVC and this allows accordion-folding the stand. Also it’s easy to change the cross piece so the stand can accommodate wider or narrower target boards.
If you go looking for pipe that looks like the pictures, you will have more success if you look for ABS that is used for drain, waste, and venting applications. You can see the photo says ABS 1 1/2″ drain, waste, vent. Having an easy to build target stand, that works well, is a good idea. This was a useful and informative story.
I bored the upright tee fittings out on a lathe so they slip over single piece side legs. The uprights just fold over, slide to the end and are held together with a bungee strap for transporting.
While you are in the store stroll over to the fence section and pick up two 4 or 5ft light weight fence poles .
just stick them in the ground and clip your targets or backers to them.
total cost $8 or$10 assemply time zero
Why not make all the pieces 20″ so they are interchangeable on assembly.