In a helpful NSSF video, Ryan Cleckner explains why you normally should avoid canting your rifle — rotating it clockwise or counter-clockwise. Cleckner explains that canting the rifle in one direction or another will change the point of impact: “When you rotate the rifle, not only does the [POI move] in the direction that you’re rotated, [but] it also loses some of its elevation as it rolls down.” This, Cleckner explains, can make you miss on one side or the other:
Cant to the Left — You’re going to miss low and left.
Cant to the Right — You’re going to miss low and right.
In this video, starting at the one-minute mark, Cleckner shows the effect of rifle canting when engaging a 600-yard target. A few degrees of cant (either to the left or to the right), moves the shot POI completely off the steel silhouette target. The POI change occurs mainly because you are lowering (and laterally shifting) the scope sight-line relative to the bore axis, effectively changing your zero.
David Tubb has explained: “Every 1 degree you are off on a cant, is about six inches of difference laterally at 1000 yards”.
Position Shooting with Sling — Rifle Cant Considerations
Cleckner’s discussion assumes that the scope or sights are set to hit center with the rifle level and plumb. That works for most situations when shooting prone off bipod, front mechanical rest, or front sandbag. However, many sling shooters, including David Tubb and John Whidden, do tilt or cant their rifles slightly inward because this allows a more comfortable hold with sling, or allows better eye-to-sight alignment. Holding the rifle at an angle can work — but the angle of cant must be consistent for every shot. Canting the rifle is not a sin by itself. However, after you confirm your zero on your target, the degree of cant must be the same for EVERY shot. You must maintain that exact same degree of rotation on each shot or you will experience the shot POI movement Cleckner illustrates. Consistency is the key.
John Whidden, 5-time Nat’l Long Range Champion, holds a Palma rifle. John now shoots a match rifle with an Anschutz stock which he holds more upright, but still with some counter-clockwise cant. John also installed his iron sights at an angle so that the adjustments are correct (and plumb) even with his canted hold: “While it may not be obvious in the picture, the sights on my rifle are set up so that they’re straight vertical and horizontal while I hold the rifle canted. Making sure your adjustments (scope or sights) are vertical and horizontal is a critical piece of the pie.”
Inexpensive 30mm and 1″ Scope-Mounted Bubble Levels
The best way to avoid inconsistent rifle canting is to use a bubble level fitted to rail or scope. One very affordable product is the CVLIFE Scope Bubble Level. This features a 30mm milled inside diameter with a handy hinge to simplify mounting. This unit installs easily, the level is nicely elevated, and user reviews have been very positive. You could easily pay $40.00 or more for a 30mm scope level. This costs just $16.90 on Amazon. If you have a 1″ scope tube, consider the SME dual-diameter level. This fits 30mm tubes PLUS has an insert to fit 1″ tubes. It’s $19.99 at MidwayUSA.
In April 2020, the National Rifle Association (NRA) launched NRAWomen.com, a website dedicated to the fastest-growing group of firearm owners — America’s women. This website serves the increasing number of female gun owners, huntresses, and competitive shooters. Female involvement in firearms is growing significantly. Consider these numbers: Statistica estimates that 19% of women in the USA owned firearms in 2020, while 23% of women surveyed in a 2011 Gallup Poll stated they owned a gun.
Jessie Harrison is one of the greatest female pistol shooters on the planet.
Here are three excellent Articles from the NRAWomen.com website, all worth reading. For each example, Click the Photo or direct link to read the full article on NRAWomen.com.
1. Flying with Firearms — What You Need to Know
We recommend that any gun owner, female OR male, should definitely read this article. It is one of the better discussions on the web of airline travel with firearms, covering international travel as well as domestic flights. The article notes that you should obtain U.S. Customs Form 4457 before flying overseas with a firearm.
“Flying with a gun is actually a lot easier than you’d probably expect. You need a couple of specific gear items, and you need to know the proper procedure, but it’s a relatively simple process. I’ve flown with long guns and handguns dozens of times around the country and around the world. The process is generally the same, but with some additional steps and maybe additional hassle depending on the airport [and personnel.]” READ FULL ARTICLE on NRAWomen.com.
2. Modular Safes — Smart Option for Easier Moving
The second article features a great video showing how to assemble a modular safe in under 30 minutes. This article also explains the benefits of modular gunsafes — primarily easier transport and installation.
“Modular safes have been around for a few years now and are becoming more popular. Here’s why: The safe comes delivered to you in panels, so you can bring them into your home one at a time and put it together anywhere you like. This makes it easy to carry up and down stairs, onto elevators or anywhere! Security — Is it as secure as one that comes pre-assembled? The answer is, absolutely.” READ FULL ARTICLE on NRAWomen.com.
3. Rimfire .22 LR Handguns for Self-Defense
This article looks at a wide variety of .22 LR pistols and revolvers. The author discusses the pros and cons of a rimfire defense gun, concluding that while the stopping power is limited, having some protection is better than going unarmed.
“Over the last few months we’ve seen the launch of new handguns chambered for .22 LR that sport the same looks and features as center-fire handguns designed for daily concealed carry. The models I’ve had a chance to work with so far include the compact Taurus TX22 semi-automatic pistol, the pocket-size Ruger Lite Rack LCP II, Kel-Tec’s P17 semi-automatic and the Taurus 942 8-shot snubnose revolver.” READ FULL ARTICLE on NRAWomen.com.
Do you know how gun primers are made — how the explosive elements are applied into those tiny cups? Find out by watching this video filmed at a Federal ammunition factory. It starts out with empty primer cups loaded, 1000 at a time, into trays using vibration (0:05 time-mark). While much of the process is automated, there is still a significant role played by production workers who apply a green, paste-like charging compound to the inside of hundreds of primer cups.
At the 0:17-second time-mark you can see the factory worker “charging” the primers with the priming compound. After the cups are filled, then the plate of cups “mates up with a plate of anvils” (0:40 time-mark). Then the primers are unloaded from trays and inspected.
Primer “Mysteries and Misconceptions” Article
There is an excellent article about primers on the Shooting Times website. This authoritative Shooting Times article explains the fine points of primer design and construction. The author reveals some little-known facts about primers and corrects common misconceptions. Here are some highlights:
Size Matters
Useful Trivia — even though Small Rifle and Small Pistol primer pockets share the same depth specification, Large Rifle and Large Pistol primers do not. The standard pocket for a Large Pistol primer is somewhat shallower than its Large Rifle counterpart, specifically, 0.008 to 0.009 inch less.
Magnum Primers
There are two ways to make a Magnum primer — either use more of the standard chemical mix to provide a longer-burning flame or change the mix to one with more aggressive burn characteristics. Prior to 1989, CCI used the first option in Magnum Rifle primers. After that, we switched to a mix optimized for spherical propellants that produced a 24% increase in flame temperature and a 16% boost in gas volume.
Foiled Again
Most component primers have a little disk of paper between the anvil and the priming mix. It is called “foil paper” not because it’s made of foil but because it replaces the true metal foil used to seal early percussion caps. The reason this little disk exists is strictly a manufacturing convenience. Wet primer pellets are smaller than the inside diameter of the cup when inserted and must be compacted to achieve their proper diameter and height. Without the foil paper, the wet mix would stick to the compaction pins and jam up the assembly process.
AR-platform rifles can be maintenance-intensive beasts. They need regular inspection, cleaning, and lubrication. But some AR owners make the situation worse by not regularly cleaning important small parts, or by using too MUCH oily/greasy lubricants in the wrong places. A properly maintained and lubricated AR15 can shoot hundreds of rounds (between cleanings) without a problem. If you learn where (and where not) to apply lubricant, you’ll find that your AR will run more reliably and the task of cleaning the bolt, bolt carrier, and upper receiver internals will be less of a burden.
Here we showcase videos that show how to field-strip an AR-15, inspect the key parts, clean components, and lubricate internal parts as needed. Along with these videos, we recommend you read the comprehensive AR-15 Gun Cleaning Clinic article from the Brownells website. This explains in detail important procedures that the videos might only cover in a few seconds.
If you want to keep your black rifle running smoothly and reliably, you must clean it regularly and follow the correct maintenance procedures. Here are five videos that explain how to properly disassemble and clean AR-platform rifles.
1. How To Clean Your AR-15 | Cleaning and Maintenance Tips
This is a quick 90-second starter video that may help new AR owners. Ricky Lehnhardt of OTIS Technology demonstrates the basics of cleaning and maintaining your AR-15. Lehnhardt does a good job identifying the points that need cleaning on the inside of ARs. However he works very quickly in the video. You may want to pause the video at some points. Also, Lehnhardt employs a cable for pulling patches and brushes through the barrel. Yes this is fast and easy. However, for match AR rifles, we recommend that you instead use a cleaning ROD with fitted bore guide.
2. Take-Down and Full Cleaning of AR-15 by Jerry Miculek
Here ace shooter Jerry Miculek takes down and cleans an AR-platform rifle belonging to his daughter Lena. This is a good video because Lena’s rifle was “run hard and packed up dirty” so you can see where carbon and grease build up. This 35-minute video is very thorough. Jerry is one of the nation’s top action carbine shooters, so listen carefully to his advice on cleaning and lubrication.
3. AR-15 Maintenance: Field-strip, Clean and Lubricate an AR-15
Gunsite Academy instructor and gunsmith Cory Trapp demonstrates the proper way to field-strip, clean, and lubricate an AR-15 carbine. In this 30-minute video, Trapp offers several important technical tips and hints. For example, at 11:05 Trap demonstrates how to determine if your bolt needs new gas rings. Along with cleaning procedures, this video explains how to inspect key components and how to function-test your AR before each shooting session.
4. AR-15 Dissassembly and Cleaning Guide
This video does a good job, with close-ups, showing how to remove the bolt carrier and clean the inside of the upper receiver. Then you can see how to work with various tools to clean the bolt, bolt carrier, and inside of chamber. We also recommend that you inspect the ejector recess and extractor recess. When we’ve inspected ARs that failed to cycle properly, we have often found nasty gunk (mixture of carbon, greasy lube, and brass particles) in these areas.
5. Basic AR-15 Quick and Easy Field Maintenance
In this NSSF-sponsored video, pro shooter Ryan Muller demonstrates basic, quick field maintenance of his AR-15. This would be for a quick cleaning and lubrication of the reciprocating parts. This covers rapid maintenance in the field. For full field-stripping and thorough cleaning, watch the previous videos.
Handy Mat for Cleaning AR Rifles
When working on an AR-15, it’s smart to have a pad that can absorb solvents and cushion your upper and lower. The $29.99 Real Avid Smart Mat is a good choice. This features printed take-down instructions and it has a handy parts tray on the right side. The mat rolls up for convenient storage. Click HERE to learn more.
Vital Inspections You Should Do After Disassembly
Last but not least, here are recommended inspections you should do every time you do a full field-strip and cleaning of your black rifle:
Generally you want the biggest, heaviest gunsafe you can afford. However, for many gun owners, a 1000+ pound behemoth is impractical. For those who relocate frequently for their jobs, or who live up many flights of stairs, it is more practical to have a safe that breaks down into separate pieces for transport. In our Guide to Gunsafes, we reviewed the Zanotti Safe, a quality modular safe that breaks down into smaller, lighter components. Now there is a another modular safe that competes with the Zanotti. Snapsafe’s Titan Modular Safe ships in three (3) flat boxes. Simply unpack the components and assemble the 400-lb. Titan on-site in about 30 minutes without tools.
Watch video to see how the SnapSafe Titan can be assembled without tools:
The SnapSafe™ Titan holds 12+ rifles, weighs 400 lbs. assembled, and measures 59″ H x 22″ W x 17.5″. Side panels are 9 gauge steel and the door is 3/16″ steel secured by eight 1″-diameter chrome steel locking bolts. SnapSafe claims that its patented structure can be stronger than conventional welded construction. It has a UL-listed digital lock with EMP-proof mechanical key backup. The Titan boasts fire-sealing gaskets lining the door frame. These gaskets, combined with ceramic wool blankets in the walls provide a claimed one hour of fire protection against temperatures up to 2300ºF.
SnapSafe sells its Titan 12+ long-gun capacity safe for $1969.00 delivered. There are also larger-capacity modular safes — the $2509.00 Super Titan (24 gun capacity), and the massive $3269.00 Super Titan XL Double Door (36 gun capacity). All prices include shipping to the lower 48 states. Below is an Ultimate Reloader video showing the assembly of a Titan double-door safe.
In some areas of the country (California in particular), hunters are now forbidden to use bullets that contain lead. If you need a lead-free projectile for your deer rifle, consider Nosler’s E-Tip projectile. This has plenty of penetrating power and retained energy while complying with laws requiring “unleaded” ammunition. An “expansion chamber” behind the green polymer tip helps ensure reliable expansion with 95% weight retention. The video below shows a .30 caliber, 180gr lead-free E-Tip impressively power through TWO 12-inch blocks of Ballistics Gel at 100 yards. This was fired from a .308 Winchester.
Watch 180gr eTip Penetration and Expansion in Ballistic Gelatin:
Nosler claims the E-Tip (“Expansion Tip”) bullet has advantages over other solid copper hunting bullets: “Unlike the competitor’s one-piece designs, Nosler E-Tip bullets will not blow the petals off at extreme velocities nor will the low end expansion ever be questioned, as the minimum impact velocity is set at 1800 fps for standard calibers.” One hunter, posting on Facebook, gave the E-Tip high marks: “I have had the opportunity to take a pig with a 130 gr E-Tip from my .270 and they work flawlessly. My son took two pigs with his .300 Win Mag and 165gr E-Tips and they worked flawlessly as well.”
This video illustrates the design and construction of the Nosler eTip Bullet:
This week we focus on five classic metal-framed 9mm pistols. These five world-class handguns all shoot the 9mm Luger (9x19mm) cartridge. Most have been used by military and police forces as well as used by civilians for sport-shooting and defense. This Editor has shot all five pistol types and owned three. I can recommend all of them. Metal-framed pistols typically have a lower center of gravity and weigh more than Glocks and other polymer-framed handguns. Consequently, they tend to have less muzzle flip, and less perceived recoil than polymer-framed handguns.
SIG Sauer P226
The SIG Sauer P226 is a high-quality, ultra reliable single-action/double action handgun with a proud Swiss/German heritage. It has a very ergonomic grip that fits most hands very well. Standard P226s do NOT have a manual safety, but the P226 has a decocking lever drops the hammer safely. This Editor has trained new shooters with a Sig P226 and Glock 17. For 80% of my trainees the Sig P226 pointed better due to the superior grip design. This meant that the sight picture was better, and the trainees achieved better results with the P226 vs. the Glock 17. The P226 is also a very reliable firearm. I have over 6000 rounds through my P226 with not one single jam. That’s impressive. The first video, reviewing the SIG P226, has over 1.4 million YouTube views, indicating it is very popular with pistoleros.
HK P7 Series (PSP, P7m8, P7m13)
This Editor has shot a P7m8 extensively. It is superbly accurate. With a very low bore axis, it has much less muzzle flip than most 9mm pistols. And with a fixed barrel, the slide moves straight back during cycling. The HK P7 blowback-operated semi-automatic pistol was designed and manufactured by German gun-maker Heckler & Koch (H&K) from 1978 to 2008. It is thin, superbly accurate, with a precise trigger that shames the Glock. The P7m8 features a unique gas-delayed blowback system, which uses gas from the cartridge to retard the rearward motion of the slide. This works via a barrel port and a piston inside a cylinder under the barrel. The signature feature of the P7 series is the “squeeze cocker” on the front of the grip. Squeezing the cocking lever cocks the firing pin. When the front of the grip is released, the weapon is fully de-cocked, making it safe with a round in the chamber.
Browning Hi-Power
The Browning Hi-Power is a single-action, semi-automatic handgun with a legendary heritage. This handsome all-metal pistol was based on a design by American John Moses Browning, and completed by Dieudonné Saive at Fabrique Nationale (FN) of Herstal, Belgium. J.M. Browning died in 1926, several years before the design was finalized. FN Herstal initially named the design the “High Power”, which alludes to the 13-round magazine capacity, almost twice that of other designs such as the Luger or Colt M1911. The name was later shorted to “Hi-Power”. The Browning Hi-Power has served military forces and police in many countries throughout the world. It is a very well-balanced pistol, with a nice, crisp trigger. After 82 years of continuous production, FN Herstal announced that the Hi-Power would be discontinued in 2018. However, in 2022 FN resumed Hi-Power production, so this classic lives on.
CZ 75
The CZ 75 is the flagship pistol of CZ-USA and has been a staple among 9x19mm fans for over 45 years. Originally introduced in 1975, hence the name, the CZ 75 remains viable as a defensive pistol. CZ claims the CZ 75 is “used by more governments, militaries, police, and security agencies than any other pistol in the world”. The CZ 75 is very reliable and works well for both defense and IDPA competitions. The ergonomics are good, controls are intuitive, and the trigger is very nice. Over the years, CZ has made numerous variations of the CZ 75 pistol, but the original is still an excellent handgun.
Beretta 92FS and Military M9
For Americans, the Beretta 92 series of pistols is best known as the official sidearm of the American military for 30+ years. The United States military replaced the .45 ACP M1911A1 pistol in 1985 with the Beretta 92FS, designated as the “M9″. The M9 and the civilian models 92/92FS have a distinctive, recognizable feature — the cut-away slide which exposes most of the 9mm barrel. The metal frame also has an attractive grip design. The 92FS pistols we’ve shot were accurate and reliability was good. There have been various modifications and upgrades over the years. However the M9 was replaced in 2017 by the new polymer-framed SIG Sauer P320, adopted as the military’s M17/M18 modular pistols.
This Hickok 45 video review of the Beretta 92FS has over 3.1 million views:
Here’s good news for 30 BR shooters. Paul Parosky, maker of the excellent PRP Custom Bullets, is now offering 30 BR neck-turned brass. This can save you considerable time and effort forming 30 BR cases from Lapua 6mmBR brass. And the neck-turning is superb, again representing time savings (and no tools to buy). You can order this 30 BR brass from PRPbullets.com. If you communicate with the PRP team, Paul may be able to neck-turn to your specific thickness. Paul notes: “Here are necks turned for a 0.330 neck. I’ll try my best to accommodate anyone’s neck dimensions as they wish. Just contact us through our website PRPBullets.com.”
About this Neck-Turning set-up — Paul Parosky notes: “For neck-turning I’m using an old drill press that has been re-worked. The cutter and spindle are all indicated before neck turning to ensure no runout. The RPM is around 520. The lube I use is a mixture of royal and mystery oil.”
Why the 30 BR Dominates 100/200 Benchrest for Score Competition
The 30BR, along with some wildcat variants, remains the dominant cartridge in short-range (100/200) benchrest-for-score competition. The 30BR’s .308″-diameter bullets are larger than the 6mm bullets used by the 6PPC (which rules group BR competition). The bigger 30-Cal diameter has an advantage in touching scoring rings. In addition, the 30 BR is also relatively easy to tune, and barrel life is considerably better than with smaller-caliber benchrest cartridges. For more information, see our AccurateShooter 30 BR Cartridge Guide.
Cases are Expanded, Then Neck-Turned
To produce his 30 BR brass, Parosky first uses a series of expander mandrels. Then he neck-turns with power using a converted drill press. Paul tells us: “This is done the old school way, I use three different tapered expander mandrels, then neck-turn it to the proper neck chamber, then run them up through a FL expander mandrel to ensure necks are straight. Then I clean all the cases.”
Paul Parosky Can Also Neck-Turn 6PPC Brass
Paul Parosky also expands and neck-turns 6PPC cases that are made from parent Lapua .220 Russian cartridge brass. Here, illustrating his 6PPC neck-turning operation, is a Paul Parosky post on the USA Benchrest & Extreme Precision Shooters Facebook page.
You can spend thousands on a rifle, but that expensive hardware won’t perform at its best if you have poor trigger technique. One key element of precision shooting is trigger control. Our friend Kirsten Joy Weiss has produced a good video that shows how to refine your trigger technique for better accuracy. In this video, Kirsten talks about the actual placement of a shooter’s index finger on the trigger. It is important to have the finger positioned optimally. Otherwise you can pull the shot slightly left or slightly right.
Kirsten tells us: “Finger placement on the trigger might not seem like a big deal, but it actually is. The reason for this is because, depending on where your index finger is placed on the trigger, [this] translates to different muscle interactions with the gun.” Watch this video to see Kirsten demonstrate proper finger placement (and explain problems caused by improper finger positioning).
When you pull the trigger, you only want to engage the last section of your finger, in order to avoid unwanted muscle engagement and to achieve a smooth shot. Remember there is a “sweet spot” between the crease (first joint) and the tip of the finger. If you position the trigger in that “sweet spot”, you should see an increase in your accuracy. Don’t make the mistake of putting the trigger in the crease of your finger, as shown below.
Effects of Incorrect Finger Placements
You want to place the trigger shoe between the end of your finger and the first joint. If you place the trigger on the very tip of you finger you’ll tend to push the rear of the rifle to the left when engaging the trigger, causing shots to go right (for a right-handed shooter). On the other hand, if you put the trigger in the crease (first joint), you’ll tend to bring the rear of the rifle to the right, causing shots to fall left. This is illustrated below for a right-handed shooter.
For hunters in a tree stand, SFC McPhail recommends a position with your weakside leg pulled up and firmly braced on the front rail of the treestand. You can then rest your support arm on your leg. This provides a rock-solid position when shooting from a stand.
Team USA Olympian and ISSF World Cup Winner SFC Michael McPhail is one of the world’s best smallbore rifle shooters. He is also an avid hunter, who enjoys harvesting game with centerfire rifles. In a USAMU video, McPhail shows how competition shooting positions can be adapted for hunters. McPhail shows how well-established positions can provide a more stable platform for hunters in the field. That can help ensure a successful hunt. McPhail demonstrates three positions: kneeling, supported prone, and sitting in a tree-stand.
Watch SFC McPhail Demonstrate Positions for Hunters (Good Video):
McPhail first demonstrates the kneeling position. Michael notes: “I like kneeling. It’s a little bit of an under-utilized position, but it’s almost as stable as prone. It allows you get up off the ground a little bit higher to [compensate for] vegetation. For kneeling start by taking your non-dominant foot and put that towards the target, while at the same time dropping down to a knee on the dominant leg. At the same time … wrap the sling around wrist and fore-arm, lean slightly into the target and take the shot.”
McPhail shows a nice “field expedient” use of your backpack. He shows how the basic prone position can be adapted, using the pack as a front rifle support. McPhail recommends pulling your dominant (strongside) leg forward, bent at the knee. According to Michael, this takes pressure off the abdomen, helps minimizes heart beat effects, and helps with breathing.
Generally you want the biggest, heaviest gunsafe you can afford. However, for many gun owners, a 1000+ pound behemoth is impractical. For those who relocate frequently for their jobs, or who live up many flights of stairs, it is more practical to have a safe that breaks down into separate pieces for transport. In our 
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