June 24th, 2007

CP Convertible ON/OFF Muzzle Brake

CP convertible muzzle brake stainlessWe love the recoil reduction we get from muzzle brakes, but we don’t like the added noise and blast. And we’d rather not blow dust and dirt at our neighbors on the firing line. Chris Spera (Cowpuncher) of CP Muzzlebrakes has the answer to that–a brake that can be “turned off” with a simple twist of the brake housing. When the ports on the sleeve are aligned with the ports on inner section tube it works like any other muzzle brake. When the outer sleeve is turned 36°, this blocks the ports on the tube. That shuts off the brake, dramatically reducing the noise/blast it produces. CP Muzzlebrakes offers an unique and very precisely-machined product. Each brake is custom-fitted to the rifle, and Chris builds both straight and tapered versions, for $180.00 (blued or black finish). Stainless brakes, either straight or tapered, are $220.00.

Jody Calhoun of SavageShooters.com tested one of the brakes, and gave it high marks: “The effect it had on recoil was very noticeable. [My 30-06] performed very much like a medium load .308. Needless to say, I was impressed. I also liked the way it has the detent ball that allows you to go from “ON” to “OFF” in a split second without even looking. The brake stayed in position until I moved it. Operation is smooth with no slack between parts. It does have that typical muzzle brake flash and noise. Fortunately, its ports are angled in a much better fashion than most other brakes, making it less offensive[.]”

CPmuzzlebrakes.com muzzle brake

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June 24th, 2007

Precise Case Trimming without a Micrometer

Do you have a Wilson case trimmer but can’t afford the $84.00 to add the handy Micrometer upgrade (Sinclair Int’l item 05-4500)? Well Boyd Allen has come up with a clever use of a standard set of calipers that lets you set the cut length precisely within .001″. Just open the jaws of your caliper and put one jaw on the outboard end of the ring (with set screw) that holds the threaded length-adjusting rod. Set the other caliper jaw on the flat face at the end of the threaded rod that contacts the case rim. If you have a sample case set to the correct cut length, use that to set the position of the threaded rod. Then use your calipers to measure that length. This way you can repeat the cut length each time, or adjust the trimmed case precisely in .001″ increments.

If you change from one cartridge to another, just use your calipers to re-set the desired cut length. Alternatively, ReedG notes you can use the inside caliper jaws and measure directly from the end of the threaded rod to the cutter face. That’s a bit trickier, but it measures actual trim length.

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